Hey all...
Tonight I stopped by my grandparents to mow their yard, and left with a chainsaw. It was my grandpa's, and he can't use it anymore.
All I know about it, is that it is a Lombard, and it says "Comango" on the side, and that's about it. It's orange/red with about a 20" bar. It has what looks like very early anti-vibration mounts, and says "anti-vibe" on the side.
I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow. Does anyone know about these?
Thanks,
Ty
Here's some specs and a couple pictures from Mike Acre's website.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/b8fde16e354aba6788256c5a00107e74?OpenDocument
There's a footnote that says something about 'pictures courtesy of Al Smith. Might that be somebody we know? ???
This saw is a take off of a Homelite xl 12 I believe .This model of Homelite if I have the correct model was one of the most copied saws ever made .
The comango is just one model of the al-42 series .Al 42 standing for American Lincoln .Comango was given to this model as a name submitted for a promotional contest put on by Lombard ---Command and go ---
4.2 cubic inch engine ,4 pedal metal reed valve desiign.One piece connecting rod ,triple open transfer ports .
These were considered as fast saws in their day and still do pretty good considering .Fact is mine will pretty much keep up with a Stihl 042 .
Now the short side .These are known seal leakers .As such unless you are positive the seals are in excellant shape never never "open " one up .In other words tune it for max power . I have three examples of what they look like after a lean sieze sitting my shed along with two runners .
Some later models had automatic oilers which were of the impulse pressure design and leaked into the crank case causing them to double as mosquito foggers .
Good old saws with limitations is about all I can add .
Added thought .It was the orange colored saw in the link to chainsaw collectors corner that got me interested in restoring old saws .
I wheeled and dealed at a garage sale for that thing ,25 bucks .Had it running 15 minutes after I bought it . 8)
yes, it's a homelite xl 12 (I have one) marked Lombard.
Perhaps so in Italy .However the xl-12 Homelite is 3.55 cu inches and the Lombard Camango,Lightning, Lightning II ,al-42 etc. is 4.2 cubic inches . Looks the same as the Homey but the Lombard has much more power . BTW Remington also make an XL-12 take off .
It may look like a Homelite, but having cut with them, bought out 2 old lombard dealers, and talking to old time loggers who used to swear by them I'd say the Lombards definitely are different animals.
Thanks for the info guys! Now if/when I run this saw, can I use regular 50:1 mix...or should I do something like 16:1?
Well ,it's your saw and run whatever mix ratio you want .However being first "old school " plus the fact that 90 percent of hotsaw racers run 32 to 1 that is what I would recommend . Of course due to the fact of the never ceasing oil wars no doubt a few will chime in on that opinion . :D
You can run 16-1 if you can find some old oil refined back in 1967 to mix at that ratio. Today's two cycle mix oils have much better lubrication. Use the same mix you use in the rest of your saws. I'm assuming you use the same mix in all your air cooled two cycle equipment?
Rocky_J you beat me to that...now the only thing I can say is try and find some crude oil... :D
Rocky_J, yes I run all 2 cycle at 50:1. although I might switch to 32:1 soon...
I have heard, although the veracity I am not sure of, but is it true if you use "more" 2-stroke oil than what is called for that it can actually increase internal combustion temps/exhaust temps? Has anyone else heard anything like that? ???
I don't know about all that heat from too much oil business other than it would smoke like it's burning pine knots .
To cut to the chase ,sure it should run on 50 to one if you so desired .However as I have mentioned these are known leakers .Rather than take the chance of cooking the engine just use a tad more oil or change the seals right out of the chute . I mean we're talking like vintage 1968 here .
Seal replacement is not a big deal .This saw unlike the world famous Stihl which uses one of a kind OEM seals .This one uses standard SAE sized made in the US of A seals available at any good bearing supply house .Probabley for a paltry 5 bucks a seal not the usual 20 bucks a pop of which the orange and white variety are exremely proud of .
Big Al is right on the seals if you can't find a number on the seals get your calipers and measure and note the type of lip on the seal.Last couple of Huskies I've resealed got the seals from a bearing supply house.Seals as bearings are basically metric with some converted to inch measurements.Frank C.
I don't know if they are metric or not .The things were made in Canada I think or maybe Cleveland because several facilities made them .With the time period I would imagine it to be all SAE sized but it might have a freak metric bearing stuck in it .
Somewhere in my shed I have a box with several Comangos in various stages of disrepair that if I get time I'll investigate as to the seal numbers .I also have the IPL that I can't seem to find for some reason . I've been going to forward a copy of it to Lewis Brander for some time now but the thing eludes me .
To the question boobap asked, if someone were to run a lower ratio of gas to oil, say 32:1 or 16:1, and not retune your carb, wouldnt this make the engine run lean? With less fuel to oil, you are burning less fuel than if running 50:1, therefore lean running engine, right? And this would then increase the engine and exhaust gas temperature over normal, or at least as I understand it.
:D Well I suppose one could use that as a point of debate or at least several have in the past .Never the less no matter what the gas/oil ratio is the carb still has to be dialed in .For that matter if the temperature drops in winter it has to be tweeked a little too . Unless of course you have a fixed main jet carb which is not the case on this Lombard in qustion .
One gentleman liked to point out in terms of mathmatics that actually 40 to one was in essence some other ratio but we ignored him most of the time which annoyed the dickens out of him . 8)
dont know beans about the saw ...but i do have old sign from dealer about 3by 5 ft. if remember saw is colored blue like homelite ,has rocketship...says something like saw of the future..or space age technology will have to look again,,anyone seen one of these?
Im pretty sure that Ive read some debate on that here before Al, was why I brought it up. Id agree that properly tuned this shouldnt make any difference.
Oh that debate has been here,there ,every where .Some people get kind of testy about it .Kind of like the great oil debate :D My oil is better than your oil,ya know thing . ;) I try not to crank them up too much being such a mild mannered type myself . 8)
Ya its not something that needs all that much debate, nor argument, but a point to consider at least.
I was asking strictly from the lubrication side of things :D
Today's modern oils (especially the synthetics) will lubricate better at 50-1 than the old oils from 50 years ago would lubricate at 16-1. That is why you see today's saws capable of running for 5-10 years or more in commercial use (with proper maintenance, of course). 50 years ago the engines wouldn't last for that many hours of use due to inadequate lubrication. The oils simply weren't good enough back then. That's why the mix ratios were set so high.
Even car and truck motors wouldn't last but 50-60,000 miles. The odometers only went to 99,999 and if you had a car that had 'turned over' the odometer then it was pretty much guaranteed to be worn out. Today's cars are just getting broken in at 100K miles and the difference is better lubrication- the oils are better.
Quote from: JohnG28 on May 10, 2010, 03:59:59 PM
To the question boobap asked, if someone were to run a lower ratio of gas to oil, say 32:1 or 16:1, and not retune your carb, wouldnt this make the engine run lean? With less fuel to oil, you are burning less fuel than if running 50:1, therefore lean running engine, right? And this would then increase the engine and exhaust gas temperature over normal, or at least as I understand it.
yes, though the amount of change is small. a saw already running on the edge of lean could be pushed too far if the oil:fuel ratio is richened w/o a corresponding adjustment in tuning.
You wouldn't burn the danged thing up if the carb was adjusted right even if you ran it at 10 to one .Might need a gas mask though .
Where in the world did this idea come from any way ????
Oh my ,you know I'm 62 years old and have ran a jag of saws with gas to oil ratios ranging from 16 to 1 to 50 to 1 and as of yet I've never managed to burn up a saw .Maybe I'm doing something wrong all this time . :D---or there area lot of people out there that don't know beans from apple butter about tuning a carb ---
Well I would say not burning up any saws is a good thing. As to all the debate, I doubt that anyone is going to kill their saw because of the fuel/oil ratio, unless someone decides to run 75:1 or 100:1. Id say that there are a lot more things that an inexperienced or unknowledgable user will do to kill a saw before too much oil does. We dont need to argue over what any specific person does with their equipment, they can do as they like.
My neighbor can kill anything with a two cycle motor in 6 months or less. He refuses to believe me when I tell him to just use one can of mix gas for all his two cycle stuff. He has 7 different mix cans with dozens of little bottles of various brands of mix oil. The cans sit outside under an overhang but exposed to the humidity and all the gas is stale. He doesn't know which can is for which piece of equipment. Half the time when he can't get something to run, I can fix it by dumping the gas and refilling it out of my can.
I cant imagine any gas left outside down there would be fresh long at all, up here either for that matter. Humidity, dew, rain, all that good stuff that does wonders to kill an engine.