Anybody ever seen this before? Know where to get one of these handles?
http://youtu.be/yueVyfjhgG0
looks like it could be a back saver with a small saw. Don't think it would work well on a MS880 though!! Looking forward to more info. Tonto.
That would be good for someone like SwampDonkey, he could use a real saw for work ;D :) But it would probably suite SpruceBunny the best with all her brush clearing and trail making. I think the back would be thankfull.
That was the Russian style of chainsaw for 30-40 years. This one appears to be light in weight and the cutting conditions ideal.
I cannot download the video but what happens when it catches on a twig and that little sucker kicks back 180 degrees ??? ???
Way cool!
Looks like it might be useful for some small wood operations. My back could use it. ;)
mighty kewl indeed! 8) 8) That is a real back saver!
Quote from: jim king on July 25, 2011, 10:51:03 AM
I cannot download the video but what happens when it catches on a twig and that little sucker kicks back 180 degrees ??? ???
Well its got those bars that you tuck between or against your leg (Its kind of hard to tell, a closer look would be helpful), but I think if the saw kicks back, those bars would either hold the saw from kicking back, or push your leg out the the way so it doesn't cut YOU down. I shared the same concern though.
that deal is pritty neat, but i personally liked how he was revin it up when he was walkin.. BAD IDEA!
so... if you trip, chain is rollin.... what if...when you land face forward ?
That and I have to add, only holding the handle with one hand cutting. :-\ that think kicks back, no way your holding it with one hand even if its an 019 equiv.
I learned Years ago. BOTH hands on the saw, . best idea is to go to work area and fire up the saw, but if your walkin with a runnin saw, dont rev it when walking, hold it somewhat close, and be ready to either throw it forward or off to the left ( im right handed) I have saved myself from landing on the saw more than once when i have tripped walkin in snow covered fields/ pastures, finding the downed fence with my boot.
That's perfect ! I see how it works, keeping the saw and any kickback away from your leg but it might be tough on knees.
I'm going to look into that !
I saw it on a different site. It's made in one of the Scandinavian countries, I believe Norway. I looked it up couldn't understand what was written. I'll see if I can find it again.
Quote from: beenthere on July 25, 2011, 09:48:20 AM
That was the Russian style of chainsaw for 30-40 years.
I though the same thing.
Like the one Jeff has.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/soviet_saw.jpg)
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,12252.0.html (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,12252.0.html)
Ian
Quote from: isawlogs on July 25, 2011, 09:30:33 AM
That would be good for someone like SwampDonkey, he could use a real saw for work ;D :)
I'll be keeping my brush saw. I don't want to be thinning anything any bigger than I have to right now. :D :D
I like it. :) I need to find out where to get one.
And if we can't find one, someone here with more know how should start producing them and make some $$. I'd buy one.
Quote from: shelbycharger400 on July 25, 2011, 04:45:30 PM
that deal is pritty neat, but i personally liked how he was revin it up when he was walkin.. BAD IDEA!
so... if you trip, chain is rollin.... what if...when you land face forward ?
That and I have to add, only holding the handle with one hand cutting. :-\ that think kicks back, no way your holding it with one hand even if its an 019 equiv.
I learned Years ago. BOTH hands on the saw, . best idea is to go to work area and fire up the saw, but if your walkin with a runnin saw, dont rev it when walking, hold it somewhat close, and be ready to either throw it forward or off to the left ( im right handed) I have saved myself from landing on the saw more than once when i have tripped walkin in snow covered fields/ pastures, finding the downed fence with my boot.
Some good points made about walking with a saw.
I apply the chain brake often when using the saw, I will use the brake when walking, holding saw top handle with left hand while clearing a branch with right hand or setting saw down to move something that requires two hands. Some may wonder why I would bother to use the brake when my right hand is no where near the throttle trigger, on a lot of saws if you apply enough pressure on the bar while holding on to the handles the engine will rev up which will turn the chain, if you are falling and land on your saw (either holding on to saw or saw setting on the ground) there is a good chance it will rev up.
Quote from: Hilltop366 on July 27, 2011, 09:15:43 AM.....................................................
, on a lot of saws if you apply enough pressure on the bar while holding on to the handles the engine will rev up which will turn the chain, if you are falling and land on your saw (either holding on to saw or saw setting on the ground) there is a good chance it will rev up.
What brand or model of saw was that? Of the few brands I've used (but mostly Stihl), have never experienced a saw rev'ing up unless a finger moved the throttle (or a stick on the older saws without the extra throttle safety latch). Just curious.
The guy that pointed this out to me back in the late 80's was using Husky if I remember correctly, My old saw a Dolmar 115 would do this, I now have a Stihl 361 but have never tested it to see if it did or not. I guess it just became habit to apply the brake now, I figure why take the chance, I always try the brake when first starting the saw and I figure using it once and a while is better than not using it at all.
The cause of the saw revving up when the bar is pushed down is the design of the throttle linkage and way saws are built with engine (and carb) being separated from the handles with rubber or spring mounts, when you push down on the bar in the right angle it will push the rear handle towards the carb which causes the linkage to push the carb open and increase engine speed. The same thing happens some times when the bar is pinched.
I can't say for sure how many saws do this but I do know that some definitely do. Keep in mind also that a lot more pressure would be applied if you are falling than during normal use.
It would be interesting to know what other saws do this.
I've had my MS361 pinched, and have exerted fair amount of force to remove it without ever getting an increase in rpm. Also never had a problem with the 35 year old Stihl 041.
Sounds to me like the idle was set too high or a bad carb.
Ya just gotta know where to look. :)
http://www.apurituote.fi/
Check out the attached PDF.
Item No.: ATKKKM
Price: 264 euros = 383.3016 US dollars
Recommended use:
medium-capacity chainsaw with
40-50 cc engines
Got a 57 cc brush saw, so I feel that trumps any chainsaw for the intended application. ;D
I agree that you have the right tool for your type tree work. ;)
That work almost looked enjoyable. ::)
I'll bet with metal electrical conduit and a conduit bender you could have one of those handle frames knocked out in an afternoon.
What were those grabbers that he was using to pick up the wood, the things in the holsters on the back of his belt?
Tammy and family figured Jeff needs a hobby, so they're helping him get geared up.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,51963.msg750819.html#msg750819
;)
Quote from: Ernie on July 27, 2011, 04:42:54 PM
What were those grabbers that he was using to pick up the wood, the things in the holsters on the back of his belt?
Hand held log tongs.
Have them at Bailey's
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=pulp hook&catID=11503
Never had a problem with any of my 3 Huskies reving up when pinched or pushing down. Maybe the guy in the video was reving the saw on purpose to keep it running. :-\
my 1980's deere 50v (really an echo saw) has spring/rubber isolated handle, it dosnt rev up. altho, occasionally it dose start to slight speed up on its own, i love the saw, it has a 1/4 inch knob at fingertip, i can adjust the idle.
that green chain saw in that picture on first page, dose the bar rotate and index in? verticle or horizontal, it looks almost like a mahle saw, except they were red/orange.
It's a Russian saw, and yes, you can rotate the bar and orient it to any angle. Ianab posted a link along with the photo.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,12252.0.html
jeff.... that looks like a slasher chain. :P slow, easy to dull
did u figure the date on it.. no way 1985. that has to be a 1950's saw.
picture of that old beast brings me to an off subject. :)
My 54 Mculloch 35 with a 25 in bar , live drive, with 404 chain all orrigional i think. it usto run, throttle is stuck, cant figure how to get it apart to get to it , all side covers access everything else, points ect. no access to the reed switch plate . it usto belong to city of Mound mn tree service, in the 80's my dad, stepdad and mother, and a few others used it in their tree service, i was about 4 or 5. last time it fired up was when i was 15? my step dad was toyin round tunin all the saws up, pulled this one out , and a 1940? montgomery ward. the ward fiered up on 5th pull. then the mculloch... pulled the *#$# out of it, fired up, and sliced right through a 20+ hard maple log.. lowest rpm saw i ever heard just layed it on the log and.. didnt miss a lick. the ward has very little compression, and i couldnt get it to start last year, good spark.
Can't tell the timeline on the CCCP saw, but it was typical for the Russian woods equipment to settle in on one style/design and stick with that for 25-30 years and more. I first saw pics of this Russian saw from a visitor to Russia in the early 80's, and he talked about the woods equipment - tracked vehicles, trucks, and chainsaws. 40's and 50's vintage equipment still made in the 80's. No competition or drive to change a design, and no one jealous of the other workers that might run updated equipment. Buildings and structures were much the same. Socialism doesn't work well, and hope we don't have to learn that the hard way.
Here is a 1993 Russian saw, that is a bit similar
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58845
Thanks for finding it Jeff!
If I had a saw that would reve up when pinched or had any pressure aplied to it , I would seriously be doing a motor mount upgrade. If your mounts are that sloppy get them changed and you won't need to worry about the saw reving up.
Quote from: beenthere on July 27, 2011, 05:51:43 PM
Quote from: Ernie on July 27, 2011, 04:42:54 PM
What were those grabbers that he was using to pick up the wood, the things in the holsters on the back of his belt?
Hand held log tongs.
Have them at Bailey's
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=pulp hook&catID=11503
I could not get Beenthere's link to work.
The tool on the operator's left appears to be a
Husqvarna lifting hook (http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=HVA+574+38+74+01&catID=11503). This seems to be basically a smaller, lightweight pulp hook.
The item on his right appears to be a set of
Husqvarna 8" Timber Tongs (http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=HVA+574+38+75+01&catID=11503). I have one of these and use it a lot for picking up rounds for my splitter, and for dragging and repositioning logs. The jaws open to just over 8". They make a bigger one, but I've found that the 8" model is easy to carry, and will pick up a stove length round up to 12" or more. They are a bit light if you are trying to drag around longer 12+ logs, but then I don't have the energy to wrestle many of them by hand anyway. I cut firewood with several friends. After one session where they saw me using one, and I let them try it out, most of them showed up next time with their own pair. current price is about $31 (and well worth it),
Both of the links above take you to a Bailey's web page.
John Mc
OK, so what about the cool handle on the saw? Anybody found out where/who makes it?
Make your own ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/SBsawH2ndEdOP.jpg)
Does it work? :) (VIDEO) ;)
Quote from: DR_Buck on July 31, 2011, 12:21:06 PM
OK, so what about the cool handle on the saw? Anybody found out where/who makes it?
Umm... See reply 21
Not yet, Jeff. I need a bicycle brake and another metal piece for a thigh brace.
I don't know how to deal with video. Will post one in September.
8) 8) 8) 8)
Backyard engineering. :)
Quote from: Jeff on July 31, 2011, 07:17:05 PM
Quote from: DR_Buck on July 31, 2011, 12:21:06 PM
OK, so what about the cool handle on the saw? Anybody found out where/who makes it?
Umm... See reply 21
It took me a while to notice that I could switch the site to English (duh, British flag should have been a giveaway).
I wonder if there is any advantage in speed or size tree it would handle over a brush saw? Looks expensive for what you get, though it is significantly cheaper than the high-end clearing saws (and somewhat cheaper than the mid-range/"landowner" models)
John Mc
I tried it today 8) 8) 8) works slick even with a mickey-mouse throttle.
Haven't worked out a good throttle set-up yet and need to add another piece of metal so your right arm has more leverage but the balance is good. Weight of handle under 4 pounds.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/SBsawHankle.jpg)
Was wondering if a brush saw throttle with switch and trigger and throttle cable would work? You'd want to mount it on an upright post the size of a push mower handle.
That is smart enguneerin' 8) 8) Way da go Joan !!!!!
I LOVE your home brew! Where did you source that white piece? I wonder if 10 speed handle bars would work as a base and tack on the other extensions as needed? could become a FF contest.
Dave
Aren't you a lucky guy, Dave ???
I knew it was a promising piece of metal and I have 2 extras. Seems a whole flock of office chairs were thrown out ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/sbsawHbaseO.jpg)
I thought of a FF contest, also !
shinnlinger
I think SB already won. :) :)
Very innovative!
very cool idea! 8) Watch your legs!
New model. The first one was awkward and the throttle didn't work well.
The Apuri website no longer has English on it so I don't know what the "real thing" costs now....
I made this one out of part of a walker, some other chunk of aluminum I got at the dump, some plumbing fittings, hose clamps ....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/SBnmleft.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/SBnmrear.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/SBnmthrothandle.jpg)
It's not as heavy duty as it might be. If it's really useful, I'll make a tougher one ;D
Looks good Joan and it would still function as a walker smiley_old_guy
I'm just waiting to see the new clearing saw. ;D ;)
I tried it yesterday and added the ankle stop feature like my first contraption had. Used it again today and it works great ! Cleared a little along a trail today. Don't think it would be good with snowshoes on and they are still needed up here.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11412/SBnmsafteybar.jpg)
The whole handle weighs around 2 pounds ( guessing ) since it's all aluminum.
I've been looking at clearing saws but even used, they cost too much. I might rent one and see if it's good for what I'm doing.
SB
As a big help on the back, look into a harness like used with the brush clearing saws. That will carry the weight on your shoulders and save the back when using your new frame.
But think you would really like the clearing saws for the purpose you have, also with the harness.