I got the OK to start cutting a 10K/bf White pine job. What are you using for cutting pine, I've got a bunch of Munks 7/8 pitch but not sure if that will work. The logs will be turned into 4x6s for building hunting cabins, I'll be pulling a few 1Xs of the outside.
Thanks,
Flip
flip,
I use the Woodmizer 10 deg blades. Works for me but I don't cut a lot of pine.
Ron
I use Monkeys for everything, pine, spruce, oak, aspen...............
1-1/4"x0,039". 1" pitch. 10*
Works good 2-4 hrs after sharpening. I don´t force more than 7-10 kP. or (in wide cuts) to the 18 HP engine slows down.
After 4-7 shapenings (I never deal with seting) they use to break.
Swede.
Lenox, Matrix blades, 13 degree. I beleive they are a bimetal blade, usually only last about 1 sharpening, but when they are new they will cut probably about 4 times what a Woodmizer, Simmonds Red Streak or a Lenox Woodmaster C will out of the box. Has a good feed rate too.
Only thing hard about Pine is the knots. ANY sharp blade should cut Pine. We use Munks for everything, hard or softer. 7/8 pitch X .042. Set at .022 and keep the blade clean of pitch. THAT is where the trouble lies with Pine.
Sounds like a nice whack of logs. ;D :D
My blade choice is circular :) Oops, not what you were asking ;D
Captain
Flip
I saw a lot of white pine and use Woodmizer 7/8 10° blades with good results. Their 7/8 9° blade will do well in white pine also but will not do well in red pine or spruce.
In either case slow down for the large knots and the unusual grain at the butt swell. The knots can cause the band to dip or rise and the butt swell takes more power to saw the uneven grain.
As said above use enough lube to keep the blade clean. A sharp blade is also important for the slab cuts or the teeth can load up from not cutting the inner bark layer clean. This will cause the blade to rise in the cut.
Once you've sawn a few logs you'll find white pine easy to saw most of the time but you'll have the occasional log that will be difficult.
Bill