I know I could ask that questions at TF Workshop I will be taking next month but I just couldn't wait! ;D
I was thinking of building a lean-on type of building intended to have a roofing but no siding for purpose of storage of tractor, implements, and etc. I was thinking of using treated pine posts (6x6 and 4x6) to practice and improve my cutting skills before moving on to garage/shop project then house later. Treated post woods are cheap and usually wet when I get to it so if I mess up, I can afford to scrap it for future building project such as fence or etc.
I was wondering if it is okay? I know it sounds stupid to ask since it most likely probably is okay but what if the peg start having issue with the chemical used to treat the woods? Clearly pine peg is not going to work due to poor strength so I will have to use hardwood peg but will non-treated hardwood peg be able to handle the chemical stuff?? Maybe just stick to hot-dipped galv bolt for that one??
There won't be any problem with the chemical and wood pegs.
And not stupid to ask. 8)
Thanks! Just had to ask! ;)
I just wanted to add that there are not stupid questions.....only questions that need answers......
Jim Rogers
I've done several timber frame projects using treated timbers, for pole barns. All is well with the pegs and un-treated pieces, like braces.
One client liked his barn so much, he made it into a garage and guest quarters, enclosing the treated timbers. I'm not sure how I like the idea of people living with treated timbers, and I've suggested he varnish them to seal them.
It remains to be seen whether the new style wood treatment lasts long enough to make it worth the trouble. In my 30 year pseudo-ranching experience that locating a rot resistant variety of local wood is the best bet. In our case the tree of choice is Cedar, but then again New Mexico isn't very wet like some places, but it doesn't hurt to ask the local old timers what they used to use for fence posts before everyone went to steel.
http://outfitnm.com/las-tusas-ranch/boundary-fences
Sorry about the shape of my ranch management pages, I offered them to my father for editing, and being 91 years old he hasn't the gusto he once had ::)
At one time, pop, a presby preacher, & retired chemist had the most beautiful web pages.
What can we do? We're all going to get old.
A good trick we have used and seen work for many year is to peg the timber to a Cedar post firmly planted in the ground, if and when the Cedar does rot, the timber isn't affected. Simply jack the timber up, and put a new rot resistant post in its place, or maybe replace the post with a concrete pile. I've grown fond of cutting the bottom out of five gallon plastic buckets to make cheap forms for the above ground part of the foundation. Use a post hole digger to make a nice clean hole for the below ground portion of the concrete pile.
Brian
Have you ever thought of high tensile fence?
Stonebroke
"Have you ever thought of high tensile fence? Stonebroke" Do you mean me?
If so I am not even sure what high tensile fence is. I do know the numerous elk in our area struggle with the barbwire fence we have. I have been thinking of building old style split-rail fence in a few strategic crossing locations.
Brian Rodgers
The high tensile 12 gauge smooth wire that started down on new zealand. It is much easier to put up and is almost wildlife proof.
Stonebroke
Cool thanks for the info
We are getting our first real snow right now. Nice and warm in our new shop where we spent the day, putterin' getting ready for inside work, now that Winter looks to be here in northern New Mexico.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20196/Stuccoedshop2.JPG)
Brian
Quote from: Rig on October 10, 2009, 07:56:50 PM
I've done several timber frame projects using treated timbers, for pole barns. All is well with the pegs and un-treated pieces, like braces.
One client liked his barn so much, he made it into a garage and guest quarters, enclosing the treated timbers. I'm not sure how I like the idea of people living with treated timbers, and I've suggested he varnish them to seal them.
Understand your concern and I really wouldn't close it in to live in treated wood shed. Nah! It will be used to store tractor implements and some other things I need to keep out of weathers. I am going to move them out from the old chicken house and put it in there then see about getting some concrete floor so I could use it to work on my timber frame. Sorta of TF shop. I have two chicken houses and I already turned one of it into my "shop/garage" and the other one is pretty much for tractor/backhoe/implements but gonna make it TF shop.
Quote from: stonebroke on October 25, 2009, 05:08:47 PM
The high tensile 12 gauge smooth wire that started down on new zealand. It is much easier to put up and is almost wildlife proof.
Stonebroke
We just bang on a few insulators and hook the top wire up to an electric fence unit. It will stop anything. As an example of the efficiency of electrics, I use a single wire about 2.5 feet off the ground as my sole control for my cattle. As long as they know it's on, they keep well away.