Hey guys, I'm new to this forum.
I am an Arborist/Business owner out of Connecticut. I am interested in getting into timber framing, and buildings out of wood I produced from my business. My question is, I just purchased a 14' dump trailer to haul logs so I can use them other than firewood. What is the best lengths to cut logs into, in order to efficiently use them in the future? I am asking just in general terms, I'm sure some species you'd want X length compared to others.
I'm not too far from you - A few things I've picked up from almost 20 years "in the business" One is you never have too many logs! Second is, whatever you cut, someone will want something else. Unless I have a specific use for certain logs, I try to get everything here as long as possible. A 20 footer can be 2 tens, or an 8 & a 12, and so on. 14 footers are about useless. Unless you have a particular need for them. I don't think I've ever had someone ask for a 14 ft anything. Unless it's changed here in Ct., a barn or out-building can be native roughsawn lumber, a dwelling though has to be graded, stamped, or have an engineer sign off on it. It's CYA for the building inspector. Don't neglect firewood either, last season I was 200/full cord, picked up here. Delivery was extra. I sold all I had.
I agree with Mike. But keep in mind making "quality" logs over length. That is, look at what the tree has to offer and buck it up accordingly.
I had one part-time logger that I would tell that I need 12' logs. Sure enough, next load would be all 12' logs. Problem was, only a few of them were usable due to some defect or another. "Well, you wanted 12' logs." Would be his replay. Yea! But I need them to be straight enough to make a board!
I saw a lot of oak beams for log home houses. 14' 6x8s are the most popular. One reason is that most mills in our area only handle logs up to 12' in length. 14' tends to span a room width I guess. Smaller rooms a 12' will do and they can get plenty of them.
The very best way would be to get the logs in tree length (or as long as possible) and buck them up when you have a need. This way the ends won't get dried out.
I'm not sure that I'm following your business plan. Are you planning to saw these logs up, or are you going to have someone else saw them for you?
A tree will only yield a certain size log. You can't figure that crotch is going to make good wood, so you'll have to buck it before that point. Some logs will be 8', and some will be 10', etc. And a 14' dump truck can haul logs longer than 14'. Always allow for a 4-6" trim allowance on your logs. Logs shorter than 8' are really hard to sell.
Logs should be straight. Crooked logs will yield crooked lumber when it dries. Things to watch for when making framing timbers is spiral grain. That's where the bark looks like its twisted around the tree. They have a tendency not to stay straight when they dry.
I saw for one timber framer who only wants pine. His preferred length is 16'. His sizes on the timbers range from a 4x6 to a 10x10, with lots of sizes in between.
So, its really hard to say what size to cut your logs. Standard lumber sizes in hardwoods are 4' to 16'. Don't count on too much down at the 4' length. For building, studs do well at 8'. But, when you get to joists, I've cut some as long as 22'.
Thanks for the replys.
I will be having a mill saw the logs for me. It's about 7 minutes down the road, I just needed to know (as some of you have answered), what lengths would be most useful.
Everything I get cut would be for my own use, and since I have logs available to me from my treecare business, I think it'd work out.
So if I'm understanding what you all are saying, lengths like 8'6", 10'6", 12'6", 14'6",16'6".
I try to get logs (softwood)delivered either 21 ' or 25' long.
With a 21 you can cut all sizes except 14 and 16 (8 and 12, 10 and 10)
With a 25 you can cut all lengths to 16' (8&16, 10&14,12&12, or 3 8s)
All assuming a 3" trim allowance.
For softwood you don't need a 6" allowance
when my tree guys say good trees I go there and mark them for cutting. One wrong cut can take all the value out of a tree. At my last house I had a farmer for a neighbor. The one line he said to me that rose to the top was..............Ifin it was easy everyone would be doin it
Cut'em where they straight.
Like everyone else said you got to cut log s where they are straight. It`s amazing
how straight a tree is laying on the ground, and how crooked it is after it`s bucked
and put on the mill. I`m in Bethany if you want to come look around.
arj
Brendon,
First off Welcome to the Forestry Forum, glad to see you here.
If you don't have one look at getting a loggers tape. It will help you see the sweep in logs as you measure them out. Then you can cut to lengths that give straight logs.
Also learn to look at the tree standing, make a mental note where the defects and sweep occurs. Once on the ground it is hard to see a defect is it is on the bottom of the log.
As for trim, I would leave the logs 6" extra. That way if the ends check, you have plenty to clean up.
Wally
Welcome to the Forestry Forum Brendon! 8) You'll see a few familiar faces here, especially in the chainsaw section where Al, Rocky and Gary hang out. ;D
Brendon the logs are a byproduct for you and your business.Cut and store as long as you can comfortably handle getting the longest you can from each tree.Before long you will find out what legnth you use the most of.Of course you will never have just what someone is looking for, Murfey was a logger before he started making the laws.Frank C.
That Murphy musta been som kinda guy to go and do all that. Seems he has been seen in these parts at the most inopportune times. What a joker.