Those of you who use an ATV with a log arch, what ATV are you using, and what would you buy if starting over ?
Thanks,
Jim
How much starting over money do I have? :D
I have a Honda Rubicon with tracks. It's great. I've hauled a trailer that weighed 3500 pounds.
To me, the most important thing is a solid rear axle and low range.
I'd buy the same one again.
Honda. I have owned almost all the makes and My Honda has given me the least trouble. Probably have jinxed it now.
Stonebroke
Kubota 900 diesel, not even close.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11185/logarchi.jpg)
Honda Forman 400 all wheel drive all the time
Dakota
Hi Dakota,
I'm using a polaris 400 with the logrite fetching arch. The biggest log I'v hauled to dat has been an aspen log 18" on the small end and 14'6" long. According to the forum tool box the weight is about 1100 pounds. I've got a pretty good hill to climb and had no problems, the polaris has an automatic transmission and it shifted down and away we went. I tried a few dealers around my area, and the polaris guy seemed to want my business and wanted to take care of me so I bought the 400 from him used. I think it's like buying a saw, finding a dealer you can work with is 2/3rds the battle.
hope this helps,
Steve
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14420/back_to_the_mill.jpg)
ps, I've got a couple more pics of the arch in my gallery
I've got the Future Forestry Tractor arch. Hooked on a Honda Foreman 450 ES.
I move cherry in 20" x 10' range over slight grade when ground conditions are good.
In the snow on level ground I can move similar logs around the mill.
Best pulling atv I have ever used was the John Deer Buck. They were mfg by bombardier for JD. JD no longer sales them.
i've been using my 96 Polaris Xplorer 400 2 stroke...poor thing, i've hauled some big and long logs with it. 2 years ago i hauled a bunch of red spruce to make 8X8 for my camp and some pine logs. Last year 120 red/black spruce tree length. This i got to cut another 20 trees but i also need to cut 12 40ft purlins, that should be fun..probrably use my truck :D
The big need you need is low range and true 4x4, not limited slip on the front, you need something you can lock all 4 wheels like my polaris. I think most newer atv's can do that!
SBishop
I have a Polaris 800. I have a homemade logging arch. I have not used it to haul any really heavy logs, but I will. And when I do, I will take a few pics.
However, I would like to see those logging arches have BRAKES in them. Then, we could really haul logs!
N
Quote from: Nate Surveyor on March 01, 2008, 09:00:16 PM
However, I would like to see those logging arches have BRAKES in them. Then, we could really haul logs!
N
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12628/Skdder%20018.jpg)
Don't know what kind you built but if it is similar to this one I built no brakes are needed. I have skidded 21" x 10' straight down hill with no problems. The log will slide forward putting it flat on the ground to provide breaking. With one exception, and that being when the ground is frozen. I have never used it on a down grade with the ground frozen.
Another ATV to not over look for heavy pulling is the Polaris 6X6 ATV. Not the ranger.
You can get track kits that go over the rear tires. They will go thru alot of adverse terrain with little imprint.
And more important than what you hook your arch to, is where you hook it. I have seen too many people go over backwards trying to tow from the rear rack. :o
Dave
I've skidded logs on frozen ground using one of those plastic cones.
It passed me going down a short hill and the chain got wrapped around a track ...messy :o
I think a person might be wise to wrap a chain around the back of the log where it will contact the ground in that situation.
Or... have brakes on an arch :)
The horse loggers use that trick, a chain under the runner as a brake for the down hill runs. Same as putting the chain on the log I guess. Tim B.
Hi !!!!! I,ve used a Honda foreman 400 cc and some mini forwarder and also logging arch and took out more than 40,000 fb. Look in my link you'll see what I mean. Use an ATV with an axel. Always respect the capacity of your system. Good luck. Roger
If I wanted to just ride I would buy any kind,if I was going to work the heck out of it ,it would be a HONDA.half the price of a kabota.
I heard that the hood of a VW Bug on the front of a log will do instead of a plastic cone for skidding.
The polaris 6x6 does an amazing job. I have a homade arch, and it will do anything. I have been loaded coming through a swamp, and my buddy got stuck in front of me. I went off the trail to get around him, hooked on while still loaded, and pulled my buddies loaded suzuki out of the hole. THis took place about the first of January, so we where dealing with mud, snow, and ice conditions.
Howdy all!
I've got another ATV Logging thread going on the board, but I wanted to take a read and compliment all of you on your efforts. Obviously, all of you have put a great deal of thought into this -- really great work!
Dakota: That is one fine looking logging arch you've got there! Do you happen to have any more photos of it?
Happy Logging ... :)
I use a 375 Arctic Cat, automatic, 4WD, with a homemade trailer, works great.
Harvey,welcome to the forum.
I'd like to move this thread a bit away from specific brand/model recommendations and into what the most desirable features are to have on an ATV for logging use.
My sister and brother-in-law live on an island in New Hampshire, and have just started living there year round. Neither has ever owned an ATV and don't know much about it (although he is a genuine whiz at fixing things, engines, generators, all sorts of machinery). He has experience with a chainsaw and felling trees, but not skidding. They just want to pull in a few cords of firewood per year for personal use. The trails on the island are rough and rocky, but all the slopes are moderate. He'll be looking to pick something up used, and will probably make or scrounge an arch.
What I've gathered from comments so far in this thread:
Solid rear Axle (more description would be helpful here. Are you saying there is no differential? seems like that would make turning a problem. Or are you saying the axle stubs that come out of the differential should be solid, not hollow?)
Low Range
True 4x4 (not limited slip on front) -- want to be able to lock all four wheels
Anything else to add, or does anyone have any arguments with those points? Is there anything in particular to look for on the towing attach point? Preferred tires for rough rocky ground (mud is not much of a concern where they are)? I'm thinking the bigger the wheels the better, for the ground clearance and getting around over the rough rocky trails.
I'm thinking if he makes an arch, he should go with something like PawNature's, with the slider that picks up the logs. It seems like the self-braking action with one of these would be a nice safety feature, though maybe not absolutely necessary on their moderate slopes? Any down side to this type of arch over the ones which use a hand winch to lift the end of the log?
Thanks for any tips.
John Mc
I'll elaborate on the solid rear axel for you, it's like the back axel on a pick-up truck compared to a car. Only on an ATV the hitch is connected right to the axel so it's under the suspension. Most ATVs have permanently locked back axels which is why they chew up grass a bit.
One other thing is liquid cooled, not just oil cooled, you'll be going low speed and high RPM alot.
Most mid sized ATVs come with 25" tires standard but most will take atleast 26" (without rubbing the plastics) but you can get up to 30" I think, you'd need a lift kit for that. A bigger tire will take away power because of the extra weight and the change in drive ratio.
The other thing you asked about is the front locking diff. I haven't used one, I've been told when it's locked you can forget about steering. If it's not locking most will have a limited slip. But a winch will get you out of almost anything.
I was in the same position as you about a year ago, and I learned a lot. Any other questions, just ask.
good luck
Thanks, Night Raider.
The liquid cooled is a good tip. I hadn't thought of the effect of extended low speed operations.
As far as the front locking differential... I was only repeating what was mentioned earlier in this thread. There are few places on the island where he'd get stuck... it's fairly dry , well-drained soils. The main concern is pulling ability, and whether the locking front diff would be a necessity for operations on the rough, uneven ground (or pine needle covered slopes).
John Mc
Any comments on automatic vs manual transmission? He's not going to be going really hard-core with this... just a few cords a year skidded back to his house. He does want to have something that will hold up to this use. Price is an issue, which is why he's looking for a used one.
I'd reccomend manual, which is what I have, they are a bit cheaper and have a stronger more responsive drive train then an automatic, and you don't have to worry about smoking belts.
I think most of the major manufacturers today make good machines. If he is looking for used they are out there. He can find one with low hrs. that was adult owned. These machines can take alot as they are built for it. My buddy and I have the exact same machine except for one thing. Mine is an automatic, his manual. One would think the Automatic would break before a manual but that wasn't the case this time. :D He has had some problems with shifting. I love automatic. ;D Tell them to get at least the 500 or larger.
Plus I can change a belt if needed but I can't fix a transmission. (remember that commercial)
"I always wanted to fix transmichians." :D
Ground Clearance (Maximum) very important. You say it is rocky ground.
Differential Lock option 4x4.
Winch with moveable block to double pulling power.
Also a small snatch block and chain.
Also a winch on the rear of the machine.
Carrier of some kind on front and back for saw, gas, lunch, tools etc, prefer type with covers that will keep things dry in at least one box, one should be open for easy access to saw, tree bar, tongs etc when moving around cutting.
Hitch should be regular small truck receiver 2" type,mounted to the frame of the machine.
Heavy skid plate on the bottom of the machine. Some people replace the plastic one with a steel skid plate.
Boot protectors for axle joints.
Foot protection plates for the operator.
Water cooled.
At least 500 CC, large Agricultural type tires, Manual transmission.
Heavy Bumpers on front and rear for running into trees.
Backrest on saddle if you are older person.
Place for cell phone and first aid kit.
Strong arms and back for running in 4 wheel drive all the time at slow speed in tight spots.
I've seen a couple of recommendations now for 500cc. I can understand the need to go for the largest ATV you can afford (I've got a compact tractor and often wish I had something a bit bigger). Since he's looking for something used, I'm wondering if 500cc should be considered an absolute minimum, or could he go with something smaller if he were willing to gear down, go slow, and/or haul shorter length logs (most will be softwoods, so that helps on the weight a bit). If he ran across a 350 or 400cc for example which met all other requirements, should he just pass it by?
He's only looking to haul in 3 or 4 cords per year for personal use. Willing to spend some extra time doing it if it means saving some money.
Thanks again for all the great tips so far.
John Mc
I have a honda 400 foreman. Works great, but I think people mean that the bigger it is the less strain on it and the longer it will last.
Stonebroke
I'd say 400cc is the absolute min. that's the size they start making them for actually working.
I'd say that bigger is certainly better if the intent is to use it for skidding or forwarding logs and production is not the intent.
The bigger engines will provide more low speed torque. Also the bigger engines will come in a bigger overall package. if you're going to "skid" logs with an atv you need that low speed torque to be able to crawl thru the woods and you need some weight or mass to counter or handle the weight of the logs. My experience has been that most atvs are not geared low enough for my taste. when i'm in the woods with mine i spend most of the day in first and second gear. granted my timber land is very rugged terrain, but for working with one you need low speed crawling ability. the othe thing I absolutely love is a big basket ON THE FRONT ONLY. I can carry a whole bunch of tools on my foreman 500 this way and it provides some protection against rearing up when I'm pulling heavy loads or climbing steep trails. Be advised if you have never run a 4 wheeler do not try to learn on the job. These machines are very powerful and very heavy and will hurt you. I would not advise learning to operate one in the woods. The operational controls are very different from a car or truck and in an emergency situation you don't have the muscle memory and reactions until you gain considerable experience. I watched my dad run one up a tree a few months ago. :o Luckily only his pride was hurt. ;)
Dangerous, yeah. My son was headed for a drop off, turned the handlebars to the left, kept going straight--as the back wheels just pushed him that way. Luckily and skillfully, he jumped off just as the ATV went over, landing upsidedown. Could have been ouch. Just cost me a bit, kept the son.
Are you guys aware that steering on an atv is primarily accomplished by weighting the foot pedal or floorboard on the side that you want to turn toward? The handlebars are mostly just somewhere to hang your hands so your arms don`t get too tired or they can be used for leverage in conjunction with weighting the pedal.
My fourwheeler is a 98 Suzuki 500 liquid with full time fourwheel drive. It`s got good torque and it`s been stone reliable. They were never as popular as the Grizzley`s, Sportmans, or Rincons so you can get a good used one fairly cheap but if you do a little research you`ll find that they have ground clearance as good as any of that vintage and some of todays, they have a manual gear tranny, shaft drive, and a solid rear axle which is a plus in regard to durability and limited maintenance.
Quote from: jokers on July 21, 2008, 09:21:38 PM
My fourwheeler is a 98 Suzuki 500 liquid with full time fourwheel drive. It`s got good torque and it`s been stone reliable. They were never as popular as the Grizzley`s, Sportmans, or Rincons so you can get a good used one fairly cheap
Any idea what a decent used one would run?
It`s been a while since I looked at prices but there were a few in the local swap sheet for $2500 or less this spring John.
Go with an ATV in the 400-500 cc range especially if you are using an arch. You don't need anything bigger than that and in fact will find it counter productive if you get into the 600 cc or larger range. The guy that makes the arches will tell you this also. You don't need a big machine with and arch and you'll find the bigger machines cause more damage and are harder to steer and manuver in the woods when you're logging with an ATV. We've got a Suzuki 400 and that is all we need for an occassional stick of wood that needs moving. My brother used it very succesfully to log firewood until we got a 55 hp Kioti with a Fransgard winch. But in all honesty if you go above a 500 cc you'll end up regreting it eventually.