I was wondering how everyone wiped off the excess glue on their small projects, such as the inside corners and edges of jewelry boxes. A while back I made a small box out of walnut, wiped off the glue that I could see, and once the glue dried I applied a polyurethane finish. The places that I wiped the glue off now has "light spots" where it looks like the polyurethane didn't penetrate through where I smudged the glue.
Would it help to use more water on the towel I use to wipe it off?
One of the most used methods is not to wipe it. Wait until the glue squeeze-line has skinned over and then remove it with a sharp chisel, knife or such.
I've also heard of wiping the glue with a rag that has mineral oil in it. The oil doesn't hurt the stain, but it supposed to keep the glue from sticking to the surface of the wood. I don't know about this one.
I always sponge mine off with a damp sponge. I have no water in the shop so I tote a pale full when needed. The glue I use (Lepage's Cabinet Maker's) says use warm water and a cloth to clean up excess.
I use water & soft rag when I first glue. After it dries I will lightly sand the areas where the glue was.
jim
What I do on those tough-to-get-at inside corners is to use a small bristle brush dipped into water. Vigorously brush the inside corners and don't worry about getting any water in the box. That can be wiped out with a sponge. The bristles need to be on the stiff side. A small stiff artist brush is just right. The action of the brush assures that all the glue in the pores is removed with the water. I just use tap water, but warm water with a hint of soap would work better, although I have no issues with just tap. Don't be shy about brushing those corners and do not skimp on the water. It is easy enough to clean up and you can easily sand the inside corners with some 220 grit paper and that removes any raised grain from the water.
The brush is better than wiping in my experience since it never smears the glue. The vigorous action of the bristles gets the water in every crevice and pore to dissolve the glue, not just dilute it.
Good tips, so far.
Other things to consider...
We usually use waaay more glue than neccesary. A good joint needs very little glue.
Sometimes on small boxes that are difficult to work in, I will prefinish the insides. Or at least give it a first coat. Then any squeeze out will not penetrate the finish and peel right off. Another way to the same end is a strip of tape parallel to the glue line so the glue squezzes out onto the tape and peels right off.
I try to have barely any squeeze out on small pieces so as not to create more work later. Then one or two passes with the chisel about twenty minutes later removes the glue bumps. If the glue is oozing, I've used too much.
Now, let's see some pics of what you're up to... ;D
Metalspinner beat me to it on both of his ideas.
I either pre-finish or use painters tape.
woodsteach
Thanks guys. Some good ideas.
Quote from: locustoak on October 15, 2009, 10:13:18 PM
I was wondering how everyone wiped off the excess glue on their small projects, such as the inside corners and edges of jewelry boxes. A while back I made a small box out of walnut, wiped off the glue that I could see, and once the glue dried I applied a polyurethane finish. The places that I wiped the glue off now has "light spots" where it looks like the polyurethane didn't penetrate through where I smudged the glue.
Would it help to use more water on the towel I use to wipe it off?
leave it alone till it dries and then use a scraper to remove the dried glue...
I prefer to never pre-finish nor wipe with too much water. if finish enters the joint area the glue is compromised and I often use thin finishes that flow all over like Watco danish, etc..
Like said, let it skin then peel while it comes off in one piece. I do some times use a knife or chisel. Rockler sells a gizmo to remove it but not something i need or want. I do have some interest in the pat. applied for glue applicator I saw recently, made from silicone.
Water & glue easily equals light spots.
I've prefinished some parts before machining. This protects the surfaces but gives good fresh wood to glue to. Cleaning the glue out of these buckets was a miserable chore so I started spraying the thin boards, then cutting the beveled and grooved sides out of those prefinished pieces, saved a lot of time.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/pails.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1546734446)
Going overboard with water around a glue joint can weaken the joint, best not to get things overly wet.
First; an "ounce of prevention" says don't use more glue than needed which will reduce/eliminate squeeze out.
Second; position your work so that gravity can work for you and drip away from your work.
Third; don't try to wipe or clean off excess glue before it hardens.
I've always used a cloth or q-tip "very, very lightly dampened" with acetone. It evaporates very fast - much faster than water - especially if placed in front of a fan.
Of course, you want to make sure not to use so much that it gets into and ruins the glue joint.