I'm wanting to build an old trappers type cabin. One room with a loft. Thinking 16' X 24'. Dovetailed logs 6" X 12" . My question is I have a lot of old pines on my property and would like to use them, will they hold up to the weather and insects. If so how long should I let them dry. Some have told me cut them and assemble cabin right away Get roof over it and let air dry.. Others say cut them and stack and air dry. I am in north central Arkansas(Calico Rock) Not a lot of hardwood at reasonable price. The cedar logs to be had are of no length.. Any advice would be appreciated. I want it dovetailed so as to not have more than a 1/2" - 1 " gap to chink.
Something like this
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,20922.msg298008.html#msg298008
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14000/1570/cabinporch.jpg)
I stacked the logs green. forgot to make the door and window openings a little small to compensate for log shrinkage. Otherwise worked fine.
Well...there is a twin corn crib style log barn just up the road from here that was erected in eighteen ten...of green pine logs...still there.
The Williamsburg foundation practically wets themselves over that barn...pretty rare here...more common in Tennessee..
Welcome to FF!
thanks for the pics of the cabin....i have recently visited a place locally (parker homestead) The Parkers have amassed a number of old cabins, school houses and an old church a barn and other old buildings. Some are of pine. My concern is the insects and rot... I have an old homebuilt bandsaw mill that i will use to cut the logs with. I did notice at The Parkers that most of the cabins were half notched instead of dovetailed. What are the draw backs of half notching compared to dovetailing.... Thanks for the info guys
Oh, I'd say them pine logs will last a hundred years or so IF IF they are kept dry. Once they dry out real good, termites are about the only insects that are a big problem. Keep them up off the ground.
The log ends on the pinewoods cabin are flat notched instead of dovetails because I figured out a way to cut them on my bandmill ;D Also does away with the need for chinking. There's a spline between the logs that makes for an almost airtight wall.
I'm living in a 150 year old hand hewn log home that's made of whatever species was growing on the land when the original settlers moved into the area (elm, ash, oak, basswood, etc.). I would guess the logs were probably exposed to the weather for the first 40 years of their existence (before someone sided over them with sawn boards) and they're all solid as can be. If my basswood logs haven't rotted I can't imagine pine would give you any trouble. The key is to keep the wood off the ground, extend your eaves to help keep the walls dry, and make sure the house gets adequate air circulation around it.
The reason for the dovetail notch is that in theory it sheds water better than the other styles. The slope on the dovetail encourages water to move out and away from the notch with helps prevent rot. I'd recommend some of the books by Charles McRaven if you haven't already looked at them.
I agree with Axe, overhang is the key in keeping water away!
Sbishop
Gday
and Welcome to The Forum Calicokid ;) ;D ;D ;D 8) 8)
PINE WILL BE FINE ;) ;D if you follow these three simple rules ;) ;D ;D 8) Get the Bark Off It ,Keep a Good Roof On It with about 2' eaves ;) & Keep it Off The Ground at least 16 inches and You will have built something that will last generations if you keep a good roof over it and give it a good coat of oil on the exterior when it needs it ;) ;D ;D 8) 8)
Regards Chris
Keep it dry and off the ground and anything works, pine will be fine. Dovetail, hand-scribed, notched/chinked, piece-en-piece construction are designed to use green logs. Make sure you allow settling space and key your windows and doors. If you let the logs dry, the work gets a little bit tougher.
If I was to cut three square sided (D shape) and then use butt and pass, I would probably let the logs dry.
I built The Stump Ranch with green logs red pine and aspen (hand scribed), it took me two and half years to get the roof on, the logs were out in the weather. I was starting to get concerned, wouldn't go much longer than that.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17998/2073/DSC01988.JPG)
First, square is one key. Build it in a square. Up is also cheaper than out.
Second, if you want to learn about building your own real log home (or cabin) for cheap, that will last for generations, take a look at www.loghomebuilders.org . I will be building my next home in the Butt and Pass style log home starting sometime next year. Build with green logs. No problems with settling. Built on piers. Great bunch of people. Look at the Gallery of member's log homes. They are not built by professionals, just individuals like us.
I'm glad you posted this, I was curious about the same thing. ;D
I am not a fan of the butt and pass. I like the traditional dovetail and chinked gap. (Of course I am biased!)
Second the McRaven book recommendation. I wouldn't chink with mortar though. Been there and done that. Flexible chinking is the way to go.
Fred,
What's the problem with Butt & Pass? About 30% of the labor of dovetail or any other carved/notched style. Personally, I like that a B&P style can be built with green logs and doesn't require a phD in log carving and no settling. We chink with mortar and we don't end up with a drafty home. The less cutting of the outer layers of the log means less water damage.
But each to their own my friend.