Folks,
I can use some help here. I've been cutting for a number of years on a circular mill. I now have a bandsaw mill (and my never go back to my circular mill). I typically cut my lumber for building sheds, barns, etc.
Now, with theFolks,
I can use some help here. I've been cutting for a number of years on a circular mill. I now have a bandsaw mill (and my never go back to my circular mill). I typically cut my lumber for building sheds, barns, etc. Usually 1x and 2x, etc.
Now, with the new mill, I was wonder how I should cut the following wood species for each of my applications taking in consideration of planning and milling where needed. I will be building a new home in a year or two and wanted to cut my lumber now so it will be dry and ready.
Poplar – I want to use this for tong and grove paneling on my ceiling. I have plenty of it and my wife likes how it looks against the red oak.
Cherry – I plan on using Cherry for all my kitchen cabinets and furniture.
Maple – Plank flooring.
Thoughts and ideas as to how to cut these species is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
Tremel
Both ways (circle and band) will produce lumber. Getting there is the main difference. Is that what you are asking? How to clamp the log and turn it to get lumber with a band?
Went to your website. Couldn't open any of the interesting areas you listed, but would encourage you to bring some of those pics to your gallery here. Please. :)
Sorry about the website. I moved to a new provider and haven't updated the site. Too much going on and not enough time to worry about it.
I guess I'm asking two questions. 1st, how can I maximize the quality of my boards? For instance, what is a typical rough cut for maple being used for flooring and what is the best cut from the log? Should I cut my flooring 1 1/4" (allowing for 1/4" of milling).
The second question would be how to make the cuts? Should it be heartwood? Quarter sawn (if possible), etc...
When I cut framing lumber, I don't pay too much attention to these details. Now, I need to focus since I'm cutting into some beautifull hardwoods and plan on using them in my home.
Thanks,
--Bill
I only have about 2 cents worth of opinion, but I'll gladly share that. ;D
With the poplar on the ceiling, quarter saw a little bit, then flat saw a little bit, and go with the look you like best.
With the cherry, flat saw all of it. It is a bunch prettier that way, imho. ;)
Don't know nuthin' about maple.
If you want to see the grain, then flat sawn gives the most interesting patterns. But, those diffuse porous woods don't have as prominent of grain as the open grained species like oak and ash. Poplar will also take a stain really good.
As for thickness, it depends on what you want your finished size to be. If you want 1", then you should be able to get away with 1 1/4". You have to figure shrinkage and milling.
Most flooring mills use 4/4 lumber where the target size is 1 1/8". I think they dress out around 7/8".
QuoteI guess I'm asking two questions.
It opens up to more than two. I'll throw in two cents as well...but I want it back if it doesn't help! :D
With flooring, you can tipically cut in 4/4 or 5/4 letting you get a 7/8's or 3/4 finished product. But that depends on the wood. Each wood will dry different. If the wood your cutting moves while drying, like cupping or warping, cut it thicker.
Quarter sawn wood is more stable than flat sawn when it dries. My opinion is it makes a better flooring and will typicaly wear more evenlly than flat sawn. In some wood, it can reveal the beautiful figure within.
I would also suggest, you over estimate and cut lots more than you intend to use.
For furniture, I use lot's of 4/4 and plenty of 8/4. I never seem to have enough 8/4, though. :-\ The wider the boards you cut think about upping the thickness to the next 1/4" form what you may need. That way by the time you dress out cupping and such from a 12" - 16" wide board, you still have plenty thickness left for your project. Wide boards make me happy. ;D
I should also mention there is a ton of info in past threads on all that. Search this site for the info you need. There's been a lot on flooring and all you want to do.
I cannot start to tell you how much I have learned here.
Hijack ;D ;D Getting logs, Brian ??
Glad to hear from you FDH'er. I'm not at all surprised to see an old pirate like you "hijacking" this thread.
I haven't been logging in the past few months cause I be busy with other things. Another week or two and I'll be in the water. Rivers are low and clear still here in N. central FL.
Had to attend that "Master Deadhead Logging" class last month. There were almost 20 people there, and most of them were just getting into it. Three guy's from Palaka want to log the St. Johns River.
After a 4 hour class, I too, have been knighted, as a Master Deadhead Logger! 8) :D :D
But not to get off the original subject of this post, I want to add, that when your sawing, be careful. Hope that helps! :D :D
Brian Stocking Esq.
Master Deadhead Logger
;D :D :D :D
Thanks everyone for your input. I'm cutting my Cherry this weekend for my cabinets. I'll cut most of it 4/4 and some at 5/4. I'll shoot for 5/4 with my flooring (Maple). I'm kicking around taking out some of these Beech trees I have in my pasture and using it for flooring. The are huge and have some really nice clear, straight grain. I have plenty of sugar maple as well which I plan on using for flooring.
Thanks again,
--Bill