We are thinking about building a 30'x40'x12' "pole barn". The lumber we have thought about using for the siding is KD Yellow Poplar. Would a shaper and some v-groove carbide bits, do the job, for making about 2,000 board feet of barn siding?
V-Paneling Cutter PC-19-010
1-1/4 inch bore, carbide tipped, use with 3/4 - 1 inch material
Around here they use board and batten . We lazey 8)
Hi luke.
I think T&G edges will rot faster than Ship Lap with Batten.
Poplar is OK but It's no White Oak, most other Oaks, Hemlock. I think I would use SYP and have it pressure treated ($.10 to .15 bf) , before using Poplar.
But since it is kiln dried ??? I guess it's what you have readily on hand.
And keep it away from the ground if possible..
JIM
I vote for plank and batten but using poplar I'd go for some deep eaves and some treated wood for a skirt--don't let that tulip wood touch the ground, it'll get et in no time!
But...poplar makes excellent siding if kept dry. The grainery where I'm working is weatherboarded in 3/4 x 6 poplar, unfinished...from the 1860's, as are many of the local homes of that period.
I was preparing today some poplar that was sawn 60 years ago. It was stickered in a barn to dry and was intended for drop lap, the round tuits never came round :D. The powderpost beetles had been tuit so I gave it a libation of borates and will apply a water repellant finish.
I've got the 2 piece set of router v-groove T&G bits, used them for making soffits. I had a devil of a time getting the T into the G...too tight a fit. Finally made a fence on the handheld router and with a straight bit shaved a little of the backside of the T to let it slip in easier.
Don.P,
true, poplar has been used for siding for many years. I painted a early 1900's two story Victorian home that had poplar beveled siding on it. And yes keep it dry, a nice sized overhang, with borate for the bugs, and wood preservative, should make it last a while longer. The reason I suggested tonge & groove or v-groove is, I have seen some local sheds, with board and batten siding on them, and they look cheap. If I build a pole barn, I want it to "increase" the value of my property, so that when I have it appraised, it will appraise for more money.
I know that the "deluxe" pole barn package you can buy from 84 lumber will look good with the painted steel, it would cost about $10,000.00 for a deluxe 30'x40'x12' with insulation and electrical wiring. I wonder which pole barn would raise the "value" of your property more, the one from 84 lumber, or one hand custom built?
Oh yes
Metal makes a nice side also. Also Used/repainted.
Fire proof also,,helps stop fire spread like from a grass fire.
JIM
Luke,
I agree with the previous posts...tongue and groove will just trap moisture. All of my buildings are board and batten. Rough sawed with a circular mill
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