Hey Guys,
I was wondering what the practical difference is between the two sizes of bands? I looking at a norwood lumbermate with the 13hp engine, is one band better for this setup than the other?
Does the 1.5" cut through knots straighter? Less prone to cut wavy boards?. More sharpenings in a 1.5" than a 1.25"?
Thanks,
Ian
Hey Indy,
I'm just a hop, skip and a jump away from you in Madoc. If you don't mind I'd like to add to your question but with 2" blades. I'm thinking of keeping a stock of 1 1/2" with the 2" but would like to know the preferences as well. I was told the 1 1/2's would be better for hardwoods as I could get them a bit thicker steel than the 2".
If you are ever headed over this way, give me a call and stop in to chat and see the mill. I have one of Timberwolf's big bands. 613-921-7702
Isn't the 1-1/2" blade system only offered with the 20hp.?
The wider the blade the better it is controlled by the kerf and that, supposedly, makes it cut straighter. Going from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 is the most common and usually requires a change in guides.
2" blades are not as popular and I've been told that it is because you need a wider Wheel for a blade that wide. If you try to use a 2" band on a wheel that is for 1 1/2" then the blade begins to cup as it is pulled over the tires.
Now, I've not studied this and have run only 1 1/4 bands because, as I've said before, I try not to fix what ain't broke. But, I've heard of others who were well pleased with a wider band. Thicker bands on larger band wheels are supposed to give you better accuracy also. I just muddle along with my .042 inch and a halves. :-/
You're right in saying if it aint' broke don't fix it Tom. I'm going to look for thicker 2" blades. I have 1 1/2" wide wheels and may be a problem keeping 1 1/2 blades tracked so I don't lose the set on the teeth. Also the guides are 1 1/2" wide so I would have to get new guide rollers too. I seem to be having a difficult time finding someone to sell me 45 or 50 thou blades in 2". Most send me 32 or 35 thou. Reason being that the heavier steel, even on 24" wheels, they say will break early.
Has this ever been a problem with the 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 that you guys use that are over 40 thou thick?
Im a WM guy but I think its the same for any mill. What Ive found is a 1.5 blade seems to cut a bit straiter than a 1.25...."BUT"... the 1.5 seems to be much more finnicky about alignment. Where Ive notice the biggest difference is in the thickness of blades, .042 , .045, .055(nasty). The thicker, the straiter "BUT"... the thicker, the shorter lifespan. Also,I think the thicker blades need more homones to operate properly...you have to cut real fast as they are gonna break earlier. Just my opinions of couse :P ;D
Thanks for the info guys.
New_sawyer, I will make the trip out to your place sometime, it would be great to talk to some one about milling in person!
Most of my friends find it quite incredible that someone would want to make boards.
ohsoloco, I think the 1.5" is available for all the motors. They charge extra for the 1.5" on all of them anyways. :)
Sounds like thin 1.5" blades would be a good balance of cut straightness and band life. I'll have to look into band prices from other manufacturers as norwood wants $415 for 10 1.5" bands!
The 1 1\2 system is only offered with the 20hp engine.
So, maybe now the question would be, how do the thicker bands compare with production capabilities to the thinnner??
Can you saw faster and with more accuracy with a .050 blade than you can with a .035? So would you put out more or equal board feet before the thicker band broke?
I've got .035, 2" blades and can hear the sound difference when they rub against the flange on the guides, plus I have to be careful to watch for diving, which in turn slows down the feed rate. If one could get equal board footage out of a thicker blade but do it quicker, would it not be worth it to go thicker? The price difference doesn't seem to be a whole lot but that may also have to factor in to bdft cost.
Bumb for blade thickness and width.
???
Ment to type bump
When we upgraded to the Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25, we continued to use the .045x1.25 blades because we had a large inventory of them.
Last fall we tried a couple of other blades widths and thickness. The .055x1.5 Double-Hards would really cut - even through nails! We also tried .045x1.5 and .055x 1.25. We got a box of .055x1.25s and put them to use cutting up about 5mbf of hickory that had been on the lot a few months. They worked well. Then we had a lot of big hard maple and we used the .055x1.25 on them as well. We'd saw around 1mbf and then pull them - even though they were still cutting well - unless we hit something, etc.
We've got about half and half .045s and .055s right now. We use the .045s on the lighter stuff and the .055 on the bigger stuff. When we buy new blades, they're .055 so we'll eventually go all .055.
I don't think we're getting the life out of the .055x1.25 blades as we were out of the .045 blades. But they cut quicker and better thought big rough logs.
Probably if we had LT70 we'd go for the .055x1.50 but they're just a bit more aggravating to change out on the LT40. Not enough room.
Now all of my blades for Wanda are 1 1/4's wide but most of the time I run 0.045's. Life is around 3,500 to 4,500 bdft per blade. I saw alot of pine and cedar so I can saw 1,000 +bdft per sharpening. Most snap on the 4th resharp and very few get to narrow for re-sharp to kick out. Cost per bdft is around $0.015 for the life of a blade.
Now I can buy 0.055's and right out of the box they will cut 1,000 bdft and be sharp when I pull them just like Bibbyman has been doing. Have them sharpened and run them till they just will not cut or bust. Cost is around $0.015 per bdft. Just have to order more blades.
But the 0.055's do cut faster, smoother in ruff logs, and increase bdftage per hour so there is an advantage in useing them. When I switch over to an LT70 there is a good chance 1 1/4 0.055's will be my blade full time.