Picked this one up over the weekend... it's a Craftsman 112-1901, which from what I've read is a Parks 95 planer... 12"x4" capacity. I still haven't figured out how old it is...
It was advertised without a motor. When I went to pick it up, the owner told me he had removed the old 5hp motor and kept it, because it matched the old motor on his Belsaw planer. For what I paid, I guess I can't complain. It came with a well-made welded metal stand, and an Allen-Bradley relay.
I'd been sorta looking for a 12" planer – and this one will compliment my Mobile Dimension sawmill very well (max cut on my MD mill in one pass as it's set up right now is 4"x12"). Once I get it running, this Craftsman / Parks will replace the Ryobi AP10 I've been using the past couple of years.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/craftsman_parks_planer1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/craftsman_parks_planer2.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/craftsman_parks_planer3.jpg)
-Norm.
I have one that looks just like that one, rust and all. I havn't used it in 10 years. It has a 1 hp motor on it that weighs about 100 lbs.
Well, looks like you have a couple belts and the motor mount is in tact.
I wonder if 3 HP is lots. That's what we used on conveyors loaded with potatoes on an incline and 25-30 feet long or so. So 3 HP has lots of power.
Probably need new knives, eh?
Hey Pigman, that motor would make a good anchor at least. ;)
Thanks guys,
Swamp – I found some old manuals for this planer online – they say use a 1-1/2 to 3hp motor... I think I have a 2hp kicking around, I've got to check and make sure that it's a 1750 rpm motor – but if it is, it's probably what I'll use for now.
-Norm.
I had one of those years ago, served me well and never gave me a moments trouble.
One suggestion is to look up ESTA disposablade and switch to inserts. I use the cobalt steel inserts in my jointer and they wear very well, but most importantly, there is zero setup time at blade changes. Mine had jack screws, so I assume yours does too. With the disposablades you only have to get the perfect setup once as the blades are always at the same height, and the cost of the blades is barely more than the cost of sharpening. Saves about 30-45 minutes every change, and if you are planing some dirty wood it only takes about 5 minutes to throw in some old blades.
Thanks Just Me, I'll have to look those inserts up... sounds like a good deal. The head on mine does not have the jackscrews – from what I've seen, that was only on later ones, maybe mid 1950's and beyond... as far as I can tell, this one is from between 1938 and 1948...
Thanks,
-Norm.
Nice machine Norm. You will want to spin that head about 3600 rpm.
Joe
I've put jackscrews in machines that do not have them, well worth what little effort it takes, especially if you switch to inserts. Have to take the head out, but that is never a problem. Drill parallel to the surface that the knife clamps to and tap is all. I found the allen screws I wanted in McMaster-Carr.
Thanks guys, for the info.
I've got this machine mostly apart now (gearbox off, all the shafts and tie rods off, but I haven't removed the table or unbolted the three main castings), and I'm trying to decide if I'm going to completely restore it, paint, etc. or if I'm just going to clean it and put it back together. Here's some pics of the progress...
The gearbox looked pretty good when I first took the cover off...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/parks_gear_box_before1.jpg)
Here's the planer with the gearbox removed... the outfeed shaft was a bugger to get off! Somewhere along the way, the setscrew on the 12-tooth sprocket (A4) had spun and buggered up the shaft to one side of the D, so it made getting that 12-tooth sprocket and both shaft collars really hard to get off. I ended up moving the sprocket to one side and filing the burrs on the shaft in place, inside the gearbox... in order to get everything off.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/craftsman_parks_gearbox_off1.jpg)
The home-made angle iron stand cleaned up nicely with a wire wheel on a angle grinder...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/parks_stand_wire_wheeled1.jpg)
and it is now primed, despite the temperature in my shop (and I now have installed a bigger heater in my shop)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/parks_stand_primed1.jpg)
I got the shafts and the tie rods out, and cranked the table up to the top so I could go at it with a maroon Scotchbrite on a random orbital sander. It's cleaning up nicely, I like the patina...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/15714/parks_bed_scotchbrite1.jpg)
My gut and the amount of time I have available tells me I'll probably just give it a good cleaning and lube and put it back together. I already got new bearings for the cutterhead, but I need to either fix or replace the table roller bearings and the table rollers... they were really let go, and the bearing surfaces of both rollers are worn to a taper at one end. I did get in touch with the company in Kentucky that still makes all the parts for these Parks / Craftsman planers, so it's just a matter of money.
Just Me, when you drilled and tapped the cutterhead, did you drill blind holes, or go all the way through? Did you get the head balanced afterwards? Just curious.
Thanks,
-Norm.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?156036-FS-Restored-Parks-Planer
Here is one on Sawmill Creek for sale just for reference.
I drilled blind holes using V blocks and was careful to do a symetrical drill pattern and keeping all of the depths the same. Didn't create any vibration.
I have just finished reworking my 112 1901 Craftsman Planer and am very pleased with the job it does. I installed a new 5 HP, 3450 RPM motor on it
and I really don't think its too much. I used it all day yestarday and the only
problem I have is the seals on the gear box. If you own one of these you have
realized that the gear box is floating,it does not attach to the base frame.
I assume it is designed this way to allow the gear box to float as you make up and down adjustments on the shafts that are driven by the gear box. The member that posted pictures and coments about reworking his planer could
list the companys name that he located in Kentucky I wpuld really appreciate
it.
Thanks, John4601
Had one like that for years, good machine, mine had a 5 hp which is REALLY nice. it is a bit slow but a nice machine. I can recall a number of ones I have seen popping out of feed mode, a bungee on the lever will fix that. Also the dripping gear lube is typical, there is no real seal on that shaft other than felt (I beliieve).
Ironwood