I have a friend that is looking to remodel an older place with a really rustic look. They are looking for a source on a fireplace mantel and dining room table with the bark edge still on. What specie is most likely to hold the bark after treating, and what is the best way to bring this material down in MC? What other questions am I not thinking about?
Greg
Bugs like to live under bark, so a good bug killing is in order before installing the mantel.
We've sawn a number of mantels. A few have been live edge. I'd suggest ERC and peel the bark off. With ERC you don't need to worry about moisture content and it won't shrink and crack like hardwoods.
I'm thinking hardwoods cut in the winter will hold their bark better than cut any other time of the year. But I could have that backwards. I guess if the bark starts to peel off, you could just use something like liquid nails to stick it back on.
Myrtlewood is used quite often with the bark on.
I have a few live edged Sugar Maple slabs that have air dried for several years. Also a a half dozen Black Locust that are stacked and stickered, cut a couple months ago.
I was curious Is there a standard for mantel size?
thickness >?
At least as long as the hearth is wide.
Eight to Ten inches wide (deep) makes a good mantle. Twelve inches is beginning to be unwieldy
Most people make their first ones eight to twelve inches thick. Then they find that they have trouble hanging them. As time goes on, these same people will eventually settle for a thickness of about four inches (or less)
If the mantle is live edge and the curve is turned under (pith to the top) then the mantle looks a lot thicker than it really is and hanging is simplified.
If someone demands a very thick mantel, try to talk them into hollowing it out to get rid of some of the weight, or resting it on stanchions.
Couple years back I had some friends cut me a mantle out of white pine on their Dyna Tech mill. It's 8' X 10" X 16", and yes, considering it was green it was real heavy. We also left the bark on. If I could post a picture, I'd show it to you. Cutting it green and keeping the weather from it helped in keeping the bark on it. Good luck!!
Speaking of mantels just made the computer sing. Just got an order for 75 mantels out of ERC. Specs are all 4 inches thick and one live edge. Minimum 8" up to 11". A wide mantel can always be cut down if the customer wants a narrower one. Lengths are mix 5',6',7',8',10' and 12'. The company wants a wide range of mantels to satisfy a wide need.
First time we have had a big order for mantel. Usually go out 1 or 2 at a time.
Live edge must have some character. I love it when they want character. ERC gots lots. :D
Nice order. That should keep you buisy for a while. Character opens a wide door for creativity which in turn makes sawing fun. That will make one big stack o mantels.
Tripp
I've never tried it but I wonder if this may work..
Saw out a mantle the way you want it i.e. live edge. Then saw off the front face. Then saw the cant down into 1" thick boards. Air dry the whole mess with the best stacking, sticking and weighted down practices for about a year. Then come back and glue the boards back together using some super glue and maybe bolts/screws. Then glue the live face back on.
That's about the only way I can think of to get a hardwood mantle that is dry all the way through and maybe not crack.
Call cracks character and charge more for them. Make people think cracks are special, no 2 lmantels crack alike. Yours will be different from everyone elses. Etc.
This is where a good job of selling takes place.
Bibbyman, your idea would work. With what people charge for mantels, the extra cost shouldn't be an issue.
I've do one or two live-edge mantels each year. Usually the customer wants the bark removed. I always cut mine FOHC and warn the customer that they will bow if he/she gets them too warm for the first couple of years.
Douglas-Fir seems to hold its bark on if you cut it green and seal it after it's dry.