First log, first cut. When I hit the reverse, the powerfeed made a "bad" noise that I had never heard before. Next cut, same noise. I finished the log, took the guards off of the powerfeed sprockets and watched. Yup, slipped...or rather skipped a few links.
Pulled the powerfeed assembly, and sure enough.....worn drive sprocket.
That's when WM service comes into play. Called, all needed parts are in stock, and will be here Wednesday.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0760_%28Custom%29.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0761_%28Custom%29.JPG)
I ordered both sprockets and the necessary bearings and keepers.
I love woodmizer parts
wish I didn't have to buy them
but, in stock, on time, back to cutting
Wow, you can really see the wear on those.
Also, check the chain. Usually the sprockets wear because the chain stretches and rides up on the sprocket teeth.
Good point, but it's 40 miles away on that job. I'll run the sprockets on the chain before I install them. I'll actually measure the chain when I bring the mill back next week. I'm sure that the chain is original and I've put over 4K hours on it. The original owner replaced the hour meter, so it has well over 6K hours.
I've got 21 good SYP logs to saw first. All 24"+..... :)
M_M
Keep a real close eye on your new sprokets with worn chain sometimes they will eat a new sproket fast
It is better to bite the bullet and put new chain on as soon as you can. See what you get for putting all those hours on that mill, "new part". ;D
always replace the chain when replacing sprockets. A saying to live by
Stonebroke
Guess that'll learn you not to use your mill so much! You're plum wearing it out...
Oh, well, as they say around here- the only equipment that doesn't break...
Lj
Gday
Whata doin wearn equipment out like that Mate ;) :D Magic one of me old boses would think i was being a real pita sayn that needed fixn just tighten up the chain more he'd say ;) :) ??? ::) Ive seen plenty worse than that ran an old laimet that had only about 1/8th of the drive tooth left on the sprocket you hat to be realy touchy with the feed and reverse mate ::) ::) ::) :( >:( Quit ;) :D :D :D
Regards Chris
Magicman'
Captain-Crunch is right on. If you use the old chain at all run it loose and watch it closely. The wear i see in your picture definetly shows a lot of chain pitch wear. If the old chain wears the new sprockets, the wear on the new sprockets will shorten the life of a new chain.
I would change the chain now, with the new sprokets.
LEON
Quote from: pigman on April 19, 2010, 09:59:24 PM
Also, check the chain. Usually the sprockets wear because the chain stretches and rides up on the sprocket teeth.
Point well taken, A new chain was ordered and will be here Thursday. When I put it back together,
all parts will be new. Thanks guys for the reminder and advice..... :)
Quote from: Magicman on April 20, 2010, 05:18:12 PM
Quote from: pigman on April 19, 2010, 09:59:24 PM
Also, check the chain. Usually the sprockets wear because the chain stretches and rides up on the sprocket teeth.
Point well taken, A new chain was ordered and will be here Thursday. When I put it back together, all parts will be new. Thanks guys for the reminder and advice..... :)
Right on MM.
When I had a motorcycle, the sprockets got badly worn and when I went to pick up new ones,
the salesman told me that sprockets and chains should be sold in sets.
So I picked up the set.
New sprockets, bearings, keepers, etc. came today. I had to drill and retap the main drive pulley, but no problem. The idler sprocket bearing had slipped on it's shaft, so I had to center punch the shaft a bit and also applied fingernail polish. Not really needed, but now the shaft matches the wife's toes..... :)
The new chain will be in tomorrow, but rain in the forecast means no sawing until next week.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0766.JPG)
The shaft bearings had been slipping on the shaft for a while, cutting the shaft down.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0769.JPG)
I center punched the idler shaft and added nail polish. It won't slip now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0773.JPG)
Two happy power feed sprockets.
Quote from: Magicman on April 21, 2010, 03:38:30 PM
The idler sprocket bearing had slipped on it's shaft, so I had to center punch the shaft a bit and also applied fingernail polish.
Learn something new everyday...I would have used LocTite. Will the parts still come apart easy? May have to add a bottle of that fingernail polish to my repair arsenal.
Actually the center punch "dinging" was enough to tighten it up. They make "Green" bearing race sealant, but at $22.50 per bottle. Nail polish is actually lacquer, and will hold very well. If/when it needs removing, the normal "persuasion" will remove it.
Your ever consider getting your bearings, sprockets, chains from a tractor supply type of store. Up were I live we have a lot of tractor dealers and parts stores and they usually keep stuff like that on hand. And usually(not always) cheaper. Plus you wouldn't have to wait a couple days for parts.
What was suppose to keep the idler from slipping? key, set screw, locking collar?
Good idea on the nail polish. One back thing about about center punching, or at least what I have experienced. Is it will still probably do it again. But then I never tried nail polish :) maybe that's the trick :)
Sure, many items are available locally, especially hoses, etc. In this case, since the sprockets were specialty items, and #40 chain was available only in 10' lengths, there was no decision to make.
I called WM from the job site Monday noon. The parts were in my hands Wednesday AM. If I had ordered the chain then, I would have gotten it today also.
Since I never schedule over 2 days of sawing per week, I just got other stuff done. I'll saw that job next week....or the week after. No I'll be in Florida that week. Hmmm, maybe the week after that.... ;D :D
Florida eh? Well drink some good orange juice so you feel good enough to come back to some hard work :D
Magicman,your welcome to stop by my place and give me some pointers ;D ;D
We won't be down in the Orlando area.....maybe next time....But I don't know which of us will be giving and which will be receiving the "pointers"....... :D
M_M
Glad it is all new at once Thanks for the fingerpolish tip new one on me ::) ::) But guess it would be good idea if it did match your wifes or would be interested in hearing the explanition :o :o :o
Brian
Gday
Magic thats anice trick i havent heard of before Mate ;) 8) 8) 8) 8) i usually either spray paint to seal it or just put a god dab of grease on it when im putting it back together Mate
CC id like to see that expanition too Mate :o :) ??? ::) ;) :D :D :D :D :D :D
Regards Chris
I put every thing back on the mill yesterday. New sprockets, bearings, keepers, shaft, chain, and belt. We ran today until the rain stopped us.
Sometimes, bad things happen to the drive chain like a heavy slab slipping and falling and catching on the chain. I suspect that is what stretches the chain. Some slabs can be quite heavy.
Anyway, I guess that it's good for another 12 years.... :)
or 12 days- you just never know, which is part of what makes it so interesting and frustrating at the same time- seems like I just get one thing fixed and something else breaks or goes wrong- noticed today that apparently when we installed the permanent legs on my stationary mill, we didn't spacer up the last two sets. Been cutting pretty heavy logs last few days and look down the log as it the saw was cutting and there was a pronounced downhill slope toward the far end- never noticed it on the lighter wood but the fresh SYP I just loaded on was full of water and heave! First few cuts at the top were fine, but as I got toward the middle of the log (I was aware of the problem by now and watching to see if happened again), sure enough the far end started sagging. My guess is that as the boards on top were freed from the log, their weight was now free to push down on the far end. With the log intact, the weight was spread out pretty evenly. Last couple of boards ended up real thin on the far end- messed up the bottom three boards. DanG it all!
So tomorrow I'll have a shot at leveling up the legs and bed so it cuts straight and smooth on the bigger logs, too. Then wait to see what breaks after that...
At least I got the mill area cleaned up finally- all the backlog cut, waste cleared out and burned, and the random pieces of slabs I was "saving" for something standing around the ends of the mill cleaned and stacked- nice to have everything clean for a change. That'll change quick also.
Lj
Lon, I may not be following your train of thought, but are you sure that your trouble with the big SYP log was not stress being relieved as you took boards off? Sometimes the cant will raise up, move sideways, or stress downward. That will cause thinning on either end or the center if it bows up. I've even had cants to pop loose from the log clamp.
Use at least a 4' level to determine if in fact the mill is not level.
I'm pretty sure it's the bed bending down- I can actually see it after I finished cutting the two big and heavy logs I described- went from flat to downward curved as I went down with each cut (leaving all the boards stacked up). The curve was almost an inch- in fact, on the last cut on the last log, I raised the head to bring the blade up just over the end of the top board and as I brought it back, it bottomed out. Repeated to get an idea of the bend- about 1" from end to the middle...
Lj
:o You must be badly unsupported to actually bend a WM frame..... :o I'm just trying to visualize how that would be possible.
Not so much badly supported as well-anchored at the other end. Legs are bolted into the concrete and I just checked again this morning- sure enough the last two legs don't actually touch the pad. Must be a quarter inch or more under one and the other a little less. Remember that the combined weight of the log and the head is pretty great so I must be flexing the bed down and then the clamp plus the weight keep it flexed. I'll put some shims under and that should fix that....
Lj
You are just a regular Sherlock Holmes..... smiley_idea Good luck with the fix..... smiley_thumbsup
I also had a little trouble today , sawing away & noticed blade guide power retractable arm doing a jerking motion not smooth like it should be .Shut mill down & operated & it was quite noticable & could hear some snapping. Took off little dust shield & soon found the problem, broken teeth on the drive gear on motor, seems strange these teeth would brake off, anybody else have this happen? . So I guess I get to phone WM in the morning & order some parts, but I was lucky enough to finish the job for the day!
Dave
Gotta love WM , parts were on the bus & here in the next province in 24 hrs later, can't beat that for service!...
Dave
P.S. Hope you don't mind me adding to your thread Magicman, it was related so just thought instead of starting new one ::).. Take care
Quote from: customdave on April 27, 2010, 09:28:10 PM
P.S. Hope you don't mind me adding to your thread Magicman, it was related so just thought instead of starting new one ::).. Take care
That's what threads are for.....welcome. We learn from each other...... :)
Did you need a press to push the shaft out of the housing and old bearing?
I'm afraid I'll bend the plate if I use a puller...
Dan, I don't remember but since I did all of the tear down and reassembly at the job site, I could not have done much more than tapping everything out with a hammer. Maybe an overnight soaking with Bluecreeper will help.