Since I got my mill in Feb., I have milled tons of 12, 10, 8 and 6 foot logs and everything else in between.
My LT 40 will mill a 16 footer, they say.
Will I be able to saw a log 16 foot 6 inches? Or what is the longest length I can saw.
I have not loaded a 16 plus log yet and would like to know before I put it on deck.
Thanks, David
LT 40 should do 20 feet. 16 footer, just throw it on there anywhere.
If you get in a real bind, remove the rubber bumpers at each end of the track. that will get you an additional 3 inches. If you are sawing timbers, it's not too hard to handle a 30 footer. Several post in the sawmill forum showing how. You could just run up to kaintuck and get slingshot to build you one of them nice 10 ft bed extensions...
I've sawed several 19' logs, just try to center on the bed so you don't run out of rail, or "bump the pumper." It's always handy to have help/equipment/or otherwise. The are gut-busters!
Gday
How olds your mill as WH said it should do a 20 footer easy but from memory ther was an option in the 90s I think that you could get either a 16' or a 20' cut mill ;) someone correct me if Im wrong ??? ;)
Regards Chris
Chris,you can cut a 20footer ,but it has to be on perfect,kind of like cutting a 36 in log ;D
20' 6"ish is no problem just have to centre it within an inch. 16s are no problem. i like to load them as close to centre as possible as it makes it easier and quicker to turn the cant with the log clamp instead of the claw.
What do y'all mean it has to be perfect for a LT40 to cut a 20 footer? Centering on the mill? It should be pretty easy, but then again I have never tried one on a LT40
Man I would love to have a LT40...but I sure am spoiled on my 15 and cut 20-24' on a regular basis.
Your welcome to try one on my mill just bring one and come on down ;D
Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on October 31, 2011, 09:56:11 AM
20' 6"ish is no problem just have to centre it within an inch. 16s are no problem. i like to load them as close to centre as possible as it makes it easier and quicker to turn the cant with the log clamp instead of the claw.
I agree with Bandmill Bandit.
Quote from: Papa1stuff on October 31, 2011, 09:37:13 AM
Chris,you can cut a 20footer ,but it has to be on perfect,kind of like cutting a 36 in log ;D
Gday yeah I know even put stuff a bit bigger than 36" though the 40s i use to run probobly done around the 2000hr mark on them over the years ;) :) I just remember they did a 16 and a 20' cut mill and had it as an option till they ditched that n went everyones gettting a 20' cut mill !! ;) :D ;D Pistons is from memory a late model mill or he brought it new ??? ;)
Quote from: pineywoods on October 30, 2011, 04:28:10 PM
If you get in a real bind, remove the rubber bumpers at each end of the track. that will get you an additional 3 inches.
Maybe it depends on the exact model of mill you've got, but I removed the bumper on the tail end of my mill recently to get just a little more length (thinking that I was very clever), and found that this allowed my rear-most upper roller to go past the end of the rail and drop about 1/4". It only took a minute to pry the head back up and push it back onto the rail, but I didn't feel so clever after that.
--Peter
I regularly saw 20' 6" logs, but of course I have to remove my Operator's Seat. I can only saw 18' 6" max. with the seat on. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0339a.JPG)
Sawing 9/4 X 12" X 20' 6" Cypress.
Thanks Guys. Sawed a log or two on Sat. They were 16'-8". Had plenty of room left. I feel better now!
I've cut logs 24' on my LT40, but it's a pain in the butt.
If I remember correctly, one can cut 21' if the log is set pu perfectly
Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 06, 2011, 10:38:24 PM
I've cut logs 24' on my LT40, but it's a pain in the butt.
If I remember correctly, one can cut 21' if the log is set pu perfectly
Correct Dan!
21' is the max length, and it has to be centered between the lines!
That is normal, but if you remove the bumpers or move the log after sawing part-way you can saw longer.
Quote from: Chuck White on November 07, 2011, 05:20:49 AM
Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 06, 2011, 10:38:24 PM
I've cut logs 24' on my LT40, but it's a pain in the butt.
If I remember correctly, one can cut 21' if the log is set pu perfectly
Correct Dan!
21' is the max length, and it has to be centered between the lines!
That is normal, but if you remove the bumpers or move the log after sawing part-way you can saw longer.
My 2 car garage is exactly 21 feet 3 inches across, timbers cut on LT40 with both bumpers removed..... ;D
Quote from: pnyberg on November 06, 2011, 09:12:24 PM
... Maybe it depends on the exact model of mill you've got, but I removed the bumper on the tail end of my mill recently to get just a little more length (thinking that I was very clever), and found that this allowed my rear-most upper roller to go past the end of the rail and drop about 1/4". ...
On the other hand, I removed the bumper on the front end. No chance of the head coming off the rail that way. I mentioned this once before and someone (Marty, I think) warned about the possibility of shearing off the nylon (non conducting) bolt on the power strip. Didn't seem to be a problem for me, but I checked just in case.
Ohh :(.
My LT40 (before the extensions) had 21'-1/16" of travel. That meant if the teeth were just touching the face of a 21' log at the front, they would just barely break out at the back. No room to raise the blade until the slab or flitch was removed.
Now consider that I can never cut a log perfectly square; as you turn a log, it shifts down the mill a bit; getting it onto the loader in exactly the right place is tricky; it's hard to shift the log lengthwise until you've cut at least one flat. So 20'-6" is a more realistic maximum.
Mind you, I cut 25' logs on my basic mill, 30' logs after I added a 6 foot extension, and 34' logs with a second extension. Cutting 3 or 4 feet over the mills capacity is doable, but a bit of a pain.
When I need to adjust a log lengthways on the sawmill, I raise the roller toe boards and use the side supports, chain, and end tong.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0248.JPG)
When it gets to the exact spot, I lower the toe boards. ;D
Magic.....where can I buy one of those big fish hooks you have that hooks to the end of your log?
Thanks.
I doubt that they can be bought. I made mine out of broken tongs. You could also use the hook from a cant hook or peavey.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0283.JPG)
Recycled logging tongs.
I also use them for handling logs and unloading logs from my trailer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0289.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0290.JPG)
A 20' SYP log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0261.JPG)
Using the log clamp to adjust a log.
You can get a chain with a 'J' hook on the end from Northern Hardware or someplace similar but I like Magics idea better since the tip is already pointed.
scott
This might work
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_15775_15775
If not, type in hook on northerns site.
I swore the J-hook they have in the store looks different than that one. Maybe I'm wrong. I was going to buy one last time I was in Northern but just didnt think I would use it all that much. Your other option is to buy some cant hook pieces off Ebay. I do have one laying around I got that way.
I do not think that the "J" hook would have enough throat, plus the angle is wrong, plus..... :-\
Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on November 10, 2011, 11:13:35 AM
Magic.....where can I buy one of those big fish hooks you have that hooks to the end of your log?
Thanks.
Bailey's sells one made by Lewis Winch: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=LW+N1011&catID=, but Kevin at Logrite will sell you a replacement hook for their Megahook for less than this (in the picture) : (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21495/2822/hook_rigging.jpg) . Also see: https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,49913.0.html
AND....Logrite supports the Forum and you don have to use that dirty little "Northern" word. Jeff wouldn't let this get by but he's busy on walk about or something.
The Logrite hook might be OK for moving and adjusting logs, but for lifting logs, the hook angle looks wrong.