Dealer told me to use Stihl conventional oil for the break-in period. Bought a 6 pack (6 gallons) and will be using it until gone then back to AMSOIL. Saw is MS 361. During the break-in should I be using my saw to the max or being a little gentle? When bucking larger logs, I usually start the cut then use the bumper spikes (right term?) as a fulcrum and force the far end of the bar down. I push down until I hear the motor start to work hard. Is that OK? Should I just be holding the saw and letting its weight cut? How about after break-in?
Thanks,
Andy
I don't force the saw into the cut. Keep the rpm up and remove more wood. But that is me. I forced on my MS361 at first, looking for some feedback vibrations that it was cutting wood. Then realized I was comparing it to my old 041 that didn't have the anti-vibration features, so had to adjust the tendancy to push the saw. ::)
Keep the chain sharp and there is no reason to use the spikes, IMO. :) Your take may be different.
When I bought my 372 the tech. at Madsen's said to run it like I would be using it, only not to rev it up without a load. For my 2cents worth, I would not use fuel with alcohol in it.
Run the carb a tad rich for a few tank fulls--8 ,10 or so .Then lean er out and run it like you stole it .
Back a few years ago when I bought two new Huskys the dealer would adjust the carb to run a bit rich, maybe 500 RPM below what the book said. They said bring the saw back after you have about 40 hours and they would readjust the RPM to what the book called for. That seemed to work just fine.
Now the new saws with the "factory adjusted" carbs the dealer can't set the saw up that way any more. When breaking in my new Dolmar PS 5100S I made the fuel mix with a little more oil and didn't make any long full throttle cuts for the first few tanks of fuel.
As it says in my Kubota break in instructions, it will take a few hours running for the engine parts to get accustomed to each other so refrain from full no load RPM.
Randy
And try not to make real long hard cuts, as mentioned with a sharp chain you shouldn't have to dog in to make it cut. Steve
Thanks for the tips. I cant adjust the carb much with the caps, so I might add a touch more oil to the mix. Gone through about 3 tanks now, cutting great. Tons better than the old craftsman I bought when I was younger.
Andy
Or if you have the small bottels of Stihl mix put in a bit less gas. Did I say I really, really like my MS-361?
I run my saws at 40:1 always, for break in I would ,
Run 40:1 Good oil whatever your gonna use.
Set the carb a hair rich, make it four stroke and then richen it a hair more.
Dont lug the heck out of it, dont hold it wide open not in the wood.
Run ten tanks through it ,set the carb so it just four strokes at wide open then as soon as it hits wood it should go to a two stroke, smooth out, and cut like a banshee!
I have never "broke-in" a saw... Never ran it rich for the first few tanks, never used more oil for the first few gallons... nothin'... never had an oil related issue. :)
Just mixed fresh mix and run the saw... only thing I have done is to make sure the saw always had a load on it at WOT...
Full synthetic oil is fine for to use right away... no need to use dino oil only for first few tanks/gallons...
Gary
I guess the way I look at it is, every engine builder in the country has a break in regimen for motors they build.
They do it to let the rings, bearings, etc break in or seat in first before hard use. Most of them use a diff oil for break in and dont over work the engine until it is broke in. I agree it does not hurt to run a saw a little rich, my husky dealer always sets every saw out the door rich, after ten tanks he will retune it and lean it out a bit. I myself think its good to let to run it a little rich a little more lube untill the rings seat to the cyl etc , so it gets broke in with out unneeded wear.
Yes, almost everybody has *some* routine for how they like to break in a new motor. But what Gary is saying is that it really doesn't matter much. If you're running some one-off, custom built race saw then of course you want to do everything you can to 'break it in' properly. But with an off-the-shelf stock saw it really doesn't make any difference. They are designed and built well enough that they will break in just fine regardless of any extra steps you want to take. Just don't take any extra steps that cause more harm than good.
Yes I understand what gary is saying, but saying it does not matter much is an opinion!
If it didn't matter much engine builders wouldn't be so picky about it !
I know its a 2 cycle not a race engine, but it is a high performance high rpm engine.
And IMHO it does matter and is worth the effort, But again that's what I do with my saws and I have to run them so you should do what you believe in with your saws!
No disrespect to Gary ,He has his OP and I have mine!
Timely thread. I'll be breaking in FIVE saws over the next two weeks. Not givin' 'em to the crew 'til I've satisfied myself that they're not gonna break 'em through normal use. I'm gonna have to find a lot to cut to keep the engines running that long. Fortunately, that won't be a problem. This heat, though...
Just don't put on a 36" bar and go out and cut huge logs that take a long time to get through. These saws do make make heat untill broken in. Steve