While wandering YouTube, I ran across this video of the toothed blade. I wasn't aware of it. Looks cool.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pxKo1vjOwA&NR=1
I just read about it this morning in Wood magazine. Is that about a normal speed for using a hand plane? I never have gone that fast with my passes.
I'd like to get a toothed iron for one of my planes. The sycamore I've been playing with tears out pretty badly. Those L-N tools are amazing. I can get good results from my old Stanleys, but I'd be better off spending the money on the L-N and using my time to work on a project.
Fast is the way to go with a plane, light passes with a sharp tool. 8)
Toothed blades have been around since at least the 18th century. At that time they were mounted in a smooth plane sized stock and usually the blades were held vertical at a 90° angle acting like a scraper. Now with the availability of low angle planes, it makes perfect sense to use one. I've never used a toothed blade but have played around with the Lie Nielsen planes, I think I've only used a number 5 and a 4-1/2 but boy were they nice. I think I have to stimulate the Maine economy and get a low angle jack soon 8).
I've been watching those blades in leevalley. Isn't their main purpose for glue faces?
BT, how about a photo for us Video challenged ???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13024/toothed.jpg)
my understanding is that a glue face should be as flat as possible, and not scuffed up.
those things look sweet to work a board down quickly.
Gracias Modat. 8)
found this interesting use for the toothed plane blade
http://www.andrewcarruthers.com/Images/Shavings/source/3.htm
Planing deeply figured maple ribs can be tricky; half of each stroke is cutting up into end grain and the wood tends to tear out. To get around this problem an early genius invented the toothed plane blade. The back edge of the blade has a series of parallel grooves so that the cutting edge is notched. As it cuts, the wood between the mini blades is torn and this prevents larger tears from forming. To finish the rib a cabinet scraper is used or, for a better finish, a very fine set plane is used very delicately.
Toothed plane marks can often be found on the inside of ribs and occasionally a few can be seen on the outside. Many French makers used very fine toothed planes when trimming their rib structures for fitting the back and top plates.
The magazine article I read said it was for planing difficult, easy to tear out woods.
Historically toothing planes were used to prepare glue surfaces when gluing veneer to solid wood. The idea was that the glue would bond better when the surface had more texture to it. Modern adhesive research shows that this is not the case, so there's not much point in surfacing veneer substrate with a toothing plane other than for historical accuracy. On the other hand, the other use of the toothing plane, which is shown in that video, is still very much a practical application. Chris Schwarz just did an interesting story on it at his blog (http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Face+It+How+To+Deal+With+Bookmatched+Panels.aspx).
Depends upon the glue, epoxies NEED to have a void to fill, unlike hide (white glues also) which need perfectly mating surfaces.
Ironwood
Right, but who uses epoxy to apply veneer? ???