I have no up or down movement. Setworks is bypassed and has been for a while. Jumping leads in box from a-c and a-d gives me movement. Cleaned contacts in wire reel. I have 12+ volts from black and white switch points to ground. Bypass switch and still no movement. Im at a loss. How can i have voltage to the switch but no movement? Crossing in box says solenoids are good. Whats going on? Im in the middle of a job today and need some quick advice.
Thanks!
Martin
Might be the breaker there's a 40 or 50 amp breaker in the box. I replaced mine when I by passed setworks.
My breaker had went before, so i bypassed it today. Wierdest thing, when i back up or move forward the head will start moving. If it stops i jiggle the cord to see if its a short but nothing. Move the head again and it goes to working. What gives?
Ok i got it. Problem was an almost broken ground wire where the wire turns down near the track and goes up the carriage post. Really had me confused for a while. Thanks redbeard.
Sounds like Cord reel is problem. take it off and test the wires to see if it will move head up n down. That should narrow it down. You might have to wire switch to cord reel wire and strap it to the mill head and you will have to do a lot of walking back n forth to get the job done.
The switch connected by the cord reel provides 12V to two of the large switches at a time; the four switches are wired so that they switch in pairs, diagonally.
The switches will click as they switch.
A voltmeter can show if the switch is open or closed.
Since the head won't move it is likely that the control voltage to the switches is missing or as you presented the 12V source to the switches is missing due to a open breaker.
Let us know what you find.
Steve
It ended up being the ground - it was almost in two at the turn point where the cord turns and goes up the carriage post. Made me think that we need a more extensive trouble shooting guide for our mills on the FF. I've owned 2 and had to tinker with both of them.
Glad you found problem, The cord reel is usually the culprit and you can put a industrial one on that will hold up on the heavy use or you can put a remote on, that works great. cost is about the same. search (cordless B-20 for info). You shouldn't have to by pass setworks, it is a great feature when its working right.
I wouldn't know - the setworks have never worked. I think the previous owner let the sprocket contact the counter. Its scratched on the face and ive been told that contacting it would mess it up. $300 for a new counter is hard to swallow. As much as i wish it worked i kinda take a "can't miss what you never had" approach.
Yes setworks that work are well worth it, speeds up pruduction a lot. Steve
Those little electral problems will make you want to pull your hair out won't they? Banjo
Here is a $50 one. Grainger has plenty to choose from, a few under $100. It would be nice if you could get the manufacturer's part number or specs for the one you need, then you could purchase one from a parts house save on handling charges.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SCHNEIDER-ELECTRIC-Proximity-Sensor-1EWA7?Pid=search (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SCHNEIDER-ELECTRIC-Proximity-Sensor-1EWA7?Pid=search)
Does that one have 4 wires? The TK one has 4 wires and for me is 100% reliable with my mill almost 10 years old and 8000 hours and still the origanal. $300 sound high but I never priced one, the whole computer is only $375, I learned the hard way, unhook it when doing any welding or electrical work. Steve
LL, as I said we would need the specification of the sensor to match it. However, a four wire sensor is just a general purpose output sensor, a three wire can be purchased to do the same job, they both cost about the same.
The cost should not be much more than $100 (retail).
TGS, If you want to send me your sensor I could test it for you to see if it is good.
TK will also test the 3 major parts, computer, sensor and wiring harness. Steve
Its a 4-wire from sensor solutions number: 37ADQ-FO 05M. I was hesitant to send it in if it was going to be so costly to replace anyway.
Thanks,
Martin
I have looked at your source's web page. They do offer their parts online, so you may want to give them a call to see what the cost from them might be.
I did not find your part number but I could see part numbers that were close to yours.
Here is a link to the section covering the DQ-37ADQO , I don't understand their pricing you can see the prices on this page, but in their cross-reference section I find totally different prices.
http://sensorso.com/home/option/part/DQ-37ADQO-/ (http://sensorso.com/home/option/part/DQ-37ADQO-/)