I can't get my Rancher 55 to run full throttle. It starts and idles fine but as soon as I give it throttle is bogs down like it's out of gas and stalls. If I 'pump' the throttle I can get the RPMs up, but as soon as I try steady full speed, it stalls. I had a similar problem last fall with my 385 and it turned out to be a cracked fuel line and the vacuum wasn't pulling gas, just air.
I took the 55 apart and checked the fuel line end to end and it is fine. The filter is clean and open. No visible air leaks around the carburetter. Tried new gas and got the same thing. The spark coil unit looks OK from a visible inspection.
Any ideas? ???
DR;
Check for carbon build up at the muffler and exhaust port.
Can you get a compression test done, it might be a bad ring.
Same thing happened to me after my father borrowed my 55.... blown jug...... junk saw.
He didn't put the right fuel mix in it, maybe he didn't even put mixed fuel in it. I had the dam thing for 8 years was my favorite saw......... Dad won't admit he did anything wrong and won't replace the saw.... he had to go buy his own saw, not borrowing mine any more...... about 5 years ago,he dropped a tree on another saw of mine and put it back in the rack and said nothing... my niece slipped an told my son what had happened.... Roll reversal is a killer he's worse than any kid I've ever known...
can you run at full throttle with it choked?
sounds like the diaphragm in the carb may have got a hole in it----
First thing I'd try is turning the low adjuster out some 1/8 to 1/2 turn and see if that helps, if not turn the high out the same. If that doesn't help take the carb apart and clean all passages. It could be a air leak but it wouldn't idle good then. Steve
are the crank seals good ?
Thing is, it ran perfect last time out. Not a bit of problem. Tonight, I'll check compression, then remove and tear down the carburator.
:( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
Tonight I decided to check out the Rancher 55 again. I took that carburetor apart and found everything to be OK. I ran a compression check and with 5 pulls on the starter rope it went up to 120 PSI and held until I released the pressure. So, I put it all back together again and tried to start it. It was completely dead. :'( :'( No spark at all from the ignition unit, even with the ground/stop wire removed to eliminate switch issues.
Apparently the ignition module was/is the problem. Bailey's wants $90 for one ! :o :o :o I found another supplier with one for $75. :-\ My issue is, how can I be sure this is the only problem. The saw is about 5 or 6 years old and cost around $350 new. Should I just go buy a new saw? I really liked the 55 for all-around use. To bad they don't make it anymore. :(
UPDATE: If I do buy a new saw, which Husky model will fit my 55 chains and 20" bar? I have about 10 chains, two are brand new.
They still have them across the ditch.
http://www.husqvarna.ca/node1556.aspx?pid=110
http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/products_product_details.aspx?pid=149
Hey DR Buck I'm not sure but i have a 455 Rancher not sure if it'll work with your other chains might want to check into the 455 Rancher . I'm fairly new to the chainsaw and cutting world so a saw like mine might or might not work for you.
Found an ignition module online for $45. Ordered it last night. I'll have an update in a week or so.
paint the handle white, It will want to work better then!
;D
did you check the seals and crank case for leaks ?
Quote from: dancan on March 29, 2008, 08:37:57 PM
did you check the seals and crank case for leaks ?
Seals and crank case leaks won't keep the plug from sparking. ???
QuoteI ran a compression check and with 5 pulls on the starter rope it went up to 120 PSI and held until I released the pressure.
DR_Buck, I've read that 120psi compression is low for a chainsaw to run properly. I'd say it's time for rings.
Woops , I missed the no spark issue :P I,ll read all of the posts ((mostly)
Bailey's sets the low pressure at 110psi.
QuoteMost chainsaws need a minimum of 110 psi to function properly. Though a chainsaw may start at less than a 110 psi reading, it will not perform at the optimum level.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=G+320HD&CAT=
Dr_Buck, have you removed the muffler to look at the piston, rings, cylinder, and exhaust port ?
The 455,460, 357XP and 359 will accept the same bar and chain as your 55. We are still getting the 55, built in Brazil, but who knows for how long.
Some types of ignition moduals have a built in advance that works off of peak power level . In other words it stays slightly retarded until it starts then shifts at some predetermined rpm's.
I don't know if this might be the problem in this case or not but I have seen this on the SEM moduals used on certain Stihls. Unfortunatley the only fix is to replace .
Now I'm completely baffled. smiley_headscratch My new ignition module arrived today and I went right to put it in. I still don't have any spark ! This is with the stop ground wire removed. So it's not the switch.
I did remove the muffler. Everything looks fine. There does not appear to be anything wrong physically. This saw ran PERFECT the last time I had it out, which was two weeks ago. Up until I took the carburetor apart, it at least started. :( Just wouldn't go to high RPMs without dying out. I've removed and replaced the plug. I can't even get spark from the plug just grounded against the cylinder. It has compression, it's getting gas.
Any other ideas not already presented?
Dan, bring over the white paint. ;D
http://home.howstuffworks.com/chainsaw5.htm
Do you have the proper air gap?
Did you compare the resistance between the two different coils?
QuoteDo you have the proper air gap?
Yep, the book says .3mm.
QuoteDid you compare the resistance between the two different coils?
I haven't measured it yet. I assume one end of each winding is grounded to the iron core since there is only one wire coming out?
This might help ...
http://youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4&feature=related
Buck If your blind as me you can't see the spark. I was working on a saw that wouldn't start, checked for spark and didn't see any (must be blind) dumped a little mix down the plug hole, held the throttle wide open and it fired up in 3 pulls. It might be good to get a tester just to be sure.. It's kind of unusual why the spark would go away when you worked on the carb. Far as getting fuel if the plug is just a little damp it might not be getting enough, soaked it could be flooded. Steve
I see they are on sale around here for $400.00. Are the Brazil saws inferior to earlier ones??
I like the 55 for firewood and average cutting jobs, it just keeps working day after day , much better than my 357XP which failed more than once... It pulls really hard when cold....
Ignition problems can drive you nutty especially if a person is not sure of how they work .
That said,some saws have jumper wires someplace which connect the handle portion to the engine to make sure you have a good ground.If they come loose,depending on the saw,it may start and you can't shut it off or it may not start at all.
If you are going to test that thing,first you have to have the coil airgap correct.Too wide it won't fire at all,no matter how fast you spin it.Usually around 10-12 thou does it .Always connect a good ground wire to the plug.Some times a bad ground can ruin a coil .Yea,some people may argue with that staement but been there and done that before .Trust me .
All thngs being correct,ground,good switch etc. there is no reason why no sparky .It's unlikely you got two bum coils on your hands .
You probably checked the spark arrestor screen and made sure it is not plugged with resin etc?? This affected the high speed once on my 55.
It's Fixed ! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
I tore the shop completely apart looking for my spark checker and never did find the dang thing. So l couldn't check the coil without using the spark plug. Turned out I had a bad spark plug and the one I was using to test with in light I couldn't see any spark, but it was working. So I spent $45 I didn't need to spend and got back to the original problem of no high RPMs. Now I have a spare coil. ::)
I removed the carburetor for the 4th time, disassembled it and soaked it with 2 different gum cutter sprays and took a hair fine wire poked it into the jet feeding the main throttle body. Put it all back together, pulled the choke and gave a couple yanks on the starter rope and 8) it fired right up. Now it's running like new. :)
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Glad the thing is able to putt again .Ah,sometimes education comes with a price .No big deal,I'm sure we've all done something like that at one time or another . ;)
Oh but the times I have done something like that.