I am considering installing a E-classic 2300 OWB but have concerns about chimney draft (flow) requirements. I know that when the forced air "is on" or engaged that this will be a mute point. However, what about when the forced air is not on? Does the firebox depend upon a certain amount of "natural" draft? I have this concern due to the fact that a wood burning stove currently in use--very close to where this OWB will be installed--gets maybe 80% draft needed and thats with a very tall chimney. Thanks in advance for your help on this question!
I think you will find little or no draft is required with the newest E-Classic. The new one can pulse on at intervals the opperator sets.
I have an older model and that needed a little help to keep it lit but the "paper clip trick" was all that was needed.
Thanks for the feedback. It would be a shame to have to rig a paperclip on a brand new OWB that I spent more than $10,000 on. Moreover, if the unit needs to be "pulsing" more often than what the manufacturer has designed, does this mean it will now be less efficient?
I am no expert, but I do not think that the draft requirements are stringent for the E-2300. The furnace runs basically in two modes....1) when the water temperature drops and the furnace is called to increase the water temperature (fans / solenoids cycle on / open) and 2) when the fire is sitting "dormant" without draft as the water temperature is adequate at that time. In both of these instances the bypass door is closed, so the standard draft of any normal fire up and out the chimney does not happen. The only way for there to be an exit from the firebox during the "dormant" stage is for the draft to come from the firebox and down into the reaction chamber and then exit the chimney. As the solenoids are, I beleive, closed at this stage of the cycle, there is little chance of a draft during the dormant stage. I never see smoke during the dormant stage of burning.
I think that you are right...the fans provide the draft. Only in very unusual weather conditions, coupled with a really poor, sheltered locale, would the draft come into play. It may be a factor when you have the fans turned off and are trying to build a fire in the firebox with the bypass open. That isn't necessary very often. My E-2300 was built in March 2009 and I've never needed the magical paper clip.
Doctorb
DoctorB, mine to was built in March of 09. Today while playing with it I found a crack in the reaction chamber. The stove is still working fine but I have been watching for this as it uses the old style chamber that goes right to the bottom. Let your fire die down and clean out the ashes to check yours, Looking down,on top, mine is cracked about five inches long on the left hand side where it's staight not curved. Maybee my dealer will have to change it out and get dirty as it's less than a year old :D
My owners manual say's that you need a draft between -0.02 in.wc and -0.05 in. wc. If not add more sections of chimmeny.
How does this draft requirement (-0.02 to -0.05) compare to a traditional wood burning stove? I'm assuming that it is much lower.
eswsmh-
I cleaned out my reaction chamber yesterday, prior to reading your post, so I did not scrutinize it for cracks. I do have a firebrick that is cracked, but that's not a big deal. I'll shovel and vaccum out the reaction chamber next time to check.
I had read the draft requirements in the manual as quoted above. I don't know how to measure these in any given location.
When you say "looking down" in regard to visualizing the cracks, how do you look down onto the chamber? I take it you can not see this from the side through the removed chamber door? Do you know yet what fix the CB people are providing for this problem? Do they simply replace the whole chamber with a newer design?
Doctorb.
Are we talking fusion combuster or reaction chamber?
You would check draft requirement's with a manometer. To check you will drill and attach a small fitting to clean out at back of flue, attach a hose to fitting, and other end to manometer.
DoctorB , I ment the fusion cumbustor. I cleaned out the main fire box and looked down into the hole. Called the dealer today and he's ordering one for me. Said he had two on order already and was suprised as mine isn't a year old. I'm a furnace guy, If your nasty dirty a$$ oil furnace is cracked ,I don't have to clean it :D (habit is hard to break even at home). Dealer also said it should be the updated part shown in the new manual that was sent out.
The fusion combustor is a free replacement part. You might want your dealer to make sure he has the two refractory panels that surround the fusion combustor as they sometimes break when you remove them. These should be at no cost to you either.