There are no sawblade guides on my old mill, it doesn't look like it ever had any, so I am starting from scratch making a set.
I have never run a saw so I don't know if I should make them double-lock-nutted so they never move again once I get them set OR a couple of big knurly knobs that I can tweak every other log.
How often do you set/reset your guides?
You set your guides whenever you need too. I reset mine today, and it was the first time in a week. Sometimes you can go for months, depending on what you're cutting and how good your saw is. Mine needs shanks and needs to be changed.
For saw guides, you should have a split guide. One for the outside of the saw, and one for the inside. They should have a knob of some type to adjust them. You use a jam nut so they don't walk on you after they're adjusted. It doesn't have to be that tight.
Guides should ride right below the shank, and never touching the shank. Too far away doesn't do you any good. Touching the shanks will cause heat and that ain't good.
Guides should be adjusted on a running saw. Extreme caution when doing this. You move the guides to where they are just about touching. You should see some daylight between the saw and the guide.
Guides are not meant to steer the saw. They are meant to avoid knot dodge.
Thanks Ron,
What's the first thing you usually notice when its time to reset them?
I presume they should be as close as possible to the toe of the headworks?
I have a cheater on my mill. Its a vertical edger. If the saw starts to lead out, then I'll get a line from the edger blades. If it leads in, then the edging strip is left on the board.
For a normal circle mill, if you saw is leading out, you will see a little black where the board has rubbed the saw. That means that your board side guide is probably off a little bit. The boards may be thin on the end.
If you are leading into the log, you leave a little bit of wood when you leave the cut. Your lumber will also be thicker and probably have a taper on the board. I'm assuming that the saw is sharp and the teeth are straight and in good condition. You can file lead into or out of a saw.
Saw guides are usually mounted on the husk on the front end of the saw. Normally, the headblocks have an arc on the bottom so they clear the saw guides. There was also a guide system that used 2 guides, one on the front and one on the back. Pacific Hoe still sells them. But, I never saw any mills use them.
Sprucegum
I have a saw guide left over from my old mill. It is in good shape. I would be willing to part with it. Send me a pm if you are interested.
Scott
Spruce, here's a photo of the guides on my home-built circular sawmill. They consist of a short length of pipe welded to a bolt. A short length of hardwood in the pipe serves as a replacable "friction" surface.
I might be able to get a better photo if I can figure out the photo upload procedure. ??? :D
Ed
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15717/Saw%20Guides.jpg)
That looks pretty straight forward Ed, thanks for the pic
And Welcome To The Forum 8) 8)
Ya got any more pictures of your mill?
I dont know if this old thread might help or not.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=505.msg5164#msg5164
Quote - "Ya got any more pictures of your mill?"
I uploaded a few more pics to my photo gallery.
Ed
Here's what my saw guides look like:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10011/sawguide.jpg)