well i finally get my new skidder. I found a immaculate c6. It is in perfect condition. It has a 453 turbo with 28lx26 tires and a can car 20 winch. I cant wait to post pics
I can't wait for you to post pics either ;D
Tease! :D
I'm glad you got what you've been looking for. That 453 will Raddle the woods.
it has the power and size that i have been wanting.
Congratulations on the C6!! Too bad it has a can car winch... most horrible winch ive ever used, Our c5 has one on it, i hate it, rebuilt entire insides and still free spools like crap but pulls like a bear!! GOOD LUCK WITH THE NEW MACHINE TREEFARMER!
thanks do you like the gearmatic 19 better than the cancar 20? Is the cancar 20 sealed like a gearmatic 19 or unsealed like a 119
Gday
Congrats on the New Skidder ;) ;D 8) You have earned it Mate ;)
Regards Chris
thanks
I've got an old C6CD (1969) It used to have a Perkins 6-354 but I replaced it with a cummins 5.9, much quieter. Mine has a Carco model 100 for the winch. Seems like Treefarmer had all sorts of engine and winch combinations on their skidders, they are simple to work on and seem to last. If you subscibe to the Sawlog Bulletin I made the cover of the February 15 issue for its Old Iron section.
I used the 9, 19, 20 and the 119 gearmatic winch. I basically didn't see any difference in them, they ether pulled out hard or they free spooled. I liked it when it free spooled, easy on the back, shoulders and arms.
The Allen screw on top of the winch is supposed to control the free spool. For some reason it seems to be to short, put a longer bolt in place of the allen screw, should slow free spool down. You can change adjustments on the brake band all so, but once i got mine to free spool i wanted to leave good enough alone.
I rented a C6 one winter to help out. It had the Perkins 6 cylinder with a Allison, it was really different to run. The throttle pedal was on the left hand
side, the brake on the right, this worked good for decking, you could use the blade, brake and throttle all the same time. [that was a mouth full]
My S8 had the brake on the left side, throttle on right hand side, So if you've been running one or the other for awhile it got confusing. [Think about this]
its is set up like my c5 clutch on the left and the throttle and brake on the left
Show us some pictures! We are waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! eh eh
treefarmer87 your saying its a straight stick ! I want to drive it, so i can see how bigg-a tree i can push over. :D
Yea i bet it has power. When i tried it out i pushed a big gum top no problem. I will post pics by this upcoming wed. I cant wait to get it. I am going to take it slow from now on, no need to rush. Ill take easily make 2 or 3 a day
were are the pics? come on we are waiting.
heres one from my phone. its kinda blurry
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21384/21B0eKpM21BGk7E_28KGrHqMOKj0E29oHz2BVzSBM2CdJN2eW217E7E_1234.jpg)
NICE!!!! One mean looking Machine, now pull the same loads that you were trying to pull with the C5. When i could pull 8, i took 6 for trouble free skidding.
thanks. im sure it will save time. im going to take my time, and go slow.
Quote from: treefarmer87 on March 31, 2012, 01:24:23 PM
heres one from my phone. its kinda blurry
That's ok so is my vision. :D
Looks like it should work great for you.
i get it in 3 days cant wait!
Looks good bro. Well from what we can see :D
Nice machine!!
tried it out today 2 drags loaded the truck. I will take the camera tomm.
time for a bigger truck now ;D
it would be nice. Gotta make some money first
i think the head messed up on the last drag. It started blowing gray smoke and antifreeze out the air line. But ut didnt get hot. The guy i got it from is going to get it fixed for me or get me a new motor.
This is a good example why i leased the first 90 days. Theres a number of things that will cause this, but its his problem. I'm sure glad hes going to fix it. treefarmer87 the lord is testing you, hang in there things will be going your way real soon. I don't now why, but it seems like he likes to pick on us loggers. You'll learn though all this and come out a better man at the end.
That sure is a PITA but it is good that it happened so soon while the seller is still willing to stand behind the machine. Just think it could have happened a few months down the road and then you would probably be stuck with it. ::)
yep, i took the air box off today and it has a busted piston :(. i called him and he has a brand new spare 453 motor that i am going to get tomm. afternoon.
ive been down the detroit rd on my first clark 667 skidder. it had the 453 turbo and would pull some wood but i had to build it every year. one thing or the other would happen to it and it would have to be torn down. while i had it apart i couldnt stomach the thought of not going ahead and freshening the thing.
what motor is in the clark you have now?
Most likely a cummins.
if i had the money i would put a cummins in my c6.
She'll be rite Mate ;D ;D smiley_thumbsup Its good he is standing by you with getting it sorted out as LJ said the big fellas tesing you stick with it and you will be rewarded mate ;) ;D 8) 8) as i say if this game was easy every idiot would be having a crack :) :) some do but they dont last long :D :D
my f66g has a 6bt cummins in it. the tag says it 220 hp, its a reman motor. its starting to get a little blowby but its still pulling wood.
thats what i want to put in my c6
I got 8+ yrs out of a rebuilt 3-53, this is pulling wood 10 months out of a yr, 400 to a 1000 cds a month. I think the cold winter months takes the life out of them. When you have to restart 3 or 4 times to get the oil pressure up. This is running 15-40 weight oil at -20 to -40, Detroit is dead against running a multi-grade oil. They want straight 30 or 40 weight Rotella, this was manufacture recommended. At -20, 30 weight wouldn't pour, this would really make start up hard with out heating the oil. My father used straight 10 weight in the cold months in his 3-53 with out a problem.
If i were back running Detroit i would run straight 40 full Synthetic oil year
round.
TF87 i would put the 4-53 back in for now, and be looking for a good Cummins to have ready for the swap.
thats what i plan on. I have to go get the 453 tomm evening. The guy has a 453 that has been recently rebuilt.
Detroit specs a straight weight oil for the two stroke engines... Delo 100 in 40 weight for summer use matches the spec the closest. Shell Rotella straight weight barely meets the spec for sulfated ash. The correct spec is CF11.
There also seems to be another spec of CF2 that will work... Further study may be required...
HTH
I'm talking 25 yrs ago thats what Detroit said to run, Rotella, low ash oil. The last one i had rebuilt, thats what they put in it and told me to run.
I'm sure oils have changed over the years.
most of the stuff made before my time was better quality :)
I have yet to see the compelling reason for running straight weight oils in a Detroit. I follow that you need a low ash oil. I would like to run 5w-40 synthetic, I have Rotella 15w-40 in mine right now.
I run 5w-40 synthetic in all my diesels detroit, ford/newholand, kubota, and cummins. They all seen to like it. It dropped the opperating temp almost 5 degrees in the Kubota.
Woody
I've ran 20w-50 Mobile 1 in my 99 Ford van 4.6 V8 for 10 yrs, year round. It has never had a heater on it, the van has never failed to start right down to -40, with no engine rattle. It was 240,000 miles on it, doesn't use any oil, oil pressure gauge is the same as from day one, not one leak, motor sounds like new, knock on wood.
The point I'm making is, I'm a full believer in synthetic oil.
TF87 keep us posted on that C6
I like the synthetics too, it seems like the message is synthetic is great, modern oils are way better than what you could get 30 years ago (even conventional), but straight weight dinosaur oil is all you should run in a detroit diesel. Why? What is the mechanical, scientific reason that a detroit is supposed to run straight weight? I am not pointing this at you guys, just in other places I've read, the usual Q and A goes something like "What oil should I run in my DD?" Straight weight only! "Why?" Usually some stupid answer like "they like it better" "detroits are happier on straight grade" etc. If you were to ask me if you could run Valvoline 10w-30 in a 5.9 Cummins, I would answer no, you shouldn't. Why? Because Valvoline is only a gasoline engine grade oil, it does not have the shear strength to protect a diesel engine because of the more extreme loads they produce. I'd never answer "cause they like it better". But those are the kinds of answers I always get when I ask about oil for Detroits. I finally just put 15w-40 Rotella in my Detroit, I may just get brave and switch it to 5w-40 synthetic next time
i run rotella 15w-40 in any desiel.
I ran my 4-53 for 11yrs with 2 bent rods a broken skirt and a wore out cam(didn't know it tho till we rebuilt it).I ran 15-40 rotella the whole time.
When it was rebuilt,I asked if I should have been running 30w and thet said nope,run 15-40 but if I go to synthetict don't go back afterwards.
TF87 put the 4-53 in,I think you'll see a difference in power,as the old one could have been like mine (they'll run forever even when sick) ;D .
Heres a oil chart, for what it means
http://extranet.detroitdiesel.com/support/on-highway/manuals/lubricants_fuels_coolants/Power_Guard_Oils/index4print_93K218.asp
when the new motor is idling it has 75 lbs oil pressure. When you give it the throttle it has almost 90 lbs
Seems all-full high to me, i've never had one run over 45-50 lbs full throttle.
Quote from: treefarmer87 on April 09, 2012, 09:25:01 PM
when the new motor is idling it has 75 lbs oil pressure. When you give it the throttle it has almost 90 lbs
sumpin wrong there. detriot tech manual says 5 to 10psi at idle hot 50wide open is good. the never ending fight over oil. my guess on detriot saying run 40# is cause its a 2 stroke the rings are running up an down those liners that are all full of holes....the intake ports
All gauges read a little different..
my c5 would run 50lbs full throttle. Maybe the gauge is reading wrong
Forum rules forbid single links but this site is very informative for Detroit engines. There are pics of damage from multi-weight oils. Your mileage may vary.
http://www.tejascoach.com/
Here's another. http://www.expertdiesel.com/
Thanks for the link, Scott. The Expertdiesel site gave some good explanations for straight weight oil. For starters, Detroits have cast iron pistons (I didn't know that) machined to very tight tolerances, and the rings are designed to slice the oil off the cylinder walls, which multi-vis oils don't stand up to very well. Good food for thought.
Cast Iron Pistons ??I have rebuilt quite a few 71 series and a few 53 series in my career haven't seen one with cast iron pistons,how about cast aluminum pistons.
the cross head pistons had a cast iron insert or 2 peice pistons. i havent seen one in many years. the 71 series sometimes used them
Quote from: s grinder on April 10, 2012, 05:14:36 PM
Cast Iron Pistons ??I have rebuilt quite a few 71 series and a few 53 series in my career haven't seen one with cast iron pistons,how about cast aluminum pistons.
Got me- that's what the site said. I've never seen a cast iron piston, but I've never been inside a Detroit either.
Hey Snowstorm,We are showing are age when we start talking about 71 series Detroits.Cross head pistons were introduced in the early seventies,replaced the one piece[trunk type] piston.
Trunk type pistons for 53 series N (21:1) ARE cast Iron. There is one sitting on the desk next to me with magnets stuck to it and some orange surface rust spots. ::) Detroit oil should be 40 wt oil that has less than 1 percent ASH. If the oil has the designation CF-2 it is approved for Detroit 2 strokes. The oil chart that was posted by lumberjack48 is for the newer Detroit 4 strokes. Synthetic is not necessarily a good choice for Detroit's because it has not been tested in this type of engine. The 2 strokes are different operating conditions than 4 strokes. Over many decades and many million operating hours the recommendation for oil for Detroit 2 strokes evolved. You can find older Detroit manuals from the late 70s and early 80s that recommend multigrade oil. They tried it and after comparing worn parts found out that it did not do a good job. 2 strokes consume more Oil and make it dirtier than a comparable 4 strokes because of the Blower/transfer-ports/airbox. You should change the oil more often than a 4 stroke. Synthetic is therefore a waste of money with no proof that it works better.
treefarmer87 is the engine fully warmed up with that oil pressure?
TF87 the first thing is to change the gauge.
the motor was sitting in a shop when he cranked it up, i have a feeling the gauge was reading wrong. it had was hooked up at the oil pump ???. no it was like that cold start ???
You have to check the Oil pressure when the motor is fully warmed up 180 and run long enough to heat the oil. My 6v53 has 60lbs at Idle when it first starts and 10lbs when it is warm. I would not worry about the oil pressure it will probably be fine when it is working.
Quote from: grassfed on April 11, 2012, 08:00:45 AM
Trunk type pistons for 53 series N (21:1) ARE cast Iron. There is one sitting on the desk next to me with magnets stuck to it and some orange surface rust spots. ::) Detroit oil should be 40 wt oil that has less than 1 percent ASH. If the oil has the designation CF-2 it is approved for Detroit 2 strokes. The oil chart that was posted by lumberjack48 is for the newer Detroit 4 strokes. Synthetic is not necessarily a good choice for Detroit's because it has not been tested in this type of engine. The 2 strokes are different operating conditions than 4 strokes. Over many decades and many million operating hours the recommendation for oil for Detroit 2 strokes evolved. You can find older Detroit manuals from the late 70s and early 80s that recommend multigrade oil. They tried it and after comparing worn parts found out that it did not do a good job. 2 strokes consume more Oil and make it dirtier than a comparable 4 strokes because of the Blower/transfer-ports/airbox. You should change the oil more often than a 4 stroke. Synthetic is therefore a waste of money with no proof that it works better.
treefarmer87 is the engine fully warmed up with that oil pressure?
i dont have a 53 book my 92 tech manual says cross head pistons have a cast iron head the lower part alu.
We still NEED skidder pics . What size timber are u logging . With the stuff I'm logging , 1/3 rd-1/2 cord per tree average I don't think u could pull 8 snares . Unless it is alot bigger machine than I think it is . . A Mountain Logger 200 with a 6-53 will only pull 3 cord . ??
Growing up in Maine , a 3-53 powered skidder was considered a cord and a half machine . .
But , this ground loggin is kind of new to me and theres ALOT that I don' t know .
i havent been over to where i am cutting to take any. My mechanic is coming mon to put the motor in. I usually cut oak and poplar 2-3 ft across the stump. I usually cut only logs
tf87 you should run Rotella T1 40 weight.
I skidded twice as much wood pulling 1/2 as much as i could pull. Because i could travel faster, never in a bind, not busting the mainline, ect, you go back an forth like a type writer.
I cut big wood 33' long, you get around easier, and they pull easier.
I could pull 2+ cds with my S8, 3-53, but this is with all tires loaded, bear paws on the front, and the 3-53 cranked out to 3200 rpm with a 4 speed Funk Power Shift. This machine was fun to run, you can't just put anybody on a skidder like this. A person has to have experience running a Power shift or one shift could cost $5000.+ by burning the tran up.
how many trees would you put behind my c6
I read this from my 53 series service manual-the pistons are of the malleable iron trunk type with a protective coating of tin which provides close fitting and reduces scuffing.
The tin coating makes them look like they are aluminum.
Quote from: treefarmer87 on April 14, 2012, 10:05:19 PM
how many trees would you put behind my c6
This all depends what kind of ground a guy is on. My method is hook up x trees, if it pulls to hard on hook x trees. You want to be going back and forth comfortably, not fighting with a big twitch. You don't make money, spinning and jerking, just bust things up. A guys not out there to see how much the skidder can pull. Your out there to put wood on the landing and having fun doing it. If your not having fun, something is wrong, a guy has to regroup and start over. Sometimes a guy should go home, start fresh in the morning.
Go light go often that way you don't break stuff and at the end of the day you will have just as much wood on the landing if not more
that makes good sense
the new motor should be back in tomm.
Don't let that detroit worry you. I bought a nice 230E jack one time that was pushing oil out the exhaust. Took a chance it was seals in the blower on the advice of my mechanic. Ran it for 6 or seven months after I had blower rebuilt. It would push out about a half gallon a day. I had him rebuild motor in the spring someone had been into motor and the wrist pin had worn an eigth inch groove in the cylinder wall. Still had plenty of power why I don't know. This was around 2000. I think it cost around 1200 for an inframe overhaul. Still kicking myself for trading machine was the best one I've owned.
Tf . Got it running yet ?
the detriot goes in mon. 8) all new seals all over the motor. i cant wait to start working again :)
Great !! You'll be Loggin Now ! Will nee 8) :Dd pics . Video even better.
i will def. take some pics.
Is the new motor in and where are the pic
i have to make a trip to the forestry and construction warehouse tomm.- to get a clutch and throw-out bearing :(.
For a guy who has taking pictures of every piece of equipment in Virginia , he is awfully slow to take a picture of this C6! We are wondering if it is camera shy or what ??? eh eh
:D :D ::) :)
i will when i get the motor back in i promise. i feel kind of down about all the problems i have been having :(
dont let it get to you. all machines break the key is to not have too many machines that can break.
Quote from: snowstorm on April 25, 2012, 08:04:54 AM
dont let it get to you. all machines break the key is to not have too many machines that can break.
Never have gotten my arms around that concept either! :D TF, Hang in there buddy!
I would say a slow mechanic, swapping engines, 2 days with problems. The worst part is the waiting, it would drive me crazy. I used to work around the clock to get a machine up an running. There was no use going to bed, can't sleep anyway, my mind would keep flashing, what i had to do next, whats parts do i need, did i do this, did i do that right, ect.
treefarmer87 your a gypo logger, theres not many can do it, i think you have it. Start diving in an getting things done, thats how you learn.
One day about 3 pm, we had a flat tire on the S8. I was getting the tools out of the pickup and here comes the C5 to a engine shut off stop, the clutch went out. So here i am 2 skidders down in a half-hour. I had the guys help load the tire, that i would usually fix my self. The crew said when you've got-em up and running give-em a call. I did a little thinking, the Co-op in Blackduck will fix the tire and Treefarmer sales is open till 6. I took off for Blackduck [30 miles] got there about 4:30, ran in to the office. I knew they were going to tell me it was to late to fix the tire. It was lucky that i knew a couple guys that worked there. I said $50. bonus if its fixed by 6 so i can pick it up on my way back from Bemidji. So off to Bemidji [24 miles] got there about 5:30. What took so long, the Hwy Patrol stopped me [84 mph] gave me a warning. I told him i was on a parts run[ he bowled with my dad ;D I got the pressure plate and a brass button clutch disk. Got the tire on the way back, pulled back on the job about 7 pm. First thing i put the tire back on the S8. Now fix the C5, i had put a few clutches in, but i had no help this time. I put a chain around the canopy above the seat, took the seat off. Then i took a rope, put it though the chain an down to the trany. Tied the rope where i figured the tran an bell housing would balance. Then i cut a stick just the right length to catch the canopy bars. So i put the stick through the rope an give it a couple turns just to take the weight off trany. Then drop drive shaft an unbolt the bell housing, my rope worked perfect. It goes back just far enough to take the pressure plate off. O-NO i didn't have a line up tool, this a tool to hold your clutch disk lined up with the pilot
bearing so the trany will go back in. Theres always a way, i made one out of a piece of basswood. Everything went back together slick-as snot on a stick. I was back home about 10, and on the phone, be to work at 7 am boys were ready to roll. 8)
that was a good quick fix. i should be up and running before the weekend :)
Good luck TF!
Try and get us some pictures of that big horse.
I had a in frame rebuild done on my C5, took 1.5 days
if this would have only come up for sale a few weeks ago :'(
http://www.equipmenttraderonline.com/find/listing/-TIMBERJACK-230D-Skidder-103477528
Lumberjack, your crew already had their lake picked out for their bonus day off :D TF, a guy can get pretty down when equipment is giving you fits. Hang in there, it'll come together.
TF87 you'll be much happier with your C6, for you its more practical. You can still CTL in big timber, i did it this way a lot. Especially if it was muddy or had limited landing space. I used 7' chockers, 6' are to short, 8' are to long, i found them to work much better.
TF back when i was running two skidders, 1 yr i was broke down 1 day every day for a yr. Even the grew asked me, [how can you take it] i said things will get better, they'll be new pretty soon.
You'll have that 4-53 back, then you'll raddle an shake the trees like a big Alligator.
A forwarder would be great if you were working with a processor but I think that the C6 cable skidder will make you more $ if you are hand felling/limbing. As far as breakdowns be glad you are young now that I am over 50 I tend to breakdown more than my equipment. ::)
That's a super price if the description is true :-\
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21384/P1020882.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21384/P1020879.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21384/P1020880.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21384/P1020883.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21384/P1020881.JPG)
The rear shot makes it look 12 feet wide!!!
Its a nice looking skidder! Any idea when the motor goes back in? You will be in heaven when youn start working it!
TF your new skidder looks pretty much like my C7 grapple. One thing I did was made doors and windshield and put lex ann in the rest of it I got tired of frezzing wind and snow or ice on the seat in the winter time. I used quarter in rebar criss crossed on the doors with removeable lex ann so the summer heat can escape. Good luck with her one thing about Treefarmers there made like a tank so you have something to work with once you get the repairs done it should last you many years.
thanks for the info autocar, i might do that to mine :). the motor was supposed to be in fri. he will prob put it in mon, hopefully. those 28Ls do make it wide, i could only imagine what 34s or even 67x44s look like
TF 87 . That machine looks like its tougher than twisted cougar poo!
Looks Great !!
Sweet!!
Treefarmer, i got a C5 the same style as your C6! The guy before me repowered itr with a john deere motor! Sweet old skidder. If you ever come across a nice cummins or john deere i would grab it for a spare.
TF nice machine, you'll be a happy logger with it.
thats what i have been wanting to do wood hauler :) would i have to put a different trans. in it? thanks, i really like it. unless i ever upgade to a way newer machine, this is the last skidder i will buy. i really like this machine :)
Quote from: treefarmer87 on April 29, 2012, 10:21:29 AM
thats what i have been wanting to do wood hauler :) would i have to put a different trans. in it? thanks, i really like it. unless i ever upgade to a way newer machine, this is the last skidder i will buy. i really like this machine :)
Mine has same trans and driveline. If i remember cummins offered a kit to fit there motor in any skidder. Just let them know what it is and they got the right bell housing and stuff.
you need my 18.4x34 tires for that thing nice machine more than you will ever be able to wear out by yourself
i do think it needs smaller tires
The tires are all right in clear cut, you'd be in trouble in selective cutting. My S8 had the same size, the wife was in trouble all the time. She was used to if the blade fit threw the skidder would. They are absolutely worthless in deep snow. I ran 18.4 - 26's, i know everybody is go to say 18.4 - 34's. I've ran-em both over many yrs in deep snow, mud, and hills, clear cut, selective cut, and row-cut. If that was my machine and i wanted it to pull like a team of Mules, climb like a Mt-goat and ride like a Cadillac, i would put 18.4-26's, loaded up with fluid. Then theres no need for chains, this is one thing i liked, a skidder is so smooth an fast with out chains.
tf87 this is all easily said , but it takes $$. I would run what i have an have my ears an eyes open for another set of rims an tires [cheap]
If that 4-53 is up to par and serviced properly it should run 15000 hrs. The last 353 i had rebuilt ran 8 straight yrs. This is working 5 an 7 day weeks, 5 to 10 hr days. If i didn't have work for it i rented it out, it didn't make a dime setting in the yard.
tf87 thats a nice looking machine, smiley_thumbsup
i would either get 23.1s or 18.4x26s. I can get rims easily from my friend.
18.4x26s don't have a real high load rating for a skidder that size. You should read the PDF at this site .
http://www.treesearch.fs.fed.us/pubs/23650 (http://www.treesearch.fs.fed.us/pubs/23650)
I don't think that weights much more than a S8 IH. The guy that hauled my C5, couldn't haul my S8 it was to heavy.
I used LS-2 16 ply tires, with 30# of air, you can't run a 10 ply tire, waste of time an money.
yea they are a little small. i would like 23.1s.
L J . What is an S8 skidder .
Bbeins I don't know what the tire sizes relate to I'll just have to go with what is on the skidder , which is 18.4-34 .
I have 2 extra 23.1 x 26 wheels if you need them
Quote from: Tramp Bushler on May 01, 2012, 09:17:37 PM
L J . What is an S8 skidder .
Bbeins I don't know what the tire sizes relate to I'll just have to go with what is on the skidder , which is 18.4-34 .
S8 International, they had a 6 cylinder IH or 3-53 Detroit, 4-53 ?
I had a 1976, adjustable seat, easy ride, rear view mirror, horn, running lights with brake lights, 3-53, 4 speed Funk Power Shift, Rockwell rear ends, 119 Gearmatic winch, 18.4-26, 16 ply tires, loaded. I bought it in 1980, $32,000., ran it 16 yrs., very productive machine, run circles around my C5D Treefarmer.
I did buy a new 1980, S8 with the IH 6 clynder, $79,000. I ran it about 6 weeks and she drop-ed a valve. I could run 30+ gals of fuel a day though it. When they had it in the shop is when i made a deal for the 76 with the Detroit. It was there demo machine, had never been sold, like new.
Ok thanks . I think I saw one back east a long time ago .. I've never seen one in Alaska but there arn't alot of skidders up here . Unfortunatly most of our public land is locked up as collateral on World bank loans so we don't get to log it .
Quote from: Tramp Bushler on May 02, 2012, 06:23:53 AM
Ok thanks . I think I saw one back east a long time ago .. I've never seen one in Alaska but there arn't alot of skidders up here . Unfortunatly most of our public land is locked up as collateral on World bank loans so we don't get to log it .
world bank loans????? explain please
Why else do you think all these parks are locked up tighter than a bulls butt in a blizard . With their own police force . Do you have any idea how rich in resources Alaska is ? But we can't utiluze those resources . Because the federal govt chose to void the statehood contract and not return the land to the state . You don't think they did it because a thousand people a year visitsome park . Some of the land that is locked up doesn't even get 200 people a year visiting it .
With the federal budget as unbalanced as it is don't you think the countries holding that paper want somethinas collateral.
Are you pulling wood yet?
no >:( the mechainic was supposed to have it in 2 days ago. he didnt show up today either >:(
Quote from: treefarmer87 on May 04, 2012, 09:51:44 PM
no >:( the mechainic was supposed to have it in 2 days ago. he didnt show up today either >:(
Time to Do it yourself... Unless he has some really *DanG good reasons i wouldn't let him touch my machine after taking this long
I think one month is WAY TO LONG TO WAIT! But if i'm thinking right, the guy is paying for it. Granted, treefarmer has no way to yard wood, but i think he has put all his eggs in this basket so he is sort of at the sellers mercy! Hope it all turns out Well for him!
I would have had a [ Gochi ] hold on the mechanic days ago 8) Just swapping engines would have took me 2 days.
Talked to him today and he said mon for sure
I sure hope he gets things together for you. TF87 i know one thing you got going for you, thats patience, thats a good thing to have in this business.
he takes a long time, but it gets done right. i wont have to worry about it for a long time.
If you'd ever did a motor swap, you would understand why were getting short with your mechanic.
I hope your strategy pays off, the longer the job takes, its a better job done.
I'm sorry, but i would start getting a bad feeling if a simple job took this long. [ just me tf87 ]
Few years back when I was in college I worked for a guy hand cutting large saw timber trees that were too big for his feller buncher and also limbing the bunches. One day the motor in the buncher tossed a rod through the block way down in a ravine with no way to get the machine out of the bush (imagine 4 feet of snow, steep hills, temps around 20 or 30 below zero, and it was dead in the water). We built a tent around the machine with plastic and had the motor pulled, a rebuildable core motor sourced, rebuilt, reinstalled and running in 4 days time.... That was years ago and the machine has changed hands 3 times and still going strong.....
A simple motor swap like yours out in the open with all the proper tools and such should be an easy weekend job.
it is completely back together. it has 65 lbs oil pressure idling now. all new gaskets and seals.and it sounds good too
tf87 thats to high of oil pressure at idle, even if motors cold. I would change the gauge, or check it with another on motor.
That high oil pressure would scare me, something is wrong.
A hot Detroit should idle at 20 lbs, full throttle 50-55 lbs
besides the gauge what could be the cause of that high of pressure
I'm not an engine rebuilder, if its not the gauge. I would do some calling around first thing in the morning and see what Detroit says about it, its probably something real simple.
I guise it makes a difference where its hooked into the motor.
On a cummins motor in a truck i had, i beleive there was a spring in the boil pump that could be streched out to give it more pressure? I would get a gauge and check it right off the block. HOPEFULLY its just the gauge!
hopefully its the gauge and not oil gallies blocked cusing it to read high. or a bearing not lined up correctly causing it.
I hope so
Could be a bearing not lined up, bearing tolerance too tight, or possible oil pump clearances too tight.
If I was you I would find a new qualified mechanic and have him fix it correctly and send the bill to the guy working on it right now.
tf87 pull the oil filter off, take a good look at, make sure theres nothing stuck in the holes. change the filter
If that has a spin on filer and the oil pressure that high, it should have blew it off.
I agree with Tahoe get rid of this "Mechanic" this guy has cost you a month of work. Sit down and caculate how much money you have lost in sales. A qualified mechanic can make you money by doing a proper job and done in a timely manner. Spend the extra money to get it done right this will pay off. We are in a business were you need to be working every good day you can.
What really upsets me about this whole deal, i knew that motor had an oil pressure issue when they bench ran it. I thought it had been resolved, evidently somebody don't have a clue what there doing.
TF87 i really feel for you, but we have to set our feelings aside. Nows the time to grab the BULL BY THE HORNS, enough is enough, this skidder has to be fixed in days not weeks or months. I would be in the sellers face, i got a feeling hes treating you like sum kid fooling around with a skidder, will its just about court time, i would straight tell him to FIX IT. You figure all your down time, the stress on you, and ect smiley_deadheader alligator
I feel for you TR one thing ive learned over the years figure out stuff yourself then your only *pithed at yourself when things goes south :D. I hired my detroit to be rebuilt [ 4/53 ] but now I sometimes wish I would of had another to tear down and try to see how tuff they reaily are to rebuild. Iam lucky enough to be in a place in my life where I don't have to hit it every day but still remember how stressful it can be when your down and having to rely on someone else. Ive learned theres only two people I can rely on myself and my wife ;) Hope things come togather for you soon, Bill
everythings back to normal. skidder did great 8) oil pressure at full throttle is 60 lbs now (idling 35) . thats alot better, guess the gauge was wrong. temp gauge was 180-190. got a load of pulpwood on the truck now for in the morning. i would have done more today, but the wife wanted to cut hay, so i showed her what to do. going early tomm. morning to push out a new deck with the dozer :)
Sounds great! I think that the 453t is a great motor...the best of the Detroit 53s. I am jealous that you are cutting hay already I will run out of hay in 2 more days and my pastures should be just ready for my cows...I hope!
i plan on cutting 3 times this year. i usually cut once a year, and always have hay left over :), but we only have 25-35 cows. we got a new jd 5300 series :o 8). it is nice.
Glad to hear you got it running.
Only 25-35 cows huh...that's a bunch! What are you cutting hay with?
A 5300 series jd and a 916 jd moco disc bine
I use a MF 399 pulling an old kuhn fc 300. Is it flat where you live? It is kind of hilly here so you need about 80-100hp to pull a 10 foot geared disk at 5-6mph. You could get by with 70hp with a shaft drive disc like a 5209 new idea. I have about 50 head but we feed hay about 6 months a year.
Thank your lucky stars it was the gauge, finely something going right.
I never owned a cow, just a full time logger. I don't know where i would have found time to take care of cattle.
We need pics !!!! .
Your Loggin Now .
Pics Pics Pics . We need pics .
Pics Pics Pics . We need pics .
What in the world is a disk for mowing hay . We always used a siclebar mower .
Skidder pics ! Ya ya ya :D :D 8)
I use a JD7210 pulling a JD946, flat out cuts hay.
Sounds like you keep darn busy over there!
tramp bushler it is just like a regular sickle bar hay cutter except it has 4 round discs with two 3 in steel blades on each one. It cuts almost flat on the ground like a finish mower. I got started late today. had to fix fences. I will try get some pics tomm. I made a nice deck today and have a load of sawlogs on the truck