I have one of the old woodmizer single tooth setters for setting the teeth on my bandmill blades prior to sharpening. Been watching the threads by bibby and others on the new dual tooth setter. I don't mind sharpening blades but setting them one tooth at a time is a pain. Yesterday I was stareing at the setter thinking how nice a dual tooth setter would be. It clamps the blade between two metal blocks and pushes a bolt against the tooth to bend it. Aha !! why not put the tooth against the bolt and push the blade?? You need one piece of 3/8 X 1 bar stock 2 1/2 inches long, 2 inch piece of 3/8 threaded rod and a 3/8 bolt and nut. Drill and tap 1 3/8 hole and one 3/4 hole in the bar stock.Drill and tap one 3/8 hole in the fixed block. Round off one end of the threaded rod using a grinder. There are 2 spring loaded cap screws in the movable block. Remove them. Assemble like this
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/setter1.jpg)
Here's a top view
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/setter2.jpg)
Loosen the bolt and move the added block to adjust for 1 inch or 7/8 tooth spacing.
Takes some tweaking to get everything adjusted, but it works like a charm.
That's too easy! there must be something wrong with it!! Nice work.
Piney, what clamps the two bars togather?My setter is very much like yours has two pivoting jaws operated with a toggle, only I used two round head plow bolts to push the set in and have a way to clamp the band.I to hate to set one at a time now I can set two bands in the time it takes to sharpen one. Frank C.
real good piney,
is all that just a mod to your single tooth setter? how did you get the bolt on the back to set the tooth to the right pitch? will the dial indicator fit back on it? i want to do this to mine so thanks for the idea.
the more i look at it the more i think you are a genius. i got most of it figured out except how did you get the right set?
this shoud deffinitly go on bibbys usefull sawmill mods.
i love the forestery forum. pc
quote " i got most of it figured out except how did you get the right set? "
--- tweaking, tweaking, tweaking??? :) :) :) ---
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Charles sling_shot
what i meant was,
did you use a mic on the blade to determine you had put the correct set in or did you adjust your bolts,anvils, to a certain thousandths or guess or what? pc
I'm interested in this mod also. I have a setter like this and being able to set both at once
will eliminate having to turn the blade hind parts afore to get the other side. ;D
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me too. maybe pineywoods took the weekend off.
i would like to see more pics and maybe one with a blade in it. this mod could save a lot of us some considerable time.
can you check the set in a tooth with a micrometer?pc
Looks like Piney left us a teaser :D
Quote from: paul case on November 07, 2010, 02:57:34 PM
i would like to see more pics and maybe one with a blade in it. this mod could save a lot of us some considerable time.
Ditto for me. I have a Cat Claw from Cook. With pics maybe I could figure out how to modify mine. So get off the porch, Piney, and enlighten us. ;D ;D
Bob
Well piney if you start making and selling low cost we might all buy one from you. brian
Maybe I need to explain things a little better. This a cheap mod to a woodmizer single tooth setter. To answer your questions, yes the dial indicator will still fit, but you don't really need it. It would only show the set on the teeth on one side, not both. I use a dial calipher to measure set. clamp the calipher over a bent tooth, subtract the blade thickness from that reading to get the actual set. This is how I set up the setter. First off, the linkage between the operator handle and the movable block needs to be such that the handle, when fully depressed, hits the stop at the same time the movable block clamps the blade tightly. (yes, that linkage is adjustable) THEN adjust the setting bolt to push the tooth over the desired amount. This way, the handle is depressed all the way to the stop on every tooth, giving the same amount of set every time. I found it fairly easy to adjust the added set bolt by eyeball, then remove the blade and measure the tooth, only took a couple of trys to get the set in both directions DanG close to 25 thou. Much more accurate than depending on the dial gauge on every tooth. Someone commented that there must be something wrong, this looked too simple. I thought the same thing, but it only took a couple of hours to cobble up the parts, so why not. I did encounter one problem. There are 2 hex head cap screws sticking out of the movable bar on the side next to the blade. They are spring loaded. If you don't remove them, the added set bolt does not work reliably, the amount of set will vary between different blades. More pics tomorrow.
H'mmm very interesting Piney, I'll be waiting for more pics!!!
Dave
OK guys, sorry for the delay. Here's a couple more pics and an update.
Overhead view with a blade in the setter. The shiney pieces are the added parts. The body of the blade is being pushed against the protruding setter bolt, thereby bending the tooth
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/setter3.jpg)
Another view with a blade in place. Again, the shiney pieces are the added parts. Just a block of metal with a 3/8 bolt holding it to the back side of the fixed block, and a piece of threaded rod with a locknut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/setter4.jpg)
I kinda held off on replies until I had a chance to really try this thing out. I have set a bunch of different blades, some old .032, some .042, some .045, and even a 1 1/2 inch .055. Sharpend them all and sawed some knotty pine logs. I'm tickled pink. It works. I have never been able to get my re-set re-sharpend blades to cut as smooth as a new blade using the dial indicator. Always some tooth marks on the board. Not any more. the boards come off looking almost like they had been planed. As simple as this modification is, I don't understand why somebody hadn't done it long ago.
Looks great and works great what more does a country boy need.
Spring in the band is the big bugaboo in setting I think the accuracy comes from clamping the body of the band before pushing in the set.Frank C.
well i cheaped out and did it. today was too cold to stay out for very long so instead of sawing much i did odd jobs and fixed up my cheapo version of piney's setter mod.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20540/2953/SANY0042_%283%29.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20540/2953/SANY0044_%282%29.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20540/2953/SANY0043.JPG)
i just set one band in about 3 minutes and i will try it out in the morning. it will take some getting used to. ya know with all the extra time i will have maybe i could sit down and write pineywoods a thank you card.
it didnt take very much adjusting to get the right amoutof set on each tooth even though i had to take the band out to check it.looking back i could have just left it in there i guess. so far so good
Member and friend JSNH has some pictures of my dual tooth setter and two plain log turner and clamp in his photo section, works basically the same as pineys except uses a toggle.Sorry I'am not up to speed with this picture thing myself. Frank C.
Frank, I am not very computer savvy, but with the Juploader Jeff put on here for uploading pictures, it's not that hard. It's way simpler than it used to be as it resizes the pictures for you. I'm confident you can get it, and I want to see your operation ;) Piney, if I had a setter to mod, I would do your mod on it :)
if i had known that i could get the setting done with a clamp (vise) and 2 bolts and nuts and check with a caliper i wouldnt have bought a setter. pc
PC, you done good, but I see 2 things that may csuse you some trouble.
1. you need to take the new setter bolt to a grinder and round off the business end. Look at the original bolt for reference.
2. Welding the nut to the fixed block might not be such a good idea. That limits you to one size tooth spacing. That's why I bolted mine. I can loosen the bolt and move the setter bolt to change to a different tooth spacing. Won't be a problem if all your blades are the same.
So far, mine is working better than I ever hoped. One thing I plan to do is lengthen the handle to get a little more leverage. Them .055 blades are hard to bend.
Quote from: paul case on December 14, 2010, 06:10:08 PM
if i had known that i could get the setting done with a clamp (vise) and 2 bolts and nuts and check with a caliper i wouldnt have bought a setter. pc
Hmmm, now that's a thought. Cheap vise, 2 bolts and 2 nuts, plus a little welding = dual tooth setter. Replace the vise handle with a crank.....but I already have a setter...
pineywoods,
my wm singe tooth (now dual)has a screw type clamp. works real well. pc
my band setter did a great job!
it is just as piney says . it is set as close to original as i have ever been able to do. i think it stayed sharp longer because the set was even. thanks again piney.
now for you fellas that don have a setter,it would be a lot simpler to make one than you may think. a bench vise could be modified to set them. the caliper i bought to check the set only cost $20. just thinking. pc
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19476/100_1752.JPG)
I modified my single tooth setter into a two tooth setter. Quite easy, used part of the indexing pawl that wouldn't be needed, a left over bolt, and a couple inches of welding rod. Works very well, and is so much faster. Thanks for the idea Piney!
Well I finished my Pineywoods dual tooth setter mod today. Only thing I did different is I put the dial indicator back on the left side and offset it a little so I could check the set while I tweeked things.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37117/IMG_1980.JPG)
Nice job! Did mine too about two months ago, so much faster!
OK, but why stop there. The jaw looks long enough, why not 4 tooth (two each side)? Then your setting time will cut in half again!
Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 13, 2015, 07:59:54 PM
OK, but why stop there. The jaw looks long enough, why not 4 tooth (two each side)? Then your setting time will cut in half again!
Left, right, Raker. If you try to set 4 at a time you're gonna have some issues there...
Just got home from visiting bushhog920' s setup. He has a brand new cook's dual tooth setter and oh my oh my...super nice....I've got the single tooth setter and will probably never use it again. He's about 10 miles down the road and I can sharpen mine and swing by and set my teeth with his....cuts your time in 1/2 at least....but wow its $$$$
Another resurrection of an old topic,
I am in the process of turning my single tooth setter into the #pineywoods dual tooth setter.
I purchased a micromontor to measure the set of the teeth. I have never owned one before. I measured my blades from the back, and it tells me my blades are .056 thickness, i only ever buy blades .045. Is it me or the unit?
I have tried the unit on drill bits and it is accurate for a1/8 drill bit, 0r 3/8 , any size it is accurate, but on the blade from the back it shows .055 or .056 or there abouts. Not what i was expecting. When I measure the set of the tooth, I get .075 or there about.
Is it me, or is it the unit? I have tried measuring new blades with the same result
Do you still have the box the blades came in?
If so, what does it say?
I always thought that the set was the amount the tip was pushed over.
If it is set .075" and it is an .045" blade I do not think it will saw very well,
however I've never tried to saw with that kind of a set-up.
Something does not sound right.
GAB
I called Brian from Woodmizer Canada, he tells me I only have ever bought .045 blades. I have never bought .055.
If I deduct the .075 from the .055 I get a .020 set, which is what I like on the hardwood blades, a 9 degree blade.
When I check my older 10 degree blades I get a reading around .082 which would mean i have a set of .027 , which is good for sawing white pine.
is it possible the inch scale on the meter is wrong? did the little guy from China have the wrong numbers in it?
This is bugging me to no end. I have been measuring everything ... ::)
Dirt, sap, rust, etc on the blade will throw the reading off. What's important is the difference between the blade thickness and the tooth. Sounds like yours are right on.
Thanks pineywoods, thats what i'm thinking.
Accept what I have and get on with making the dual tooth setter.
It sounds like your micrometer needs zeroed out. I just use a cheap digital caliper from Harbor Freight. It's kind of a pain to measure set this way, but it works. I just zero the digital caliper out on the thickness of the blade, then I can measure the set tooth directly without doing math in my head. This is good, because math in my gead doesn't work so well😁
I agree. I will zero out the callipers on the blade and then measure the set. I hope to install the extra tooth setter this week.
I wanted to upgrade all my sharpening equipment, but in the great white north, we don't get the sale on sharpeners and setters.
I will upgrade my setter and order in a CBN grinder.
You Canucks get it stuck to you a lot. I cringe whenever I see your prices, I was looking at Eastonmade log splitters made up in Canada somewhere, and the price in Canadian dollars for you vs. in U.S. dollars for me was very signifigant. More than $1000 on a $4K machine if I remember correctly.
Oh yes we do Barbender,
when the dollar was close to par, I bought a new truck in Pennsylvania and brought it north along with a new Honda ATV. I saved 10,000 Canadian on the truck and 2500 on the ATV. Honda would not recognize the warranty in Canada, but Toyota would recognize the warranty. We had lots of uproar along the borders up here and in the northern states, among the dealers and manufactures.
Free trade was good as long as it was manufactures and dealers and such benefiting , but as soon as the little guy got to reap some benefits...LOOK OUT,, not allowed.