I posted some questions earlier this summer about sawing a white oak log I have into flooring.(https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,51543.0/all.html)
In my original thread, I posted...
QuoteI have a 14' long and about 25" diameter white oak log that I want to mill into flooring. I plan to use the flooring for a cabin and put some sort of finish on it.......
....The log has been sitting now for 2 weeks and I won't be able to get to it for another month, just trying to plan in advance
My main problem was that I couldn't get the log to the mill. My log arch winch isn't strong enough to lift the log, and my tractor is just a toy compared to what I needed to lift it. The log ended up being 28" diameter and just over 14' long. I knew it was heavy but I didn't realize just HOW heavy. I used the weight of a log calculator (admittedly AFTER milling the log) and it came up with just over 4,000lbs. (Had I been smart, and figured out the weight earlier, I think I would have re evaluated my plan ;D)
For reference, my tractor lifts about 2,000 on the HIGH end! I was able to drag the log up the road...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/1748/Tractor_034.jpg)
......but didn't want to drag it across the lawn and tear up the front yard, so there it sat (until I could pick up the new backhoe to lift it) at the bottom of the driveway all summer......
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/1748/Tractor_039.jpg)
Once I finally picked up the new (old) backhoe I was able to get enough lifting power to load up the log on the trailer, and bring it a short distance to the mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00024.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00030.jpg)
I've always read on here that the little ole LT15 is good for smaller logs, but too much work with big logs. Well, I have milled some pretty large pines with this mill, and aside from it being a lot of work, never had too much of a problem, sure it was hard to turn the log on the mill, and offload the large pieces, but it was doable, so I went along with it.
I have to admit, this was the first day we've ever milled a hardwood log, only pines up to this point. And let me say, I have met my match! :D
This log got the best of me, the best of the mill, and not only that, but took ALL day long to mill! This log, was simply too big for this mill, but after all was said and done, we got the job done....
(I really feel like the pictures just don't do it justice :D)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00032.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00031.jpg)
We had to trim down some of the larger diameter areas with the chainsaw.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00033.jpg)
For the most part, just chipping away the bark was enough to get the minimum clearance we needed.
I wouldn't say it was so much the size of the log that caused us the most grief, but more the weight of it. As I said earlier, with the large pines it was just difficult, but with this oak log, it was literally impossible, we just couldn't turn the log on our own, I don't even know why we tried! :D
I wrapped a longish wire sling around the log and hooked it up to the backhoe, then ever so slowly raised the boom, simultaneously turning the log while taking some of the weight off the mill. I was as gentle as I could be as I knew we were pushing the limits with this kind of weight on the mill.
All in all though, this method worked excellent.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00034.jpg)
I really wanted to quartersaw as much as I could with this log, and I was trying not to lose sight of my original goal, but it had already been well over an hour since we got the log on the mill, and we hadn't even made our first cut yet, so I was losing my motivation for quartersawing since it would take so much more work than simply flat sawing. I decided to try quartersawing as much as I reasonably could, the rest would be whatever it came off the mill as. ;)
Wow that does look like a job and a half. Good work on it.
I hate that length of log on my mill. To short to make a couple of 8' logs and too long for ease of handling. Being the lazy guy I am I'd of cut it at 10' and had some good firewood out of the rest. :D
We were finally able to make the first couple of cuts, sloooooooowly! ;D
I think we took a couple slabs off the top, and then made the first quartersaw cut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00035.jpg)
It didn't take us log to realize that the diameter of the log, was a bigger number than what the mill could handle! :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00036.jpg)
(You can see my wife standing in the background saying "you idiots" ;D
....and that's as far as we made it, we were stuck. We tried backing out of the cut but the blade jumped off, so we backed the mill head out of the way and worked on getting the blade out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00037.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/pice00038.jpg)
We opened up the cut enough to back the blade out by using some wedges. Then trimmed down the fat spots a little more.
Norm, at this point, I wanted to make firewood out of the entire dang log!
Don't let one log get you down. Next timetake small cuts and rotate the log a little at a time till you get it trimed down to a size that the throat opening will handle and by all means, use that backhoe or the tractor for handling any bigger pieces you take of to cut later. I used to have a TK 1200. It's a mill of about the same size as the LT15. I cut many a large log with it. You learn the littled tricks from experiance and you can take advatage of a whole wealth of experiance from here on the forum.
It will be worth it Piston 8) 8) The width miscalculation happens with hydraulic mills too, don't ask me how I know.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16789/Apr09_0001.jpg)
This log took me almost a whole day, and had many of the same frustrations as you are having.
Nick
As you quickly discovered, Pine is heavy but nothing compared to Oak. Actually, I think that you did a very good job of log handling. Even with a larger sawmill, you just "think" that you can saw larger logs. You can, but you will still get stuck.
Bibby'ing down the butt and using wedges to back a blade out will still happen. I have not done it since Tuesday with Dodgy Loner on that big old Walnut log. We had to trim the butt and top, and still had to back out once.
Since this was your first "too big log" much of your time was getting your feet wet, but you were gaining knowledge that will help you next time....and there will be a next time. ;D
I'll try to finish posting some of the last few pics.
It felt good to finally see the log opened up and actually start making boards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00004.jpg)
We started by taking off the top of the log, a couple (maybe a few) inches above the pith, then took a few boards off until a couple inches below the pith.
Here are some of the 4/4 boards before edging.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00003.jpg)
A few boards being edged....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00005.jpg)
All in all we finished the log and I ended up with roughly 380 board feet of lumber that I'll use for flooring. I certainly won't forget where I got that flooring from! :D
Here's most of it stacked and stickered in the upstairs of an unheated and well ventilated garage (well supported underneath ;))
Hmmm, or not.... For some reason I can't upload the last few pics to my puter. I'll try again tonight, I'm running out of time for the day. ;)
I don't know how much of the lumber is true quartersawn, I didn't take the time to count it out, but I'm happy with the results of what I ended up with. I'll let it dry for a year or so, probably longer by the time I need it, and have it planed and tongue and grooved. I will lose some of the width due to some more edging, but a few of the boards are very wide, at 15" or so, those ones are quartersawn. I imagine those won't stay straight and I'll have to either edge them down or rip them in half, but I just couldn't bring myself to rip them in half until there is a reason. :D
Piston, I sawed a white oak log almost identical to that one in every dimension (14' long, 32" butt, 26" tip) a few years ago. We loaded it onto a trailer BY HAND using a couple peaveys and some ramps. My secret? I sawed it in half ;D. The two seven-foot logs each weigh half as much as one fourteener :D. I used about half of the lumber for flooring in my kitchen in my house in north Georgia. Since I had to plane and T&G the boards myself, there was no point in trying to deal with 14' lumber anyway. Seven-foot boards were plenty of work to handle! :)
Quote from: Magicman on December 15, 2011, 10:46:35 AM
Bibby'ing down the butt and using wedges to back a blade out will still happen. I have not done it since Tuesday with Dodgy Loner on that big old Walnut log. We had to trim the butt and top, and still had to back out once.
Magicman, we need to get a Forestry Forum "dictionary" thread going or some such, I would like to know the origins of the term "Bibby'ing", Could be the source of hours of amusement, if we get all the new "words" up in one place, what think ye?
Piston, Great job on that log! 8) 8)Way to stick to the job. When the days go like it looks like yours did, you wonder why you ever started, but like magicman says, there will be a "next time" and you will be all the wiser :)
that picture of your wife is hilarious
I have seen that same posture from my wife, just after I ask her to hold my beer and watch this
Quote from: mad murdock on December 15, 2011, 12:03:12 PM
we need to get a Forestry Forum "dictionary" thread going or some such, I would like to know the origins of the term "Bibby'ing"
Hey, where is the dictionary? I guess that I knew and forgot, but it's probably on the upgrade list. I don't think that Bibbying is in there anyway.
I affectionately used the term "Bibbying" because it sounds better than gnawing. It describes paring down the log butt so that the sawmill will pass. Bibbyman has described having to do it many times and I just coined the term out of respect to him. :) Sometimes It's a pain in the (log) butt to have to do it. :-\
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0326.JPG)
Pre-Bibbyed 42" Oak butt log.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0327.JPG)
Post-Bibbyed and ready to saw. ;D
Piston....I can't laugh at you but I can laugh WITH you! :D I have been through the same thing when I got my LT 40.
WHAT A STORY & pics to boot. We all should chip in and send you a new Logrite! ;D
Now that you have sawed the log, the answer is no.....the log was not to big....Juuuuuuust right.
You've have your confidence built up now and a BACKHOE!
You da man! Love your post! 8)
Poston
Don't let that log get the best of you. You got worse situations comming. Just saw some more of those big oaks and it will get easier.
LEON
Good job on a giant log. I've spent too many days messing around with logs that are too big for the mill. One question, why didn't you just cut the log in half (length)? I know 7' oak boards may not be perfect, but it sure makes turning and handling a LOT easier.
Ryan
Don't say you will never do it again. I have learned lots of tricks on handling the big ones. Every one you do will be a little bit easier than the last. This is a great story keep up the can do spirit.
Ohhh...that hadta suck...nothing wrong with six or seven foot lumber...just sayin... lol
I would have cut it in half too..... :).
Great pics! I enjoyed your adventure almost as much as you did ;D. My biggest log on my LT15 was a 28", 10 1/2 foot pecan log :).
14' is outside of my league. Luckily, I don't have a bed extension, so I am limited to the damage that I can do :D.
Oh, and I bet that you do, do it again :o.
You'll always remember the hardest toughest logs. The lumber you get, if you keep it, will hold those stories well.
I ran into the same problem, except my big log was a 25' Hemlock that was 26" on the butt end. I had to whittle it down and use the tractor forks to turn it. Those 5x10" rafters now are part of my cathedral roof.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13550/BIGLOGS_006_28Small29.JPG)
Nas,
That's a nice machine you have there! That log looks like a beast! 8)
Dodgy,
I thought for a millionth of a second about trying to winch, parbuckle, or roll that log onto the trailer. I quickly decided....NOPE!
A few of you asked why I didn't cut that log in half. Well, it sure does seem obvious to me NOW :D :D
I ask myself that, why on earth, did I need to keep that log 14'? haha. No reason. I originally thought it would be neat for a 14' wide room to have full length flooring with no seems, now I really don't care about seems! ;D
IF I ever mill another log like that one (I'm still skeptical :D) I will cut it in half, unless I'm using it for timber framing or have some weird desire for long boards.
MM,
Your "Bibby'd" log is a lot neater than mine ;D
What do you have stacked in the background of that pic? It looks like all half logs of some type?
Poston,
I suppose your right, I guess now that it's milled, I proved it wasn't TOO big. 8) I did feel really good about it after all the hard work was done and I got the boards stacked and stickered under cover. I sat down in the chair right next to the stack and had a cold beer admiring my work ;)
I sure would love one of those hydraulic mills now! :D
As much of a pain as that log was to saw, turning it was actually pretty easy now that I think back. The machine did all the work and (almost) nothing was damaged. ;D
Here are the last few pics of the lumber in it's resting place. When I get home I think I'm gonna go have another beer with my lumber. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/photo_28229.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/photo_28129.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/photo.JPG)
In magicmans picture, that is obviously the slab pile. PC
Piston,flooring is better in shorter legnths anyways.I try to avoid big long heavy logs but I'am in the middle of cutting out a post and beam barn for a fella.I need many 8x8"x14' oak timbers,thank the mill gods for my home made two plain clamp/turner I've never had a log it wouldn't turn.Matt stop over and have a look at it easy to build,or go to the pineywoods turner.Hydraulics make all the differance,remember you won't always be young and strong. Frank C.
Great job 8)
I've had a bit of experience turning logs on the mill with a backhoe.... sure hate it when it is in Just the right spot and then you discover that the chain is pinned between the log and a crossmember...
Quote from: paul case on December 16, 2011, 07:12:00 AM
In magicmans picture, that is obviously the slab pile. PC
At quick glance, it looked much too neat to be a slab wood pile. Mine looks nothing like that ;D
Frank,
I'd like to stop over sometime to see that setup. ;D
Quote from: Piston on December 16, 2011, 02:59:03 AM
Nas,
That's a nice machine you have there! That log looks like a beast! 8)
I wish that was my machine :) :) I am fortunate enough to have an uncle that has a landscaping company around the corner from me. He has a couple of these machines that I can borrow when I have logs I can't lift with my own machines. 8) 8)
Nick
Nas,
I know what you mean, the backhoe I'm using actually belongs to my father, but we have an agreement that what's his is mine and whats mine is his ;D
I can use the backhoe whenever I want and he can use my tractor whenever he wants.
Plus if (when) either one of us break something we don't hold a grudge against the other guy ;)
8) Great story and a good job, thanks for sharing
Oh...you will mill big logs again...wide boards are as irresistable as baby ducks and redheaded twins...
Quote from: zopi on December 16, 2011, 09:55:06 AM
..........as irresistable as baby ducks and redheaded twins...
Hopefully for different reasons Zopi! ;D
My sons have a different saying, goes like this.
What's mine is mine and what's Dad's is also. :D
:D
My wife says just about the same thing to me.....
"Whats yours is mine and whats mine is mine"
I did not make the saying up...I have a little "niece," as one winds up with with all the brothers and sisters in the service....oh I wish she were twins...she is almost as fun to spoil as grandkids...
Love those wide boards.
my noorwood is 24in max. I snap a chalk line down the middle of the log and 2 tanks of gas in the chainsaw later i split it down the middle takes about 20min. cut alittle at a time and keep the saw moving. just bought a 36in bar to replace the 20in on my saw can't wait to try it should be easyer on my back less bending over.
Live and learn. Just keep on keeping on,,,,,It gets better...
I'll throw in a few bonus pics from earlier in that day ;D
These were all small logs but gave some nice looking lumber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00013.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00014.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00015.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00017.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00018.jpg)
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17127/Image00022.jpg)
Concerning cutting the log in half and quartersawing. We prefer to quartersaw shorter logs for a number of reasons. The first is that qs lumber moves down the length of the board as it dries. Straight edging a 7 or 8 ft board will yield more lumber than a long board, sometimes by quite a bit in qs lumber. My guess is when you go to use it, a lot of those boards will be cut in half anyway just for better recovery. Most qs we do are 7-10 ft long, with 8 the preferred length. Sometimes I think you can read a log a little better for the best qs on a shorter log. Also, I noticed a few knots on the tree, which would be expected on 14 ft. Seems like a lot of times knots and qs don't go well together. The board kind of ripples around the knots worse than flat sawn.
This thread reminds me of that scene in Jaws - "You're going to need a bigger boat" :D
Or a sawmill that you set up around the log right where it's sitting ;)
Ian
I think you got a decent yield out of that log. Fat Olde elf is right - it does get better the more big one you do.
Bob
FWIW I have a bunch of red oak a guy sawed for me on a trailer mounted LT 15 .He didn't have any problems with it .One log was 36" on the butt end .
Fact I've got some 1 by 12's 16 feet long from it .Talk about heavy
I have no idea what engine they use now but that model had a 12 HP Briggs IC engine and walked right through that hard old log .
Now those heavy logs .You can side load a big log with just a little tractor if you know how which is pretty simple .Fact they did it with horses and mules long before tractors were even thought of .
Just a set of ramps with a couple of chains ,just roll the thing right up the ramps ,easy as pie .You'd have to crib up above the fenders on that type trailer with ties or something but it's better than trying to drag a two ton log up on the thing .Geeze you could raise the rear end of the truck off the ground if you didn't bend the trailer frame .
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21488/Big_Oak_Log%7E1.jpg)
The first bigun is the hardest and we were happy just to get this storm damaged white oak on my LT-15 without breaking anything or anybody. Took us a looong time to get the wood out of this one, but after a few more, it started to get almost routine. As they say, you start to learn tricks and after awhile the normal sized trees look small. I had to rip a full length slab off this one with the chainsaw to get the head to clear. Main trick is to not get frustrated, hurried, or herniated!
YellowHammer
Quote from: Piston on December 16, 2011, 02:59:03 AM
MM, What do you have stacked in the background of that pic?
Just some SYP slabs from some beetle killed trees. I had to slab them heavy to get away from the grub damaged sapwood.
I milled several 30" white and red oaks on the LT15 and it was tough. But it sure made some nice woodwork for the cabin. But I've had to pass up some really nice logs that were just too big to handle. Buy or make friends with a swinger owner! :D
This thread brings back some memories. I always tried to find something else to do when dad needed to cut large pieces of oak on the table saw, that stuff is heavy and the smell less than appetizing.
It is amazing that no matter what kind of sawmill that you have, you have to have support equipment to handle logs, especially big logs. There is a lot more to it than the cost of the sawmill. I have a LT15 that costs $6800 new today, but I am feeding it with a $30,000 tractor :).
Quarter sawing a big log like Yellowhammer's white oak requires cutting the log into at least three cants, none of which can be easily handled by hand.
WDH,
That is actually the reason I don't have a hydraulic mill. I would love have one and hope to someday, but I looked at it like I would rather have a manual mill, and some equipment, than just a hydraulic mill. I use the tractor a lot more than the mill so it only makes sense for me. Of course, the big difference is I'm doing this as a hobby only, and not making any money off anything I do. If that were the case I'd invest in a hydraulic mill.
When I come across a log that is tough to handle, or I start drooling over pictures of all you guys with the hydraulic mill setups, I try to look at it like this: If I were using an Alaskan Mill or something similar, it would take me twice as long as the LT15, or for instance, I'll sit back and try to think of how they did things in the good old days, and appreciate how nice I have it now. It helps me look at the positive features of the equipment I have, rather than what it can't do. ;)
Quoteor I start drooling over pictures of all you guys with the hydraulic mill setups
I just re read my post and it sounded wrong.....
Just to clarify, I'm drooling over the pictures of the mills...not the guys with the mills :D
Quote from: WDH on December 18, 2011, 09:16:36 PM
It is amazing that no matter what kind of sawmill that you have, you have to have support equipment to handle logs, especially big logs. There is a lot more to it than the cost of the sawmill. I have a LT15 that costs $6800 new today, but I am feeding it with a $30,000 tractor :).
Quarter sawing a big log like Yellowhammer's white oak requires cutting the log into at least three cants, none of which can be easily handled by hand.
I like how you compared support equipment to cost of the mill. I have a old farm tractor to move logs, but hope get a log arch built soon. I can then pull logs to the mill with a lawn tractor or pickup. At least there will be options when tractor eventually bombs.
Keeping the logs clean is much easier when you can pick-up the logs and carry them to your saw. Trying to clean muddy logs in the winter is tough. So far I've been able to lift all the logs that I've had to saw. It's been close a few times.
I find the log arch very helpful in moving large timbers off the mill........ as well as moving logs to the mill .
Its handy for getting long timbers down the drive or between the trees too. ;)
Great job there, Piston- when I had my manual mill, I had Katrina logs and the worst one was a pecan that was just a little too big for the mill. Trimmed it and got some beautiful slabs and lumber, which reminds me: have to go dig them out of the stack they're stickered in and see how they came out after five years of air drying... :o
All this talk brings to mind an invention we need, sort of like the equipment you can get now that will lock onto a log, cut it at the base, hold it horizontal while you trim off branches and bark, then cut the log to length as you stack in the nice, neat pile of all-the-same length logs nearby. Why not a woodmizer on tracks with a crane arm instead of hydraulic lift arms? You roll up to that oversize log, grab it with the crane and lift it onto the bed, use the rail-mounted chain saw to trim pieces sticking out too far (like a radial arm saw maybe but sliding on the same rails as the band mill head?), then slice it up with the band mill head, followed by stacking and stickering it on a pallet that you use the crane to move over to the flatbed for loading and hauling, all done in the field. Only thing left when you leave is a pile of sawdust and a pile of branches and slabs. You bring the stickered and stacked pallet loads home ready to air- or kiln-dry. Shoot, bring the kiln along and do that while you finish cutting and sawing. Even better, put up a sign on the road and sell all the dried lumber before you leave- nothing to bring home but your equipment and a pocket full of cash.
Ok, so it is Christmas time and we all thing about that wish-list of gifts we want from Santa- he does have a Woodmizer, right?
Lj
I just read this thread through and enjoyed it very much. Piston, when I saw the pictures of the blade stuck in the log I burst out laughing. I've done that too! Big logs on a manual mill can be a challenge. I usually saw 8 foot logs so I can turn them. I almost always work alone. With pine I'll go with 8 or 12 footers.
Great pictures, great thread, thanks.
Thanks Cutterboy!
LJ,
Your wish list mill sort of reminded me of something I've had in the back of my mind to build some day. I'd like to build a log trailer for sort of small scale hobby logging (on my own land). One of the designs I came up with, was for the base of the log trailer to be wide enough to fit the LT15. I thought if I built a log trailer with bunks, and with a log loader, I would size it so it could lift the mill up using slings, then place it right down between the foldable bunks. If I wanted to mill a log in the woods, or a pile of logs, I would tow the log trailer and mill through the woods using my tractor, then park it right next to the pile of logs, so they were within reach of the log loader. THen I would load one log on at a time and mill it. Now obviously the problem with this would be the mill would be too high off the ground to operate from the ground, so I thought I would make my bunks foldable, as in they would fold down 90° so they were flat, parallel with the ground and mill, then I could place some 2x material across the bunks, on each side of the mill, which would give me about 4' of walkable area on each side of the mill.
It's tough to explain and I haven't made a sketchup drawing of it yet, but it's something I've been thinking about. I would be able to unload the mill and use the log trailer as a normal trailer. Most likely I'll never do it, but you got me thinking again. :D :D
Qwinton,
WHat is the lift capacity of your 110?
Merry Christmas everyone! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
What works well for a log trailer is a tilt bed with a beavertail on the back,make it a stern hauler.A winch on the front to pull your mill or logs on.If you put a real winch with no duty cycle and a long cable you can pull logs up hill or out of swamps. Frank C.
Cutterboy, I think the specs put the lift capacity of the 110 at @ 2000 lb. But I've frequently lifted over 3000 with it. The trick is to get the load as far back on the forks as possible or hang the load on chains as far back on the FEL arms as you can get them. I often get heavy loads back far enough that the logs bearly clear the front of the tractor. Welding grab hooks on the arms make this easier. WARNING: bubble-gum welds will not work here!
Quinton
I too have had a blade stuck like that once or twice.
I had the blade stuck Friday, and had to chain saw the stock in order to release the blade.
I was sawing the last pieces of that 100 year old "live oak" that was from the Navy yard. That was some of the hardest wood I've ever sawed. And heavy too.
We loaded the forks of his forklift with just about every piece of 2 1/2" thick bench seat I cut off the timbers.
I also have cut the "bell" end of a large log in order to get the blade to pass through it.
Sometimes I only roll the log 1/8 of a turn to saw off nubs or other root flair parts, until it's small enough to make it cut-able. Sort of making the butt end like a pencil point.
I have also cut full pieces on 1/8 turn in order to get a large log small enough to mill through and through.
Sawing large logs can be a challenge and it is truly a learning experience.
We've also had to chain saw a notch down the side of a log in order to get the blade guide by, because the log was so large.
My 2nd cousin, god rest his soul, and his son wanted one large red oak log saw up and they wanted 24" wide boards. I cautioned them about trying to save and use these wide boards of oak, but that's what they wanted so I made it for them.
Piston, nice write up and pictures.
I hope you've learned something from this experience.
Jim Rogers
I'm cutting pine 8 to 14 ft. Got a small tractor with forks and just about topped out with it. Last week I lost all the liquid in the right rear. Could't lift any thing. Been a log week with out the tractor.
Gnawing at tree buts is for beavers, not men. ;)
Sorry, gotta find my entertainment someplace. :D
This was a joy to read. :)
If a fella with a small bandmill cuts alot of oversized logs it would pay to build a dedicated chainsaw slabber that could be picked up by two guys and set on the mill track.It could be adjustable up and down or set to a hight that the sawhead could handle.Probibly the most you would have to make is two cuts before the bandmill could handle it. Frank C.
No matter what size sawmill that you have, given enough time, you will try to saw a "too large" log. I guess that is just our nature. The sawhead on my WM will only raise 36". Any log larger that 36" is going to be a pain and require extra work to get-r-done.
Too large logs generally require support equipment such as a tractor with a FEL. With it, they are easier, but without they are no fun. But I still do it. :-\
no matter how big the mill you need bigger, and you will bite off more than you can chew. my first couple of logs yeilded some 28" wide soft maple boards that are still laying in the shop. I have no idea what i'll use them for, but getting a couple giant boards is too cool at first! I think you did a great job on that log..and you got alot of experience outta one log too! (funny how at the time it's a "pain in the ---! It's only after the fact that it becomes valuable experience :D )
There's no such thing a a log thats too big. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11043/PICT0381.JPG)
Only a mill that is too small. ;)
Or a bar that is too short. :D
Piston,
Funny thing, my wife has the same posture whenever she's watching me run the mill.
I've got decent support equipment around the mill but am running a manual like you are. Whenever I have big logs (like always) my method to turn them is still manual:
Get yourself a "handyman" jack -don't know the correct name but they're an overgrown bumper jack on steroids.....about 4 feet tall. Place it on one side of the log, and wrap a chain underneath the log, and attach to a grab hook driven into the log(long forgotten but handy logging widget)on the other side near the top. If you don't have one they can be made very easily from plate steel.
-chain attached to the grab hook, runs underneath the log, and hooked to the jack on the other side. Start jacking up, and it rolls the log away from the jack and when it contacts the bunks the log turns....a whole lot easier than a peavy, and easier on the mill than a backhoe. It's also a one-man show, you don't need any help.
I'll try to get some photo's sometime.
Joe.
Joe,
That is a good idea, I've seen those 'Hi Lift' jacks used on jeeps before and never thought of it for the mill. Thanks for the suggestion.
Quote from: Todd on January 02, 2012, 09:38:53 AM
... (funny how at the time it's a "pain in the ---! It's only after the fact that it becomes valuable experience :D )
That is absolutely true! :D :D :D :D :D
The other thing a hi lift is great for is straightening out heavy logs on the ramps as they are winched up to the mill...particularly with the GO kit or a 28/40 manual...
Piston, I turned a 29" oak on my manual mill last week using the high - lift jack method. There's a post started by maple flats 0n 7/05/09 where moonhill has pictures of this method. Thats where I got the idea,
I ran into the same issue this summer. As my mill is small I had to cut it down a little at a time. But I got 2 of the most beautiful Mantel pieces ever. I figured my log to weigh 3K, and I blew out the tire on the skidsteer, but it was worth it and I hope I can do it again!!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27914/IMAG0194.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27914/IMAG0195.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22080/big_oak.jpg) Been there done that but I'll never do it again. It was way to dangerous and time consuming for me. This was a 18' long 34" diameter white oak log. This thing was way to heavy for my TK B-20. I almost done as much cutting with a chainsaw as I did with the mill. I think it ended up being about 15 true 2x8 boards and allot of work. The sad thing is that it had to be cut in the first place. I counted at least 175 rings but some of the rings where so close they where hard to count, so there were probably more than that.
i added a boom for the track I made for my old Hudson mill to turn over cants, it worked well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/boom.JPG)
This is the best way I found to load logs while parbuckling: take a chain and hook it to each end of the mill/trailer, then hook your cable to the middle of the chain, this keeps the log somewhat parallel to the mill/trailer. Otherwise, a log can slip sideways about the time it hits the top.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/parbuckle.jpg)
a morbark stacktrac for big timbers
There was a posting by member BitrrtrBill from Oct 31,2010 titled Another Newbie and he has a picture of a Gantry Style Lift-Hoist looks like a Big Swing set