I have wanted a saw to process slabs for firewood and to cut to length some boards. I have been thinking of a swing saw or a chainsaw style. Each has it's ups and downs. I chose the chainsaw type.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15568/1455/P5110066.JPG)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scz0lvZNaW0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zT0a8iQ-OK8
try the link to see it work.
Looks great! What are you powering it with? More details please!
I have a 1.5 HP electric motor for power. I have an air cylinder for the power down. The chain is a counter weight. The oil bottle above is presurized to 5 psi it has a selonoid valve that open when the motor runs and the pressurized oil flows thru a needle valve for the bar lube. The air toggle switch to run it is about 3 feet from the bar and the motor on off/kill switch is right there.
It looks great! Thanks for posting.
How did you mount the drive sprocket?
Looks great! Is the chainsaw clutch still operational there, or is it locked?
I started a similar saw last year, but never finished... (know how that goes?) I wanted to take mine one step further and have a power feed belt or chain to feed the wood to the saw, then a switch on the end to cycle it... so the conveyor would run until the slab wood touched a plate at the end, which triggered a switch... switch would cycle the saw, when the saw came back up, it would hit a switch that started the conveyor moving again... I think it could be done with a gear motor and two microswitches. My goal was to make something that was semi-automated, so I could run it while I milled with my MDS, and feed it slab wood as it came off the mill... I built one prototype with a bar and chain, but I've been thinking about switching to a swing saw... what were the pros and cons of each for you?
-Norm.
looks sweet, nice job.
Sure beats bending over with a saw - Nice job -
The clutch is locked. How I did it. I took a chainsaw clutch hub and got a chain sprocket that had the same bore and was about the same size. I ground just a bit off the teeth and inserted it inside the clutch housing. I brazed it in there. It is held on the shaft with a set screw so it is easy to remove to replace the hub.
Hydraulic power would be easier.
I tried to run it with a mirco switch set to turn the motor on when the bar moved. The motor would not come up to speed fast enough. The current draw was pretty high and the belt slipped. So now I turn on the motor. It come right up to speed with out a load and cuts great.
Now I need to build the conveyor. Any leads on a really cheep conveyor or conveyor belting or chain? I have some conveyor rolls a gear reduction box and a motor. Close to New Hampshire would help.
Sounds good, I understand your issue with the motor starting...
For the conveyor, I always thought this type seemed the best... chain with lugs welded on it... someone on here a while back mentioned taking a small piece of I-beam and turning it on its side, running the chain in the trough that this made, and using sheet metal or even plywood for the sides...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8iPMpp83O0
-Norm.
That looks handy. I noticed the bar extending out. Is that so you can mount an adjustable stop to make sure of the correct length each time?
Have you tried anything heavier - say a 7x9 RR tie?
Hydraulic would work better as you could start and stop the chain for each cutting action – thus reduce the wear on the chain and bar, etc. But it would add a lot to the overall cost with the power pack, valves, hoses, etc.
don't know if this helps but I have one of the original chompers. It has a conveyor on the end of it. I dont think the model I have is made any more.
http://www.chomper.net/
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,5064.0.html
The bar off the end is for a stop. I have not added it yet. I have used it to cut some big stuff. With the air cylinder I have the pressure adjusted for the right down force. The chain is not over fed so it even zips thru large oak without issue.
Pro & con
I run the head saw and have helpers on the out feed.
My helpers did not like the idea of a swing saw, something about having their hands near the blade/belt ect.
I can cut up to 22" wide and sometime a twisty or tapered log I might have something 6" or greater in thickness.
So to get a good capacity of 10" cut depth you need a big blade 24" or so. Those blades are not cheep and you need power to turn it.
The chain saw I came up with has a 20" bar off a partner saw and I spaced it so I use the same chain as my stihl 361, 72 drive links. Part compatibility. A draw back is you need oil for the chain but I have people that will run it. It runs on less power that a circular blade and you can be farther away.
Was not an easy decision to go with the chain but it works.