The Forestry Forum

This question has probably already been asked, I'm just not using the right search words.

I'm really confused by all the machines out there, we have gang rip, 2 headed planers, 4 sided molders, straight line rip, etc... What I would like to understand is how the big boys surface six sides of their lumber.

I understand how I do it as a wood worker... Joint a face and a edge, plan the other face, pull to width on the table saw then pull to length with my miter saw, look it's S6S :) But I can't imagine all this happens for commercially available lumber.

Could someone help me understand the steps involved and machines used in each step or at least point me in the right direction? Shoot maybe there is a magic machine for all I know... feed a rough cut board in one side and out comes S6S on the other side.?.?.?

Thanks

Thanks Guys...

S4S is surfacing the four sides, being the two edges and two faces. The ends (other two "sides") are end trimmed with trim saws.

A 4-head moulder is used to get the S4S (surfaced 4 sides). 
In a commercial operation, studs are dressed at speeds of 800-1200 lin ft per min. So it goes pretty fast. ;D

A 5 head or even 6 head moulder will give more options, if moulding is done in addition to the straight faces desired. Are you talking more than just flat four sides?

Hope this helps.

I think the first thing beenthere is the most common - or at least the fastest. I think the problem with 4-headed planers/moulders is the stock has to be the same width, or else you have to adjust the side cutters for different widths.

Thanks for the responses.

Trimming to length seems it would would be easy enough... So it's really S4S I would like to understand. I always thought a 4 head moulder would be to make moulding like crown, base, shoe...  Talk to me, does a 4 headed moulder make all 4 surfaces (two faces and two sides) flat square and parallel it's opposing surface? Can you point me to a few of these machines.

Thanks

A 4-head moulder will make all four sides flat and parallel with the other side, if it is set up to do that.

Crooked pieces in will get straightened a bit, but will not be as perfect as joint/plane one-step process. If too crooked going in, the piece might jam.

Four-head moulders are made/sold by sponsors WoodMizer and Baker.  See left column and click-on.

A few weeks ago, there was a thread on these moulders.  :)

I found the thread thanks !!!

Actually this is a good question. I'm still wondering what the best way is to S4S random width lumber. It would take forever if you had to keep adjusting a moulder. ???

oakiemac
What would you be making to want that S4S random width?

What would the increments be for widths?  like by 1/4" drops?

I had a lot of paneling finished random, and 1/4" were the drops, sometimes 1/2", in width.

Boards were first pushed past a vertical jointing head, and then sorted for width. Widest boards sent through the moulder for the pattern, before the head was moved to a lower width setting for the next width.

Don't know that it is the best procedure tho.  :)

I was thinking of selling S4S lumber. So if I go to my red oak rack and pull out 100bf that I want to s4s, I'm pretty sure I'd end up with about 90% of the boards having different widths. If you ripped them to equal widths then I think you would loose a lot of board footage because no one buys 4" wide or less boards and if you ripped a 10 incher then you would loose also by having 2 smaller width boards where most folks seem to want the wider stock.
I was thinking of sending the board throuh the rip saw twice to get both edges and then planing but this still seems slow.

Actually I sell a good bit of 2 3/8" S4S lumber.  It is used for face frames for cabinets. 

We use a 6 spindle moulder but just use 4 of them for S4S.  All four are equipped with Shelix heads. 

For the 2 3/8" faceings we cut 2 1/2 to 2 5/8 wide blanks.  We normally cut blanks with a SLR (straight line rip) Rip one side straight then rip the width needed to make what is ordered.  We do make some blanks ahead of time,  they are all made 3/8" over for 2 thru 8 inch.(2 3/8, 3 3/8, 4 3/8, etc)  That way they can be turned into tongue and groove that lays to the full inch.