I'm framing up this shed, and will be transporting it on a trailer so it has to be pretty strong.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13183/Shed.JPG)
I'm framing the walls first, then I'll build a frame base and assemble on from there.
All rough sawn, the walls are 2x4 stick framed, and I'll be screwing those walls down on an 8' x 14' base of 2x6's 16 o.c.
The rafters will be 4x4's decked with 5/4 boards. Siding will be horizontal taper lapped.
I want to use all my milled lumber, and I don't really want to use any OSB or plywood for sheathing so I'm wondering if I can use 4/4 on the inside, nailed at 45 dgrs or close to it for wall paneling, and then put up the lap siding right on the exterior studs?
Also I'm using 5/4 on the floor, and wondered if I should deck the whole 2x6- 8x14' base with the 5/4 first, then screw the wall plates down on top of the 5/4, or should I screw the walls down on the 2x6 base first, then install the 5/4 inside?
Would appreciate any thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Pat.......:)
On the floor, I would deck it before putting the walls up. I've tried it both ways and deck first always seems to work better. It seals it from drafts better and just gives a more professional look. IMO.
I don't see why you couldn't panel the inside first on angles. The only concern I would have would be the weight of the wall...how do you plan to stand it up? I would put some sort of vapor barrier between the exterior of the studs and the siding though. Either felt paper or Tyvek.
Stew
Normally you would place the walls on top of the floor/decking.
Hardest part about the rest of it is getting everything to fit up right when you put it together, and the weight of the walls/sections. The weight may give you trouble getting things together.
I'm currently considering the same idea as you, but mine will be much lighter and I'll just add my sheathing on the inside walls latter.
Yes I'll be puting up a vapor barrior which is craft papered insulation on the inside, then a building wrap on the outside.
When you guys say weight you mean picking up the wall 6" and setting on the 2x6 deck? I'll hoist it. That's no problem.
Good- I'll do the deck first.
I was just wondering if the 4/4 nailed on the inside walls would be enough shear strength, so I could just nail up my lap siding horizontally on the outside without having to nail up OSB sheathing underneath?
Also, I'll install those wall frames on the deck first, then sheath the inside and outside. I'll just hoist up the frames like in the picture, then do all he installs on it while it's up and in place.
Quote from: Radar67 on January 08, 2007, 11:40:30 PMThe only concern I would have would be the weight of the wall...how do you plan to stand it up?
That's one of the walls there with the window in it. I framed it on the concrete just like the one that's down now, and I just huffed it up on edge. I'll be rigging up a hoist tomorrow.. :D
Pat, when I framed houses for a living, we used the old black asphalt board for sheathing. To get the strength, we either nailed up a piece of plywood on each corner, or mortised a 1x4 into the corners. I used the 1x4s on my cabin and it strengthened the framing up real good.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12911/StewShed06.jpg)
You can see the 1x4 on the left corner here. Keep it close to a 45 or 60 degree angle for the most strength.
Stew
Also, tie it off to the floor joist and the top plate of the wall for the most strength.
Stew
Whoops, I'm posting on top of you Stew, here's a couple more cents.
Don't forget to diagonal sheath the floor also. Before ply all sheathing was boards and IMHO they are often superior in shear since they make a larger uninterrupted triangle. Normally the diagonal wall sheathing went outside, over the studs, tarpaper, then siding. Your plan would work as long as it's not an engineered wind or seismic area. I saw one house that was double sheathed, layers diagonal both ways, then sided. Talk about solid. Breathes better than osb too. I beleive 5/8 is the minimum code thickness for board sheathing.
I thought about the mortised 1x4 Stew, but I was thinking the inside walls on 45 may be good enough. The size of the building is exempt from all building code requirements up here.
Well thanks for the help. Building these little things are kind of fun.. 8)
There is a metal T used for bracing where you snap a chalk line where you want the brace to go, make a saw cut the depth of the T, and nail it into the studs and plates. Of course it is the "M" word. ::) Clif
Is that the same "M" word that equals the "Empty Word" in my wallet.. ??? :D
No, I was thinking of Metal!!!
Let us know how fast it you want to go ?
sounds like it is good for about 35 MPH ...downhill
Was thinkin' bout mounting a bench seat, and cut some holes for your feet in the floor. Kinda like the Flinstones.. :D
Quote from: clif on January 09, 2007, 02:16:35 AM
No, I was thinking of Metal!!!
Same difference these days.. ::)
I've used the 12 ft metal tee windbracing throughout my recent building to make some shear walls. It is easy to use and is about 3$ each length. It really stiffens up a building in a hurry.
Ken
Is that Simpson? Where can I see those?
I was thinking about using broken band blades for that.. ;D
He's a tip for installing the T windbraces.
Lay it where you want it with the ridge of the T facing up or away from the wall.
Move it over just a little and tack each end and maybe the middle.
Now use the ridge as a guide for your circular saw.
Pop out the tacks and flip the brace over and into the slot.
Nail it in place.
8) :)
I've seen floors (and walls) sheathed with 1 by material on 45 degrees in both directions. Floors first, then the walls as suggested above and walls double sheathed and then papered, then sided.