I have never seen a barber chair, if I am lucky I never will. I read here about maybe about wrapping the tree with a chain, but, to me that seems like playing with a grenade since anything less than 7/16 or 1/2 would probably explode with a normal sized tree and all the leverage and weight. I would guess unless you had it VERY tight it would be useless.
I have a tree on the side of my driveway I have left alone because I want to clear all the brush away from it and cut all the ivy vines away before I even attemp anything with the tree, including trimming branches. It grew at a 30+/- degree angle, but, is diseased near the top. It starts straight and then starts the bend only five feet off the ground.
It is about 14 inches dbh and not too big at all, but, any tree that can fling a saw back at you is big enough. I just want to see some videos and stuff so I know exactly what it is.
Here's a little info on the cuts you can use.
http://web.cocc.edu/logging/aclinks/barberch.html
Barber Chair
The splitting of the butt of the log during the latter part of the fall. The tree often remains attached to the stump, thus creating a danger zone and ruining much of the log.
Can be caused by a Dutchman notch or a leaning tree.
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.osha-slc.gov%2FSLTC%2Fetools%2Flogging%2Fmanual%2Ffelling%2Fcuts%2Fdangers%2Fbarberchair.jpg&hash=ca474086d6119313ed9cce57d7c7975064db78ea)
14"DBH isn't a lot but you should be able to plunge cut it after making the notch, leave a hinge ...then pull the bar out and cut the strap at the back and down she comes.
Always plunge with the bottom of the bar nose and not the top.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/plunge.JPG)
Why do they call it a barberchair?
If you cut it just wrong with a high stump, it will look like a high-back chair, the kind you might find in a barbershop.
When the tree splits the remaining stump resembles a barbers chair with a high back.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/barberchair.JPG)
Kevin, did you draw those? Pretty good. :)
That's my doodling.
I like the one of the plunge cut.
When we were at moultrie, the Husky folks put on sawing lessons and safety lessons. The one that was going on while we were gathering was on plunge cutting when felling. The sawyere cut a hinge that was about 1/8th inch thick on the stump that they had for exhibiting. Then he cut the center out of that hinge. When he cut the strap at the back of the tree he could move the upper portion, representing the tree, by hand to show how the hinge worked. That's some "fine tuned" chainsaw work. :D
Kevin,
I think you missed your calling :)
Gus
theres a barber chair where i hunt thats about 15' high.
Here's another illustration of the plunge or bore cut from a top view...
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/plungecut.JPG)
Kevin, is there a safe(ish) way to practice that cut? I'd like to try it out on a stump or two, but driving a chainsaw straight in like that scares the fish out of me.
Try to cut where the wood has no defect, firm grip,sharp chain, wide open throttle, use only the bottom nose of the bar to make the bore.
Once through the tree you can use the top of the bar to even out the cut but keep the upper half of the nose away from wood.
So you wind up swinging the saw into parallel, cutting with the bottom of the nose, rather than "plunging"?
That's right.
The bore cutting method that Kevin has brought to light is probably the safest under most circumstances and gives you all of the time you need to "adjust" your hinge for problems with lean or anything else while still having significant holding wood. Then when you want to cut the holding wood, you`re already heading in the right direction to get to a safe area away from the butt should it kick back or roll.
Nice job Kevin!
Russ
On cutting the strap:
I been taught to always cut the strap below the backcut, an inch or two down on the stump. This makes sure your saw doesn't go over with the tree if you cut your strap to high.
On a tree with a lot of lean things can start moving fast and you may not get the saw out of the cut if its caught.
Ian
At or slightly below is good.
2" is a bit too much in my opinion.
It's the same when cutting limbs up in the tree, directly above the bottom cut or slightly back so the the limb doesn't hold the bar and take you to the ground.
It's usually a chain width.
The hinge that is left should be enough to support the entire weight of the tree (Tom's demonstration of 1/8" seems a bit slim to do that IMO). If the hinge is cut too thin, and the wood compresses under the weight of the leaning tree, you will have a pinched bar and be caught in the cut. Also, not cutting a hinge parallel to the undercut may get you in trouble with a pinched bar too. Then the danger level increases, as you may have a tree that you have to leave (to get another tool, such as another saw or an axe), and that tree may be on the verge of falling - fast or very quickly. Not trying to 'hype' the situation, but just passing on some first-hand knowledge. :-[
Note that some 'safety anti-kickback chains' have links that make plunge cutting slow at best or impossible. Just in case someone is having problems with the plunge cut. I find if the saw is reved up and with a firm grip, the tip will cut into the wood without kicking out. But expect the worst and be in a position that you are holding the saw that it can't kick and get you. Kneeling with the saw and the intended cut at or near your shoulder is not the way to do it. IMO
Great pictures and discussion.
I wasn't there but the way Tom explained it the guy was just doing a demo and had to cut the hinge to 1/8" to demonstrate the action taking place.
In real life it's much different and I'm sure the guy doing the demo made it clear at the time.
The bore cut is the best thing since sliced bread for fine tuning the hinge. I also bore when bucking logs on uneven terrain and bore cut treetops off with a cut called the tongue and groove, which prevents the log or top from twisting or falling.
Unfortunately the information on this thread is coming out in little bits and pieces which could get a novice hurt badly. Kevin's illustration of a bore cut I believe came out of "Production Felling Through Safety" "A guide to proper technique in tree felling". The book devotes about 4 pages to this one cut. This book is the training material for the Game of Logging. You might be able to get a copy of the book by calling GOL at 1-888-887-8867. The 32-page book goes through the entire procedure of felling a tree. Even with the book it would be risky for a novice to attempt some of the cuts and procedures. It would be far better to seek out a mentor to demonstrate the cuts or better yet take GOL training.
I got a big yard maple to cut this week so I'll take some pics of the bore and hinge and let you guys critique my technique.