Is there any pluses/minuses to oiling (or other method) the posts and beams on your pine frame before putting it up ? I am in Maine as far as climate and it will be on a slab finished with exposed posts/beams that will be planed/chamfered.
If it makes sense to do it what method/products do you guys use ?
Thanks for all the help the people of this forum offer. It is priceless to someone like me with more enthusiasm than knowledge. My frame is planned and I am actively getting prices on it. My other home went under sales contract this week so I am starting my land search this weekend in the Wayne/Turner area here in Maine.
I designed and had my last home built 8 years ago and it was one of the most exciting things Ive ever done so my adrenaline is starting to rise. It will be fun and occasionally stressful and I cant wait !
Mark
Is oiling something I should be considering or is it unneccesary? Wondered if any of you have done it and why ? ???
Thanks Mark
Mark:
Yes I think that oiling the frame is very benifical for several reasons.
1. It protects the timber from "suntanning" and degrade from the elements, graying etc.
2. It "feeds" the wood.
3. It brings out the character and beauty of the timber.
In our shop we use Land Ark oil with UV protectant and mildecide. We also use their end sealer (beeswax) and seal each joint as they are cut (at the end of the day). We cut many frames of white pine and hemlock and these products have given us good results.
David
Quote from: EastMark on November 09, 2007, 06:53:11 AM
Is there any pluses/minuses to oiling (or other method) the posts and beams on your pine frame before putting it up ? I am in Maine as far as climate and it will be on a slab finished with exposed posts/beams that will be planed/chamfered.
.................
By exposed, do you mean to the weather? sun, etc.? Or exposed to the inside of the TF building, and roofed over?
I'd oil them, and likely I'd use Watco Danish oil...my favorite finish.. :) :) 8) Not for exposure to weather however.
maineframer,
Thanks for the response. Good info ! What application method works best for you ?
beenthere,
The frame wont be exposed to the weather but will be inside. How do you apply the oil you recommended ? It must eat it up pretty fast. Can it be sprayed with an airless sprayer like the way we did my freinds house ? That goes f a s t.
Mark
Either roll it on, dip the wood in it, or brush it on. I've not sprayed it on, but wouldn't hesitate to do it that way if the conditions would permit. The idea is to flood the surface for about 30 minutes. After first application, I wait 15 minutes, put some more on to catch the spots where it soaks in, and repeat at 30 minutes. Then let set for 30 minutes, and wipe off any excess. Apply another coat after 24 hours, or later if desired. For me, this Watco oil (which comes in natural or stained in a variety of tones) polymerizes faster than boiled linseed oil, and is workable to the touch soon after wiping down after 1 hour. Sometimes there are beads of oil that surface (especially on red oak) that need additional, but simple, wiping with a dry cloth.
Try some on some samples to see if it is what you want, but I find it very easy to work with. Just watch the rags after wiping up, as they will combust if left in a pile. Either stretch them out to dry, or burn them, or put them in a metal container.
Speaking of treating/oiling...anyone used Outlast Q8 Log Oil on an exterior ? Like it/Hate it ?
Thanks Mark
I have read or heard somewhere that oiling the fame before it is raised may make it more difficult/dangerous to raise, because surfaces become slippery.
Eastmark,
We apply the oil with a soft rag. As far as being dangerous/ slippery we haven't had any specific problems with that. We find that applying oil on the ground "on the bench" is far safer than the alternative 20-30 feet off the ground! :)
David Frankenfield