I will be putting the metal roofing on a building and need to figure out how to route the wood stove pipe up through the roof.
Anyone have a photo, diagram, or materials list that shows the arrangement of the triple wall pipe, roofing, flashing, and chimney arrangement?
When do you cut the hole in the metal roof and decking material (i.e. before or after you put it up)?
I've never run a chimney up through a metal roof and I would prefer to get it right the first time.
Also, where do you drop the screws through the ridge cap?
Jon
Depending on the pipe (single wall, double wall, triple wall) there are a variety of ways to go through the roof.
Here is one example of a double wall that has a "thimble" set up to take the weight of the pipe above the roof and can adapt to the pitch of the roof. The flashing and all are available to go in a framed box with the right clearances.
I searched "double wall chimney clearance" and came up with this hit, among others.
http://www.woodheat.org/safety/rulesforfluepipes.htm
A wood stove dealer could show you different things available for your job.
I cut the hole after the roof is complete. I try to arrange the stove so the chimney is about a foot from the peak of the roof. This way the top edge of the chimney flashing will fit under the ridge cap. I get a sheet metal shop (most places that sell stoves know who) to make my flashing. They need a sample of your metal to match the ribs. They will also need to know the pitch as they will make a cone shaped thing for the chimney. Last one I had made was maybe around a $100. On top of the flashing and attached to the chimney is another flashing which sheds the water...you get this from the stove place as it is a stock item.
This is the only way I've seen chimneys leak free through the roof. You can also route the chimney through the side wall.
BTW...I think tripe wall pipe for wood stoves is history...last I knew insulated double wall was the way to go.
When I installed my flue in my shingled roof the apparattus the sheet metal shop made for me was called a "roof Jack" It fit under the upper shingles and over the lower shingles. Been in service over 20 years.
When I have to replace the shingles with metal I'll get the metal cut so that the sheet(s) do similarly. The lower sheet will extend to beyond the roof jack and the upper with the overlap ending below. Each will be notched to fit around the flue as close as possible. Then caulk real well with the silicone material supplied by the metal vendor.
Good luck
take a look here...
http://www.fieldscorp.com/commercial/BURsystems/Installation/PDFdetails/fd01_fd22.pdf
http://www.buildings.com/ArticleDetails/tabid/3321/ArticleID/5762/Default.aspx
http://www.partsdome.com/thalermetal/default.asp
http://www.4specs.com/s/07/07-6100.html
one more...
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/proper-way-install-chimney-pipe-metal-building-roof-29839/
almost forgot....
this is excellent...
I like the people...
the support...
the product...
and dosen't hurt to have yur own SS-14...
http://www.berridge.com/cadd.htm
Heres a trick for cutting out your hole. Hold the piece of chimney up close to the inside part of the roof and shine a flashlight throught the bottom. The light will leave a nice oval on the ceiling and all you do is adjust it and trace it on the ceiling and cut it out with a sawz all. Work great.
Also put the chimney up through the inside of the house and not on the outside wall. Chimneys need to stay warm and outside ones tend to creosote up.