i've noticed that my 372xp seems to have less kickback than my old 2.3 c.i poulan you'd think with it being so much more powerful there'd be more . 8) 8) 8)i quess bigger realy is better. :D
It's the RPM's. Plus the horsepower. Isn't it awsome 8)
Be careful man. You've just gone from a homeowner saw to a pro saw. It's like comparing house cats to cougars. :o
Good Luck, Gus
8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)i love it my poo poolan was 10 years old and just for ocausanal camp wood but now i'm clearing my land i wanted real saw. i used to wok for a tree service years ago so i do know a little about how to use a chainsaw and my mind is allways on saftey plus i'm taking the game of logging classes in october dont help now but hey . i was a little nevouse about the power differance after not useing anything but that junk for so long but i will tell you it handles soooo much better. :)
The inertia brake on your new saw may also save you from serious injury sould you have a kickback.
The Poulans usually come with anti-kickback chain if they are homeowner models.I have a 2150 woodsman that I got as a gift.Changed to a Oregon bar and 91-vs chain.
I bet you are already appriciating the isolation system on your new saw.The vibrations are horrendous on the homeowner models.
Bigger is better. F=MA
yeh the anti vibration system on this is great 8) i have had no real kickback problem with this handles like a dream the poulan i had bought other chains for it i hated that saw came close to losing a leg with it once left three holes in pants not a mark on me:o plus constantly bogging down just not enough POWER. >:( the 372 i feel is sooooo much safer :)
I trust you already know but .......just don't get complacent about safety,they all kick!!!
trust me my mind is allways on safety ever sice my near miss ::) becuase thats what happend now i wear chaps and allways pay attention. but what i was saying is this saw does'nt seem as kickback happy. ;D
Reduced rpm combined with dull cutters will greatly increase kick back.
Keep your cutters sharp and run them fast.
kevin i used to keep several chains around so that alls i had to do was change chain keep on working then bring them to be sharpend. decided time to start doing it myself did my fist the other day and if i do say so myself i did a great job ;Dit was spitten out some nice chips. 8) 8)
Something that really helps is a guide for measuring the length of each top plate.
You can buy one specifically for this purpose or use something like a ruler with graduations on it.
After time the top plates become different lengths and should be made equal again.
hi kevin i bought the oregon kit with the files one for teeth one fortop plate and it also comes with the guide you place over it it says file every third time is that correct. also will they be even usin that thanks. :)
I believe you might be talking about the raker height.
Every third sharpening is about right for lowering the depth gauge.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cdcstihl.net%2Fstihlpost%2Fspring2001%2Fchain%2Fimg029.JPG&hash=4bf02a57448e980b1ec5b4416d7efd9430cd35cb)
my mistake thanks i cofuse easily :-[ how ofton should i check the top plate and once i turn my mind back on i know what your talking about. ;D
You might want to check them after every third or fourth sharpening if you are new at filing.
o.k thanks who makes the top plate guide and is that what its called. :)
I have two, one I think is from Granberg and the other came with my Oregon 511 chain grinder.
I'll see if I can find a picture of one somewhere.
thank you kevin you have allways answerd all my dumb questions and have'nt made me feel dumb i do appreciat that.
Dont think these are dumb questions, they aren't.
We all asked the same questions at one time or another, that's the only way to learn.
That's what this forum is for, if we didn't get any questions it would be pretty boring.
We are lucky to have a few guys that really know chainsaws inside and out and I appreciate their participation here as well.
Not real clear but try this anyway --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.com/photo/74882584/90577071LKnctj
The bottom left shows the graduations for top plate length.
thanks how do you use it. looks confusing.
It's multi function.
The primary use I have is checking the wheels on my grinder to make sure the radius matches, that's done on the U shape openings.
The graduations are used for measuring the top plate.
Just put one line on one end of the top plate and count down the graduations until you reach the other end of the top plate.
You could just as easily use a ruler but this guide is always on my bench and is easy to work with.
The idea is to keep the cutting teeth all the same length so the chain cuts even.
The small holes are handy for checking file sizes.
The back side has a pitch gauge.
now it does'nt seem as confusing thans can i pick one up at my service dealer or do you know where .
If your dealer sells the 511 Oregon grinder there should be one in the box with the grinder.
There's a part number on it and he should be able to order one from Oregon if he doesn't sell them separate.
o.k thanks.
Here is the Granberg model ...
http://www.right-tool.com/pitchnmend.html
thats a fancy one which do you recomend .
Either one, I use the orange one more often only because it has the wheel radius for the 511.
allright thanks :)
Hey Kevin
Do you have an opinion on the "Jolly" line of grinders? I'm pretty sure it's the unit Will Maloff recommended in his book "Chainsaw Lumber Making"
I was thinking about buying the "Baby Jolly" so it will mount right on the bar.
//www.tecomec.com/chain.html
Just looking at pictures ,your 511 Oregon appears to have all the functions of the "SuperJolly".
Personally I wouldn't want a bar mounted grinder for a few reasons.
Although I have never used one I think they might be a pain to set up and some of that sandy grit off the wheel will end up in the bar groove.
Consider a grinder that will grind the 10o side plate hook that some common Oregon chains require.
I'm not familiar with the Jolly line but it looks similar to the Oregon.
Availability of parts might be an issue .