Okay, I have spent the last couple of days working diligently on the homemade mill. I got the engine running. Came up with a solution to raise and lower the cutter head. But I still have not come up with a better blade guide, yet. This may be my problem.
Maybe it was wishful thinking but I couldn't help my self. There was an old half rotten pine log near the mill. I rolled it up there. Got it dogged down. I started to cut. Soon after the blade entered the wood not over an inch or two (maybe a 12 inch wide cut) the blade started to dive.
Then it started to smoke.
I suppose it was from the added blade friction of pulling up against the wood, maybe three inches into the cut.
I backed out slowly. I feel like it was a combination of things.
1. I think the plane of the blade is not parallel with the plane ot the log bunks or track.
2. I think the drive band wheel (tire) has a slight downward angle (if that makes sense).
Let me say it like this, the drive shaft on the drive wheel has a slight downward slope on from the back end to the front (drive wheel side). I will try to insert photo here:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/driveshaft.jpg)
Now that I look at the photo close, it seems to be apparent (the slight downward angle back to front.
I can adjust this by sliding the pillow block bearings up or down in the slots.
I will try this tomorrow.
3. My homemade guides are near worthless. Only good thing that happened today was they kept the blade from being pushed off the back of the tire.
I was under the impression that good adjustable guides could remedy any slight odd blade angles.
(I am not sure how to define slight).
Is this true?
My plan is to upgrade to some heavy Cooks guides After I upgrade the guide support system. What I have now is made of thin one inch tubing. The drive side is quit rigid yet has no real angle adjustment, only forward and back and/or up and down.
The idler side is the same flimsy tubing and is essentially worthless as it appeared to put alot of downward pressure on the blade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/flimsyidlerbladeguide.jpg)
I took it off when attempting to cut today.
3. I have alot to learn about blade tension. I am now able to put all the tension that I think I need.
I will do a search on tension.
The blade seemed to have an everslight vibration. Maybe a sixteenth of an inch.
Will guides fix that vibration?
Any help would be appreciated.
I got a lot to learn about sawmilling.
Thanks,
James
Tubing is not a good material for the guide arm. It flexes too much.
We used 1" square solid bar, and made the idler guide adjustable. It runs in close to the log or cant, the closer the better.
You have such a wide mill design, it will be tough to remove ALL the vibration, unless you make the arm adjustable. That will also hold the blade much more steady, and help guide the blade.
The face of the wheels need to be parallel to each other, and 90° to the bed bunks. Any angle from 90° and you are fighting the tracking of the blade.
To adjust the parallel from horizontal, wheel to wheel, we use a stout string and pull it tight from the outside of each wheel or tire wall, and see if it touches the inside face of the wheels or tire walls. It's like setting toe-in, toe-out on a vehicle. This is very important.
Once you get all these adjustments correct, your problems will be behind you.
Then, you set the guides and the tension.
When I first saw your mill, I just couldn't understand why you went so wide ???
Table slabs are usually 36" wide, and 2 or more pieces. We have sawn many 36" wide pieces, use trailer wheels, and have no problems, once things are aligned and adjusted properly.
fishphamer, looked at the Cooks guides and think they are the best buy out there for the money. Stick with it you get the mill running right. Best of everything.
fish, looking at your first pic, it's more than a "slight downward" angle, it's a lot. Like Harold said, all this 'stuff' has to be aligned just about to perfection before you'll make lumber. I put a pic. of my moveable guide on, it's double 1" round steel running in lineal motion pillowblocks. Lots of adjustment room built in too. That guide needs to be out close to the log/cant. Also, please put some guards on that machine, I wouldn't want to be near it when it's running, I've seen too many blades break. Early on in my building process, I had a 24" dia. cast wheel let go, if I had no guards - I might not be here typing today, as some good size chunks left some good size dents in my guards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11530/guide.jpg)
Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on February 06, 2009, 08:46:49 PM
Tubing is not a good material for the guide arm. It flexes too much.
We used 1" square solid bar, and made the idler guide adjustable. It runs in close to the log or cant, the closer the better.
I will get rid of the tubing. Solid bar sounds like a good idea. Also, with the wide throat Maybe I should have two anchor points.
You have such a wide mill design, it will be tough to remove ALL the vibration, unless you make the arm adjustable. That will also hold the blade much more steady, and help guide the blade.
I will make the arm adjustable similar to what I have now but with two anchor points
The face of the wheels need to be parallel to each other, and 90° to the bed bunks. Any angle from 90° and you are fighting the tracking of the blade.
The face of the wheels are parallel, just not at a perfect 90 angle from bed bunks. The drive wheel can be adjusted in any direction. The idler side has toe in and toe out adjustment but the height and angle are set (welded). But I just thought of a possible way to add verticle adjustment.
I think you can see it on this picture:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Idler_side_tracking_adjustment.jpg)
To add idler side vertical adjustment, I am thinking I could pull the tire and hub off the spindle first. Then pull the pin out of the hinge for toe in/out adjustment. I would be left with the plate and spindle unit. Next I could put a hinge on the top of the plate/spindle and hinge to (on the top)another plate between it and tensioner slide. I could tap and thread a couple of holes on the bottom of plate so that vertical angle can be adusted with the turns of some large bolts. I am not sure if I explained this very well.
What do you think?
To adjust the parallel from horizontal, wheel to wheel, we use a stout string and pull it tight from the outside of each wheel or tire wall, and see if it touches the inside face of the wheels or tire walls. It's like setting toe-in, toe-out on a vehicle. This is very important.
In my ignorance when building the mill I thought the guides would correct everything. Great idea with the string technique, I will try it. But this brings another question up.
Does the band blade need to be a perfect 90 degree angle to the log bunk track (if you could look straight down from the sky onto blade and track? If that makes sense.
Once you get all these adjustments correct, your problems will be behind you.
Then, you set the guides and the tension.
When I first saw your mill, I just couldn't understand why you went so wide ???
The following picture shows the type logs I had the delusion of cutting.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Big_White_Oak_and_Golden_Retriever.jpg)
Also, my redneck mentality is at fault.
I think the Rake plans call for a 24 inch cut. My intelligent self thought if 24 is good than 48 would be twice as good. Sad but true.
Table slabs are usually 36" wide, and 2 or more pieces. We have sawn many 36" wide pieces, use trailer wheels, and have no problems, once things are aligned and adjusted properly.
I was truly inspired by your mill deadheader. I really appreciate you taking time to comment on my mill.
One more question. Would a wider blade (I have a 1.25 inch on there now) like a two inch wide, allow me to put more tension and be more stable with my superwide cut? Provided all the above are corrected.
Thanks again everyone. I apologize for asking so much in one post. Hate to make for a tiresome read.
Thanks Mike. I like your design. I will try something like that.
Also, I am nearly finished with the gaurds, i think. If I make the above changes my guards may have to be changed :(. I will try to post pics. The gaurds presently cover top, outsides and bottoms. Front and back next.
Thank you.
Thanks to you too Sawmlllawyer. And thanks to everyone for looking.
I am running a 1.25 inch blade now. Do you think a wider blade would be more stable with alot of tension on my 48 inch wide cut?
Fisher your almost there,that 1" thinwall just won't cut it.You need guides near boath tires,1 1/2" thick wall square tube would be fine,have the side twords you adjustable.Run the tube inside a larger piece of tube with a sliding fit.Put a t "T" handle screw on the corner of the big tube to lock it in place.Align tires as mentioned,a little bit means alot.When cutting have the guide as close to the cut as possible.Frank C.
Howdy,
I'll tell you that even w/ a production mill, woodmizer LT40 in my case, i still have to sort through a lot of monkey business to make sure everything is coplaner and square. you need to start at square one and work backwords. The blade needs to travel flat to the log bunks, the best way is to make sure your band wheels are square to the log bunks, i wouldn't count on the guides to correct errors. The guides are usually set with downward pressure on the bands, maybe 1/4"-1/2" down from flat accross. didn't know if you were aware of this setup. You can make good guides, they can be simple bearings with flanges. I think the store bought ones are expensive and overkill for your machine. You can put too much tension on the blades, i would buy a tension gauge on ebay to save guessing. It will help to know you are correct
I built my own bill reeks bandmill from scratch before i bought a woodmizer. First it was just goofing around, but when i wanted to do it for a business i knew i needed something reliable. As people mentioned. I could make money sawing instead of engineering. I would suggest bringing your bandwheels in. They will cause you trouble constantly. Just buy an alaskan chainsaw mill to slab with. They cost $200 some bucks and use a big chainsaw. This is what i do. Make the flat cuts on your bandmill then switch to alaskan. You can even make a seperate carriage for the chainsaw mill!
Good luck. Lots of guys here with good engineering skills.
KP
Hey James good to hear you are making progress. Has the golden retriever crawled back under the bushhog any more? :D :D :D When I saw it standing in front of the log, it jogged the mind a little. I thought we would have to hook it to the tractor to get it out. Tim
Bandmiller-I like the idea of thick wall 1.5 tubing as well I will compare cost of that to solid bar. This is a low budget saw.
Kelvin in hindsight I think I should have bought a manufactured mill. Heck I don't much about sawmills now. I knew zero when I began the idea of sawing my own wood.
I probably got another thirty of forty hours and about 300 dollars more in it after this week. I really want to exhaust all possibilities before I give up on my mill in its present state. I think if I had to make the band wheels closer I would just start from scratch. I kinda like a challenge.
I will try to make the adjustments suggested and go from there.
Tim, thanks, I even got a push button starter on the engine. Thought I had everything behind the bandwheels worked out. I failed to mention that I was using an old rusted, but I think still sharp blade. I am a bit frustrated but sooo close.
She got under it once yesterday, and got under the other bushhog thats hooked to the Massey earlier that day. She loves to kill a rat. She did the same howling deal. I knew she could get out and she did. Dogs are funny.
Okay I got sawmill on the brain and am heading out to see what I can do to fix it.
Thanks and keep it coming.
Fish
New pictures
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/tire_alignment.jpg)
Deadheader I did what you said about the string, cept I used a cable. There is a slight, maybe quarter inch toe in. By toe in I mean the inside edges of tires that are near eachother have a gap of 1/4 inch from cable. With new gaurds its hard to tell, but it look likes the faces are parallel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Newcontrolconsole.jpg)
New control console, throttle, starter and cutoff toggle switch.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/driveshaftoff%21.jpg)
I bet if I fix this it will work better. The driveshaft has no small angle. Not sure why I didn't notice this before. That is easy to adjust. The other side is not. Right now I think they line up. But I think I can fix the idler side with what i wrote in green above in this topic.
Thanks for the help everyone.
I appreciate any comments or critiics. Keep it coming.
Fish
If you have a 1/4" difference on BOTH inside tire walls, that's too much .
We have NO hinge mechanism for adjustment on the idler side. When we tighten down for blade tension, I can change the blade tracking, IF I go too strong on the tension bolt. This is strictly by twisting the frame a LITTLE with the tension bolt.
Are you making all the changes without using the blade guides. If you use the guides, you will never get it sawing right. Adjust the guides as the last thing.
Make SURE the blade is exactly parallel to the bunks, and all bunks are level and parallel.
After you get that crooked shaft aligned, I would bet another hour and you should be making decent boards. 8) Stay with it. 8) 8)
Oh, i wouldn't give up on your mill. I think you will have fun with it, as obviously you like tinkering with things. you'll get there. it helps to have the dynamics in mind when making modifications. I bought Bill Reeks kit, and it was a little light on some of the pointers that i got info on here. Plenty of guys have already done most of what you are having trouble with, so it is a good place to get help.
A neighbor bought my old mill i built, mine was portable on an axle with leveling jacks and all, and hes used it quite a bit, but he's a better engineer then me. I'm more of a woodworker, and my welding sucks!
A sharp blade that rusts will be dull, unless the teeth aren't rusty. Rust is micro pitting, and i'd wager you are going to be fighting an uphill battle with that blade. I'd keep them stored off the mill and run some lube/ WD40 on the blade before you are done running the mill so its coated well. Rust will kill the sharp point. Just like on a plane iron, or chisel. You want all the possible bad elements out of the equation when testing new adjustments. you need a good blade. Bad blade will make even the best mill seem bad, but a good blade will make a crappy mill run better.
Have fun, and good luck,
KP
Keep up with the pictures.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,20233.msg289144/topicseen.html#msg289144
Have you been here yet?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,25933.0.html
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,3171.msg41231.html#msg41231
You'll find this next one is a good reason to store pictures on the ForestryForum Gallery rather than hotlink toanother site.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,9790.msg133251.html#msg133251
or
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,20405.msg291215.html#msg291215
or
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,33233.msg479388.html#msg479388
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,3171.msg122206/topicseen.html#msg122206
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,4854.msg64827/topicseen.html#msg64827
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,4684.msg62235.html#msg62235
Fish,wile we're at it you should have more belts between the engine and the drive pulley.If the belt is slipping wile your cutting it can cause the band to want to dive and do strange things ,none of them good.When you build your own mill consider it a double dog dare to get it working right.Ask anything you want alot of us have been there too.Frank C.
When you get everything aligned, you will also need some sort of blade lube, especially with pine. It's actually not lubrication you need, but something to keep the pitch off the blades. I've had blades dive exactly like you describe from pitch buildup.
A few more photos after some tinkering
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/looking_down_the_track_.jpg)
gaurds almost complete, 1/2 inch ply will go in the frames front and back of band wheels. 1/8 steel sides and bottoms. Top is lightweight twelve inch wide c channel, about 3/16 thick.
The angle welded on the ends of track if for self propelled cutterhead system I am working on. Looks curved in photo, it isn't, maybe from curve of camera lense.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/obvious_misalignment.jpg)
I thought I had this straight. NOT. I am thinking that maybe my engine tightning and belt drive may have put upward force on the shaft making the bolts slip in the slot. Probably happened before painting. This may exlpain why it cut straight soon after i built it, but not now.
FL deadheader was right on. Thanks to him and all.
Thanks for the links Tom.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/straight_now.jpg)
Now straight.
Okay ,so my phone battery died or I would have shown wood cutting shots.
The blade still dives but not nearly as bad.
I think it may be the blade now. I am ordering more on Monday.
I have a 1 1/4" blade
What do you think about going to a 1.5 or 2.0 blade? Why or why not?
I know they cost more but if it helps I would try it.
Thanks everyone.
I discovered another issue with bandwheels. The drive side is set almost an inch behind the idler side. Not sure if thats clear.
I mean the drive side bandwheel is an inch closer to the cutter head than the the idler side.
I noticed the I couldn't get the blade to track in the center of both tires at the same time. So I measured from the same point inside each tire.
I can fix this too, just ran out of time yesterday. Will this cause the dive?
Man I Love this forestry forum. 8) 8) ;D 8) ;D
Thanks
You'll find, as you go along, that stuff is either lined up or it isn't. That goes for the wheels, the band, the bed and the rest of the mill too. You can compensate some with alignment guides, but it sure is easier if you are as close to "right" in the beginning as you can be.
The wider bands may or may not be necessary. I would shoot for the use of the 1 1/4 bands first. Going to wider bands means that you have to consider wider guides and band clearances.
If you can get it to cut with 1 1/4 bands, you are that much money ahead. Keep in mind that the extra money for bands is taken from your bottom line every time you put on a new blade, for the life of the saw.
Blade guides will go a long way toward helping to saw straight. But, don't fall for the trap of "that's good enough" when you feel you can do it better. :)
Thanks Tom and everyone. I was hoping I could show some shots of new boards. I didn't have as much time to spend on it today as I planned. I moved the drive side bandtire in and out by sliding driveshaft forward and back thru pillowblocks. Never could get blade to track both tire centers.
Maybe this is why I let it sit 3 yrs.
I am frusrated but still remember it cutting true.
There is tomorrow. Maybe the blade remains the problem. Will soon see.
I like to have a new band on when ever I am making adjustments. It is just one less factor that could be causing the problem.
I was able to set mine in vertical plane by removing the wheels and attaching a straight edge to the hub. Measure from the center of the hub to the top of the straight edge to make sure they are the same on each. Next attach the string with the plumb bob on the small section extended from the top of the straight edge. Measure the distance from the string to where its tied to the front edge of the straight edge on the top. Next measure the bottom of the plumb bob to the bottom front edge of the straight edge, make adjustments until both measurements are the same. Do the same on the next hub without moving the sawmill. This should make both wheels in identical vertical plane. (Sorry for the rough drawing below)
GF
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11029/image.jpg)
Quote from: sawmilllawyer on February 06, 2009, 11:51:21 PM
fishphamer, looked at the Cooks guides and think they are the best buy out there for the money. Stick with it you get the mill running right. Best of everything.
OK,i agree 100%-new setup for my TH-the movable bar stock is 1 by 1 1/2 inch-you get what ya pay for in this world.....
trying to get photo of new setup but having trouble,getting into post..(http://%5Bimg%5D%20:P)[/img]
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16616/pentax_%28235%29%7E0.JPG)
Thanks to everyone again.
Didn't get any mill work done today. Seined catfish all day.
I did order 4 blades from Cooks. 2 Simonds and 2 Supersharp. And a blade alignment tool.
They backed up Tom's recommendation of staying with a 1 1/4 " blade. Said a wider blade could take more tension but needed more HP and was harder to make run true.
I was an easy sell for smaller and cheaper blades.
One thing that the Cooks fella said, was that the rubber tires could take the set out of the blade on the side touching tire and that could cause the dive. Sorta made sense since the set would be on the bottom tooth when cutting and and not the topside, therefore diving. Seems the rubber tire wouldn't be hard enough to take the set out of the inside teeth, to me. Anyway I will keep that in mind if the new bands cut okay and start to dive.
I am starting to get this alignment thing. It should be absolutely required to consult ForestryForum.com before building a sawmill. :(
I guess I am a slow learner. Okay I noticed something the last few days. Beside the fact that the driveshaft was out of line and the band doesn't track in the center of each wheel. I am thinking that my cutterhead frame may be warped a small amount in a diagonal way, I am jumping to conclusions at this point.
I did a little sketch that tries to show how the blade looks compare to the logbunks/tracks, here goes
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/sawmillsketch.jpg)
okay preview is difficult to see.
The blade is not parallel to log bunks.
If everything else is correct, flatness, tension, sharpness , will the blade being a little offkilter from a straight down view affect the cut? Why or why not?
GF I appreciate this instruction, I am not smart enough to figure it out. Got a few questions..
Quote from: GF on February 09, 2009, 10:40:31 AM
I was able to set mine in vertical plane by removing the wheels and attaching a straight edge to the hub.
How do you attach the straight edge? Clamp, lugnut?
Measure from the center of the hub to the top of the straight edge to make sure they are the same on each.
From center of the hub to the top of straight edge on track? I am slow here. Or top of attached straight edge?
I think if I understand the above part the rest will register with me. If the tires are in the same vertical plane but still not 90 degrees from horizontal plane track won't I still have trouble? I know this if for my benefit and do apologize for not comprehending, maybe someone can put it in simpler terms
Next attach the string with the plumb bob on the small section extended from the top of the straight edge. Measure the distance from the string to where its tied to the front edge of the straight edge on the top. Next measure the bottom of the plumb bob to the bottom front edge of the straight edge, make adjustments until both measurements are the same. Do the same on the next hub without moving the sawmill. This should make both wheels in identical vertical plane. (Sorry for the rough drawing below)
GF
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11029/image.jpg)
Thanks everyone
fishfarmer,
Love to help but it sounds like your getting some great pointers here. Keep it up. your almost there 8) Ain't it fun ;D
Firebass
Fishpharmer,
Level the track as best you can. The straight edge mounted to each of the hubs will be used to get both hubs in vertical plane with each other, if they are not in vertical plane with each other it could cause the blade on the top of one of the tires to be further in or out than on the bottom, if this happens this will cause the blade to walk very slightly as it goes aorund the the tire centering itself.
Sorry for the porr drawing. The purpose of the straight edge and the plumb bob is to get the measurments identical at the top outside edge of the straight edge out to where the string is tied, and to measure the bottom front side edge of the straight edge to the point of the plumb bob, mor than likely when you first start you will notice a difference in the distances. The goal is to try to get the measurements the same all bth hubs. If the top measure two inches from the outside edge of straight edge to the string the bottom should be the same, do the same with the other hub. This way you will know that both hub are now aligned togther in a vertical plane with each other. Once I did this on mine I have been running it for 5 years and had no problem with the tracking.
I also made a leveling tool to level the blade with the track, I took a 2" piece of square tubing and cut a piece, I then removed one side. I next cut two slots for the straight edge to go through. in the middle bottom I welded a nut on the bottom side and threaded a bolt in. You should be able to put a straight edge through the slots and then hand tighten the bolt to the blade, this will secure the straight edge to the top of the blade. I normally use a 36" straight edge centered and measure both end from the deck to the end of each straight edge. You can then make the adjustments as needed to level the blade with the deck.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11029/Leveling.jpg)
Thanks GF.
I am still wondering if the blade running against the rubber tires will push the set off on the inside (next to tires) of blade.
This would be topside of cut, I think.
Would that make blade dive?
Losing set on the inside of the blade, will cause the blade to dive.
Did you use new tires ?? If so, you can cut some of the tread on each side of the center rib, and that will allow the blade to ride the center rib, same as the "V" belt wheels on other mills.
We found Munksforsager blades to be stiff enough that we have no problems with losing set. Takes a little more umph to set the blades.
Thanks Fla. maybe thats why it started to dive from the beginning.
I did use new tires.
When my new bands arrive I will see if they cut good to start with and then dive.
I will cut tread if necessary, that makes sense to me.
AKA "monkey" blades I read about in some of your other posts?
Thanks 8)
Yes, Monkey Blades. Made our mill work as good as any manufactured mill.
WE had Woodmizers, Suffolks, and ended up with Munks. We will never switch.
If I understand the "not square to the bed" picture. It might be OK. If the blade "leads" from one side to the other with one side lagging, It would have to be a lot to make much difference. What it will do is cut back on some of the width of the cut, but that isn't all that critical. There have been sawmill manufacturers that have toyed with the angled blade. Some even swore by it and said it cut better.
The criticalness is that the band is straight, fore and aft. Level to to the bed from tip of a tooth to the back of the band body.
The other is that it is level with the bunks. It has to be the same distance to the bunks from the band to the bunk on both the power and idle side.
That one side of the band hits the wood before the other is a minimal problem and might even be an attribute, according to some manufacturers. (I can't remember which one) :D
Thanks for addressing the "not square to the bed" situation. I am beginning to have hope for my mill ;D ;D 8) 8)
I do know it would help if I used the proper terminology.
I will continue to :P :P :P trying to learn.
Tom,
I remember which manufacturer. Cause I have one.
It is the E Z Boardwalk. I have some pics of it in my gallery. The blade is at a 15 degree angle to the log.
We have been sawing pine and with a sharp blade it will pull the manual mill through the cut with out any push.
James, what's on the spit for Thursday this week?
I am also am like Fla._Deadheader, I only use Munks blades on mine also, had tried some others but went back tot he Munks.
GF
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Idler_side_tracking_adjustment.jpg)
Since I have no vertical angle adjustments. I decided to do some modifications while waiting for the new blades. No vertical angle adjustment on the idler side, I should have said.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/tracking_adjustment.jpg)
I removed the wheel and tire from the idler side hub
I pulled the pin out of hinge (the short round shaft makes a T on top of the hinge pin.)
I am took it to a machine shop for modification. Not sure how it will work but this is my idea.
The idler side is a plate with the shaft welded to it. The shaft and support brackets will be cut off the plate with the hinges on the end. This plate will be reused.
Another plate of the same size will be welded to the shaft in the same configuration. Only the shaft will be shortened to allow for the added thickness of another plate.
A hinge will be welded on the top edge of both plates. Holes will be drilled in the front plate and 1 inch nuts will be welded to the holes. Another nut will go on a one inch bolt, to lock in place,and one inch bolt will go thru the front plate and allow for vertical angle adjustment by pressing against the back plate.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Idler_side_winch_tension.jpg)
Clear as mud?
I was up too late to be typing last night. I suppose I should have said those last pictures are the old setup. I was trying to explain the new setup and get any feedback, yay or nay.
Thanks again 8) 8) 8)
We built our head frame differently than yours. Whenever we change a blade, we tighten up normally to the same spot every time. Then, watch where the blade runs, IN RELATION to the guides, which are set dead on even. If there is too much space between the back of the blade and the face of the flange on the guide wheel, a LITTLE more turn-tension, twists the frame a minute amount, and the blade moves closer to the flange.
Here is a photo of what we have. There are 2 bolts. One pulls the wheel tight, the other is the normal set point. Over tighten will twist the frame and do as I wrote, above. IF a blade is shorter, (Different Brand), we can adjust the stop bolt, then tension as above.
It does NOT take a lot of movement to run the blade on or off the tire. ¼ turn is a LOT .
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10330/FDHtension1.jpg)
Fla , thanks. possibly I am using too large of a range of motion. I like your setup. Why didn't you tell me this before hand :D :D
8)
Photos have been in the Gallery for several years. ::) ;D ;D ;D
Stay with yours. I feel you are closing in on the alignment, and, new blade might make all the difference. 8) ;D
I was surprised to find out how fast the blades dulled when I built my mill. When it starts to dive again dont automatically assume the sets the reason. I am using rubber tires and have not had a problem with the tires flattening the set of the blade.
Another good thing about munks blades is you can buy them from meneminee saw, a sponsor of the FF ;)
I like the idea of the wide cut. If hudson has a mill that will cut 52" I dont see why yours wouldnt work once you get it fine tuned.
New idler side modifications. The shaft was shortened from the old setup to allow for addition of new plate with top hinge. Set screws and nuts allow for vertical adjustment. If I can't get a flat blade with this I may need to startover.
What do you think?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/newidlertopfrontview.jpg)
top view
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/newidlerbottomviewwithsetbolts.jpg)
bottom view
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/newidlercuttingsideview.jpg)
cuttersideview
bck thanks. Now that you mention it I did see the hudson before my build.
Wish I had ordered some Monkey blades now. Thanks everyone 8) 8) 8)
Thats a pretty decent looking bead you laid down there James. Tim
Yeah, fist thing I thought when I saw the pics was "good welding on that". Nice Job.
Thanks Tim and Erik, I must confess I had the local machine shop to the job. Cost me $111.00 to have it done. I would have done the welding but I didn't have a way to saw the shaft off the old plate and drill and tap the holes.
I think I am getting the flu. And it was raining all afternoon. So maybe I can get something done tomorrow.
But my welding does look like that. :D :D
Good show Fish,hang in their.Whats handy for those hinge setups is threaded rod and long nuts.Their hex with flat sides easy to weld and welding seems to bind them a little so theirs not much slop yet they will turn.It helps to level the mill base with a good level then you can level and adjust everything to plumb.Good solid adjustable blade guides and you will be in tall mill clover.Frank C.
Gday
Fish Your Allmost there it wont be long now Mate ;) ;D 8) Ivae been waching your progress since the start and havent posted as you have had The Rite Bunch of Blokes on the Job since the start mate ;) ;D 8) 8) 8) Good Luck and Keep up the good work ;) ;D ;D 8)
Reguards Chris
Thanks Chris and Bandmiller. I really do appreciate all the encouragement I get. I wouldn't be near this far without my fellow forestry forum members. ;D 8) 8) 8) ;D
I am planning on contributing a percentage of my first sawing jobs to the forum.
I did a little work on the mill late in the afternoon. Got caught by the dark.
Guess I did/do have the flu, still feeling bad. Guess all the fishmoving and water work last week got to me.
I plan on putting alot of time in the mill tomorrow. My goal is to get everything back together and lined up, put a new blade on and make a straight, non diving cut of a reasonable length.
Is a straight cut asking too much without any guides?
I decided on the Cooks guides, just don't have the 400-500 to shell out right now for two guide sets and the new steel for rigid guide supports.
If it cuts okay without guides, will it cut great with guides?
QuoteIf it cuts okay without guides, will it cut great with guides
?
The lip on the back of a roller guide gives the blade more beam strength and also keeps the blade on the bandwheel during the pressure of cuttong the wood.
The Guide also keeps the blade parallel to the bed and gives you some way of adjusting/tuning it.
I don't know if this is applicable here, but Hud-son uses "guide block" Carter style guides on their bigger mill, and my Norwood (25"+- cut) uses the standard roller bearing w/ a simple lip on the rear (I think like yours Fish). I wonder if the large throat should have a guide that holds the blade more captive? Anyone?
Ironwood
The guides are an interracial part of the saw. Trying to saw with out guides could very easily stress a new saw to the point that it would not run true even with guides. Don't get hung up on the idea that the guides have to be round, sure the best guides are round but flat guides would be much better then no guides. An old brake pad could be your inspiration piece for designing a guide system for your mill. Just add a roller bearing for the saw to run against while in the cut.
As mentioned earlier in your thread, your mill is very wide, I really do'nt think you will ever get a straight cut without guides. I may be wrong though. My only experience with bandblades is a very big bandsaw at work that we use to cut poly pipe up the middle, there is up to 4' of blade in the cut when splitting 48" pipe up the middle. We use the same saw to split 6" pipe and if you do'nt move the guides in, there is absolutely no way it will cut without the blade climbing or diving. The guides on the saw at work are quite simple; they consist of 2 roller bearings on each guide one on top and one on bottom of the blade. They have a slotted adjustment so you can move them to where they just touch the top and bottom of the blade. These guides are on a piece of octogon bar stock that is attached to the backside of the bandwheel covers and can be adjusted by loosening a set screw and moving the bar in and out. I have probably made this as clear as muddy water, We have a no camera policy at work but I'll ask my boss if I can get a picture of the guides on the saw.
Okay thanks fellas, Tom, Ironwood, Backwoods and Okie, I get the impression its best not to try sawing without guides. I can still use my old guides they just stink. Specially the idler side.
Thanks again to all. You really are helping make this happen.
fish
Fishfarmer
Looks like yer gettin it figured out, Keep it up 8) 8) 8) I cant wait till the day Im fine tuning my swinger. Build on fellow sawyer. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Gday
Fish I myself would never runn a bandmill w/o guides mate ;) as it might work just fine but there is allways the chance somthing could go wrong :o If you gotta wait a little while for the cooks guides just knock yourself up a set block guides My lill jonsered ran block guides that where originaly fitted with compressed hardwood but i replaced them with home cut Ironbark blocks that where a little chunkier ;) I yse to replace the guide blocks on mine every 50 to 75000 bft
my Top blocks where 2.1/4 long x 1.1/4 thick x 1.1/2 wide with a small lip at the back gust incase i overfeed sett 1/24 from the back of the band but i never had it touch it ;) ;D
The bottom sandwedge blocks where 1 .3/4 square and 3/4 thick the way i use to sett the guides was to slide the moveable guide rite up close to fixed guide touch the tension up on the band just finger tight then lock the top blocks into place while putting downward pressure on the block then just tighten the bottom blocks up using a 1/50th (roughly) feeler gauge between the block and the bottom side of the band
then just slide the guide back across to the far side tighten the band up to tension and away id go mate ;) ;D ;D ;D 8) 8)
the guides where just mounted on 1.1/2 x 2 " tube
Just Keep On Charging Along Mate ;) ;D ;D 8)
Reguards Chris
Fish,you can pretty much just copy commercial saw guides,and make them yourself.Ridgid is very important and accuratly adjustable.For my bandmill I used three small sealed ball bearings.Two bearings togather for the band to ride on one laying down for the back of the band.The back of the band should not ride on the back bearing,only momentarily when stressed in a cut.Frank C.
James,
After you get your "new" band tracking and you like where it is on your band wheels-now you know where to install your guides-the flange on the guide wants to have a 1/16th inch space or gap to the back side of the band, so when in the cut,the band will move back to the flange.....Bert
And yes,your welds do look really good.....
Thanks everyone, I am heading out to feed cows then work on the mill.
Here is what I have now
This is the drive side, and is fairly rigid.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/drivebladeguide.jpg)
This is the flimsy idler side that I think does more harm than good since it flops.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/flimsyidlerbladeguide.jpg)
I will come up with something. Thanks everyone.
Gday
Hows things going fish ;) ;D Id go with you on changing that adjustable guide arm Mate ;) ;D Looks Alittle TOOO Adjustable ;) :D :D ;)
Chris
I have made some good progress. Just no time to post pics.
Getting calves every few days and moving fish for spawning season.
I'll get something up soon.
Thanks for asking Chris. 8)
On the idler side adjustable arm, is there a way you can extend the top portion up higher to a point to where it almost hits the cross brace between the two masts? If you can do this you can then attach a bearing on the very top that will run against the brace between the two mast. This will give you a solid support from the blade guide to the cross member and the bearing will roll against the cross member. When you create the bearing mount make a slotted slot for the bolt so the bearing can be adjust up or down to adjust for the alignment.
This was what I did on the mill I did and the adjustable arm does not flex up at all. If you have a 4' opening this will keep the blade guide solid all the way across. Hope this makes sense.
Also something you may want to consider on your new idler side spindle you had welded up, you may want to run the adjustment bolts from the backside, this way once you put guards on you can adjust the tracking from the backside of the idler wheel outside the gaurds.
Keep up te good work! ;)
GF
Fish, just to throw one more thing in - I use these guides, made by C.I. Wright Co. Have had them almost 20 years only wearing out one thrust wheel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11530/guide_right_h.jpg)
Fish,
Honestly, a captive blade like the one pictured above is the ONLY way to go on a large span. There is way too much stuff to go wrong if you simply have the roller kind w/ a lip on the back. IMHLEO (in my humble lots of experience opinion) ;).
If you need some I can try to look in my stash for some extras. I have a ton of Tannewitz and other bandsaw bearings, like a bucket full. The one pictured looks like one used on an early Oliver or Cresent bandsaw (have a few of those as well, but most are a bit larger). PM me if you like.
Ironwood
GF thanks for the idea, I think I understand it and l like it. You have an amazing homemade mill on your site http://www.twistedoaksawmill.com/ thanks for sharing with me.
mike_van that guide looks perfect....googled C. I. Wright Co. and didn't come up with anything. Guess they are pre information age. Seems alot of good stuff was. Thank you.
Ironwood you answered my thought about the guide on the idler side. I would be interested in a "captive" guide for a 1.25" blade. I will pm you as I have limited familiarity about what might work best. Thanks.
Thanks to all for looking. I have been having some technical difficulties with photo management. Will post soon.
Update:
I had to make a small modification by cutting out a piece of steel to install new vertical adjustment hub.
Original looked liked this
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/idlersidehorizontaladjustmentcloseup.jpg)
and this
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Idlersidetensioneradjustment.jpg)
with new hub and vertical adjustment
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/idlersideverticaladjustment.jpg)
This was the first step in getting things lined up.
After mounting the tire I pulled the cable accross the front of tires and got them coplaner. Then I put the band on and measured the flatness of the band on both sides. The new vertical adjustment helped tremendously. I got that all adjusted.
The tracking was still off. I mean I could get the band on the center of one tire and not the other.
This caused some serious head scratching.
I finally figured out that I had to adjust the horizontal angle on the drive side. After going thru a series of spacers, installation, and checking adjustment I finally got it right. That took several hours to be honest with you. Because I had to loosen band, unbolt pillow block and put in spacers and then reverse all that. This was done several times.
Now the band tracks in the center of each tire. Also, a blade guide adjustment tool was used to measure flatness in the blade relative to the log bunks.
Then a new sharp blade was installed and the drive side guide was adjusted and flatness checked again.
All looked good. Now I needed a log.
I put an old SYP log on there. The same one that the blade kept diving into.
YAHOO :D :D not this time. I have a sawmill that cuts flat and level by gosh ;D ;D 8) 8) ;D ;D
First cut, perfect (to me) 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/niceflatcuton18inchlog.jpg)
Second cut, nice and flat ;D 8) 8) ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/niceflatcutonoldlog.jpg)
Flat and parallel solid two inch slab. I am happy ;D ;D 8) 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/flatandlevelcutslab.jpg)
We did it. ;D ;D Thanks to everyone.. :P :P 8) 8)
I couldn't have done it without your help. Thanks to all.
I still have a few details to work out and finish (like the guards) but I have come along way.
Thanks
My Sincerest thank you to all. Enjoy... ;D ;D 8) 8)
I have a shortage of immediately available logs. I have plenty standing but thats another thread ;D
8 foot red cedar log (been sitting on the ground three years).
face cut
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/8footredcedarlog%7E0.jpg)
3/4inch by four inch board
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/halfinchbyfourredcedaredge.jpg)
lined up and flat
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Newbandlinedandstrait.jpg)
Finally making sawdust
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/makingsawdust.jpg)
Last cut
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/redcedarcant.jpg)
And I did find out you can saw with just one guide. Still want two.
Thanks for the help. 8) 8) ;D ;D
Everything is looking good James. I have to find a day to come see it in person. ;)
8) 8) 8) 8) Thats great. I'm glad you stuck it out, everything looks great.
Its working 8) Now you can trick it out....or maybe just use it... Now your one of the experts at it.
Great job fishpharmer.
Firebass
WoooooHooooooo Gday I Bet you cant wipe the ;D ;D ;D off your face now that you have gone through all the dramas and came out the other end with a mill that will saw a nice board for you Mate ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) 8)
A BIG Congrats on a Job Well Done James ;D 8) now its only the finnising touches to go ;)Your on the home strait Mate ;) ;D ;D 8)
Reguards Chris
I'am glad for you Fish,you earned it,good feeling kinda like beating the system.Frank C.
Congrats on the diligence to stick with the adjustment building. You already knew we were NOT going to let you give up, EH ??? ;D ;D :D :D
Are you using ANY down pressure on the guide(s)? Typical is about ¼"-½" down from bottom of tires. That gives a little more blade control.
A lube system will help IMMENSELY when sawing SYP.
Good job, and, don't let the smile freeze your face . 8) 8) :D :D :D
Thanks to all. I am by no means an expert at mill building. A blind hog finds and acorn every once in a while. ;D ;D
I still got a lot of finishing touches.
Guides are one.
I only have one guide. It has slight down pressure. That helped alot.
I need another.
I do want a lube system. What is best to use for SYP, FL? Diesel?
Thanks
Thanks to all for the help. 8) 8)
Water, slightly soapy water. Tire compounds will get slimy from MOST types of lube. You have to experiment. We used plain water, and sharp,well-set blades. Sawed some HeartPine, and, that's SOME sticky sap.
James, I use water with a little pinesol added. Dish soap also works well.
Way to go, nothing is impossible. Glad to hear that its tracking correctly.
GF
We tried Pinesol and the tires got slimy, the blade slips and then burns the black slime to the band. Radar, you using trailer tires or V-belts ???
I'm using vbelts right now. Hope to be using solid steel round blades in the near future. ;)
Way to go fish! :) Hey those guides I use came from Buckeye Saw in Ohio, that was pre-internet, around 1990 or so.
Radar :D :D
I figured you might be using V-belts. Tires are a whole nother animal with coolants. ::) ;D ;D
Congrats FishFarmer ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I bet your excited now :) Glad you got it going
Tracy
Congratulations Fishpharmer 8) looking good
Fish,try cutting without any lube,we use no lube with the mizer70 white pine and oak no problems.My homebuilt bandmill I use a mix of diesel and oil dispensed with a wick setup no drips ,no stains ,no problems.If you must use a lube probibly the plain water with a little soap, as suggested ,would be best.Frank C.
Way to go James. 8) I bet you are doing the FF boogie for sure. I never had a doubt you would be able to get it going. Tim
Some more one guide lumber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/secondcedarboards3.jpg)
It looked good to me. ;D
Any advice, comments or criticism. Someone at church bought it off me already.
I turned down an order for 50 ft of one by four inch oak. Since I am not setup to do logging just yet and have only one guide.
Does anyone know who I could talk to at Woodmizer about roller guides? The online store didn't have any and my email to the store is yet unanswered.
Also, I am trying to find a double belt sheave in the 24 or 25 size, inexpensively priced. I have a larger double belt sheave for the engine side. Need something large on the other side. Trying to keep the same ratioes and speeds.
Thanks again everyone.
Fish,if your not too old and stiff reach around and pat yourself on the back.Home made mills usally evolve a little improvement here and there.Big pulleys are very expensive new,many times a company that sells and rebuilds motors will have a collection of used ones .Frank C.
Gday
Nice timber fish like Fank said ;) You can give yourself a good pat on the back Mate ;) ;D 8) you can also try Cooks online for a drive sheave as they seem preeedy cheap on their prices they have listed on there they also mail me out the newsletter each quater and that has everything in it ;)
Keep up the good work mate ;) ;D 8)
Reguards Chris
Great going James! Very good stuff.
try Cooks online
They are not sponsors, but, they DO sell to anyone. I use their ADJUSTABLE guides. They ARE the best, but you pay for what you get. Buy one and line it up to what you have. Buy the second, later.
As far as the double belt sheave, try surplus center. They have a lot of inventory, and good prices.
Forgot to say how good those boards look. Bet it feels pretty good. You sold them, so are are already a commercial sawyer. ;D
Looks good, mill and lumber. Wish I had seen this eariler, sounds like you went thru a lot of the same hurdles as I did with my first mill. Now to find time to continue on my 2nd mill.
Way to go fish, I had faithin ya. Nice additions to the mill that will certainly increase its utility for you now and in the future.
Thanks to all forestry forum members for helping me reach this point and guiding me towards a few upgrades:
Drive side roller guide....
Old one
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/drivesidebladeguide.jpg)
New one......tremendous improvement.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/New_Cooks_blade_roller_guide_small.jpg)
Old single belt drive sheaves.....Slipped on larger logs..
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/pulleysandbelt.jpg)
New Double belt drive sheaves.... No apparent slippage.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/Double__Belt_Sheave_medium.jpg)
Where's da Boards ??? ::) ::) ??? ??? ;D
I have been keeping them safely stored inside of logs. ::) :-[ I just put the new guide on Nov. 16. I ran an old dull blade just to see how the guide was working. Still need idle side guide and then I am ready to roll. Should get it done this week.
I just got too many more pressing issues, unfortunately.
hey fish,
congrats on the whole deal. looks like a lot of hard work payin off good job.i tried to keep my lumber so safely hidden but curiousity gets the better of me. im sure youll be taking it out of the cover just because you can before long. pc
Gday
Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on November 22, 2009, 10:11:12 PM
Where's da Boards ??? ::) ::) ??? ??? ;D
Quote from: fishpharmer on November 22, 2009, 10:17:28 PM
I have been keeping them safely stored inside of logs. ::) :-[
I just got too many more pressing issues, unfortunately.
James Do You Store Em Like I Do Mate ;) :D :D :D ;D Ive got logs coming out me ears atm i just cant saw quick enough Mate :) ??? ::) But im worken on a solution to that one ;) ;D 8)
Lookn Good Keep it up Mate ;) ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) 8)
Regards Chris
Thanks Paul and Chris. Until I get a shed and lighting its gonna be slow progress.
Unfortunately logs can wait, the critters can't. I have been planting ryegrass all week for winter pasture. And I am late at that too.
hey Fishpharmer looks great, get that other guide on and you'll be ready to go. You did a heck of a job on your mill. Saw yourself out a building. I can see it now, I hope you can too. Getter Done ! ;D
this is an awesome thread. i am glad ya didnty give up!!! this shows me that when i get goin on the build, i have an excellent knowledge base here!!
Results finally. Some of you may know that I have been plugging along with the details on my mill little by little. Have installed double belt pulleys. Also, the Cooks roller guides are finally installed on both the idle side and the adjustable side of the throat. Forum members and Tom helped me work through alot of this stuff, especially my rudimentary water lube system. I do intend to make the improvements he suggested to that system. So all neccessary systems are in place. This afternoon it was around sixty degrees and sunny. I put a new band on the mill and adjusted everything. Then I had a big old SYP log that I have been saving just for the purpose of slabbing with the mill. This was a test to see if it could cut a really large diameter log. I did not put a tape to it, but think the log is about 36 inches diameter. Remember the log deck is 48 inches wide. I'll spare the jibberesh and get to some pictures.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-19_009.JPG)
The beam on the right is app. 3 x 6 inches. I did not dog the log down, since so heavy, just shimmed it on each side to prevent rocking.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-19_012.JPG)
First cut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-19_014.JPG)
Three inch thick slab. 18 hp engine pulled fine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-19_015.JPG)
My offbearer was having a tough time picking up the slabs. (me).
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-19_017.JPG)
Most of the wood had decayed to some degree, yet the center was very hard. I am sure that made this log easier to cut than an equally large "fresh" log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-19_018.JPG)
It was getting late, but I was glad to have some nice slabs stacked on my 3 pt. hay forks. I will get some measurements tomorrow.
Finally I feel some success with my mill build after how many years? I began in 2005.
Don't give up all you mill builders, If I can do it you can too.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Thanks Forestry Forum!!!!!
good job its nice when things come together now you can finally take a day off and go fishing 8)
Yea! 8) 8) 8)
Congrats. 60 degrees - it snowed here again today >:( Enjoy your mill and sawing.
good job on mill looks real good nice looking boards keep up the good work 8)
Pharmer,you just had the ultimate bandmill high,savor it.And you had the grit to give it a proof load with that first log,your my hero.Frank C.
That big cypress log is waiting for you :).
OK !!!!! Now you can start on some hydraulics. Mill that size needs a log turner especially.
James
Good on you!! Sure is great when a really difficult, looooong project finally reaches a successful conclusion. Congrats
Joe
James I knew you would get it to do what you wanted...Enjoy....Tim
Well, I left for one day and look :o what your did..... :)
Congratulations with the progress that you have made. First lumber !!! 8) 8) 8)
Thanks everyone for the nice comments. I have come to the conclusion that homemade mill building is a never ending process for me (especially at my pace :-[). There will always be improvements to be made. A log turner would be nice, and I know where to find a good plan to build one, thanks to pineywoods. This is not the first lumber I have milled with this machine. It is the widest log I have tackled to date. Most everything cut on the mill so far has been in R & D mode. Consistency has been elusive until the recent installation of the new roller guides. Hardwoods have yet to be tackled. The big cypress log has been waiting until the bugs are worked out of the mill. I would hate to ruin in a matter of seconds what took hundreds of years to create.
Okay, the SYP slabs are about 32 inches accross, I measured this morning and have added a few more pics.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-20_First_Wide_SYP_004.JPG)
The tape doesn't lie.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-20_First_Wide_SYP_006.JPG)
Trusty log dog and family pet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-20_First_Wide_SYP_007.JPG)
Yes, an 18 horsepower engine is enough, I really wasn't sure before now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18520/2086/2010-02-20_First_Wide_SYP_011.JPG)
4 inch thick slab I milled today.
Thanks again everyone. I welcome comments, questions and criticisms.
I would not have reached this point of completion without Forestry Forum members. :P :P
8) 8) 8) 8)
Fish, get that cypress ready and I'll make a trip over.
Way to go!
I only have one note of safety for you though. The dog you are using to hold the log down should be on the side of the log not on top.... ;D
Quote from: Norm on February 21, 2010, 08:56:03 AM
Way to go!
I only have one note of safety for you though. The dog you are using to hold the log down should be on the side of the log not on top.... ;D
smiley_hillbilly_tub_base smile_banjoman smiley_fiddler
That looks great, its s a great feeling to see something you built work. Keep up the great work, and keep us posted on any new modifications.
Gary
Radar, I'll let you know, thanks.
Quote from: Norm on February 21, 2010, 08:56:03 AM
Way to go!
I only have one note of safety for you though. The dog you are using to hold the log down should be on the side of the log not on top.... ;D
Well thanks Norm, When I made her sit on the side of the log she didn't like that band coming at her any better than when she was sitting on top. ;)
I will keep everyone posted.
I really appreciate the kind words.
Way to go! Them are some big boards 8)
When I visited James the dog crawled under a bush hog....it might turn up just about anywhere....I believe that was the same dog wasn't it....Tim
Tim, yes, same dog. She had some puppies under the bush hog about 5 weeks ago. About the day WDH visited actually. Mutt daddy dog. Cute pups though.
Good job, James. I know it was a big day for you. Persistence has paid off.
Don
Thanks Don. I am getting there. It sure would have been easier to buy a manufactured mill. :D When I grow up I want a mill like yours ;) :D :D ;D
I like that "hydraulic log/cant turner" also. Must run on peanut oil.... digin1