If you got one of the older Wood-Mizer mills without the rollers on the top of the backstops, you've probably had problems with big or rough logs trying to climb over them.
I made up a pair of extensions out of 3" channel iron. They are 18" long and have two chunks of 3/16 x 1-1/4 bar stock welded across the toes. Probably rectangular tube stock would work even better but that is what I had.
We just slip them on the outer two backstops when we get a climber. Once we've got the log down to size, we pull them off throw them under the mill until next time.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/BackStopExt2.JPG)
8)
A couple of years ago, Mary and I developed a mounting bracket to attach a dust collection hose to Wood-Mizer mill. It worked great because it kept the hose in tight to the sawhead and did not interfere with the operation or maintenance of the mill.
Well, I can't think of an idea that couldn't be improved upon. While the old design worked really well, there were two weaknesses; One, the mounting location on the front corner of the water/gas tray made it difficult for Mary to remove and replace the water tank. Two, mounting of the bracket to the top of the scale frame was not very sturdy.
When we swapped out or LT40 for the LT40HDG35 Super, I spent a few hours thinking up some better way to mount the light 4" water pipe we had use in our first design. I finally decided to move the drainpipe back to the centerline between the fuel and water tank. I found that there was already a bolt and hole in the water tray on that center edge that held a fuel line mounting clip. The lower end of the 2"x2" section of angle iron was mounted off the two bolts that hold the sawhead dust chute funnel.
A piece of 3/4" x 1" tube about 10" long was use to connect the from the dust chute to the angle. A chunk of 1/4x1.25x2" bar stock was used as a tab at the top to bolt to the water tray. The bracket was bolted onto the mill using existing holes. The two bolts holding the hinged chute funnel were replaced with 2" long bolts and the fuel line bolt was replaced with one 1/2" longer. This design required no hole to be drilled in the mill.
I think I can get the side cover off and do minor adjustments, etc., without removing the dust tube assembly. But if I have to, it only requires removal of thee bolts that are easy to get to.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/DustCollectVIIa.JPG)
Overall picture of dust collector tube mounting.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/DustCollectVIIb.JPG)
Left side view of dust tube mounting bracket.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/DustCollectVIIc.JPG)
Right side view of dust tube mounting bracket.
More info and more pictures (https://forestryforum.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?board=sawmill;action=display;num=1032439301#19)
Bib,
Do those extensions on the supports throw the cant out of square?
Naha, Kevin,
The pressure of the log tends to push the channel irons up tight against the uprights.
Besides, you only need them for a couple of 1/4th. turns – buy then, you got the ugly off'n the logs and you can slip the extensions off.
There is a tool I use around my mill that becomes more important as I get older. It is called a Hookaroon. It looks like an axe that has had the blade replaced with a spike and it has a bolt through the head and handle so that it can't be pulled off.
It's use is to move small blocks of wood without bending over. you stick it in one end and lift it so you can hold it in your free hand. then you stick it in the other end of the small block and walk to where you want to drop it.
It is also handy for moving small to moderate sized logs to line up with the mill. once stuck in the end of the log, a hefty tug will pull the end of the log toward you and the energy expended is very little since weight does the work.
I also find it useful to get slabs off of the top of the cant on my bandmill. Sometimes these are thicker than I can handle easily or are stuck to the cant with sawdust. I stick the hookaroon in the top of the slab, lean back and it follows me to the ground. With a little practice, one can drop the slab into the log loader where it can be cut to manageable sizes with a chain saw. It sure beats trying to pull a slab off of the cant with your fingers.
Tom,
Funny you should mention that, I just bought one today.
It has the hole in the head for a pin or bolt but there isn`t one.
I thought I was looking for a pickaroon but I discovered it`s a hookaroon.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmypage.direct.ca%2Fq%2Fquality%2Fctg14.gif&hash=ccbf07a78943c4fc3b046fdc17bf2a2ddaa4c234)
pickaroon
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.madsens1.com%2Fgraphics%255Chookroon.jpg&hash=a5534de3f7837cdbb75f9db738c37911e636d665)
hookaroon
Hey thats a "Pickaroon"
Good picture, Kevin.
you'll find that you will really like it. It's a back saver.
Don't forget to put the bolt through the head.
I salvaged one of these from a sunken lumber schooner in Lake Superior back in the early 1960's. It is a favorite tool. I still carry it in my pick-up. I agree that is a most useful tool and back saver, especially when picking up firewood blocks and pulling pulpwood size sticks.
I'd be lost without and came upon it by accident.
Jeff, that is the way I was learned, too, by both my father and his father who was the Bull of the Woods for years in Western Washington. :P
Sorry guys, old age creeping up. :D I took one with a broken handle and designed my own for "my hand" and extended the handle by 12". I used curly Western Big Leaf Maple. I have only broken one in 4 years. I designed the handle for better balance by enlarging the holding end for weight.
We have several around the mill. I don't see it on this picture, but the ones we have have the pointed end a little more hooked. We also keep some one hades tongs around for grapping cants that may end up flat on the floor. Those are really handy for stock up to 12 inches. 2 guys with hand tongs can carry a log pretty easy.
We don't usually carry logs, only when something stupid happens like, ah, the sawyer rolling a log onto the carriage, only the carriage is still 20 feet away. Pretty handy tools for digging a log out of the tracks!
Jeff,
Thanks for saying that. The same embarrassing moment on a bandmill is when you roll a log onto the bed and the dogs are down.......over the back of the mill it goes and when there is no tractor all you can do is roll it out of the way with a cant hook till equipment arrives. it has to go all the way back around the mill to the log ramp again and you have to hope you didn't hurt anything. Some folks joke about your incompetence when you do things like that but I think that if you don't goof up you aren't doing anything.
I always worry about hurting someone when I'm stupid so I try to make everybody aware that I can be as stupid as they can be so pay attention. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/hookaroon.jpg)
Jeff,
I`m surprised to hear you know about these loggers tools.
All this time I thought you just sat in that little cab eating macaroons , listening to Stomp`n Tom Connors while you stomped the plywood floor out of your booth. :D
Tom,
You're making your slabs too thick! When we've got a big ol' ugly log, we take a hit and miss cut just to get the big butt or lumps off. You learn to be kind to your off bearer when you got to sleep with them and eat their cooking! :-*
Speaking of being kind, here is a little tool I made for Mary. While nature made her "horizontally enhanced" it left her "vertically challenged" - leaving her with a short effective reach. ;)
This tool is just the metal handle from a cheap mop. I found a little metal bracket and affixed it to the end with a small machine screw. There was already a threaded hole. She uses it to straighten boards on the other side of a pile or to reach under a stack to get a load binder strap, etc.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/HappyHooker3.jpg)
Bibbeyman,
I tend to be more courteous to my off-bearers than I am to myself. A lot of the wood I cut is swell butted and there are two reasons I cut deep. The first is that I want the slab gone quickly when I am sawing alone, so I cut to a face that will produce a board. As macho as I am, that still means that I get a slab I have trouble handling sometimes.
The other reason is that I use swell butted slabs for sawing supports for mantels and there is a financial benefit to cutting them thick. I usually have to do this when I am by myself because off-bearers think I am abusing them.
If my off-bearer were my sleeping partner and fed me my meals, I would be doggone sure I would make these cuts when I was alone.
If I had the luxery of a big healthy buck that worked for sweet peas, then I'd cut them all day long. :D
You know Tom, if your mill had came from the factory painted orange, that big slab would have been about a foot closer to the ground and a little easier to pull off. ;D
;D
And Tom said, "If I had the luxery of a big healthy buck that worked for sweet peas, then I'd cut them all day long."
And Charlie replied, "Dang it he did too! Not only did he cut thick slabs, he cut nothing but 2" X 12" X 16' to offload......alllll day! I can still scratch my ankles when standing straight up for crying out loud!" :o
Well Charlie,
If I'm following this correctly you're probably still in hunting blaze. Go change back into Blue jeans and shirt and you'll instantly gain about a foot. :D
The "pickaroon" I have has an axe head on the opposite side of the pick. Handy for knocking off those stubs you didn't see while limbing. Haven't seen one advertized, but mine was my graddad's, so maybe they don't make them any more. I wouldn't be with out a cant hook either. Off-bearer? :D
I thought that was me! :D :D
Speaking of cant hooks, the only new ones I can find are made by Dixie. I bet they were good at one time but I don't think the people that make them now ever tried to use one. They are way too blunt on the bit and the curve us not quite right. >:( We've got a couple of old ones that "know what to do" and work much better. ;)
I'm going to round up all the Dixie brand cant hooks we and take them down to my cousin that makes custom Damascus knifes for some "re-training" :-[ on his anvil – using one of the old ones for a pattern.
I've got a cant hook that just won't hook. Dad and I were moving some logs around and Dad had it. The one I was using was working like one is supposed to. Dad wasn't having much luck. It wouldn't hold. At first I thought it was him :D until we traded tools. That one stays in the shed now. A little heat and some hammering wouldn't hurt it any. It's not worth a #!*^ the way it is and that is how it came from the factory!! They don't test drive them first.
I have the same problem with a new one we bought. You have to hammer in the dog to get it to hold. We ordered a cant hook and ended up with a can't hook. :D
Only trouble I've had with mine is pulling out of loose bark, but that's normal, take a bigger "bite", and it grabs. It's old, though. No idea of the brand. "Can't Hook" That's a good one! :D
I took a picture of three of our cant hooks. The one on the top is a smaller one and works really well. The one on the bottom is an average size one and works pretty good. Probably would work better if it were sharpened. The one in the middle does not work worth a darn and could get you hurt.
In case you don't recognize the odd color wood, its Osage Orange. (Got a thing about Orange! 8) )
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/Hooks.jpg)
Just a guess, but the only real difference I see is that the one in the middle has a sharper curve. Looks to me that it would give it less of a bite. You might try heating it and opening the curve. Probably have to reposition the hook to maintain the correct angle. LeeB :P
Heh Heh!! Look at the tips. You can tell the non-middle ones have been used a lot more! :)
Just a thought, fellas; the smaller curved units are for smaller logs. This is what I have found to be the case for the 8 or 10 I have around my mills... but I am just a youngin in this business. And I ain't go much of that thar book learnen in engineren 'tither. :P :D :D
Well, in this case, the one in the middle will not even hook on a log say 10" diameter and smaller because of the distance from the point to the end of the handle where it would press against the log.
Now it works perfectly fine for turning cant on the mill so I guess it does function as a CANT hook. It just doesn't work for turning and rolling logs. It does not bite into and through the bark. Instead, it scrapes along until it pulls out.
Maybe I'll look up Dixie and send them these pictures and comments and see what they have to say for themselves. Probably these tools are made in China.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/hose%20fitting1.JPG)
We were sawing away last weekend and somehow the hydraulic line going to the up/down cylinder on our Wood-Mizer got under the clamp arm. It didn't slow the arm down none, it just broke the fitting on the bottom hose. Not to worry, I'd go to town and get one. Looked at a couple of place where I thought may have one but they didn't. Not to worry, I'd go to Jefferson City on Monday and get one when the farm equipment dealer opened. Got there and he looked at it and said, "That's one of those plastic hoses. I ain't going to have one. But you may try the industrial supply store." Got there and got the same answer except they told me to try the farm equipment dealer. I tried two more industrial supply place and they didn't have one but suggested I try the large automotive supply place. I did and they told me to try the big truck dealership. The truck dealership told me to try the other farm implement dealer as they also carry industrial equipment. Tried them and they told me to try the forklift people across and down the highway. They didn't have one but assured me any one of the other places I tried would. I tried the Bobcat dealer and then quit.
Common to every experience was – they'd take the part and go look the come back and say; "That's one of those fittings for a plastic hoses. We only carry stuff for rubber hoses." And "What's it off of?" Then I'd have to explain all about that and that only took time that didn't help. Then they'd suggest the same lineup of usual suspects that they were sure would have it that I'd already tried.
Got back home and called the hydraulic engineering place in Mexico, Mo. They'd have one. "Nope, that's one of those thermal plastic hoses and we don't stock them or the fittings." Had one guy in the store at the time that used thermal plastic hoses on bucket trucks for high line work but he only used 3/8" and all he knew is he always had to order them.
Resolved I could not repair this hose myself from local parts, I called Wood-Mizer and had them send me out a new hose assembly and two extra fittings just in case I could find someone to repair the one with a broken end.
After I got off the phone with them, I found a copy of the McMaster-Carr catalog and looked up hydraulic hose fittings. After a bit of searching and head scratchin' I found a 1/4" female swivel fitting that was self-clamping and thus didn't need to be taken off and to someone to crimp a new fitting on. It is also reusable. I called them and placed an order for two of them. With shipping they came to $10.00 each but it was sure a cheep fix. One part slips over the hose and the other part screws into that part and at the same time expands the hose to form the clamping and sealing action. Took about two minutes to put on. Took about another 10 minutes to get the hydraulic reservoir up to the right level as it about emptied the tank.
Looks like it's going to work. The McMaster-Carr part number for this fitting is 52305K91. Looks like they will work on the clamp assembly and the toe boards. I'm going to look the mill over and check the parts manual and get a couple these reusable fittings for every size and type connection we have. That way I'll never break another one.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/hose%20fitting2.JPG)
McMaster-Carr #52305K91 for thermalplastic 1/4" hose - reusable and does not require crimping.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/hose%20fitting4.JPG)
This one come out a little blurry but you can see the threads inside the female part and how the other part tapers to expand the tube to form seal and clamp.
We had a White Seed Boss cornplanter at work that had these type hoses and fittings. One day one broke. I was near Alpena and tried the tractor places, auto stores etc just like you did and no one had them :o. They could, for a price ;), order them for me from a White dealer in the Thumb. I packed up the hose and broken fitting and headed back to my home base in Indian River. The next morning I went to Ginop Sales in Alanson, they sell MF, New Holland, Kubota etc and have a large stock of hydraulic stuff. They matched up the fittings that I needed and made me two regular hydraulic hoses to replace the plastic ones. The fittings were odd too. Not standard at all. That is my only and hopefully last experience with that kind of hose. I wasn't impressed. Not with the hose but the lack of availability. It's good to know that those fittings are available someplace 8) It's still pretty inconvenient when you can't just go to town and pick up what you need.
Hey guy's we at Petersons make a spring loaded canthook, we call it the "Rhino can hook" he he... :D It's got a horn on the end of it, so you just basicly place it on a log, turn, retract to the next bite and so on. I don't use our ordinary ones any more, it's just not the same!
I come up with the idea when I was contract milling off site, being sick of slamming into the log only to turn it a third of a turn then slamming into it again to get another bite, it gets tedious! The first day for my mate milling, crushed three of his fingures between the hook and the handle of the traditional ones, I'm sure that was a great introduction to milling for him! :o Besides being a great Cant hook it can lift logs off the ground for skidding or firewood chopping with your chainsaw, can be adjusted to different sized logs.
It's interesting what you can come up with out of neccesity besides, it won me the prototype award at the national fieldays in New Zealand, my friends and I had a good night out on the prize money. ::)
Kiwi J,
That just begs for a photo. Sounds like a good deal.
Noble
Kiwi,
I would like to see a pictore of that also, sounds interesting!
I also recently purchased a cant hook and like many of the other posts indicated its a not-so cheap foreign copy. I like the comment about the CAN'T HOOK :D :D :D. I was referring to it as a localized debarker :(! just doesn't seem like you should have to carry a mallet with you so you can knock the hook into the wood. Its about ready to hit the pile of stuff that has to be re-engineered for real life work.
John :)
Bibbyman,
Thank you for sharing the info about the hyd. fittings. I made a note in my Mizer's parts manual in case I ever need to replace one. Those fittings look like the way to go if you don't have to replace the whole hose. Again, thanks.
Bibbyman
A would have thout all the shops you went to would have had that! All the NAPA's I have ever used for tractor parts have this "Weatherhead" brand fiting for the black ruber line. Is this one just for your plastic hoses or is that the same as I am thinking of?
Andy
The thermoplastic lines are smaller in outside diameter than the common Gates style rubber hose. All the above listed places assured me they could not crimp a rubber hose coupling onto my plastic hose. The hydraulic engineering place said they had repaired a few by using a coupling meant for a gas line by doing some machining on it to change the inside diameter.
Also, there was some discussion that the angle of the faces where the two lines actually mesh are different for the two types of hoses - I think the rubber hose type has a 31 degree face and the thermoplastic type has a 37 degree face.
The NAPA dealer was one place I didn't try. ::)
Did you ever notice that whenever you find something it's always in the LAST PLACE YOU LOOK !!
Noble
You would think if something has worked fine for ALL those years thay would not be so fast to change it all around like that ::)
Noble
For me it's a lot like Bibbyman, I look at all the places for it and DONT find it! :-/ Then I find a diferant way to do it and go on a new quest for the new thing ;) Then it's found in the LAST PLACE I LOOK ::) :'(
Andy
I usually find what I was looking for after I don't need it any more while I'm looking for something I need now but can't find. (https://forestryforum.com/smile/confused.gif)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/wsideanb.jpg)
Noble came up with a great way to unload ties and other large beams from the backside of his mill. He built a pair of two-legged sawhorses out of 2" square tubing.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/wsideadb1.jpg)
ARKANSAWYER decided there wasn't enough daylight in a day so he rigged his mill with 12v running lights. One on the belt shield shown down on the log. One mounted on the right lower corner of the control box shown on the blade and guide rule. He tapped into the existing wiring for the laser site option for power and used the switch hole to mount the toggle switch.
The nicest thing that is handy around the mill are people that will do anything to keep food in their bellies. Any of you try this on the young ones, like "if you don't help with the mill today you'll go to bed without supper"
I find conscripted labor usually to be less than useless :( :( :(
On the subject of "Handy things around the mill" I stopped at Peavey Manufacturing yesterday in Eddington, Maine. (I was in the locality on Business). They have a small factory store. Unfortunately, I did not get a look at the facility and the forge was closed for the day. They have an extensive selection of anything wood tool related (Cant hooks, peaveys, hookaroons, axes, replacemant tips and handles...more)
I picked up a debarking spud, a 30" Peavey (for the times that 54 inches is too long) and a replacement shovel handle for $4.
They are very close to my normal route of business travel, and I will certainly stop again.
Captain
Hmmm, mebey this goes without saying but a small gas powered leafblower is invaluble around a mill site. Mine just qiut the otherday and before I got it fixed, I realized just how much I used it, Missed it bigtime. When Im done cleaning up, it looks like I havent been working for weeks as there is no sawdust anywhere on the millfloor.
Ok..so where do I pick up a pickaroon...anyone have a web sight to purchase one please?
I have a pickaroon kit i'll sell ya. Cheep
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/chipper_meets_pick2.jpg)
bailey and madsen both offer them. If you don't get Jeff's try their websites.
http://www.madsens1.com/
http://www.baileys-online.com/
Be sure you get the right tool A hook-a-roon is an axe handled tool and a pick-a-roon is a Pike ended tool.
I favor the hook-a-roon.
Tom,
I'd druther have macaroons :D
Noble
Now that you mention it, Noble, I like macaroons best too. ;D
http://www.peaveymfg.com/
go here and request a catalog....
I didn't see any macaroons
Captain
" OH MOTHER!!!!!".....now THATS a muck rakin mass "O" metal :)
thanks for the web sites for the pickaroon, macaroon...ok ok..what ever the pointy thingy is....
Tom,
I have several axe handles with a narrow curved spike about 6 inches long. Looks like the remains of what Jeff ran thru his chipper. I have alway heard this called a pick- a roon. What is a "hook-a-roon? A Pike pole is what they used to move logs in a mill pond. It is a pole about 10ft long with a metal hook and a point on the end. They could pull or push a log with.
I have to agree with Noble. Macaroons are good to have around the sawshed ;D Anybody got a good website for macaroons? :P
D._Frederick
Here is a picture of each that Kevin put in the front of the thread. There is also a picture of various styles of Hook-a-roons in one of these threads too. I'll have to look for it. Councils are the most popular down here.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmypage.direct.ca%2Fq%2Fquality%2Fctg14.gif&hash=ccbf07a78943c4fc3b046fdc17bf2a2ddaa4c234)
pickaroon
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.madsens1.com%2Fgraphics%255Chookroon.jpg&hash=a5534de3f7837cdbb75f9db738c37911e636d665)
hookaroon
???
So what is the difference between a "pickaroon" and a "pike pole"???
Vocation??
Captain
Isn't a pike pole used in raising timber frames by hand? Once a bent is raised above everyones heads, the pike poles are used to continue raising the bent into the air.
Pike poles were used on the water rafting logs too. The long poles were used for balance and the pike spike was used to maneuver logs.
I think a pick-a-roon is a shorter version of a Pike Pole.
Must be different out west. What you have pictured would be a pike pole and a pick-a-roon.
The pike pole was used on the pond or river and the pick-a-roon was used for pullin slabs from places you shouldn't be putting your hands. ;D
I see more Pike Poles on fire trucks than I do at sawmills...
I've used them most for breaking windows, pulling ceilings, and opening cut roof holes with fire underneath. ::)
As I stated earlier .... vocation.
Captain
I have seen more pike poles on firetrucks also.
Will
Up here, Top pick is a pike pole, bottom picture is a pickaroon
I have quite a collection of both them critters. The South wall in the mill building has 12 or 14 pickaroons hanging and 3 pike poles that were used on a pond in Vansetz, Ore. The town does not exist any long. It was owned by Boise. It was one of two last owned mill towns in Oregon. Boise torn down all of the buildings and burned them. The tiltup slabe school buildings were hauled to another town and again used as a school. The pond was drained and trees were planted throughout the area. :'(
I make a lot of use of my pickaroon. Its in the back of the truck whenever I'm working in the woods. I just soaked and painted the head again for as its annual maintenance.
I always wonder how old it is as I found it in 40 feet of water in a U.P. lake 42 years ago. Still on the same handle and a lot of hard use.
That comment reminds me of the sale of George Washinton's axe. :D
This winter I visited Owl Creek Sawmill. The owner is an older gentleman running a LT40HD. The guy has a lot of experience sawing and no wasted motions. The one tool that was always within his reach is this home made thingy. It is an old truck spring with a turned hedge handle. He said it was his favorite thing around the mill and used it for prying, lifting, and could take loose bark off a log faster than I can type it.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/tl1.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/tl2.jpg)
One of the things I keep handy beside my evening chair is a copy of the northern tool
Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company catalog. I was looking through it the other evening and was amazed at how much stuff they have that are of use around the farm, sawmill, wood cutting or logging operation. Hydraulics, engines, motors, Bobcats, Wood-Mizer LT15 sawmills, blades, chains, skidding tongs, small tractors, etc.
Just thought I'd mention it in case some have not found northern tool
Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company yet or just get their small flyers they send out.
northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company web site link (http://www.northerntool.com/)
It had rained for a day and half and then turned bitter cold – getting down to about 0 and only warming up to into the teens. The next day was still below freezing. Mary called me at the office about 12:00 to tell me that 'she'd it fixed'. Then went on to explain.
She had sawn one log and when loading the second log, the check valve at the bottom on the cylinder on one side of the loading arms broke. (the lower section of the loading arm assembly was setting in frozen sawdust, bark and other debris)
She'd called Wood-Mizer to ask for help. They suggested she take the cylinder off and to a shop where they could remove threaded section still stuck in the cylinder. This she had done and also got some fittings to temporarily restore function to the loading arms.
When I got home from the office, she added that after she'd gotten it fix and went in to eat lunch, warm up some and to call me, she went back out to saw and promptly broke the check valve off'n the cylinder on the other side! She repeated the removal, run to town and back, and temporary fix on that side. This time she got a lesson in using an Easyout by the shop mechanic. She also bought a set of Easyouts for "next time".
I don't know how much this all cost but it was not a very productive day.
Wood-Mizer, does not like to give these little buggers away – asking about $50 bucks for a pair. She told them she'd talk to me about it before ordering (incase I knew where to get them locally).
I pondered and looked for a source the last couple of evenings without any success. I decided to take one in to show a couple of the Industrial Engineers in at the office to see if they'd have a clue where to get them locally.
But during the night, I came to the conclusion that only a coupe of threads had been broken off. Maybe the shoulder could be turned back a bit and the treads re-cut to repair the little rascals.
Today, instead of talking to the guys I had intended, I approached an I.E. that had been a machinist for years and still did a lot of his own metal work in the shop. He said "Sure, No problem." An hour or so later he dropped the amended part in my hand. I thanked him and said I'd bring in the other one on Monday. "Sure, No problem. Be glad to help." Me thinks I owe him a cup of coffee. ;)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/wscheckvalve.JPG)
The little check valves are about 2" long and have 1/4"-18 NPT on each end. Upper one with a couple of threads broken off, lower one re-cut to repair the threads.
I may use a brass male/female fitting between the check valve and the cylinder when I put them back in. The thinking being, if they break again, maybe it'll just break the inexpensive and available fitting and not the check valve.
Bibbey,
I had trouble breaking the 90 degree fitting on my mill in the same place. On my old mill the check valve was attached to a riged piece of pipe.that extended the fitting beyond the stationary loader arm so that it could be fitted to the hose. Sawdust, bark and wood scrap would get under it and it would break. After I had broken a couple of them, I decided that I had had enough.
Rather than the rigid piece of pipe, I had a very short piece of hose made up with a fitting on each end and the fittings attached very close to one another. That left a piece of hose in between the fittings only a couple or three inches long. I replaced the rigid pipe with this contraption and solved the breaking problem. It is very stiff and fits in the hole in the loader arm but is flexible enough that it wont break anything if the loader arm comes down on a piece of trash or in a hole.
Your valve may not have to go back were all the trash is. Why don't you move its location further up the line to a protected place. You may have to fabricate a short hose as I did.
That was a brilliant idea to rethread the valve. :)
Yea, I'd thought about that too. I guess Wood-Mizer wanted the check valve, or 'fuse' as they call it, as close to the cylinder as it could be so it will provide maximum safety. That's all it's there for anyway. But how safe is it when it's the object that causes a failure?
Two young farmers were over this evening making arrangements to bring logs over to saw and we all talked about it. They said there is a cylinder design with both hose connections out one end or the other. Looks like that would help a lot if both hoses came out the top.
Anyways, looks like these little check valves may be something to have a spare of or at least be ready to have a temporary field repair when and if one breaks.
Bib, I did the same thing. Broke off both of those check valves due to material building up around the bottom of the lift and freezing. I like your fix better than mine, but if some of our members don't have access to a lathe or skills to run it they may be able to save them self the cash and down time by what I did. There are enough thread left to thread into a short 1/4" pipe sleeve; apply hydraulic sealant and put an all-thread nipple in the other end and thread into the cyl. I like Tom's idea of the flexible hose or moving those things out of harms way. Plan to do that come spring. Great fix and great advice. I plan on making one of those truck springy thingy also. Which brings up another subject, drilling holes in a truck spring. You all know how hard a file is right? If you have occasion to drill hard metals like that check out this company. I've been to many tool expos where these were being demonstrated and was really impressed. These guys drill through anything with these bits. They're called Bad Dog Bits (Old Butch thinks it a kool name). Thanks Guys.
http://www.baddogtools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=BadDog
I am sorry guys, I lost a velocity fuse, as woodmizer calls it, to frozen build up way back when. I could swear that I posted it but guess I didn't cause I can't find it. I always try to remember to not leave the loader on the ground in the cold, and I keep a spare fuse in the truck. I found an old post I made about keeping the feet raised to keep them from freezing to the ground but it didn't mention the fuses. Sorry I coulda maybe saved you some heartache. :'(
That's true James, but now we know a couple ways to repair them. You know how you always mean to do things, but don't. Like raising the loader for winter or not running the blade into the dogs or clamp. I imagine I'll probably be fixing these things sometime in the future and this will give others a headsup on how to repair them if'n they do the same.
Here is a handy attachment I built for moving trailers and wagons.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/Quick%20Hitch.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/Quicky%20hitch.JPG)
That's a good idea Al, beats looking over your shoulder and trying to see where the receiver hitch is. As a matter of fact it looks like you fab'd that out of the receiver off my pick-up.
Where the heck is the receiver for my pick-up
ALLLLLL :D
Finders keepers Norm 8)
We've used many cant hooks and peaveys over the years. Some hooked well, others didn't. All of the wood handles eventually broke. Out of necessity we started making our own with unbreakable handles and sharp hooks to use around our sawmill. As loggers and tree service guys stopped by the mill to drop off a load of saw logs they said "Hey, where did you get those tools?" We started off making them for friends and the company grew out of that.(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.logrite.com%2Fimages%2Fpv042600.jpg&hash=260b449b00decf01c23615df32e15352dc2b6394)
We're working on pickaroon and hookaroon prototypes right now. I'll post pictures later today. We'd like feedback before we go to production with them.
pete@logrite.com
http://www.logrite.com (Forestry Forum Sponsor)
norm just likes it cause its hooked to a deere ;D
we use something like that for backing hay or gravity wagon, its called a hole in the bucket!
real handy.
Well gee wiz Logrite, I'm sure myself and a few others here on the forum would be willing to be guinea pigs. ;D Why don't you just send a few out to us and we use them and get right back to you on how well they worked. :D :D
:o :o TEECH :o :o :o
Harold, you ever get those big tongs made? I started on a log arch to move logs around people yards and get them to a place where I can load them on my truck. I just missed a large pair on ebay. I thought about buying one from Baileys, but hate to put out that much. Will probably forge a pair myself. One of my students is going to bring me in a couple bags of coke( the black lumpy kind, not the white powerdy stuff) and I'm going to put together a forge.
My grandfather was a blacksmith for the mines. They say he was one of the best around at tempering and was sought out by miners from other mines to temper the point on their picks. He was hired by a mine in Myerdale, Pa and was good enough to be given a house by the mine to live in as incentive to come and work at that mine. Never knew him, died when my dad was 13.(https://forestryforum.com/smile/sad2.gif)
Harold, you willing to be one of them peavy Guinea pigs?
Hey, that's not what Jeff's serving up this year is it?(https://forestryforum.com/smile/SHOCKED.gif)
He told me he might have to cut back.
Man, I got enough projects going to last another lifetime. Glad I'm only going to live another 100 years.(https://forestryforum.com/smile/Wow.gif)
Nope. Don'T like peavey's. They will slip and getcha hurt. Had a brand new one given to me in Arkansas. Tried it twice and it slipped both times. Nearly dumped a log on me the second time. Experienced Sawmill helpers I hired wouldn't touch it, either.
No offense, but, no thanks.
Now then, a set of 36" opening Tongs, that FIT the log, I WOULD try out ;) ;D :D :D
Hey FDH you know I'm justa teasing them Logrite boys, right?
They got some mighty fine looking products and next time I snap a handle I'll probably switch over to the aluminum one. Been eyeing up that 24" to leave on the mill though. Personally I like the peavy better than the cant hook. Seems the ones I have I can get hold of a bigger log with a peavy. On the longer handled ones are the hook and bigger (longer)?When you get up to a 36" log seems like a longer hook would be easier to grab on with.
Yeah, Teech. ;D
On a cant hook, ya got that 1/2" gripper stickin up. That pointed end with no gripper on the peavey, will let the tip slip sideways. We have a cant hook with BIG open hook for big logs. There's NO end on it and it won't stay hooked on the log. The end will slip. Ed hates it and won't use it. I agree with him. I will put him up against nearly anybody when it comes to flippin them logs over.
I was referrin to TONGS that span a 36" log ;D ;D
We just use one size hook right now. It works well on the logs we work with at the mill. Anything bigger than a 36" log we'd be using a machine to move it around. A larger hook for larger logs is a good idea though. We'll kick the idea around and maybe make a prototype to try out. Don't mean to be working the sales angle of the business. Just wanted to inform people that we think there are alternatives out there instead of the same old, same old.
Here is our latest prototype. Any feedback, pro or con?
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.logrite.com%2Fimages%2Fpickroon_700.jpg&hash=7bf285af8e0c121433d849dfabde72774213479f)
pete@logrite.com
I for one, hope you get a good business going with those tools. I'm not knocking anyone's tools, just the Peavey in General. Have used wooden handle cant hooks for several years, and never broke a handle. The ones I had, I made sure the grain ran the right way in the handle. Same for the ones we built for the mill. Bought 1 handle on Ebay and made the other 2 ::)
Was looking at some of the old posts on this thread and it looks like we came to market about 2 years to late.
As far as CH vs PV I prefer the canthook, I grew up on Peaveys that I got from Grandfather who logged in Maine his whole life. About 2 years ago we did a job for a guy who had a pair of old Amidon canthooks and I realy liked the way they bit the logs. After that we started collecting old tools to try, and incorporated the best features into our tool design.
I did a job last week, sawed 5 red oak logs that were all 36"+ and had no problem rolling them with our LogRite canthooks.
neslrite
That prototype tool looks like it would be handy to have hanging on the mill to hook and pull while sawing. Probably be hard on the back of your shirt though. :D How long is it? Could you put a loop on it the hang on the mill head?
Pete
I like the looks of that hook
might be a help stacking & moveing ties
Looks like a hookeroon.
That hook looks so good that I thin if you would send me a free one and maby one with a D handle on it I would give them a real good testing and brag them up real good
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Woody
smwoody,
I'll have to talk to the boss about that. The D-handle tool you're refering to? A pulp hook type thingie?
Yea like a pulp hook We use pulp hooks alot around the mill. they are nice for stacking and moveing ties. It gives you a handle to get a hold on a 7X9.
they prety much stack them selves when you roll them off the ramps I have built, but the hooks make it easy to square up the pile
Woody
Hey Woody
I cut ties and I am interested in your self stacking tie system....could you explain it some more ...or maybe a pic?
Buzz
I drew a quick side viewe of my tie ramp. Build 2 of the 6X6 frames and set them about six feet apart build legs on a 10 foot section of mill rolls and set this on top of the 2 6X6 frames. push the tie out the rolls then when you are centered on the ramps just roll the tie off the back side. Drill a few holes in the bottem 6X6's and stake them down real good (https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/tie-ramp.jpg)
When you get a full bundle band them where they sit and lift them out with your fork lift.
Woody
Thank for the drawing...very professional!
I do similiarly....(using long forks up to the mill, then band on them...)
What do you get for ties?
From where it all began
http://www.peaveymfg.com/HISTORY.HTM
"Pick" poles
http://www.peaveymfg.com/pickpoles.html
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/Pickpole1.jpg)
pickeroons http://www.peaveymfg.com/loggingtools.htm#pickeroons
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/Katahdin%20pickeroon.jpg)
handy hookeroon
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/handyhookeroon2.jpg)
FDL
you still looking for a set of 1 1/2" x 36" Lifting Tongs. Pricey to say the least @ $686.41 :(
but dey be cer tee fied ;)
http://www.peaveymfg.com/loggingtools.htm#tongs
Handiest tool around the mill fer me is the pickeroon, use it for almost all grabbing and clutching I got ta do, also comes in real handy when doing firewood--don't need to bend over so much--but watch out for the shins. :o
Prices have went up since the last load I sent in. But the last ones we $25.92 ea. for 8'6" oak 7X9 and 1 dollar less for mixed hard wood.
Woody
The fella that built my porch had one of them toy mattocks. Of course it broke on the first slab of shale he hooked up on. Broke the horizontal blade off right at the collar. I've been usin' it like a pickaroon ever since. Gotta watch your feet though, it pulls out pretty easy. :-/
The random picture on the forum entrance came up and it was the picture we got of the big 'ole Peavey we took last year. It probably aint handy around the mill but I thought the LogRite fellers might want to look at it.
Here is the link to the thread where the picture appears.
Steiner Museum
(https://forestryforum.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?board=general;action=display;num=1056303243)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/peavey_12ft_handle.jpg)
that sucker is HUGE!
a man could get tired, good thing it has a seat. ;D
red-
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
thanks, needed a good giggle
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/my%20log%20turner%20r.jpg)
This is a log turner I made out of rebar, It works real good on logs over 12" in diameter.
Mary has made many sets of sawhorses. She's got a good scald on a heavy duty set about 16" tall and 4' long she uses to stack lumber on. They work well and sure come in handy.
She started making a second set yesterday and finished them up this morning. This set is made of sycamore. Sycamore is a good choice as it dries out light and is very strong wood. It will also hold the screws better than most any other wood.
I took a couple of pictures. If I get time, I'll get some dimensions and make a drawing and put it in the Knowledge base.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/wssawhorse01.jpg)
Here is what the leg assembly looks like. The legs are 2x4 and the bracing is 1x4.
The legs are 18" long and all angles are cut to 15 degrees.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/wssawhorse02.jpg)
Here is the finished sawhorse. The top board is a 2x6. The 1x4 upright is on there so to help keep one edge of the bundle straight.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/wssawhorse03.jpg)
Here is an old set in use.
Bibbyman, what a great idea! Thanks for sharing, I could really use a few of those. :)
R.T.
Good ol' Sears came through again! 8)
We don't have a Sears in our little town but they have a small one in a town about 30 mile north of us. Real good people that run the place.
Yesterday we had another reason to make a run up to that town so we loaded up two broken Craftsman tape measures to excahange. I think at least one is the third replacement.
Walked in. Greated at the door. Asked how we could be helped. Mary handed the girl the two broke tape measures. It was as good as money. "Come this way." Only had one in stock (small store) but the second one will be sent out to us of their catalog department in 4-8 days.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/wscraftsman02.jpg)
I think we paid about $10 for the tapes years ago. They work well and hold up well. If they didn't, it wouldn't be worth the trouble to keep exchanging them.
Mary especally like how the blade locks as you pull it out. Then you release the lock to let the blade return. The blade lock on others don't work that way.
Boy I sure like them sawhorses
Hi guys,
about cant hooks - we have and use about 6 or 7 of them.
they are STIHL cant hooks. nice and light with a good solid hickory handle (i think).
we also use and sell Peterson cant hooks (RRP USD$70 + tax).
i used these in the solomon islands on logs about 7' in diameter with 3 or 4 guys hanging off them - real strong!!!
Simon
I have modified my above post on the sawhorses to include that ...
The legs are 18" long and all angles are cut to 15 degrees.
Hey Guys,
Got in on this a little late, but I recently bought an all metal cant hook from Cook's, and it works great. I paid $49.00 online. ;D
www.cookssaw.com
That cant weighs 18 pounds.
LogRite's is less than 9 pounds, all metal and is also guaranteed not to break. Not to mention it comes in blue ;).
Now.... If it just came in .. say.... ORANGE;)
Bibbyman,
I second your comments !!!! :D :D :D :D
WoodMizer has one in orange and they bring it to all their shows. You know what the problem is-when they stand it up against the mill they can't find it because it blends in. ;)
Good point, Tamiam! :D :D :D Maybe y'all could make a orange one for the Baker folks. ???
I'd take a pinkone !!! No one would steal a pink one ::) :D :)
They sold Tammy's pink one in Virginia. Somewhere there is a pictures of 'Shopteacher' with that one.
CAPTAIN
I bought a set of them am/fm stereo hearing protectors yesterday...Sure was cool to be able to listen to music all day while I sawed...Lynette likes it too because the mill is loud enough that she cant hear me sing. ;D
Kevin and I have a pair of the radio hearing protection that we fight over. They are a fun thing to have.
When sawing framing lumber, I use this handy guage up against the small end of a log to estimate what I can get out of it.
Here, I can see that I should be able to get four 2 x 10s, plus a couple of 2 x 6s, and a couple of boards.
Ed
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.electric-ed.com%2FMy%2520Sawmill%2Fimages%2F100_0142.jpg&hash=63f738c7f39ba0ef7d5b1851722e90c0f0f01b67)
NOTE FROM ADMIN
The red x above is why we now insist that posted photos reside within the Forestry Forum Galleries. WE HATE RED X'S! :)
Hi! Bob
I'm with you on the remote control. I built my own mill with a 20hp Honda I have hydraulic up & down as well as mud saw. It was a push mill to start but I guess I'm out of shape & alergic to saw dust. So I made an electric cable drive with a capstan, I used a automotive remote power door lock system, I use the lock & unlock buttons for stop & go, the trunk unlock with a washer pump for lub spray & a washing machine switch for reversing the head travel. I'm just updating the head in my shop (it's -10C & 18" of snow outside) I just adapted a bodyshop port-o-power unit withe a 6" cylinder to replace the original springs for the band tension. I also added a couple of pads under my roller blade guides to stop the blade from diving when it gets "pitch" on it. I'm also adapting a 12 volts wiper motor with a chain drive to adjust my movable blade guide . I use my old Bobcat to load logs on the mill. I have to come up with a log turner next. I'll post some pictures as soon as I get the head back on the bed. By the way can anyone tell me how far down I should adjust my blade guides.
Thaks.
Georges
Welcome to the Fourm, GB from BC.
I think we need to see some pictures of your inventions. 8)
Welcome to the forum, Gboucher.
Lumby, BC. I know where that is. I drove through there last summer, twice. I didn't see your mill out by the highway though. :D
Welcome to the forum, GB. On my home built the quides deflect the blade down about 1/4 inch. Thats with trailer tires for bandwheels.
gboucher
You don't need any down force on the blade if your pads under the rollers are correctly adjusted, they should have about 0.015 clearance.
Welcome GB I don't have any downward pressure, not yet anyway. My homebrewed mill is still fairly new and when I set the tracking on it I made sure everything was lined up just right. I'm kinda anal when it comes to things like that but it cuts straight without any wavyness.
Can't wait to se some pics of your set up.
Bibbyman that long tool looks like " hang on a minute there, honey and help me.
;)
You mean this thing...
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/HappyHooker3.jpg)
Just last weekend I was sawing away and noted Mary crossing the sawshed with a purpose in mind. She returned directly with the blue reach extender. I hadn't seen it for a while but she knew where it was when she needed it.
Great minds think alike I guess. :) At my job we use a garden hoe to downstack the lumber bundles. Saves climbing into the racks and helps keep the pressure treatment "slime" off.
I don't think the upper management thinks much of it but they aren't doin' the stackin' and if someone fell out of the rack it would cost 'em way more than a garden hoe.
yep thats the one, that kinda looks to fit the back belt loops maybe. :D
I came home from the office one evening four or five years back and found that Mary had decided she needed a big box to put cut off ends and other items in. She had hacked up some off-all lumber we had around and came up with this design. We later made two more. We've use them almost daily. This time of year we use them to pitch cut off ends from trimming boards. Later in the fall and winter we use them to haul firewood – either cut up slabs and cull boards from the processor or cut off ends. We can set three of the boxes under our back porch. (Not elegant but what the heck – it works!)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wsbox20050901.JPG)
The boxes are 60" length by 40" wide by 36" tall. We made the older ones with 4x6 runners set on edge – one on each end and a 2x6 in the center. We made these with three 3x4s set on edge because that's what we had and we found that the 2x6 didn't last too well. The side boards and deck on the older ones were all 4/4 oak. After a couple of years of hard use, we were starting to loose bottom boards to rot and handling damage.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wsbox20050902.JPG)
This time we had some cull oak we'd sawed for a trailer deck 1-1/2" thick. They were 16' long and all had some major bad spot – thus not usable for a trailer deck. But they produced enough 60" stuff for the deck boards on four boxes. We cut the side boards out of cull 1x6 oak fencing lumber. The four upright pieces are 2x4. On the new boxes, we added an additional 2x4 in the center of the back and front to compensate for the thinner lumber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wsbox20050903.JPG)
We worked as a team on this project. Mary manned the radial arm saw cutting pieces to length, I scrounged around for material and delivered the cut pieces to Gabe who nailed them up.
Note that we left one side lower than the back side. This just makes it easier to get stuff out of them. Brooke and Alex are usually involved in loading and unloading these boxes as they are the ones that gather up the loose ends and carry in the firewood each evening.
Bibbyman,
Those boxes that Mary made are just like those that used by most of the mills around here. They're great for catching scrap wood and carrying it around with the high lift. Also, when selling firewood the customer has to take what's in the box and can't pick the cream off a big pile.
Frickman,
I think it was Mary and the girls that Bibb was pointing out as 'handy things around the mill' :D :D
Bro. Noble, I don't know if you're wise beyond your years or in spite of you're years. smiley_headscratch
But they are handy. Mary either inspires or makes the girls handy. They're not going to turn out to be useless people or someone just trained to do one thing in life.
Here's plans for Bibby's and Mary's sawhorses. They correct Bibby?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/bibby%20sawhorse.jpg)
A pdf is attached below.
HEY! Thats great!
Just curious - what is the backstop used for? ???
Jim
Quote from: jrokusek on December 02, 2005, 01:09:53 PM
Just curious - what is the backstop used for? ???
Jim
Looks great Gilman! 8) What CAD system did you use to draw it up.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/wssawhorse03.jpg)
The back stops are Mary's idea. She likes to make her stacks with one side and one end neat and square. I tell people she's an accountant by birth!
The only change I could recomend is to use a wider board on the bottom runner brace. We've had a little problem with them racking when you run into a stack a little too hard with the loader when picking the bundle up. Guess who's REAL CAREFUL and never bumps the stack and who's not. ::)
I made a couple of sets of them back in the spring, HANDY, HANDY, HANDY.
Solidworks, spendy but worth it if you need to use CAD for a living. It's a great software, I just don't like the $1500 annual maintenance.
Bibby, I'm guessing you might need two more boards added. Heck, I bet Mary doesn't even need to nail hers together.
Below is a forklift friendlier version.
Hey that pdf is pretty cool.
Hey Gilman, can I have permission to print it out?
I like the angled board added to help fight racking. I'd probably put one on one side going low to high and then high to low on the other. Don't know if it'd really make any difference strength wise, just thought it may.
I printed out a copy and showed Mary. She caught a deviation from her design right off. The lower 1x4s and the end plates are raised 2" up from the ground on her design. If they are all the way down as drawn, they won't set well on uneven ground. The six legs tend to find their own level.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/wssawhorse01.jpg)
It's hard to see the legs sticking below the brace boards while it's setting here in the grass - but they do.
Riles, thanks for asking, but anyone can print em out if they want. It's Jeff's drawing now.
Thanks Bibby, Third time's the charm?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/bibby%20sawhorse%7E0.jpg)
I mounted both of the braces in the same direction to give the most support if pushed on from the front. Clear as mud? If it was going to be pushing on it from both ends, I'd cross the braces like you mentioned.
Below is version 3.01
AaaH! That'll work.
But we lift from the support side. I'll run this one by the boss (in the morning) and get her to sighn off on the project. :D
Sawhorse...couldn't get along without em in the shop. Yet for eleven years been messing around with make shift messes at the mill. Musta wasted zillion hours moving lumber around and restacking. :-[
Going to make me a set of Pro-Sawyer Mary's sawhorses. Might have to get her autograph on one. 8)
Really like the back support idea...got to thinking with my loader might be easier for me if I made the back support swivel 90 degrees after I get the stack built. Just put one 1/2" lag bolt in with a washer. Would that work? :-\
And thanks to Gilman with the cool set of plans...now I don't even have to think to build it. 8)
Question for the computer litterate. Acrobat has a pop up that says "unable to create the font 'WQBJOPO+TTEB279DOtOO' Some characters may not display or print correctly."
Huh ???
Will
Can you still view the document? Or will it just give the error and not open?
Either way, I really couldn't help. I have no idea how to fix that problem. Try calling Jeff at home, say 11:00 pm'ish ;D
YOU NEED TO DOWNLOAD THE LATEST VERSION OF ACROBAT, THE PDF READER.
Sorry about yelling, just too lazy to retype it ;) :)
The doc opens but there is no text, just drawings.
Will
Wiam,
If you can't get your Adobe to work, you can get a free drawing viewer from www.solidworks.com (http://www.solidworks.com) and download e-drawings.
direct link to drawing viewer is http://www.solidworks.com/pages/products/edrawings/eDrawings.html
Below is the drawing in edrawing format.
Oops, I lie, I can't upload a file with that extension.
I renamed the file extension to "txt" to view it, download, save and rename the "txt" extension to "edrw"
DanG! not so easy with XP, oh how I love how software developers make things "Easier." To rename an extension in XP you will have to download and save the file to an easy to find location on your computer. Go to you cmd window ([Windows Start] [Run] cmd [Enter])
type cd followed by the directory you want to go to then hit retrun. Once to the directory you have the saved file type
ren *.txt *.edrw
that will rename the extension for you. Make sure you don't have any other .txt files in that folder.
Thanks guys. It took over 2 hrs to download the update to Acrobat 7.0 last night, but now I can see dimensions on the bibbyhorse. 8) 8)
Will
Prosawer Mary here are the photos of the stake making jig the JR was
telling you about. We finily has a good day to set the jig up and take a
few photos. You will see that we used a platic bottle to keep the chips
off the stakes from gitting under the guide roller. The firs time we use
the jig the chips would git under it and the blade would jump off the
wheels.
Sawwood
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10176/PC030049.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10176/PC030054.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10176/PC030056.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10176/PC030061.JPG)
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This is how I sharpen stakes.
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I clamp a 2x6 flat with one on edge next to it. Run the saw up to the one on edge. Blade height needs to be just above center of stake. I have gotten so I can hold the stake stiff arm at the same level on each side and slide it across the saw. For me this worked quicker than clamping groups of stakes. I have a short clip I can email if anyone is interested just im me.
Will
I bought a 2nd water bottle from WM. Well worth the 15.00. If I need to run water on Full I can do it all day without running out.
Little tweak here...little tweak there equals few more bf/hr, also little less tired at the end of the day. :)
Made few adjustments...my tractor will only lift about 300 BF and my forks are short so made them a little different. Attached the back strap with a tarp strap so I could remove them when it is time to move a bundle. Pickup the bundles and put em on the trailer. All I have to do is strap the bundles to the trailer bunks.
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The boss took a look and suggested I make a second set for the boards that will get an end trim for grade. Another couple of bf/hr??
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Set them up right behind the mill.
Thanks for the idea Bibby...you have to put on the sun tan lotion today? :D
You're welcome. I just put the idea in the Forum - Mary is the one that made the first pair.
It was a nice day. Every day like this in winter is a gift.
We worked all day and didn't get much done! We cleaned out from under the mill and that took some time. While I had the bucket on I raked the ruts down on the log lot then spred some gravel where the mud was sticking through. By then a customer showed up to pick up his lumber. We had to visit. He only left when two more PUs pulled in. They were just picking up slabs but left us some honey. As soon as they left, a tractor trailer load of logs came in and had to be unloaded. He was taking another load out so he had to be re-loaded. By then two more customers showed up - bought some dry lumber and got some slab firewood. Then another customer showed up to dump off a load of cedar to be squared up. He's goning to be back with a dump truck load of oak - maybe today.
We only got about 300 bf of 8/4 walnut sawn. Some days are like that.
Bibby, just gotta say thanks for the info, and especially the pictures, of those large wooden crates. I always wanted to make something like that, but just never thought about it enough to actually make one ::) I was never exactly sure how to tie everything together. Two weekends ago I made one (in the middle of a snow squall), 'cept I made it 48" deep since that's how long my forks are (although I think it's going to be tough reaching back there :-\ The next morning I went out and set it next to where I have been cutting and splitting my firewood. I cut all of my own firewood at 20", but I end up with a lot of short pieces from the ends of logs and slabs. Didn't take me much more than half an hour to fill that box up, and it will stay full until I burn those short pieces next year. So, I made two more boxes that same day. I had some knarly hybrid poplar that I didn't know what to do with anyway...some of it I already cut into 5' pieces and dumped up by the fire pit. Yanked them back out and milled away. I used 4x6's for the bottom pieces, 6/4 lumber for the deck, 2x4's for the corners, and 5/4 lumber for the sides. Even if they only last a few years they'll make better use as crates than a bonfire :)
Quote from: ohsoloco on January 20, 2006, 10:15:09 PM
Bibby, just gotta say thanks for the info,
You're welcome - I'll tell Mary as she's the one that built the first one. ;)
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Store brand generic for "Pam" cooking spray.
Visiting woodworker while back said he used it as a lubricate on any of his machines that had cranks, because it doesn't attract sawdust. So...I thought I would give it a try on the acme thread rods on my four poster. Works great...lasts long time, lubes well, not very expensive, and doesn't get all gunky with sawdust. I've used WD-40, ATF, bicycle chain lubricate, and some graphite based products. All had some kind of drawback. The cooking spray label says it's soybean oil.
Logger dropped by the mill this morning. He saw the cooking spray cans and smelled the aroma of freshly sawn black locust. Accused me of baking cinnamon cookies instead of making boards. When he left he mentioned even though my mill is not orange it is the best smelling mill in seven states. :)
That's a good idea, Larry. I have some spray wax stuff that drys, lubricates and doesn't attract dust. Still trying it on different things...
My handy thing is a very large C-clamp. I love clamps ;D
My mill has no stop on one side, the cam style dogs drop when bumped and turning big logs can be scary so I put this clamp on the rail and there is less chance of the log escaping.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/jmhandybigclampOP.jpg)
We're often sawing out big timbers for various reasons. We normally just saw them one at a time and take them off the mill with the Terex. We were thinking about sawing out some RR ties and figured we'd need a better way to handle these. Also sometimes it's nice to have a way to kick a junk cant off the mill besides hacking it up and pitching it off.
A couple of weekend's back I decided to experiment with some 10' sections of roller skate track we had in the bone yard. I just kind off threw this up to see how it'd work. Even then it took me one afternoon and the next day. I know. I'm slow.
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Looking in the south end of the mill. There is about a 3' gap between the sections to aid in getting around the mill and to the 'frig'.
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Looking out the south end of the mill.
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The down rollers before I put kull cants under the lower end. With this amout of slope a tie will roll about 20 feet down the hill. :o
It works pretty slick. I can raise the toe boards and push a cant down the track with little effort. There is only an inch or so drop – not enough for the cant to go off down the track with just gravity.
I've thought about adding a kicker to the last section but after cutting some RR ties I've found it works well to push a tie on the last set of rollers and then "work it over". That is, trim it and take off any bark, etc. If I send the tie down the track on it's 7" side and 9" side up and down, I can easily tump the tie over on the down rollers.
I've since propped up the ends of the down rollers with a couple of cull cants. This way I can park the Terex there and slide down four ties onto the forks. I can (I think) lower the forks and stack the next layer and so on.
I'll get out after while and take a picture of the bracket I made to rest the skate track on the end of the mill and the modified output area.
A few more pictures and details.
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I had to cut a notch in the skate track frame to fit over the tail light guard. So I went ahead and made a bracket to support the track and to hold it against the mill.
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Here is another view of just the bracket. It's bolted on where I think the bed extension is normally bolted on. Note that I took the turn signel off. I stuffed it up inside the frame rail.
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Here we're looking down the ramp to the Terex. Note the use of poly banding to hold the down ramps up against the other ramp. It's just a test. It may even last!
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Another view from outside. I think I can place the forkes so it'll load a layer and then lower them for the next and so on. Thus the ties will be pretty much self-stacking. At least I'm thinking they will.
That's a DanG neat setup, Bibby! 8) 8) It oughta work out just fine.
My handy thing of the day is a lot simpler and cheaper. It is a plain ol' everyday toilet bowl brush. :D They are great for cleaning sawdust and dirt from all the little nooks and crannies on the mill. The long handle lets you get into places near the blade without nicking your hands, and you can hardly damage anything with it, either. I keep one at the mill all the time. The most usage it gets is cleaning the sawdust from around the fuel filler cap before opening it.
I keep a couple around the shop, too. It works good for cleaning up the planer and table saw. Also, when working under a vehicle, you can use it to remove some of the sand and stuff that tends to fall into your face.
I didn't have the camera to capture the moment but yesterday afternoon Mary used the outfeed rollers for the first time. I watched as she aligned the 6x6 and, with some hesitation, tipped it over on the down rollers. You could see the anticipation build on her face as the 6x6 sped down the rollers, onto the forks and bumped nicely against the back board of the forks. A satisfied smile broke on her face. (Like – "Humph! It works!)
Later, with the first layer filled, she had about the same reaction when the next 6x6 down the ramps slipped nicely over the first and stacked itself neatly in place. She turned and caught me watching and gave me a big cheesy grin. ;D
I guess I did good.smiley_thumbsup
Great Bibby
I take it Mary is easy to please. :)
It really feels good when the recipient of your ingenuity gives you a big cheesy grin! Good stroke, Bibbyman! 8) 8)
Is the poly banding holding up ok, or are ya gonna upgrade to duct tape? ;D
Quote from: DanG on October 07, 2006, 11:52:31 PM
Is the poly banding holding up ok, or are ya gonna upgrade to duct tape? ;D
The poly banding is nearing the 100 cycle test point and still holding fine. I think we'll go for a 1,000.
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When we rig something up for test and it works, we tend to leave it. Note the black rectangle floating in the upper left center of the above picture. It's a 2 gallon jug of oil about half full hanging on the end of a cloths line that's ran over a pulley on a rafter and back down to the middle of mill's power cord. It keeps enough lift on the middle of the cord to keep the droop up out of the way. It was only a test back in January of 2002 when we installed the mill. We bump or heads on it a hundred times a day and curse it a little but we've never taken time to set it up better. Some day it'll go "ka-thump" and we'll have to fix it or do something better. :D
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Here is an idea I've been meaning to add for some time and just didn't get around to it.
Our nearest water source was some 150 feet away. It got to be a chore to carry the water jug off the mill over to it and fill it and bring it back. We had an extra stock tank - maybe 100 gallons - that we put on an old bulk gas tank stand about head high.
The gutter on the front side of the mill keeps it full. Even a .1" of rain will usually fill it up. There is an overflow that goes down to a drain pipe buried under ground that takes off excess.
In the winter we drop in a stock tank water heater (note in right corner). Keeps it nice and un-froze. In the winter, we also have to remember to let the garden hose down so it will drain – else it'll be froze.
Something to watch for at an auction or something Bibby, is a ball bering roller table.
You can push things in any direction on them and you could replace the last set of skates with it.
It would make kicking the ties off sideways really, really easy. ;)
Quote from: Furby on December 04, 2006, 10:25:44 PM
Something to watch for at an auction or something Bibby, is a ball bering roller table.
You can push things in any direction on them and you could replace the last set of skates with it.
It would make kicking the ties off sideways really, really easy. ;)
Maybe too easy.. We use that last section to clean up the tie - trim ends as neede, knock off any bark, etc. I've learned to finish them up on the mill with any bark edges up and or to put them on the 7" face. That way when they're ready to push off, they just take a little tip and down they go. If they have to be turned over, It takes only a little effort to pull it twords me and then use my handy dandy 24" LogRite mill special to tump them over.
My first thought was to mod in some kickers. But this works so well the way it is, I've abandoned that idea.
QuoteA couple of weekend's back I decided to experiment with some 10' sections of roller skate track we had in the bone yard. I just kind off threw this up to see how it'd work. Even then it took me one afternoon and the next day. I know. I'm slow.
I wish I had a couple of those roller tables. Sure would make things easier.
Bibby, if you haven't done it yet, I'd add a few angle braces to those wood frames you used for your "experiment". If they end up hanging around for a while it could keep you from being surprised when they decide to fold up on you. :o
Quote from: DR_Buck on December 05, 2006, 08:32:29 AM
Bibby, if you haven't done it yet, I'd add a few angle braces to those wood frames you used for your "experiment". If they end up hanging around for a while it could keep you from being surprised when they decide to fold up on you. :o
Good suggestion... Know where I could find a couple of scrap 1x6s?
See the thread above on "Home Depot prices!" ;D
Best thing I found to have around my mill is my dog. He just recently pointed out a coiled up coperhead that i didn't even notice. He's also good a fetching small chuck that fly of the mill amd putting them in a pile. He aint work a hoot is he eyes a cat though.
Bibby,
I like the stock tank / tank heater idea. But a quick question: How do you keep the lube system from freezin' up over night with straight water ?
Obvious reason for asking is a straight diet of -20F windshield fluid is getting into my pocket sawing thick oak on the new mill.
Warren
Quote from: Warren on December 07, 2006, 07:32:39 PM
Bibby,
I like the stock tank / tank heater idea. But a quick question: How do you keep the lube system from freezin' up over night with straight water ?
Obvious reason for asking is a straight diet of -20F windshield fluid is getting into my pocket sawing thick oak on the new mill.
Warren
Like most everyone else - I bring the tank off the mill into the house and blow out the line on the mill.
In freezing weather we still use windshield washer fluid mixed as needed with water.
But probably 300 days a year it's above freezing durring the day or so cold we don't saw so the water & soap mix just works fine.
Bibby,
Thanks for the quick response. 9 F in the morning. I've have an opportunity to try that tomorrow.
Warren
I just put water in my lube tank and let the DanG thing freeze. Until it thaws out I use a quart squirt bottle and squirt water on the blade as needed :)
Quote from: Bro. Noble on December 07, 2006, 09:19:07 PM
I just put water in my lube tank and let the DanG thing freeze. Until it thaws out I use a quart squirt bottle and squirt water on the blade as needed :)
I'd give that a try but it'd a little hard to do from the Command Control station. I don't think I could talk Mary into keeping the blade lubed AND pull boards and slabs. ;D
Best thing I've found to have around the mill is my dog. He loves the mill and likes to lay down and watch. When I take a break he'll come over and sit with me. He also warned me of a coiled up copperhead that I came real close to grabbing over the summer :o good boy ;D
Someone once said a dog is a man's best friend, I don't know about all that but he sure is cool to have around :).
I put my new "Mill Special" from Logrite to work for the first time today. :)
It's definately made the top of my list.
The handiest thing I have around my mill is my digital camera, because when I need to ask you guys, and gals, a question about something I am perplexed on, all I gotta do is post a picture and say " . . how do I fix THIS problem . . ?" Saves me a bunch of typing. 8)
Update on our use of the skate roller sections...
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I was sawing cedar 6x6s alone yesterday. I had the skate roller sections set up so I started pushing the finished 6x6s down the track. I could get four sawn before stopping to unload and clean up my edging boards. When the 6x6 was done, I'd raise the back roller toe board about an inch above deck height and use the sawhead to push the 6x6 down onto and down the rollers. CAUTION, Wood-Mizer does not recomend you use the blade for a pusher. It's taking a chance and can't be good on blade or rollers. But I took that chance with these cedar 6x6s as they didn't weigh very much.
The big problem is when the 6x6 gets to about the tipping point crossing the roller toe board. It tends to want to pry up on the blade. I relived this strain by stopping for a second and letting the 6x6 tip over the other way. Then I continue on pushing.
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I used the added flexability of the Terex shooting boom to reach over the down rollers on our cant outfeed system. I didn't want to subject the cedar to the banging they'd get if I just let them roll down and onto the forks like I do oak blocking and RR ties.
Worked pretty good out for me! 8)
Quote
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Overall picture of dust collector tube mounting.
Hey Bibby...... What's that fuel tank for? I thought this was an electric mill ???
Quote from: DR_Buck on July 14, 2007, 08:24:03 PM
Quote
(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/DustCollectVIIa.JPG)
Overall picture of dust collector tube mounting.
Hey Bibby...... What's that fuel tank for? I thought this was an electric mill ???
Pretty sharp eye there DR. :o
The fuel tank is for the Onan engine mounted to the right. This was on our first mill way back in 1994. We sold it late in January of 2002 just a couple of days before our new LT40HDE25 Super came in.
Hey guys,
Thanks for reminding me that I have one of the old hookaroons laying at the mill that was my grandfathers I think I will put a handle in tomorrow. 8)
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Mary's been box building again. We built a number of boxes about 3'deep, 3' wide by 5' long and they worked great. But we wanted something that would be easy for a customer to see that they were getting a measured 1/2 cord of firewood.
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These boxes are 4' cube (inside) and hold 1/2 cord of firewood. We figure if we deliver, we can load the boxes face to face on the flat bed.
The bases are 3x4 with the 4" way standing up. The deck is our standard 2x sawn to 1-5/8" thick. The uprights are 2x4 (back) and 2x6 (sides). The lining boards are 1x6 or whatever we had. I was all made from odds and ends.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wsmaryfirewoodbox20080903.JPG)
Here is the first box filled. Son Gabe ran the Blockbuster while Mary and I nailed.
Bibby,
I assume if you deliver the wood, you take the box back with you?
-Norm.
Quote from: StorminN on September 08, 2008, 07:04:21 PM
Bibby,
I assume if you deliver the wood, you take the box back with you?
-Norm.
We only have a couple of customers that we deliver to. We unload for them as they can't. Yea, we put too much time into making these to be a one-way contaner.
What I'm expecting is to fill the boxes and then customers can load from a box into their PU.
As SCSawyer was saying a hookaroon/pickaroon is handy around the mill,I keep one in the back of my truck to pull whatever out.I make mine from old picks I get for free or next to nothing at yard sales.Cut one pick end off with the torch rough shape and shorten the outher side finish on an anvel and sharpen.You won't pull off the head because of the tapered handle.A pirimid shaped point seems to work best.If you like aluminum handled tools buy-em.Frank C.
I built six of these full cord containers this last month. All wood is 2" stock, screwed and bolted together. It allows me to stack them two high. I also deliver locally and all six will fit on my 8' x 24' flat bed trailer. When I get all six full I make a trip north to the city and deliver to a fire wood seller that then sells the wood in ¼ cords and delivers as well.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/137.jpg)
We give some thought to making a full cord box pretty much like the ones you've built. But I'm glad we went with the 1/2 cord because I don't think our loader would be able to lift and move a full cord and box of green oak. Our loader is rated at 5,500 lbs at the center of the forks.
What do you used to move a full cord? Got an idea of the total weight?
I have an older 8,000lb Hyster. It will handle two at a time, green.
Depending on what I am hauling, I have hit the scales at 10 ton with six cords of Oak, and Myrtlewood on the truck. Generally, about a ton per cord is what I expect with the softwoods.
I have considered half cord boxes and plan to put a couple together as well for those that stop in on the way back from the coast and do not want a full load.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/Fork_lift.jpg)
About 5400 -6000 lbs per cord for green oak, depending on moisture content and density.
Seems 6 full cords would be about 16-18 tons. ::) ::)
Backwoods sawyer...are you talking about a face cord, and not a full cord?
4'x4'x8' do you call it a full cord or a face cord?
Wow Bibbyman,
Pretty nice Box. ;)
Around here I just slap a couple nails is some junk lumber that won't sell.
Wha-la pallet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10103/FireWood_pallets.JPG)
We burn over 300,000 lbs of wood per year.
50,000 lbs or so gets put on pallets and staged out of the way.
Everything else gets hauled to the burners right off the sawmill.
There are 8 of these plastic tubs for scraps. The pallet is a 48"x56" just for reference.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10103/Firewood_Tub.JPG)
Plus we have 2 jumbo dump boxes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10103/Dump%20box.JPG)
Last year we had trouble getting to one of the burners because of snow drifts.
So this year we stacked 22,000 lbs right next to the buner. It gives us a 3 week cushion.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10103/FireWood_staging.JPG)
Each row is 3'wide 6' high 10' long
The more experienced I get at running a mill operation, I find the biggest challenge is moving material (logs, slabs, sawdust, lumber, firewood, products, etc.) and storage. It takes time to find what you need and to get it after you find it. The more often you have to move things, the more time and overhead it costs.
Organization and investment in things like these boxes sure pay off.
Long term goal:
Work smarter, not harder. 8)
Breathes there a bandmiller who has never needed to back the blade out of a cut?? Like when you hit nails, or heaven forbid, the backstop or log clamp? Cutting the slab or flitch off with a chainsaw sorta works but can get messy. For sumpthing so simple, this handy tool makes it fairly easy to back the blade out of the cut. Just a piece of an old blade with a handle attached. Shove it through the kerf behind the blade and rake the sawdust out of the kerf. Using a wedge to open the kerf a little helps. Note the direction of the teeth. it cuts on the pull stroke.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/kerf_saw2.jpg)
Neat...could do the same thing..old section of blade in a homemade bowsaw frame...
yep, I carry one of them around with me, they are handy when the kerf is full of dust and you need to back out
Wouldn't that tool also work as a hookaroon? Maybe it would work better to move small stuff, with most of the teeth removed.
Use it with small stuff, for the big stuff, use the real thing!
How did you make the holes through it to attach the handle, carbide bit?
I used to keep pieces of broken blade on my truck for just such purposes. I didn't take the time to put a handle on them, just had a place where I threw pieces 8" to 10". They don't take much room that way.
I did put holes in old pieces of bands when makeing knives. They weren't pretty knives, just used for filleting, boning, skinning and such. The preferred tool was a side grinder. I would grind a spot until it was mostly through and turned blue on the other side. Then I would turn it over and grind the blue spot. Even if the hole never made it all the way through, the metal would become soft enough that I could drive a nail through it or drill it. My handles were just nails driven through the wood and the metal and bradded on the other side of the handle like a rivet. A small ball peen hammer makes them look pretty good.
I also got tired of ruining my pocket knife to clean a running blade. I know it isn't the safest thing to do, but I did it. I started making little knives (scrapers) with long handles so that I could reach the running band from the back side, away from the teeth, and scrape off pine resin that had built up. Sometimes the running water lube needed some help. It makes it a safer procedure when the blade is in a log and you are scraping the short side of the band, and you are accessing it from the operators side of the head.
Quote from: Chuck White on January 09, 2009, 12:02:01 PM
How did you make the holes through it to attach the handle, carbide bit?
I drilled the holes using a drill press and one of them super-duper bad dog bits..Cut a bandsaw blade like butter. The handle is a chunk of ash I turned on the lathe. Got tired of tearing up my hands trying to use just a hunk of broken blade.
You could chuck up a 20 penny nail in a drill press and use friction to anneal the metal in that spot. Spin it fast enough and it will go right through. Joe
I think I just drilled it ??? I may have clamped it between two peices of wood, I dont'remember
I've made a coule of knives from broken blades. I just drilled them on a drill press. no special bit to my recollect.
What length is that? 24'
To long and it can be awkward to get in around the head. To short and you would have to try to come in from the backside and it could be too tight to get right up behind the saw.
Tom. Glad to hear I am not the only one that has worn out knives cleaning the blade from the backside. Just keep the tip out of the gullet and it works better then any other way I have found to get the pitch build up off the saw. For cleaning the wheels, it is best to do it with the band removed.
I wouldn't be surprised that most of us have cleaned a blade with a knife while the mill is running!
Myself, once in a while I'll clean one with a putty knife.
You do have to stay on your toes while doing this, because disaster "could" strike in an instant!
I think I may make myself a longer "blade scraper" out of a broken band!
I thought that the blades were "high carbon" and would require a special hard bit to drill through them.
But, now I know, thanks!
I never clean a blade when its running !
My Father-In-Law lost an arm on a circle mill because someone started the mill without sounding the alarm, so never clean a moving blade ,it is not worth the time saved ,You can't grow another hand or arm >:(
Quote from: Papa1stuff on January 10, 2009, 11:56:06 AM
I never clean a blade when its running !
My Father-In-Law lost an arm on a circle mill because someone started the mill without sounding the alarm, so never clean a moving blade ,it is not worth the time saved ,You can't grow another hand or arm >:(
As Buckwheat said, "Me too neither!"
Just yesterday I did a stupid thing. We broke a blade and started to change it. Like often happens, the idle wheel was still spinning. It had run down quite a bit but I was in a hurry to get it to stop so I put the palm of my hand on the hub to break it. For some dumb reason, I let my fingers pull in a little and they caught the spokes of the wheel. They didn't' get tangled in but it bumped them up pretty hard. Gave me a "hurts donut", don't you know.
QuoteI also got tired of ruining my pocket knife to clean a running blade. I know it isn't the safest thing to do, but I did it. I started making little knives (scrapers) with long handles so that I could reach the running band from the back side, away from the teeth, and scrape off pine resin that had built up. Sometimes the running water lube needed some help. It makes it a safer procedure when the blade is in a log and you are scraping the short side of the band, and you are accessing it from the operators side of the head.
I don't clean nothin nowhere nohow when anything is running, turning or moving! I've always been 'scared' of power tools and I have lots of them. Being scared keeps me on my toes. I almost lost a finger a little over a year ago on a hydraulic winch by not paying attention for just 1/2 a second. smiley_carpenter_hit_thumb Seven stitches to sew it back on and a long recovery. It still hurts like H#$# when it's cold. If any body parts come off on the sawmill blade they're most likely not going to be put back on.
Not to signal out any one person, but it's the few that do unsafe (read that as stupid) things around moving equipment are the one that give sawmills the bad rap with the insurance companies.
When we shut down for the day we clean the dust from our rotochopper, and we have to get in the belly or hopper and clean all the mulch out from there also. I do not attempt to start cleaning until the rotor is completely stopped. On estick that could be left in between the screen and the rotor could cause major damage to one of us.
Just like spinning blades, I always told the hired help and any newbies to not reach in unless they can count individual teeth one a blade or rotor.
Quote....to not reach in unless they can count individual teeth one a blade or rotor.
That would be difficult for some of us slow people. ;)
PM...I think that's the point...
This is not really a modification, but a tip which will make life easier. ;)
Maybe there are enough portable WM owners on here who experience the problem with the "fender holders" filling with sawdust, etc. which must be removed before the fender will slide into the slot.
I just stick a plastic wedge into the slot after removing the fender. Now your fender slot doesn't fill up, and you have a wedge handy when you need to lift a slab/board before backing a band out of a cut.
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Handiest thing around my mill is HELP :D :D :D Unless the Boys want some lumber they can become real Scarce Fast :o :o :o
I'm bringing this topic just in case there are some new members that have not seen it. Got lots of handy things around the mill. Maybe we can get some more.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22539/rps20121006_130201_272.jpg) I picked up this handy hook at the local husky saw shop awhile back and have given it a good field test. It is very helpful sliding off the slabs especially the heavy tappered end.
The Logrite hookaroon does that job well too. Just gives a bit more reach.
Handy things?
Chains, nylon tow strap, come-along(s), crowbars, handsaw, wood "shims" of various thicknesses, Gatorade, socket set, hatchet, C-clamps, band-aids............a swear-jar (to drop coins in everytime you say DANG!!!!) :D
Other than the normal tools, my "end tongs" are probably the handiest. They work quite well helping to adjust stubborn logs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0283.JPG)
Made from broken logging tongs.
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Unloading logs.
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Adjusting logs on the sawmill using the side support hydraulics.
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Moving logs using the sawmill log clamp hydraulics.
This clamp on spreader bar with a eyelet is handy for attatching log tongs and or chains and straps helpful unloading customers trucks and trailers.
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Quote from: pineywoods on January 08, 2009, 08:03:48 PM
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PW, I made one today. Thanks for your input.
Bob
Quite a few years ago we started using Log Pile Back Stops.
The first one was actually from a heavy duty cantilever rack system.
Got that for free just to make it go away.
The next two were built by a local weld shop because he had a tall web eye beam he split at an angle for the up rights.
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All three work great. But there are times it would be nice to have a couple more.
We provide blocking and trailer planks to a Demolition Contractor who has a pile of eye beams.
Called him and put in a request for a 7" x 14" x 24' . Sure enough he had one.
Just a seven mile drive and a hundred dollars and it was ours.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10103/TwoBrosWelding_020.jpg)
This time all the labor was done in house by our staff welders.
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How doo you get the logs out once you get them in?
Front load.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10103/LogStops.jpg)
First in is last out.
Oh, now I see. One to a pile. I was hooked on the first set that were like bookends.
Bookends would be sweet if we had a Log Truck ;D
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In September of 2006 I cobbled up some framework to try out skate rollers. We've be using and repairing it ever since. Today we upgraded. Farmer friends have a well equipped metal fab shop built the frame for us.
Mary's happy. Now on to the next thing on her list .
Bibby, how do you like the skate rollers? I have an opportunity to buy some but I am hesitant. Any issues with lumber catching or not rolling correctly?
Quote from: OneWithWood on April 13, 2013, 07:28:46 PM
Bibby, how do you like the skate rollers? I have an opportunity to buy some but I am hesitant. Any issues with lumber catching or not rolling correctly?
We use them for beams and cants and they work fine. The advantage is one thing can be on one side of the rollers and another thing can be rolled beside or past. The rollers are staggered so it'd take something pretty short and narrow to fall between the rollers.
Good point, thanks. I will take another look at them.
Several of you have posted that you use pickaroons/hookaroons around the mill. Almost every demonstration or explanation that I find of the things are around firewood. So what are you using them for? Just for grabbing slabs off the log or for sliding lumber off when it's cut or what?
And how long and what style of one are you using? The list at Peavey is mind-boggling long!
We're used to using a tractor, peavey, and a can't hook for moving the logs and a good pair of gloves for grabbing slabs and lumber. I like having a strong back, but anything to save a little time and pain is welcome!
They extend your reach, and the list at LogRite isn't very long. :)
The hookaroon saves a lot of wear and tear on the gloves.
Use of them will just depend on your needs.
I will eventually have a pickaroon or a hookaroon for my mill.
Where I would most likely use it, would be to pull flitches to be edged from the loading arms.
Seems the last couple are just out of reach. :-\
Cant hooks are used to roll logs to the mill and occasionally on the mill. Hookaroon is used to offload slabs and bad flitches.
Quote from: OneWithWood on April 16, 2013, 12:11:31 PM
Cant hooks are used to roll logs to the mill and occasionally on the mill. Hookaroon is used to offload slabs and bad flitches.
Where did you find your hookaroon?
Logrite, sponsor and can be seen in left column. ;) Made in America!
Quote from: beenthere on April 16, 2013, 01:41:49 PM
Logrite, sponsor and can be seen in left column. ;) Made in America!
What he said! 8)
Yep. Logrite. Great tools, great people!
I got a Logrite Hookaroon. Real handy tool. It lives in the back of my truck when I'm not sawing. Nothing is out of reach anymore!
Are the log stops up?
I keep my console on the log loader side of the mill. As far from the sawdust as possible. Directly behind the mill is a short roller table. To see the log stops I have to do a quick little dance to the off side. But no more...the See All mirror knows.
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I've tried a couple little things, but so far I'm most happy with this mirror. It's saved me a few steps and prevented me from trying to sawed the DanG stops off.
I don't have a problem seeing the back supports (as Wood-Mizer calls them), but I do have a problem on the clamp and turrer side. I'll have to think about where a mirror could be mounted.
I could have used a mirror like that, today :-\.
Hit a stop did ya?
You know that is the mark of a pro sawyer :)
I HIT one :).
Quote from: WDH on May 28, 2013, 08:17:22 PM
I HIT one :).
Did it bleed much Orange Juice? ;D
With a Razor-Top blade :).
Quote from: WDH on May 28, 2013, 09:25:43 PMWith a Razor-Top blade :).
That is a new one on me.
That'd be Razor-Tip, aka, stellite. In short, a very expensive mistake.
By the way, stellite blades will not saw off the side stops. I tried it once, with a brand new out-of-the-box blade :(. Didn't get any further then I did with a plain ol' Double Hard.
I feel your pain.
Quote from: WDH on May 28, 2013, 09:25:43 PM
With a Razor-Top blade :).
Not any more, it ain't. :'(
It is now a razor-untipped blade :).
Yup, there is not much that you can do about those screw ups except to claim um, wear um and share um. ;D
Quote from: Larry on May 27, 2013, 03:38:52 PM
But no more...the See All mirror knows.
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That's pretty neat! Personally I would nerd-out and refer to as The Eye of Sauron. :)
We likes nerds :D
I am now building my first band saw mill ... After reading the last couple post I think I'm going to
make a carriage stop if the dogs are to high for the blade to clear. I'm thinking this should be easy to do.
If a adjustable stop arm was put right in front of the blade guide it would hit the dog before the blade.
If the stop hits the carriage will stop or push down the dogs. What ever take the least effort.
I made all my dogs lay down the same way the carriage travels.
Kbeitz, look on the EZ Boardwalk mills, they have them. It's a piece of square tubing that comes to a point that hangs below the plane of the blade and on the top of the stops there is a piece welded on that it catches onto. Pretty slick idea, for sure.
Quote from: justallan1 on April 30, 2015, 08:50:47 PM
Kbeitz, look on the EZ Boardwalk mills, they have them. It's a piece of square tubing that comes to a point that hangs below the plane of the blade and on the top of the stops there is a piece welded on that it catches onto. Pretty slick idea, for sure.
Thanks... I will check that out...