Ok, guys I'm back with another question ???s.
Iv'e managed to saw a little over 2kbdf of
Pine in between the monsoons ..
Been a little frustratin at times,like sawin the stops on the
mill makes a funny sound and will not help the blade,(change blade)
to much lub.will slide the blade off the tires.(change blade).
if a log is not locked down good it will try to jump off the mill ..
bent blade (change the blade) so it goes.
sho would be nice to have them hydraulics . :'(
Oh yeah, the questions .. Had a guy bring over some pecan
he wants sawed.. Sawed about 400 bdf Sat. I'm a thinking
the blades I'm using on pine are not what I need for pecan.
At first, I thought dull blade. Not the case. I had to drop down
to a creep compared to sawing pine. If I tried to saw at the same rate as pine the little 20horses started gruntin..
Anyway,wanted to tap in to the vast expeirence here before I order blades. The blades I have are 144" 1 1/4" X 7/8" 90ss .042" reading this off the invoice ..Suffolk Machinery.
Help!
Thanks in advance for any help..
ps: noticed that a lot of post tend to wander toward food,
so as not to break tradition I like GRITZ ;D
I was hungry just reading the word "pecan" in the subject ;D I've never sawn pecan, but the hickory I cut (they're closely related...pecan is a type of hickory isn't it?) didn't give me much trouble, it just gummed up the blade more that oak does. I'm pretty sure I was using the exact blades you mention, 'cept they were a different brand.
Mmmmmm wish I had some pecan pie but I don't so I will have to settle for cookies after lunch.
After reading this post I now feel like some hickory sticks and beer aswell.
About the blades them the ones that I use the most but mine are made by Lennox. I get a very smooth cut from them but when I cut hard stuff the Lennox guy changed the set on a few blades. They cut fast but lots of sawdust and not such a smooth cut.
I guess for me it all depends on what the wood is for and who it's for, like some guys don't care if it looks rough.
Steve
I like Gritz and PeeCan pie too ;D
Pecan is hard to saw. If it's not fresh off of the stump it'll throw sparks. Left a little longer than that and it starts to rot (spalt) and softens some. It's still hard to saw.
I use a good bit of water on the blade when cutting it.
I use the same blade for it as I do on softwoods but have noticed that I do better with a less aggressive tooth. Since I don't cut too much of it I usually end up using a 12 degree rake and a 21 thou. set. If I cut a lot I think I would do better with a 10 degree rake, maybe less. I've never done too much experimenting with negative or little rake because I've not had any need for it. Basically though, the harder the wood the less aggressive the tooth and the softer the wood the more aggressive the tooth.
One thing I have found helpful. On my Woodmizer there are two 3-pulley sheaves to control speed. It's kinda like having "ranges" on your tractor as well as the gears. I run on the middle pulley when cutting some hardwoods to help keep a steady pressure on the blade rather than the "fast" pulley jamming it into the log. It makes it a lot easier to control but the return or gig back speed is lessened too. You just have to slow your self down if your going to use it. I have used the small pulley a few times when cutting real wide Live Oak. Sometimes you just can't go fast even if you want to.
DanG itall! I'm on the dead Doctor diet and this talk of Peecan by aint fun nor fare.
Ask Tom I can eat a whole one if allowed. ;D
Least ways you can say it right now, Jeff. You're comin' aroun' slowly but surely. :D
Shoot-fire. Y'all ain't et till ya had some of Grandmama's Karo-nut pie. It'll give ya at least 4 cavities with each sittin !! uuummmmmmmm ;D ;D :) :)
Best blade I have found so far for pecan is the Woodmizer Double Hard, 045, 8*hook, .019 set. A little pricy compared to Lennox Woodmaster but it cuts better and longer, so it about evens out. LeeB
here is a trick I use with my blades and sharpener. I buy standard woodmizer .045" that are set wide from the company I think .028" but am not sure. they cut soft wood very well out of the box, but are a little slow in hardwood. I use them and sharpen them once or twice with out setting them, and they come alive in hardwood. by not setting I believe they have a reduced set just right for hardwood. around the third or fourth use, I will set then sharpen putting them back to .028" and begin the softwood hardwood rotation. works for me.
Hickory and pecan like elm will seperate the men from the boys real quick. I use a WM 0.055 10 degree and do real well in it. Lots of water and do not go to slow and it will cut flat and true. The real green logs will have to be turned after about every cut or they will jump off the log. If the ends have been allowed to dry trim them off as they will take the tips off your teeth.
ARKANSAWYER