was wondering if anyone could tell me what are the best types of chisels, Robert Sorby, Two Cherries, and Barr are the ones i hear most about. which is best as far as durabillity, and holding an edge.planning on building something out of timber before i decide to take on an entire house,so prettymuch any info would be great.
Hi Robirt, welcome to the forum.
Chisels with a socket handle are recommended. I've got sorby chisels with a tang handle. They've held up so far but i try not to pry to much with them.
As far as metal quality I don't know which is the best. I'd assume that all those you mentioned are pretty good. Probably the more often you maintain the edge the happier you'll be with any of them.
Ian
Most brands are ok if you get them new and sharpen them wet. It is used ones that have been on the bench grinder that will not hold an edge. I have several that are home made from car springs that work very well as some old ones I bought at auction that I had a old farrier re-temper for me. It is learning how to sharpen and keep them sharp that makes a differance. Always sharpen them wet and protect the tips. I have some Stanley ones that work fine and a few that I keep to abuse when the time arises.
Look to get a few good ones and a good wet stone grinder and once you use a good sharp chisel you will see it is not such hard work.
ARKANSAWYER
From what I've read, Barr makes the best. I just ordered their corner chisel and should have it soon. I'll let you know how I like it.
I'd like to hear how that corner chisel works...also, lemme know how to sharpen one of those buggers. Barr sent me instructions on how to sharpen my framing chisel when they sent it to me. All of Barr's tools are hand forged...and I've heard that is the best :)
I spent 3 weeks as an apprentice at a timber frame company
and 1 week of that was a workshop. I got to see and use a
few different chisels. I had purchased a Barr 1 1/2" chisel
before I went and was very glad I did. They are the best
in my opinion. I have since bought their 2" and their large
slick that I used to build my timber frame home.
I got a chance to use my Barr corner chisel this weekend. Man was that thing slick! No pun intended! Sharp as a razor and true as a machinist tool. It was worth every penny I paid for it and they do cost a lot of pennies ;D There's no need to sharpen it now, but I will get back to you when I do.
Glad to hear the corner chisel is working good for ya ;) I know when I received my Barr framing chisel it was sharp and ready to shave some wood :)
Logman...where did you do your apprenticeship?
ohsoloco,
I apprenticed down at Cowee Mountain Timber Framers in
Franklin,NC.
Hey, it's a small world :) I did three weeks down there last summer....best vacation I ever had. So, how much different was the workshop? My three weeks were spent working on a single house frame in the shop the entire time (and it still wasn't done when I left).
Quoteohsoloco,
I apprenticed down at Cowee Mountain Timber Framers in
Franklin,NC.
I did a week at nearby Goshen Timber Frames, just down the road from Cowee.
Nice folks at Goshen, learned alot. Worked almostly exclusively with white pine, which is very easy to work with.
In retrospect, too many power tools for my taste, but when you are in business, time is money I guess. Especially while you just learning, I think power tools take away alot of the "feel" you get when working the wood by hand/chisel.
I'd prefer a more leisurely pace and hand tools whenever possible. Only exception is a chain saw mill to cut the beams in the first place.
Greg
I did my 3 weeks in March of 2001. I really enjoyed the
experience and loved the mountains. I hiked every chance
I got and rode my mountain bike all over. I hiked all the way
to the top of the big mountain behind the little cabin on the
hill. We worked on mainly 1 frame also. They use the
standard power tools there also. Chain mortiser, saws,etc.
I bought a chain mortiser to use on my frame and even with
that it took about 4 months of cutting since I could only
do it in my spare time. (24x36 frame) Greg, I read your
bio and I got my white pine timbers from horse loggers in
southwest Virginia. They move at a slower pace and you
may find it easier to acquire logs from them. Rural Heritage
website has a listing of horse loggers and you may find
some nearby. I started on my house in April 2001 and I'm
still working on it.
Logman,
Did Cowee Mtn get their new shop built yet? They had pored the foundation last year but hadn't put up the building.
I hope you had better luck with them than we did.
Eric
One of our members has a bunch of tools for sale.
https://forestryforum.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?board=ads;action=display;num=1059087038
All of the brands of chisels mentioned are good brands. And a quote from a well know timber framing school teacher was "there is nothing wrong with any brand of chisel, as long as it's sharp!" Keeping it sharp, as mentioned, is the key.
One of my timber framing teachers said that a corner chisel is only used on hardwoods, but other teachers have said to me "if you have a tool that will do the job, easier, use it". So I do use my corner chisel on softwoods. Good luck, Jim
We sell all three brands at Log Home Store. (Sorby, Two Cherries, and Barr). All three are high quality steel. Of the three, Sorby has the longest handle and blade and is a "tang" style. Two Cherries tend to be small available in smaller sizes and a good tool however, not for a massive amount of major pounding. My personal preference is the Barr. Socket style handle, built hell for stout and sharp enough to use out of the box. Timber Framers generally start with either the 1-1/2" or the 2" depending on the width of the mortises they'll be cutting.
As for used, I prefer a tool with a flat back, not much pitting, socket style, and some sharpening steel left. The worse off the handle is the better as it will make the tool appear less valuable. I'm hard on tools so I rarely go shopping for "used" by the brand.
Regards, Scotty
I don't know who makes the best chisels, but I would definetly look for the one that holds that keen edge the longest.Rather spend more time on the joinery than on the stone.
Ask a Timber Framer which will hold an edge better :A Henry Taylor or a Robert Sorby?
This is probably a more important issue when it comes to choosing a drawknife.I found this out in a hurry.Try peeling 85 house logs with a poor knife.
I just wanted to pass this along regarding tools and timber framing. Steve Chappell at //www.foxmaple.com has a section called A Workshop Primer. It talks about the basic tools to get started in timber framing. I found it very helpful.
Also,//www.mjdtools.com often has high quality antique timber framing hand tools for sale at his website, but they aren't cheap.
I was wondering if anyone knew if there any hand cranked boring machines and bits around anymore and how much they are selling for. I haven't run across any for sale on the Timber Framers Guild website. Do they ever show up in the midwest at tool shows or flea markets, etc.
I saw one this summer at an old engine shoe. If I saw the same thing you are looking for. One I remember had two cranks. One on each side with an action like peddleing a bike. Seems like it was about $150
It's good to know there might be some out there yet. Did you happen to notice what brand it was and what kind of shape it was in? Just curious.
Jeff: What else did you see at the old engine "Shoe"? :D