Hi there I am new to the forum and looking for some advice.
I recently bought a timberjack 230d and am having trouble
finding a local source for parts (I am in British Columbia)
I am looking for a Canadian source for parts. Anyone out there
know were to get a brake master cylinder, line lock, slave cylinder,
brake shoes? Are any of these parts common? Thanks for any help,
MD
Welcome to the Forum, i used to get these parts form a local Auto parts store.
When I go to my auto parts store and tell them I am looking for parts for a timberjack they look at me like I am a nut job. If the parts are the same as a certain make and model of truck then I can go to the auto parts store, otherwise I am S.O.L. Any brake parts for the 230d that are common to other vehicles? So far
I have a price for $200 fo a master cylinder!
I don't know where you can source Timberjack parts on the west coast but here on the east coast the best place has to be Timberparts in New Brunswick.They have all you need in stock,be ware though a master cylinder is very pricey.Google Timberjack parts for Canada and you may find something closer to you,good luck.
Treefarmer parts must be more common, Napa had about everything i needed or could get it.
I'd take the part number in, they'd cross reference the number.
Like my hyd filter on my S8, IH wanted $70. , Napa crossed numbers over to Wix, here it was the same filter Mack truck used.
Bushmechanic; thanks for the info on Timberparts. I will call them monday or are they open satudays?
Lumberjack48; my local auto parts store has all of my filter needs covered but that is were there help ends
Has anyone rebuilt the lever lock (park brake)? It looks like just two o rings and it is good?
I am still waiting for my used manuals to arrive in the mail.
After some farting around on the skidder this afternoon I am thinking the master cylinder may be good!
Mobile demensia your Napa store has a lot more than you think.For example if you go in and ask for a u-joint for a Timberjack 230D they will look at you like you have ten heads,but ask for a 160 u-joint and they'll hand it over the counter.As lumberjack48 said if you have the part numbers then sometimes they can cross reference it,but in most cases now if you don't know what to ask for your screwed.Nowadays the good partsmen are like dinosaurs and if it's not in a computer then it's not availible,but there may be ten sitting on the shelf.
As for the lock lever I'm pretty sure your right about the o-rings,just make sure the bore is smooth or the new o-rings won't work.I think Timberparts are open on saturday mornings,don't forget about the time difference.
thanks again bush mechanic you are right 100%. I have already started a list of part #'s so I can go into NAPA and not have to look at a pair of vacant eyes! If only there was a list already made......
I got my parts from a parts store because parts cost about 50% of what Treefarmer sales an International Harvester wanted for the same part.
Off hand i can't think of one part that i couldn't get from the parts store. They even carried mainline an chockers. [ this was 20 yrs ago ]
The guy i dealt with at the parts store was about 60 years old. When i asked for a part, he knew off the top of his head what i wanted. Back then they catered to loggers, truckers an farmers.
Lumberjack48; I wish it was the same over here. l go into the parts store and I have to talk to some pimple faced 16 year old who thinks the only internal combustion engine comes in a honda civic.
Beware the transfer case grease seal on the TJ brakes. If the shaft to the brake drum leaks, the shoes get soaked with 80-90 wt and hold less than Obama without a teleprompter. Even if your mastercylinder and line lock are good, the brakes won't hold. If the pedal gets hard and stays hard, you can rule out a hydraulic problem.
Aftermarket Parts, Inc (google it) has everthing for TJ's and others and will give you to thier closest distributor. Thier parts are reasonable and good quality.
make sure the shaft isn't wore right where the seal rides on it if it is it'll leak oil on pads n all the brake stompn in the world wont do any good another good thought set up a secondary parking brake possably from an old truck or somthing it'll help a lot n be much safer
Thanks for the info. I am planning to do the t case seal and put on new shoes. I have the winch out at the moment so access should be better!
About the operation of the line lock, which position for on forward or back?
Thanks for all the good info everyone . And the Aftermarket Parts heads up . I googled them and looked around at their parts a bunch . Then I book marked their site . . Thanks again .
Forward should be lock.
thanks for all the help folks!
Make sure you put some silicone on the splines as this is where many people go wrong and don't realize that the oil can seep out through the shaft splines and ruin a great brake job.
Good one bushmechanic, I had not thought of that. If I had to guess I'd say you have worked on a few of these machines!
Hello there, I have been reading alot of post's through the past month and have received a wealth of infromation on my 230D skidder. Thank you to all for sharing your wisdom. There is alot of history and knowledgeable folks on here. I figured I would contribute something a skidder mechanic shared with me. He used to work for Lyon's in Brookville,Pa and since they went out of business he started his own shop.
I also had to completly rebuild my brake drum assembly on my skidder. I also had to install a new idle shaft the drum bolts to. I pulled the assembly off of the transfer case in one piece. Shaft,bearing retainer housing, and brake backing plate. I put everything in a box and took it to the shop. The guy had to press the new bearing on for me but also told me about the problem with the seal going bad and leaking gear oil all over brakes. I'm going to try and explain this as best as possible. Bear with me. Once you have the idle shaft out and the brake backing plate off, all you are left with is bearing retainer housing. Place the housing on a bench in the proper position you would bolt it back onto the transfer case. If you look inside the housing in the 6:00 position there is a deep area where the gear oil will pool. The mechanic took a sharpie and made a mark (this is where it is going to be tough to explain) on the outter part of the casing but it is the part that goes inside the transfer case. He told me to drill a 1/4 inch or slightly bigger hole in a diagonal direction up through the casing into that pooling area so the gear oil does not build up there but will drain back into the transfer case allowing less risk of oil leaking onto the brakes. I started with a small bit and worked my way up in size. I should have taken a picture but was caught up in the moment of getting everything back together. The mechanic told me that all the loggers he told to do this is expierencing much longer brake life. Please don't think I'm a nut trying to explain this. I was willing to try anything after reading alot of stories in reguards to these Timberjack brakes. I hope this made some kind of sense.
I understood your explanation fully and will take a look at that this weekend. Lots of great tricks just a few clicks away. This is a great forum with a wealth of knowledge.
Perfect explanition for me rvolek I think that's a great idea as long as that pooled up oil dosen't feed a bearing.Thanks for the tip and I will be checking it out the next time I have to do a New Process transfer case.