The Forestry Forum

just curios as to what inserted teeth anybody on here running circular saws are running and why? i have a foley belsaw 52 inch pto mill cutting syp and cypress mainly and its time for new teeth. wondering what everyone else is using and why you prefer it also would appreciate any recomendations thanks    ::)      Steve

I use Simonds 9/32 f pattern Standards. All I use. Simply put, I prefer them because they work the best for me.

JB, I know there are different size shanks and teeth. Are they interchangable with most saw blades or, are the blades made for certain size shanks and teeth?? I been trying to remember the sizes I used. Can picture the boxes, just can't see the print. Might need one of the fizzic people to help me ??? ::)

In My case, I believe that the Simonds shanks and teeth are for the Mobile Mill units.  I am sure that they would fit for other such saw sizes as I use on my two mills. :P

Check out the B.H. Payne link
http://www.paynesaws.com

 I use Simonds. The number on the box is B-F-7-5/16 S.A. Someone told me years ago to use them and I always have. What I would like to know is what horse power are you using. I also run a 52" blade. I have got to get more horses.
                                                         Richard

Thanks, Mitch. There is an excellent link within that one, that gives a good primer on maintaining and troubleshooting circle saws. It is by Jeff Lesak(sp), a ForestryForum member whom DonT hardly never post here no more. :(  It would be a good tidbit to put in the links or knowledge base. :P

I normally run the Simonds standards on the head saw,  I do that due to all the trash I've been hitting.  I have also used longs, and I believe they are the same price.  You'll get a few more filings from longs, and a little more meat for swaging.

On the edgers I'm running IKS chrome longs.  IKS makes a little thinner chrome, and they can be swaged, if needed.  IKS can be hand filed, after you get your initial layer of chrome off.  You'll need some sort of grinder or diamonad file for that.  They are rough on hand files.

I used to use the chrome on the headsaw.  They would last a little longer, but are a little too hard when you hit metal or rocks.  The corners will break off, and they are hard to repair.  They are also more expensive, and I don't think they are worth the added expense.

I have tried Hoe and IKS regular teeth, but prefer the Simonds   They seem to stay sharper laonger.  I also hate standall teeth.  I run winter shanks and summer bits all year long, as do most mills in the area.  Must have something to do witht the local saw doc. :)

Saw pattern may limit what brand you can buy.  I once had a Disston #33 and could never find teeth.  Most patterns are B, F, D and 2 1/2.  You will find the pattern letter on your shank.

I usually saw with #3 bits, usually 9/32 Simonds long and sometimes standall...ocassionally  saw with  2 1/2 bits. Everyone says that #3 is fading from the sawmill scene, but all bits and shanks are still available.

Does anyone use carbide bits??? I bought a box of 100 IKS, but have been reluctant to saw with them because of hitting metal.
B.H. Payne bought out American bits a while back and had some good deals on those.

This is an interesting conversation and I am enjoying it but not understanding it.  I know there are different tooth configurations because we in the bandsaw field deal with them too.  I am not familiar with the terminologies y'all use to describe your teeth.  Standall, summer, winter, numbers, letters etc.  I understand "set" and "swaged..swedged (?)"

When y'all get to a stopping place here would someone write a description of circle mill teeth for me?   :) :P

I'll probably mess this up. As I remember, an inserted tooth has a nice smooth transition from the base of the tooth to the gullet. Picture a quarter moon shape, sorta. ??  A standoff has a shoulder instead of the smooth transition, and is a little harder? Takes more wear from the sawdust. A summer tooth is a little softer than a winter tooth, that is used more for sawing frozen logs. There are Carbide teeth, but, as was stated, they take a beating from tramp metal, and are tough to dress up.

  I personally used a flat hand file on my saw. There are clamp-on types, where you turn a little crank and rotate a set of file type pieces that are brazed to a flat wheel that strikes the tooth face. There are also power sharpeners.

  I have seen guys "swage" the inserted teeth. I was instructed to never do that, as it would stretch yer shanks and also could stretch yer saw sockets. I know you guys do this, but, the guys I observed, used a 2 pound hammer to swage with. My teeth lasted as long as the swagers because I filed a little at a time, more often. Of course, I was VERY lucky and only hit metal a few times. Did saw down the face of a white insulator once ???

  Ok guys, beat me up !! :D :D

Woodhaven,

If you switch to 9/32 you will need a little less power to saw.  We use 5/16 carbide on our scragg mill because we can't put lead in the saws.  I'd get 11/32 carbide if they made such a thing.  I think they do in chrome.  We use carbide because we saw a lot of dirty slabs as well as small top logs and limbs.  We know there isn't metal in the logs and the slabs come off of the bandmill and any metal would have been found.

Tom,

The different sizes and styles of teeth have to do with log size and density,  blade diameter and gage,  number of teeth in the saw,  speed of sawing,  and if the wood is frozen or not.  Probably a lot of other things I donT know about.  Most of the differences are to do the most efficient job of removing sawdust from the cut under those different circumstances.  the teeth (or bits) are held in the saw with a shank.  The saw is cut for a certain tooth style and shank.  Within those stylles you can get the variations of length and width of bits and bits for frozen wood which have a little different shape of gullet.

It's the same as width, gage, set, profile, and material in bands-------then you get into whatt brand is best. ::)

Noble

I use Simonds bits, Pacific Hoe no longer makes bits and shanks as of about 1997, the mobile dimension saws are 3 pattern, I try to run the standard kerfs 5/16" for the 8 ga. saws and 1/4" for the 10 ga. saws.  I have used the stellite inlaid bits mainly because they stay sharper longer and if you hit rocks and small nails you usally only knock off a corner or two,  where carbide will shatter.  The soft or standard teeth just don't hold up very long (they do work ok if you hit alot of metal and have to sharpen every hour).  But overall i just don't feel its worth the extra sharpening time.  

I'll dig up some more facts at work tomorrow, what ever you are using keep them sharp and you'll be alot happier, I was touching up some bit this evening, it really is the key to sawing straight and clean lumber.

john 8)

Tom, go back up to Mitch's post and click on the "Payne" link. Look near the top of the page, on the right, and there is a link to a circular saw maintenance page. This will tell you far more than you ever wanted to know, if you don't have one of these monsters.  There's a lot more to it than meets the eye. :o

Tom

You made me go to the research library, since I couldn't give a reliable answer off the top of my head.   :D

There are 2 types of saw and shank configurations on a circle saw.  One is called the single circle and the other is called a double circle.  It refers how the shank and tooth fit in the saw.  Single circle are designated by numbers and double circle are designated by letters. Single circles are recommended for softwoods and soft hardwoods.  Double circles are recommended for hardwoods.

The smaller numbers are used if you are running smaller logs.  These patterns are 2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2, and 4 1/2.  On letters, you have F, B & D.  These are the ones common today.  

On single circles, the shank and tooth fit in one single circle.  On a double circle, the shank fits in one circle, and the second circle holds the tooth behind the shank

Shanks are made from spring steel and they hold the shank and tooth in place.  Summer shanks and summer teeth will form a round gullet.  That works good for many cutting situations.

But, in winter, you need to slow the sawdust down in the gullet so it doesn't spill out over the sides.  A winter shank has a bulge where the shank meets the tooth.  This disrupts the round gullet and causes the sawdust to swirl in the gullet (so I'm told).

Standall bits do the same thing, but they have the bulge in the tooth.  When standalls are coupled with winter shanks, you then have a summer shank/tooth configuration with a much smaller gullet capacity, and defeats the purpose of using either the bits or shanks.

The letters and numbers also refer to the size of the shank.  Jeff uses an F style tooth, and has 50 teeth.  I use a B pattern with 46 teeth.  I have 1 1/2 times the gullet size in the B pattern than the F.  It helps me feed a little faster.  I also run bigger logs, and you need the added gullet capacity.

We had a discussion a few years ago about the term swage and the spelling.  Like Deadheader, I rarely swage, except to repair teeth.  I also hand file, and can put a little lead into the teeth if it is needed.  

We put no set in the circle saws.  Our set is basically the width of the saw tooth.  They are "V" shaped.  That gives the needed clearance to prevent rubbing of the saw.

Lead is where the front of the saw is a little more into the log then the back of the saw.  This prevents the eye from heating up, by the log running past it.  The eye of circle saws are thicker than the rim.  

I bought a disk of several sawmill books over at ebay a couple of months ago.  I believe I paid $6.  Its called the Sawmill Handbook Collection and contains Circular Sawmills & Their Efficient Operation; Uses for Sawdust, Shavings and Waste Chips; Electic Moisture Meters for Wood; Dry Kiln Operator's Manual; Drying Hardwood Lumber; and Air Drying of Lumber.  These are all older USFS Research Books.  Very worthwhile and useful for the money invested.

Yee Hi-i-iii!  I knew I'd get a bit more of an understanding if I asked.  I'll enjoy this thread a little more now.  Don't you guys stop talking just 'cause I interrupted. :D

Be sure to do me a favor and drop a little descriptive knowledge now and again so I can keep up.  I'm going to go back over in the corner and sit down now.   Thanks. ;D :P

wow thanks alot sounds like simonds teeth hands down. so far i have tommorrow off so i need to go see what style teeth i have in it and make some phone calls really appreciate all the quick responsces though  :o

Simonds have always had the best quality. Back when we were buying hoes in the old green box you never knew it the tooth would be tight or loose or even fit. Poor, poor quality. Lately I have been having a slight problem with the simonds. I get a 5/16 tooth mixed in the box on occasion. That sucks! I don't have a side clearance guage or spider guage and with my eyes its a pain for me to find which tooth is scraping up my lumber!

Yeah Jeff........sigh........... that happens when you pass 40.   I just hope that I'm in as good a shape as you when I'm your age. :D

oops.....back to my corner. :-[ ::)

Jeff,

Do you suppose it would show up on the offending tooth if you touched it with a lumber crayon-----carefully of course?

Noble

I'm not sure how you could carefully touch it. 'spain yerself. :)

They make some sort of guage you just run around the saw to check tooth width. I think a spider guage ron calls it. He should buy me one for my birthday, or in honor of whom evers birthday is coming up next!

Ron can you take a pic of yours?

Spider gauge

Top view

(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/spider2.jpg)

Side view

(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/spider1.jpg)

Another way I've used to find the offending tooth is to take a flat file and lay across 3 teeth corners.  When you get a high one in the center, it will rock.  Then, side dress to make it even with the others.  

For me, most times it is a bent socket tip.  I'll usually mark the shoulder with the file, so I can come back to it in the future.  I've also tried to bend them straight, with limited success.

So, how many shopping days until your birthday?   :D

3
I like my gifts months in advance. ;D

I doubt my experience is great enough to give much help on this but I'll pass on what I've done and why. I'm underpowered, 46" blade, pto drive. The saw doc said to use standall bits to help prevent spillage and heating. Like Ron said he advised not to run winter shanks and standalls...so I think its 2 different approaches to keeping the cut clear, one or the other. I run BF 8/9 9/32 Simonds Standall. Ran IKS blue tips...blue streaks something like that, but these do seem to work better. The doc also used a straightening thing on some of my sockets after he pounded on the plate. I use the crank type Andrus file every few times and have been hand filing in between, sure is faster.
Don't let em fool ya Jeff, the older the grape, the sweeter the wine.
Course sometimes you just get raisins :-/

Jeff,

What I meant by touching carefully with a lumber crayon was to very lightly touch the side of the saw with the crayon so that only a tooth or teeth that was sticking out farther than the others would pick up the color.  I'm not sure that would work.  What I meant by carefully was don't use a marker that's worn down to a stub-------'borrow' the lumber grader's 3' long crayon holder and then have Earl hold it to the saw :D

Ron's gage or file procedure sounds like a better deal.  Check both sides to see if it's a wider bit or a problem with the saw.

Noble

I'm like Ron, I have never had luck with standalls. I have tried putting them in every other tooth, and other configs but as Ron said, the best bet are shanks (holders) in good to new condition and sharp straight teeth in a well tuned saw. :)

WHAT KIND OF HORSEPOWER DO YOU USE FOR A 52 INCH BLADE AND WHAT KIND OF WOOD ARE YOU USING IT ON, REALLY CURIOUS ! THANKS !

 :-[ actually i finally found that elusive tape measure and found my blade shrank 4 inches. im using a bellsaw pto mill.   jd 55 hp at pto seems to do fine but it sure likes the fuel so i hooked it up to a 45 hp massey fergusen with a perkins engine. seemed to bog it down some with some.it wasa good old sappy pine pretty big log though and very inexperianced here. may be my feed rate or many other factors maybe wrong teeth, holders not sure yet  im still waiting to order my teeth if i can ever find the time from doing all my tree work. most of what ive cut so far is cypress, pine,cedar laurel and one live oak, talk about some hard stuff

CC, how do I get to your place from Melbourne? I might take a day and see if I could get you lined out. It's been a LOOOONG time since I pulled a stick?? ;D

HELLO CROSSCUT ! say could you tell a bit more about what r.p.m. your blade is hammered for and do you have a hydraulic feed for the carriage or is it belt drive , I had my old blades hammered to 400+ r.p.m. just because i didnt want to keep my old tractor screaming all day, sounds like youre having a good time running your mill. Do you have any kind of track cleaners in front of your carriage wheels to keep the sawdust off the track. love to hear more about any tricks of the trade ok. I have read alot but am needing to just go and cut a log when springtime comes .

 :-[ hey fla, and uncle buck. dont know how i missed your posts till now. i live in kissimmee about four miles from disney you ever in this area send me an email and i will give you directions and a phone number got my new teeth ordered should be in by monday tree service work is keeping me so busy sure takes out of sawmilling time  :'( im just guessing but blade is supposed to be hammered for 600 rpm.track cleaner im using is very simple i just took a piece of thick rubber mat like a mudflap on a truck notched it and one bolt to the carriage does super no squeeks either lol cutting cypress or cedar i have no trouble. cuts straight  my trouble seems to be with the pine and oak. teeth salesman said try lubricating it so guess that my next project 8)

I've never heard of needing lubrication on a circle saw.  I have seen a Canadian operation that had a garden hose putting water onto a headsaw, but that was due to excess heat.  Water is not the solution.

What is it that your saw is doing that makes oak or pine difficult?  Heat, pushing or pulling?

hi crosscut, hey i been asking so many questions about circular mills and have a few questions posted so i been busy listening to everyones good secrets so now i am up to my last few questions on the carriage stuff, got my track cleaners figured out and going to do like Jeff and put the sliding woodblocks in front and back of each wheel, like the mud flap idea too,   Now I know that it doesnt matter which way the log goes on the carriage and am going to put the butt to the rear but i asked about that tonight on my topic of insert tooth sawmill stuff, just wondering how everyone blocks out the tapered end on the first cut, use a woodblock or something maybe.  Its minus 50 below windchill here in minnesota tonight and Florida sounds like the place to be tonight, sounds like you a busy man ! this forum sure is something great isnt it ! :P   I got 4 headblocks on my old circle mill, been trying to read every topic on the forum but am only about 3/4ths tha way through

okay sure is a lot of differant way to do things i guess what im hearing is butt end first if possible. :-/ okay what gives here. maybe im so far south thr rules are differant or maybe the tourist bureau was right and there are no danG rules here lol

UNCLEBUCK
When I last ran my circle saw mill. I kept a short piece of 1x6 and 2x6 handy to block out the small end of the log.  I'd set these blocks on end behind the log and pull the headblock snug up agains them and then dog the log.  I never had one fall out that I remember.  They usually were pretty tight by the time I had the log set for sawing.

I have a button I push. One for each headblock, then I have another button that I push labled return to normal. ;D

No tapers?  You might want to see if you can steal some off of an old Frick.  I think they are pretty close to the ones I had on the Fahrquahr.  There should be holes already there on the headblocks.

I've never ran a mill without tapers.  Ireland mills had the neatest setup for a handmill.  They had brakes for each headblock.  You held the brake and the advanced your free headblocks.  Unlimited taper.  When you hit the receder, they all came back to normal.

The block of wood should work and is a lot more low tech and cost effective.

ok ! will do the 1x6,2x6 thing for this year but if the butt end is to the rear of the carriage and the top end has say a 2x6 behind it snug and i slam the dogs down ,what if the log is a bit crooked and headblock 2 and 3 have a nice gap but headblock 1 and 4 are snug, can i go with that for the slab cut or do gaps between log and headblocks need blocking behind them, also should the curve of the log if there is one be towards the sawyer so atleast the front and back headblock will really always be snug, its hard to imagine a 20 inch white oak 12 to 16 foot long needing more than 2 dogs to hold it but like i say i have not really cut my first log yet, thanks everybody, going to be fun reading back at all my questions a year from now, dont know who else to ask,

Crooked logs are big pain in the butt.  Instead of putting the bow out, try putting the bow up.  Then you should be able to catch all the dogs.

If you have to miss a few dogs, I'd rather do it when I have a flat down on the headblocks.

If you want to saw with just a front and read dog, that's fine.  But, the log is going to spring on you.  You will be getting boards that are heavy in the middle and cants that are thin in the middle.  It will also cause the log to rub on your saw, causing heat.  Then you'll be trying to figure out whether its the log or the saw.

I have a 4 headblock carriage, and I use every available dog.  You will produce better quality lumber.

There is one of the differences in sawing on a circle mill and a band mill.  On a band mill, rubbing on the blade is less of a problem, although one to consider.  I may take my first cut from the side of the log but aim to get the majority from the hump or belly. It requires turning the log frequently but provides boards that bow rather than crook and generally you find that you are sawing to the heart check.

Our logs lay on the deck and are dogged against the movement of the blade where y'all use your dogs to hold the log up and the blade is cutting against the stability of the carriage.  It's enough to mess a fellows mind up. :D

My aim is always not to have crooked logs in the first place, but the loggers don't see it that way.  There is too much waste and they are difficult to handle, even on an automatic mill.

I try to take most of my lumber from the belly, not the hump.  The grade holds out way better in the belly than the hump..

UncleBuck:
Even my old pre WWII "drop dog" Vance mill has taper attachments. I would strongly recommend your adding them to your mill.
As for crooked log placement I always turn the log with the bow up and have it in contact with all three head blocks. If it is a really crooked log take a shallow cut and then rotate the log ninety degrees so that the "flat" is on the base of the head blocks. The thing you never ever want to happen is for the log to roll (become free of the dogs) while sawing...great pain and suffering will result!!
Good luck. Looking forward to your posting the images from your first saw log.

thanks for the feedback here to ! going to watch the auctions this year and pick up a few tapers, should be easy to find in central minnesota ! I am gonna saw me some logs now ! yippeee !

I was wondering how much you guys would pay for these.  What kind of tools are these?  It looks like over 200 teeth and there are three or four different kinds. 
Sawmill folder on the bottom thanks a bunch. 
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/goober077/my_photos

The picture of the bunch without a box looks to me like they are history, so what would I pay? Nothing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7527161128 
Thanks for the info jeff should people mention the forum when ordering parts from md?

bob

You can, and it is appreciated, but wont do any good. One of our good members, Sawmill John, used to work for that company, right up there near the top. He tried his DanGdest to get MD to come on board with the forum, and they simply won't have any of it.  Sawmill john has went on to bigger and better things then MD, but he is still here if you need a question answered about your MD. I would lean his way first, he knows everything!  :D :) If your looking to order teeth, one of the members here can tell you what style and you could always order from Menominee saw. THey carry inserts.

remember dad talkin about a guywho got a 48 inch carbide tooth blade from dad for a mill that was bein run off his tractor pto  told dad he new all bout millin didnt need no advice  :-X :-X :-X :-X

guy forgot to mention it wasn't a 540 rpm pto (i think the other , rarer one is 1020 rpm) :o :o :o
james

Glad this one came around again-knew I needed to learn more 'bout teeth.
been thinking it was about time to order up some more teeth/shanks and wondering about the options.
Never occured to me to look left ::) ::)
I miss my mind.......

I was looking before just didnt know if they sold the teeth.  Do you happen to know if they sell the tool to take the teeth out?  I looked everywhere in all the cans ect when buying my mill to no prevail nice menominee saw has a free number Toll Free 1-800-582-0470 i dont think md has that option on there site.
bob

If you would like I can get you the part number of the teeth that I buy from Menominee Saw for my MD. I quit buying teeth from MD because Menominee saw is cheaper and I like dealing with them a little better.
You can buy the shank tool to remove the teeth from MD- I don't know how much it costs.

Jeff I thought Simonds was the only company that was left to make inserted  teeth for saws. I was buying IKS but they are all done. Does menominee make teeth for head saws or just resell another brand?.

They simply are resellers for Simonds.

My teeth are getting to the point of being changed. I have read in the past that replacing every other tooth will cut my horse power needed way down. Is this true, it makes sense? Im almost ready to try my new motor which is 3 times more horse power than the old 126 hp. Just thought I would experiment along the way.

If you blank out every other tooth it can cut the H.P. needed but it also will drop your feed rate dramatically. Replacing only half of your dull teeth will only decrease the horsepower needed versus not replacing any.  Personally, I can't imagine trying to saw with anything other then saw teeth in optimum condition, and what I mean by that is, making the ones your are using the best that they can be.

Jeff"
So you are saying don't waste my time? Use my old teeth a little longer until I get the new motor finished and then replace all the teeth when I change over to the new motor?

Richard, if I get a vote here, I'd like to see you go ahead and play around with it a bit, just to gain the knowledge. :P  You could time it through a given cut just like it is, then pop out half the teeth and time it again.  Then put in half of the new teeth, time it, then a full set of new ones and time it once more.  Then you would see, and hopefully report back, just what you found to be the optimum setup.

I can't see any advantage to waiting for the new engine if your teeth need replacing now.

DanG, that's a DanG good idea!

Oakie,

I'd sure like the Part # for the MD teeth through Menominee if you have it handy.

I requested info on shanks and bits from Menominee, but sure wouldn't mind knowing the numbers too!

More info is better (most times) ;)

Anybody know what brand MD sells- the ones I bought came in a "plain brown wrapper". They work fine- just don't cut clamp handles well at all. ::) Mental note to self- push down clamp handle on long log when sawing one long, one short log on deck at same time. :-[

Are you guys refering to type B inserts?
They are all the same weather in a big saw, edger..whatever.....the difference is i nwhat type of teeth you get...........standall, carbide, chrome................know what I mean?


(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10677/tooth%20styles.jpg)

Woodhaven..

I have plenty of teeth to replace mine, but use the older set every other.........As you described Richard.
An old sawyer got me onto this years ago...Im sawing Almost all hardwoods, and It has worked well for me so far.

the worn teeth work well to remove the dust while the new ones cut like heck............. 
BUT I am just a backwoods sawyer...;) :)

A worn tooth is doing more then removing dust. Its trying to cut. By using them you sacrafice somewhere in the equation. Either in speed of cut, or worse, the quality. Most of the time I had my saw cutting as smooth as most bandmills I have seen. The secret to that is tooth care. Making sure each one is the same as the next.

If the sacrafice is something you as the sawyer are cool with, then hey, great. With me, anything but flat out was not an option. Buzz, I'm not trying to put down a "backwoods sawyer' as you indiacte. They does what they gotta do.

Oakie,
There is a few threads on hp to each tooth found when I was looking.  Mobile dimension teeth. I believe the change out tool is around 13.50 from mobile I will probably just make my own.  After viewing the free price lists and video they sent me in the mail.  I can make/repair about anything except the grooved gears that go up and down the track over a 10ft track is $1050. Cheaper to build another and part out the old I think.  The 30 feet of track I acquired logs where rolled into it by kids working for the guy a few yrs back and bent up to 3/4 of an inch along with a few other things.   For what I bought the mill and I think it was a good buy.  I have the price lists I could send you. Sure would be nice for part numbers to Menominee saw.  Also are all mobile dimension teeth the same for the blades? 
Bob

Karl-I know what you mean! I have cut my DanG log clamps more then once.

The part number I was refering to is really just a Simonds number. The teeth are steel not stelite like what MD sells. But they are about $1.15/tooth vs the $3.45/tooth that MD wants. I also like them better. They don't shatter or chip nearly as much as the stellite tooth. If I hit metal with the stellite, it is pretty much finished but with the steel tooth I can almost always reuse after sharpening.
I know sawmill john and MD recommend the stellite because they say it needs sharpening less often, but I have been using the steel for about 5 months now and I have not seen a dramatic difference in sharpening frequency. I would be interested in if any of you buy these teeth what you think of them. I say they are well worth it.
The teeth are: 3 8/9 9/32 long then part number 10256200. Cost about $115 for a box of 100 bits. You can get Menominee Saw's number from the left side of your screen since they are a sponsor.

BUT I am just a backwoods sawyer...

NAAH. Your just bring food to the table.

Bob, the teeth on the edgers are a different size than the main saw.  The main uses 5/16" and the edgers use 1/4".  Also, the main is thicker.  I think it is 8 guage and the edgers are 10 guage, but don't quote me on that part. ;) :D  The teeth are exactly the same style, though, and you have to look close to tell the difference.

JeffB
I just want to clarify.......

"Buzz, I'm not trying to put down a "backwoods sawyer' as you indiacte"

I said BUT...meaning I am not as experienced as many sawyers here  :).....just a a small fry who DOESNT know all the ins and outs

and that my opinion is very perocial, limited and and local.
I was not in any way infering that you dislike or put down anyone.......you got too big a heart for that ;)
Surely you know me better than that? ;) :) :) :)
your opiion and experience DWARFS mine.... and I appreciate it ...if anything I feel sheepish voicing a  different take than you being you have run a saw around quite a few times :)

Buzz my perception is way off right now. I may be going back to the hospital tonight, but a call down there says they are swamped and dont know when they can give me an answer from the dr.  I have had otitis Externa,  "swimmers ear" in both ears all weekend. Real bad pain, but tonight, the pain is almost gone but in the last 24 hours I have lost at least 50% of my hearing. Its as if I had in a pair of very good ear plugs, but Tammy says my ears look clear.

I TOLD ya to use ALCOHOL. That's what we use. It will absorb the water and end the infection.

  Dilute it a little. We use 70% and mix it around 60-40 to water.

   I got water deep in my ear Sunday afternoon, in the shower. This morning, I had some real discomfort in my upper jaw area. Got the Alcohol, and dripped a few drops in. Made a small paper towel "worm" and absorbed the extra out. NOW, I have that dreaded Tinnitus back, but, I can hear and the discomfort is gone.

  KIDS.  ::) ::) ::)   ;D :D :D

You can get bit kerfs from 7/32 to 3/8 in Simond bits.  I run both a B pattern and an F pattern saw.  The teeth for those saws are all the same, its the shanks that are different.

For inserted bits, look at the shank and there will be either a number or a letter on them.  B, F, & D style shanks all use the same bit.  

I used to run chrome bits.  I went back to steel after hitting too much trash.  I never thought that the carbide would be cost effective.  You can buy a lot more steel than you can the carbide.  

Buzz

I've often wondered if anyone did that on a big headsaw.  I always noticed that short teeth don't stay sharp for very long.  So, I figured you would be running with half of the teeth duller than the other half.  

As for taking away sawdust, I always figured you had to make dust to take it away.  A shorter tooth is just there for the ride, not really doing any work.  

There is nothing like running with a fresh set of teeth, except with a brand new saw.   8)

Hi Ron
I think you are right that the short teeth are doing 0 cutting they never come close to the wood..........because they are VERY short....
I know a little dust spill out of the gullet and so on and , it seems the extr gullets and spaces on the non cutting teeth help out catch it out.
I like the chrome very much they seem to stay sharp a good bit longer.but dont seem to like the metal any too much.
I have found that my feed rate (about a foot a second) is good...and the only real differnce in my limited experience is , I spend less on teeth  :)

JEFF
Sorry to hear your hurting...our family is prayin for ya pal ;)

Buzz,
How, What and where do you sharpen the chrome teeth? I have never used them.

I just use a grind wheel to touch them up(similair to jockey grinder) ....forget about using a file.they is hard!

Man i have a lot to learn i feel like the doctor just slapped my be hind.

When I used chrome, I would use a grinder to knock off the chrome on the first grinding.  After that, you can use a file, but it is very tough on the file.  You can also use a diamond file, which will last a long time.

I used to use IKS chrome, but they are no longer thanks to the Simonds monopoly on teeth. Their chrome wasn't as thick and was easier to sharpen and swage.  But, a damaged tooth is much harder to repair.

Well the mill I bought I took my dad with me ripped out the last of the electrical boxes he told me the commercial boxes alone where worth 3000.  There are other electrical boxes if anyone wants me to take pictures and send them.  I then fired up the torch took all the risers or end stands I don't know what they are called they where welded with plate on Big channel.  With five gallon jug of water to prevent fire I started looking at the lower story and come to find out a few other items that had dropped under everything extra parts hehe..  I started looking through there makeshift garbage can finding other parts new gears ect I don't know why they threw them away and found at the bottom of the stairs I dropped to my knees and started looking for electrical parts they just threw.  I found another big blade.  Loaded up all the rollers and heavy on the back for a small bronco made it down the road to a sawyer jack.  My dad has never meet the gentlman I told of this and that with the mill and I squeezed a little more info out of him showed him the blade I found he said it needed to be given to a machinist to be heated and hit flat.  He told me that it is a big bottom edger blade now I have two.  He looked over the parts I found the ex employees threw and come to find out he quoted me now that looks like some serious money in parts good score.  He invited me to saw up some logs tomorrow Thursday 7th.  So I will take some more picks and pick his brain a little more. Will bring some gloves.  I also found out all the good lumber under the mill and cut up is all old growth that's all it ever cut he said he is friends with the owner I had no idea.  And the owner told me I could take everything except the caterpillar generator that powered the sawmill.   After I paid him I left his house went back to him and got a bill of sale what stays and what goes.  So I need to go and get more lumber to build a nice shed for the sawmill.
Jack also said stellite teeth last longer I will have to experiment I guess. 
Bobby

HEY, JEFF. HOW'S YOUR HEARING NOW?

-DOUG  ;D

NOT GOOD!

outer ear infection antibiotics did not stop the "otitis externa" it progressed to become "otitis media".  The infection weakend my right eardrum to the point that it burst earlier in the week. I cant here much at all out of the right ear and the left is very inflamed and full of fluid.  I found out exactly how much hearing I have lost at this point this morning. (please excuse the example, but it is telling)  I was standing taking a leak in the bathroom, and I can't hear it hit the water. :-\ (And yes, I was hitting the target.) :D

I have big troubles if I dont regain some hearing as this gets better. THey have me on a big time antibiotic that has all kinds of restrictions including no sun, not milk, not vitamins, all kinds of crazy stuff. Big one is NO SUN EXPOSURE. :'(

Don't sound good Jeff. Good Luck.

Jeepers, Boss!! :o  You do whatever you have to, to preserve your hearing!  I'd be getting a second opinion on them Anti-B's!  Sounds to me like they're using the wrong one!

Ditto on the second opinion!!!!!!!
M had a doctor in WI give her a scrip for some anny-b's that had the sun restriction. The cure was worse than the illness!
Boric acid shaken up with the alchohol is what we always used growing up for swimmers ear.
They do grow back pretty much as good as new after a drum pops, only the doctor can tell the diff.
Sounds like you ought to use visual rules for awhile :D

THey just started the new anitbiotic with restrictions, on, oh heck, I took the DanG pill 3 times so far. 3 says ago.  I'm not worse yet. :D

DanG it JB,
Didja break a mirror or have a black cat cross your path?
Been a rough year ain't it?

I said" BEEN A ROUGH....."

Thats a funny one there Karl... :D

Well that's it enough of this getting sick business .It is time to get better and that is a order or you will have to come up here fishing and get some
R & R !!!!!!!!!!!!!
doublecut

I agree Lindsay.It's time he made a Western tour.

Dont count it out.

JeffB,
When you do the western tour you'll have to stop by.  I'm right on the short route to BC.  According to Google Maps, it's only 765 miles from your place to mine, an easy day's drive in the Forestry Forum truck, I'm sure.  ;D  ;D

Jeff,

Why did you wait so long to start getting medical aid for your ears? I have had like problems with my ear canals since the sixties from water skiing in polluted water.

What Harold said about using Alcohol works well as does hydrogen peroxide at a 50% strength.  Take your medicine and stay out of the sun, it's beats getting a worse problem.

HOPE THAT YOU ARE BETTER!

  HEY, "D" and I have finally agreed on something.  8) 8) 8) :D :D :D 8) 8) :D

I didn't wait! I was at urgent care the day after they started bothering me. They already had me on antibiotic drops before the real pain set in and way before Harold suggested using alcohol. They told me don't put ANYTHING in my ears other then the drops and not to try to clean them and let the antibiotic work. I did for three or four days and then the hearing started to go. I called them IMMEDIATELY and they said it was simple congestion, to go get some clariton "D" and take that. that was on the forth. I called my Dr the very next day as soon as he was in, he got me in the next day, and saw that things had escalated. I have taken the new antibiotic since then with no improvement as yet, I am now to see a ears nose and throat guy Friday morning.

Jeff,

Sorry to hear more about your ear problem. When you go to your ear, nose, throat doc., make sure that he takes sample of the ear canal for cultures. In my case, I have had mold, fungus, and bacteria growing in my ear canal, each requiring a special treatment.

If you got a full blown infection going in the canal, the alcohol does not work that well. It works best if you know that you got water in the canals and put a few drops of alochol in right away and not let an infection get started.

I hope that you get on top of this problem soon enough that you don't loose your hearing.