So I want to add some Toe Boards to my Norwood and have 3 rollers that I picked up at the scrap yard a while ago. The only problem is they have a hex shaft instead of a round one. I need to find a way to make a hexagon hole in a piece of 1/2" plate to mount the rollers. If I had a lathe, it would be easy. I would make the shafts round. So, put your thinking caps on, how would you do it?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10927/444/IMG_4999.JPG)
Toeboards don't need any precision. I would just drill a round hole that is a close fit for the hex shaft. If you don't want the shaft to rotate tack a weld on it.
Don't know what your design looks like but you can get different kinds of bearings for hex shafts.
Drill a hole, then cut it into a "U" shape. The two cuts should be the same width as the distance of 2 flats so it won't turn. Where I work we use hex shafts a lot, when you don't have a hex hole the "U"-slot works. You can also buy stock with a hex hole punched into it and weld these onto whatever.
I think you are wasting your time with them rollers...they look pretty light.
What is that hex shaft, maybe 5/8...or 3/4.
The wall of the roller doesnt look that beefy either.
Nope, I would make my own rollers out of a 3 or 4 inch pipe, weld on end caps with a hole drilled for a shaft and get some pillow block bearings.
One inch shaft should work nicely.
And a hole saw for the inside diameter of the pipe makes a nice neat job of cutting 1/4 inch of 3/8 inch plate for the shaft to go thru.
DW,listen to Pa those are too light, used on conveyers spaced close for boxes and crates.I had alot of them and they just use thin tube and would surely bend if used to lift one end of a log.They will be handy around the mill to shuttle boards around. Frank C.
4 years ago I bought 3 heavy duty rollers from Wood-Mizer (spare parts from an outfeed table). They had hex shafts so I drilled out the mounting plates and then carefully filed them into a hex shape using a small triangular file ::).
Last year when I bought my WM edger, I discovered that they simply drilled round holes that were just big enough to fit the hex shaft. The sharp corners on the shaft are enough to keep the shaft from turning :o. Wish I had know that when I bought those first rollers >:(.
Deep woods
I have rollers that I also picked up at an industrial salvage yard. The 12" ones weigh 22lbs each and th 16" are heavier yet. If yours are like mine, you will have no trouble with them on the mill.
I have used deepwell impact socketsyou can weld the socket in place or drill a hole threw both sides and bolt the socket down.
DW,possibly you could slip a heavier piece of pipe over those rollers,but even then those hex shafts are not very large,I've always just drilled a clearance hole for the hex. Frank C.
I guess I should add some perspective to my photos. The roller on the right is the one I will be using, and has a 3 1/2" diameter with 1/4" walled pipe, with a 1" hex shaft. The other one is from a conveyor used for light weight stuff. Sorry for not using a better photo to start with.
From the replies received already, it sounds like I am over concerned with getting a hex hole in my mounting plates. I haven't decided yet how I am going to lift the rollers, hydraulic jack, or just use a lever with a long handle to raise the roller manually. I want it to be quick and easy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10927/444/IMG_5004.JPG)
It looks like your first photo has the 1/4 thick roller to me which is plenty heavy. I'd try a good 2 ton hyd jack which would go up fast and would hold in place when you shut the valve, and you could stop it right where you want to. With a long log 1/4 on a toe board will make a lot of difference at the ends. Round hole would work or torch out some hex ones, no need to be exact. Steve
Your pic didn't fool me...I knew it was big nuff. ;D
Here is how I built my toeboard.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,7789.msg247857.html#msg247857
On page 15 there is a picture of it on the mill and there might be couple more pics of it in action in my gallery someplace.
I built it using a HF winch to raise it, but designed it to be replaced by a hydraulic cylinder later. Even though I never converted the mill to hydraulic I would have left the toeboard alone. It was fast and easy...only took about 1 or 2 cranks on most logs. It was not hard at all but for a 30 incher it took a little effort.
As good as your arch came out you won't have any trouble.
member stan snider made a neat toeboard for his mill about like larry's but used a trailer jack for the lift. looks like it worked out real well.
here is a pic of my toe board. 1 end needs to be clamped to keep the log from rolling with mine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20540/2953/sawmill_021.JPG)
pc
Thanks for the perspective....makes a difference.
My old WM didnt have a roller....just a piece of flat bar.
My WM LT70 has rollers. There is no way you will move a big log on the rollers until you have one flat side...just too heavy.
I have a remote with a drag back and if I have to pisition the log forward, I just raise both toeboards and move it back with the mill head...dont even get out of the operators chair I have.
You roll round logs using the hydraulics on the side supports.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0248.JPG)
Just use a chain and an end tong.
Hello ,John Deere forage havesters and corn planters use hex shaft bearings.
Welcome davey duck, to the Forestry Forum and good luck with your new sawmill build. :)
DW,should have known you wouldn't do anything half arsed,nice to be able to roll log/cant back and forth the the mill.When I built my bandmill I took a 4" square tube and put a shaft off center so when I turned it I'd get 1,2,or3" to adjust for taper,worked ok but not great.What I usally do is lift with the two plain clamp and put a piece of wood under the small end of the log. Frank C.
The good thing about using hydraulics to lift the toe-board/roller is that you can sight down the log as you adjust it. Without hydraulics. a lever, like a 5' canthook handle will lift the log. You might come up with some kind of detent to lock the toe-board/roller in place.
Larry,i just looked at the link,you provided-and you did a very good job on your tapers-you have given me a better idea,thanks Bert
I was reading thru all the replies to my question on how you would do this, and I think I came up with a possible solution. Do you think if I located the center of the hex shaft and drilled a pilot hole for a hole saw the right size, I could round off the hex shaft so it can fit a round hole? Even if there were some flat areas left this would be ok to use to lock the shaft with a set screw in the mounting plates. Think this would work?
Personally, I think that you are making it hard on yourself. Your roller will turn easily before the hex shaft in a round hole will even attempt to turn. If I just had to have it round, I would sacrifice two deep sockets that fit the hex shaft.
Then the round shaft in a round hole will be more likely to turn. :-\