Getting tired of running casing with the Belsaw using one knife and counter weights in the other slots. Anybody using three knives? Also, anybody using a Willams & Hussey or the new Grizley clone? Don't do enough moulding for a real machine and don't have the floor space anyhow.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/casing.jpg)
Larry my WoodMaster can be set up with two knifes and
would be willing to help you out. Looks like you have a lot
of moulding to do.
Sawwood
Sawwood,
Were you able to do anything with that Red Beech and Wenge?
Was it machinable?
Den
Lester,
Appreciate the offer but just about done (I hope).
Have to do 200' of 6" crown and 60' of stair hand rail on the shaper but we ran out of dry wood.
I didn't know the WoodMaster used two knives. You might have to give me a demo.
Hey all, Im the newiest guy on the block and want to say how informative this forum is. Thanks
On the topic, I am interested in the woodmaster molder. I have sent for their demo. but since Larry brought it up I would like to ask what he thinks of it and how it stands up to the W & H. It seems like a bargin since it not only does planing and molding but gang sawing too.
Thanks Steve
cozynest, I have a woodmaster 718. I have used it to make all types of molding. Used the resaw option to make the moulding blanks, works well! The change over time for changing operations takes a little longer than what is advertised. The sanding option works quite well. I use two different grits on the drum at the same time to sand boards to finished quality.If you buy one, spend the extra money for the slick bed it's well worth it! I have had my 718 for 11 years, not much trouble for the many thousands of moulding pieces that I've run thru it. Have just about outgrown it, am thinking that I will have to upgrade to something bigger and faster. All in all if I was still small I would buy another one.
Thanks Lanny, so It does sound like a quality machine. Now what does the slick bed do for you?' Don't remember seeing it advertized. The model I'm looking at is the 718. Now I have ordered the demo video cd. It does seem like a real value to me. 8)
Thanks for the input
Steve
cozynest, the slick bed that I was refering to is sold as an accessory by woodmaster. It is a high density plastic surface bedboard that bolts down to the cast iron planer bed.What it does is it gives you a super slick surface for the boards to slide on while going thru the planer. The old method was to wax the cast iron bed and extentions to help the lumber slide . Did it both ways, the plastic works better. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Have been out in the woods getting ready for maple syrup season.
Thats ok Lanny, I got my info on the Woodmaster yesterday and it did show the slick bed. As a matter of fact they are running a special till March 14th on all their products. They have a pro pack deal with all the accessories needed to do the four opreations, the slick bed and some coupons for free or money off molding cutters. The pro pack for the 718 with accessories is only $1770 which is 47% off list price...it sounds like a real deal. I plan to order it Monday.
The wife and I were at a maple syrup camp this morning..we had pancakes ( with Log Cabin syrup ???) and sausage for breakfast. Parke County Indiana is having their Maple syrup festivle now. They said the sap just started running real strong on thursday. We have talked about tapping our trees but heck then I'd have to build another shed for the cooker. Is there no end.?..lol
Thanks
Steve
cozynest, Just one more thing, you will need a good and I do mean good dust collector. My 718 puts out a lot of shavings when planing 7-10"" boards. The 1/2 hp units just don"t handle that volume of material. Had one and found out the hard way. Now I have a 3 hp pennstate and it works pretty well.
Guys i have read some where if you change the dust hood to
a 5 or 6 inch pipe it will help move more chips. I plan on doing
it next week. will take some photos when i git it done.
Sawwood
I knew I would have to upgrade my 1 hp delta. ;D I am planning to get a cyclone unit around 3000 to 4000 cfm. Not sure which brand right now. I am building a new wood shop now ( actually planing to pour the floor in three weeks ) and dust collecting is a main item I need. I've been using my delta and it works good as a portable moving from station to another but that is getting to be a pain.
Sawwood..I'd be interested in your pics of your modification to 6". Sounds like I will want to do that too, so keep me posted.
Thanks,
Steve
I've got an RBI 720, I think they are the same as woodmaster different decals, (someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I have had good luck with the single knive setup, But I would note that if you are thinking on running a lot of moldings and stuff the 2 knife head would be better, and you really don't need the extra width of the machine a narrower 12 or 15 inch bed would be fine just make sure you keep the higher hp motors and variable speed feed capabilities.
Who is using the sanding attachments? I've tried my sander drum with fairly poor results, I've torn the sand paper, and had the velcro set on but the paper was so expensive i changed to the adheasive back. The paper seems to gum right up even with kd hardwoods, any ideas on what might be doing wrong?
? for those running moldings, Are you ripping your stock on a table saw or in your molder with a multi rip head? Are you running your moldings thru a guide set on both sides of the wood or one side with a feather board on the other side? Whats the best way to set up and run? Or am I overcomplicating the process. I have run several hundred feet of crown, door, charir rail, moldings with acceptable results but not quite as perfect as I'd like them.
Eric
FeltzE the RBI and the woodmaster are just about the same
the only diff is the way the cutter block is held in. As for the
sanding i do a lot with my WM and have had no trouble.
The one thing you need to do is when you start sanding
is just run the head down till it just starts sanding. Then
rerun the board threw a couple of times befor you adjust
it. Take small turnes on the handle about 1/8 of a turn and
run the board threw 4 times befor adjusting again. Be sure
you have a good dust collector as it will make lots of dust.
On the moulding i haven't done any but would use the gan
saw in the WM along side the moulding knife. One thing
i need to ask is do you have the verspeed unit on your RBI ?
this one thing will make the unit better.
Sawwood
Yes I have the variable speed head, My biggest problem I think is that I really havn't spent enough time operating the sander, and molder options. Like I said I've only run a total of a cpl thousand feet of moldings on it. I normally am running it primarily as a surface planer and then for the moldings I switch up to the saw head, then off to the molding heads.
Actually I could see operating 2 or three machines set to run various common requirements. But running molding a narrower bed would be a very efficient machine with just one cutter head running 2 blades with alot of hp to drive them.
Eric
FeltzE I use the sanding option on my wm alot. I finish sand boards and gluded up panels. Haven't had many problems with the sanding, I use the velcro back paper. I also thickness then finish sand 1/8-1/4" pieces for scroll sawyers. About the moulding question, I have a older comercial table saw with a homemade power feed that I use to straight line one edge then run it through the wm gang saw. Then through my tilting head resaw to make the blanks. If I am putting a relief in the back of the moulding one moulding head runs the relief on one side and the moulding face on the other.
Thanks for the information, I am probably running too aggresively on my depth of cut with the sanding head on.
Eric
I had another thought. How do you guys sharpen your molding knives. Seems that the intricate profiles my be hard to sharpen on a stone.
Thanks,
Steve
Aren't moulding cutters back sharpened?
woodmills1, I use a local sharping service. They have a profile grinder. If you have never seen one, they work alot like a key duplicator. You need a profile which the machine indexes off of and just follows along it. Much like a duplicator on a lathe. Have been thinking about getting one for myself just to avoid the hassle of dropping them off and sometimes having to wait longer than I would like for them to be done. Machine costs about 4-5 grand used, then the grinding profiles.
Thanks Lanny, kinda what I figured I do my own sharpening now on my chisels and knives guess I'll need to find a good sharpening service :'(,
Steve