I do a lot of "engineering analysis" ie just sitting around thinking about a problem. One of these sessions involved just how simple a blade tooth setter I could build. Came up with a very simple basic jig that looked like it should work. Sometmes we come up "ahaa" moments. I could add one bolt and nut and have a workable dual tooth setter. Here's the parts list.
.2 pieces of 2 inch angle iron, one 4 inches long, the other 5 inches.
. 2 1/8 X 3/4 roll pins from napa
. 4 pieces of 3/8 all thread inch to 1 1/2 long
. 4 nuts to fit the all-thread
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/pwset1.jpg)
Clamp the 2 angle irons together and drill the 1/8 holes in the corners. The roll pins will press into the holes in 1 piece. Drill out the holes in the other piece to 5/32 so it will slide over the roll pins loosely.
The 4 nuts have to be welded to the angle iron. If you don't have a welder, any welding shop can do the job in about 5 minutes
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/pwset4.jpg)
Note that the spacing on the setter bolts must match the tooth spacing of the blade, 7/8 inch in my case. All 4 of the all-thread pieces have a screwdriver slot hack-sawed in the back end. The 2 bolts that press against the tooth have the end ground off round. Flat end won't work.
Insert blade, adjust the up-down screws so the bottom of the gullet is flush with the edges of the angle iron and line the teeth up with the set bolts. . Stick the whole works in your vise and clamp tightly, tight enough that the 2 set bolts bend the tooth of the blade.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/pwset2.jpg)
OK, how much set??
Loosen the vise,and slip the blade out. Cheap plastic digital calipher, measure the thickness across the bent tooth. Subtract the blade thickness from this figure to get the amount of set. .065 minus .042 blade thickness = .023 set.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1037/pwset3.jpg)
Tweak the set bolts and retry until you get the desired set. A drop of thread lock or rtv on the threads to hold the setting.
Takes a little trial and error to get it set up, but once it's done, it's just a matter of insert blade, clamp tightly, loosen vise, move the blade over 3 teeth and repeat.
Repeatability is excellent and it's faster than my old single tooth setter. Build it for 10 bucks even if you have to hire the welding.
That's pretty cool, pineywoods.
One of the most important things about a setter is its ability to clamp the band tightly. I guess that the price of commercial models also has to do with the ability to compensate for differences in tooth height and tip distance caused by the customer grinding the tooth.
Then you have to include profit, engineering, marketing, profit, shipping and profit.
You show that we could make an acceptable one at home. :)
I think that is great.
that somehow looks a little familiar. it is exactly what my mind has been thinking.
good job.
when will you start taking orders? pc
Ole Pineys done it again,good stuff cheap.Probibly if a fella had different pitch bands he could weld nuts with different spacing on the angle iron.An adjustable lever with a hinged pawl to advance three teeth would greatly speed up the process,but thats probibly the PW mark II model. Good work. Frank C.
With that setup, could you make it a bit longer and set 4 or 6 teeth at a time?
Nick
metalwebnews com
I posted this a few yrs ago on here some liked it. Shows great projects for people who have a drill press,welder and a shop.
Here harbor freight just moved into the area. I love to see projects made out of steel.
Quote from: nas on May 08, 2011, 09:43:13 AM
With that setup, could you make it a bit longer and set 4 or 6 teeth at a time?
Nick
Don't see why not, but you better have a good vise.. or how about a hydraulic cylinder running off the tractor hydraulics...or how about a jig to hold it in a log splitter...hhmmmm..
To get different spacing all that is needed is more hole locations for the roll pins to slide on. You would have problems if the tooth spacing was too close to 7/8, but as long as it was enough of a difference to leave metal between the holes you could have as many as you wanted.
For $10 you could make another one for different spacing!
nice
Quote from: Hilltop366 on May 09, 2011, 08:24:57 AM
For $10 you could make another one for different spacing!
nice
That would be the most logical way to go. I like Keep It Simple Stupid
Isn't simplicity a sign of good engineering? I like your work, Piney ;)
I just built a replica pineywoods setter and thought if I welded a piece of an old band In-between the two pieces of angle Iron at the bottom then it would keep the flat sides of the angle iron parallel. I thought the steel would flex enough. It doesn't. I can set the teeth, but then the contraption doesn't open far enough to slide the band past the set screws. Guess I shoulda listened to piney and used pins. Back to the grinder I go.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30436/IMG_20130824_240642_107%7E0.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30436/IMG_20130824_240837_662.jpg)
I call it the Piney XL. ;D I didn't too much care for the one being so close to the end so i didn't add the 6th one to it and now have a spare bolt. Any how, thanks Pineywoods for the idea.
Compensation, how do you account for every third tooth being a raker? Only two of every three is set.
pineywoods,
A few month ago I made your setter when I started sharpening my bands by hand after disappointing experiences with a professional sharpening service. Have used the setter ever since.
Thank you for the post and idea. Simple to make, quick to adjust, fast and easy to use.
Jim
Nice work compensation.. An upgrade idea, not mine, glue a piece of rubber (thick rubber band ? ) between the two angles. Then the throat will open when you open the vise. Makes it a lot easier to slide the band to the next set of teeth..
Quote from: nomad on August 24, 2013, 07:40:51 AM
Compensation, how do you account for every third tooth being a raker? Only two of every three is set.
Son of a! Thanks for catching that. You ever start welding at midnight and find out the next morning it was a waste of time? That's how you account for that 3rd raker :).
Just back out the middle one and go for it, great idea piney, good work comp, david
Quote from: drobertson on August 24, 2013, 02:09:01 PM
Just back out the middle one and go for it....
Looks like to me that the sequence would still be off... Left, Right, Center, Left Right Center. Just my 2 cents.
Yeah, its basically a two tooth setter now with spare bolts. I knew there was a reason for 6, that was 4 bolts and 6 teeth. But everywhere I marked 7/8ths I put a nut instead of skipping that third one. For what its worth i hope this helps someone not make this mistake. This was made with scrap steel and left over nuts and bolts. Well I am going to start on the log arch now.
Quote from: rwthom279 on August 24, 2013, 02:43:20 PM
Quote from: drobertson on August 24, 2013, 02:09:01 PM
Just back out the middle one and go for it....
Looks like to me that the sequence would still be off... Left, Right, Center, Left Right Center. Just my 2 cents.
I think you're right R, did not look that close the first time, proto types are good for this, they give us a second chance to get it right! david
Man, still pretty work, not a hard fix at all, let us see the new one if you will, david
Hey, it would make a good blade for making cookies. :laugh:
Quote from: drobertson on August 24, 2013, 03:56:31 PM
Quote from: rwthom279 on August 24, 2013, 02:43:20 PM
Quote from: drobertson on August 24, 2013, 02:09:01 PM
Just back out the middle one and go for it....
Looks like to me that the sequence would still be off... Left, Right, Center, Left Right Center. Just my 2 cents.
...proto types are good for this, they give us a second chance to get it right! david
David, you nailed that one. I've worn that hat a time or two :-\
Nothing like a little "Redneck Ingenuity", pineywoods! Looks good, man!
I'd love to see pineywood's take on a sharpener! 8)
Built this one a couple months ago. Pineywoods style setter mounted on a piece of high quality birch plywood. I tried it in a vise at first but it was slow and awkward. I put elevator screws threaded into tee nuts in the plywood to adjust the band hieght, but I end up setting them at the same hieght as the roll pins that keep the jaws aligned. At some point I'll replace the handle on the toggle clamp with a longer T shaped handle for more comfortable operation.
I use feeler gauges to measure the set. I'm aiming for .024" set as measured with the gauge, which is probably a little more actually since the set probably extends a little into the body of the band and effects the measurement.
I can honestly say that the smoothness of the cut left by the bands I've set with this have been as good and better than new or resharp bands I've used in the past .
Thanks Pineywoods! ;)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/29506/IMG_0962.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/29506/IMG_0963.JPG)
Why don't yawl put lock nuts on the bolts to hold your setting?
Love the southern ingenuity, Pineywoods!
Comp- you can always just grind off the spare nuts you welded on to make it more aerodynamical, to help keep the greenies at bay. :rifle:
Thanks guys. The idea behind this project was to see how simple and cheap I could build a workable setter. I gave away the original as a door prize at Magics chicken crispin. Never built another, I have one of the old woodmizer single tooth setters which I converted to dual tooth.
Quote from: 4x4American on February 20, 2015, 08:30:16 AM
Why don't yawl put lock nuts on the bolts to hold your setting?
I built one copying his design. In my experience the heat from welding distorted the nuts enough that a bolt was a pretty tight fit and didn't need anything to prevent it from backing out.
Quote from: pineywoods on February 20, 2015, 10:05:48 AM
Thanks guys. The idea behind this project was to see how simple and cheap I could build a workable setter. I gave away the original as a door prize at Magics chicken crispin. Never built another, I have one of the old woodmizer single tooth setters which I converted to dual tooth.
Pinneywoods
Would you please post some pictures of the woodmizer single tooth setter, converted to dual tooth.
Thanks, Remle
Quote from: 4x4American on February 20, 2015, 08:30:16 AM
Why don't yawl put lock nuts on the bolts to hold your setting?
If I am seeing correctly the nut on the left is a dimpled, just above the weld, indicating he used a locknut to start with.
Gerald
Can be seen here Remle
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,46818.0.html
I've probably set a couple of hundred blades with this rig. An added comment...The blades need to be clean for best result. Big chunks of pine rosin on one side of the blade makes for un-even set...
Gentlemen, thank you both for the information. Looks like I need to rework my setter into a dual tooth version. I always clean and label each blade when it comes off the mill as to how it was performing. Unless it tangled with a rock / iron object or was dipping / diving for no apparent reason, it usually doesn't get set because of the time it takes to set with the single setter. So my next question is do you set each time you sharpen or how do you determine when a blade needs to be set ?
Remle, I check each blade for set before sharpening. After doing this for 12 years, I can feel with my fingers and tell pretty close how much set a tooth has. Until you get to that point, use a calipher. As a general rule, most blades will need setting after 3 or 4 sharpenings. Your mileage may vary, some blades may need setting more often. Clean, set if needed, then sharpen...
I use this gauge to check on mine.Calipers work ,but for me,being a dexterous klutz, this is easier to check a row teeth. I too use the piney modded single tooth setter.other pics in my gallery.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21049/2014-02-16_15_47_35.jpg)
The numbers indicate 10 ths of a millimeter.sorry the pic is not very clear.typically I set mine to .6 on 1.2 mm blade stock,but will set some to .8 for gummy pine
cheers john
Post your pics, and describe them for us.
Went in search for some toggle clamps around my house. I live in a small town area and no one has them. Where are y'all getting them from? And what size y'all using?
Quote from: fishfighter on April 25, 2015, 11:11:58 AM
Went in search for some toggle clamps around my house. I live in a small town area and no one has them. Where are y'all getting them from? And what size y'all using?
E-bay has everything....
I started my build, but got side tracked on other things that needed done. With my back out, that list of things grows by the day. First thing on top of the list is to get the trainnie finished rebuilt for my backhoe. Parts were ordered and are in, but a week in the hospital has that all on hold. :'(