the set up is fully adjustable
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/23130/DSC01218_28229.jpg)
Just not sure what all is in that pic. A backup bearing for the blade I see. What is above and below the blade?
Looks like its lifting the band and not pushing it down the 1/4" that is usual practice,suppose it would work the same.It dosen't lool like you could cut a 1" last board,too much bearing below the band. Frank C.
ahh good observation bandmiller ..actually i just noticed that after loading the photos however that is one of the benifits of my dual bearing guide ,stableize the blade by means of support on both sides of the band and also the backup bearing ,ill try to get some better pics of the bearings with the blade removed
Quote from: beenthere on January 13, 2012, 07:57:24 PM
Just not sure what all is in that pic. A backup bearing for the blade I see. What is above and below the blade?
each needle roller bearing is 1" dia on a shaft and 1-1/6 wide rideing on the blade
As long as it works for you.
Almost anything is forgiven as long as the lumber comes out true and straight,usally several ways to do something on a mill,but it seems theirs a best way too.My homebuilt guide system has a small hardened pad under the band only about 1/2" so I can cut down to a one inch board and clear the bunks.I not really sure support under the band is needed,if you hit tramp the band is going to go where it wants, a keen well set band will cut true.Frank C.
Looking at your picture, it appears that the needle bearings extend over the teeth. How does that affect your set? can't tell if they're tapered...
Bandmiller2...You're right. a lower skid plate or bearing isn't needed to make straight lumber, but it will minimize the severity of a dive or waves through knots.