I was wondering if anybody had used the Norwood TimberTool (Tree felling jack)?
Norwood TimberTool (http://www.norwoodindustries.com/product.aspx?prodID=1037&cID=1005)
Have not used it, but at 36 pounds, I think I will instead just carry an extra wedge.
I can see some advantage to pushing the tree high up but can also visualize and remember the trees that start their fall on their own, and 'seeing' the Jack falling down on me or the chainsaw when it is free.
I'd be curious how handy others think they are that have used them or felt a need to use them.
From the website
> pushes the tree through the fall-line that you've chosen
If you have notched it, I would think a wedge does the same thing.
I can see it's use in a plantation type forest with small DBH trees such as pine that are not too bushy. I do not think it would be very effective or safe with 18+ DBH trees or ones over 65 feet. Plus, who wants to carry around a 40 pound jack along with a 40 pounds worth of saw, wedges, and sledge.
I certainly would not rely just on that jack for keeping the kerf open and the tree level and my greatest concern would be where and what the jack would hit in case of a barberchair or a tree that jumped back over the stump. I just would not want to be holding the handle jacking it while the tree tipped.
SO ... I think in a lot clearing or a small DBH production enviroment, where your truck and tools are very close, it probably could be the cat's meow if you did not have to wedge everything and the trees were straight.
SO ... If you are dropping 18 DBH trees, trees over 65 ft, or big bushy trees I would skip it.
Looks ok for the home owner or the firewood cutter who occaisionally has to knock down a snag and isn't sure of the way it leans. Actually would be alot safer for snags, you hit a wedge too hard in a snag you run the risk of having the top come out on top of you. But as for an everyday falling tool, no thanks, proper wedging can move a lot of wood, just need a bigger axe sometimes.
Mark
I think one of those would work real well together with a wedge. I get sick of pounding wedges, I was thinking of building something like one of those with a hydrualic jack. Cut your notch, get a wedge in your backcut, and then jack it over. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but whenever I try to get a tree to fall against the lean with wedges I end up mushrooming them or having them spit out. Seemed to me there must be a better way.
we have a couple, that were built from used ford bumper jacks 8), they are a lil' heavy, but if you leave it near where your working, it's not too bad.
they have a set of wedges beat silly, as long as you can get the base on a root, or some solid ground, you can push over most anything you cut.... we keep ours on the skidder, and if dad's hauling, he'll toss it off for me when he heads out.
AAA+ from me, saves your back, that's for sure. and it works on 60'er's without a problem
> I end up mushrooming them or having them spit out
The hard head wedges from Bailey's work great. Basically a plastic wedge with a piece of steel on the back end to wack. I have not had one spit out yet and they lift great. The 12" ones give you at least 1" of lift. I have two of every size.
On the smaller wedges, I buy them at my local saw shop. They have a dimpled side that looks like a cheese grater, they hold well and are good for side wedging. I -think- they are called "timber kings".
There are many ways to fall timber against the lean. I do not want to get too specific about that as everyone has their own "comfort" level falling trees. And running a chainsaw. If you're really interested, spend some time talking and working with a good faller. They'll show you tricks you never dreamed of seeing. The falling business is too dangerous by its nature to give "a brief how to do it" via the Internet - the pro's all learned it and earned it the hard way. Experience. But, back to the original post - I sure wouldn't have enjoyed packing that thing around for the 30 plus years I ran saw. But, in certain applications it might be useful to some folks - yard trees etc. Also, use good wedges - cheap wedges are junk and dangerous. My buddies and I always used the Double Taper Wedges, made in the USA. They were the best.
Maybe I need to get some better quility wedges. I think these ones were Oregon, got em at the local saw shop. I've looked at those steel capped ones in the bailey's catalog and wondered how they would work, I might have to try some.
What I do is start with the cheap 5" ones and once the tree is level or the wedges are in there good, I start driving the hard head wedges in there. Main reason is to avoid damaging the good wedges with the chainsaw because as soon as I get my saw 2-3" into the tree I want wedges and depending on the tree, side wedges too. Plus, the hard heads have a long gradual taper and are meant for felling and not keeping a kerf open, imo. Once the hard heads are driven between the cheap plastic ones, the cheap ones fall out or I remove them so I don't hit them with the chain saw.
One tool on that site you might want to check out is the Skidmate log arch with the 24" grapple. It has been on my "to buy" list for a while, I just not have found a reasonable priced used 6x6 ATV yet.
Built my own with two pieces of square tubing, one inside the other and a 3 ton hydraulic jack. It has saved me on several occasions. Weight though, is a problem. While not overly heavy, I would not want to carry it very far. Access to a welder and some scrap metal and you can make your own for under twenty dollars. Well worth it.
That's why you should always have a buddy with ya......So he can lug that thing around :D :D :D
And ya always need somebody ta call 911..... hurt_smiley hurt_smiley hurt_smiley
And then there's this...
http://youtu.be/zsMZr2z9nfs (http://youtu.be/zsMZr2z9nfs)