Anyone have them?? Work well? I am giving myself a hernia adjusting and leveling the standard ones on my Super. I need a new solution.
I was also thinking that some hydraulic ones would be nice...I would think the super's pumps could support operating them.
Thanks!
Steve,
They shouldn't be that hard to set. Here's what I do.
I drop the legs at the hitch end of the mill and the outside legs. then I run the head of the mill to the hitch and set the legs at the rear of the mill. Take the weight of the head of the mill off of the end that you are setting and let the axle become a fulcrum.
I do the same, in reverse for breakdown. Just be careful that you don't over-balance to the rear when you run the head back there. :)
I found a pry bar at the local flea market for about $5 that helped too. It is a little longer than the one provided by WM and gives you a little more leverage. It has a spud (point) on one end and a prying thingy on the other of a 7/8 steel hex bar. The spud end works great in the leg holes. It is a "new" item generally sold by hardware dealers that attend flea markets.
If you were already doing this then I have two more suggestions. 1. Get on a weight lifting program :D 2. use a hydraulic jack.
I thought I was going to bust a gut the first time I set up because I hadn't thought about moving the head of the mill
yes you must move the head, now if they would put a little power shovel on the end for uneven ground. :D
I have four adjustable outriggers on the new 70. They work good. I was told by Marv at Salmon Arm WM that I should unload them before adjusting. It takes a little longer to set up, farting around with these fine adjust thingies but once all the settling is done you can have all 6 doing their job.
Most of your finer truck stops sell a trailer bar that is about 3 feet long with a nice rubber grooved handle and the other end fits the outriggers just fine. It's a little pricey at $70 USD but is well worth the leverage. :D
It sounds like this process would work as a generic set up procedure on ANY mill. What I do on mine is run the hitch jack as low as it can go than lower the rear supports, this is where my saw head is already located ( the rear) I than jack up the frount end to " level and ALITTLE above and than drop the frount legs..once thats done I lower the remaining4 supports....I hope Im doin this right ???..seems to work fine and I dont have to worry about a fulcrum point....any input? ;D
Joey, you need to stay the heck out of that high class truck stop!!! :-/ Binder bar's are $18-$28 all over Alaska and around $30 for the chrome ones. I ain't found one with the rubber on it but I ain't above sliding a hose over the thing neither! ;) ;D
Andy
The FAO's from wood-mizer has their problems. They work fine when new. but, the problem with them is after you get some rain and sawdust in them. well, they don't work so well. I don't think they are worth the money. I carry a few different thickness of boards around and slide them under the out riggers. No reason for me to beat around the bush, I'm self employed now ;D
Thanks, MM, Now how do you get the dragback on the LT40 Super to work without pushing the board off to the right?