I had taken my Rancher 55 to the deal after I had gotten it just for a quick look over, the saw is like new, they put a Tach on it and it rev'd out to around 11,600 RPM if I remember right is this correct?
What should the 450 spin to?
009?
Thanks
55- 12,500
450- 12,500
09- 10,500
If it is turning 11,600 How do you raise it ? Is 11,600 Ok?
I aways stay on the rich side. 4 stroking out of cut and clears up in the cut.
Quote from: JOE.G on June 08, 2012, 07:42:53 AM
If it is turning 11,600 How do you raise it ? Is 11,600 Ok?
On the 450 and 55 11,600 is pretty rich. I usually set mine a little low ex: 12,200-12,300. To increase rpm's turn H screw clockwise which leans it out. Too far and it's cooked piston.
Shep
Many people get somewhat anal about RPM's which means little of nothing .As long as that machine is slightly 4 stroking out of the cut then smooths out in the cut it's good to go no matter what RPM's it runs .
Set it ,run it ,read the plug .If it's a nice light tan color it's good to go .Black it's rich and white it's lean .If your going to err,err on the rich side .
Say I could tune one of my Stihls for 13-14 thou here in Ohio at elevation 876 feet .Haul that thing to the Colorado mountains ,retune and might be lucky to get 9-10 thou out of it .
When i ran Husky i had to tune carb off-in-on all day to keep performance where i wanted it. If a cloud went over it needed to be tweaked. I had the little screwdriver with the retractable chain. This is one problem i didn't have with Stihl.
I had or rather still have a Mac Pm 610 that would drift as the day warmed up .Not much just enough to annoy you .I just carried a little tweeker in my pocket
Are those RPM guages that you hold near the motor accurate or do you guys have some thing that hooks to the motor?
All the saw shops use-em, i set my saws by ear.
I am not an expert in this field, but if you check out madsens website you find there what a properly and improperly tuned saw should sound like. I found it very helpful.
A tachometer would be a handy tool just for reference sake if nothing else .Quite frankly though most folks that race the things set them by ear .
Once you modify the porting scheme on a stock engine those factory specs no longer apply .Nor for that matter if you account for elevation temperature etc .
I just got my Tach, What should the idle be for these saws? I think I saw 2,500 For the Rancher.
The 450 and 55 idled at about 2,800 Rpm, the 450 holds pretty steady at 12,500 RPM and the 55 was at 11,600 RPM I turned it up to about 12,300 RPM, IS that pretty good or should I turn the 55 up a touch?
The 009 Doesn't stay steady it goes from about 10,500 RPM to 11,500 RPM and Idles at about 3,200 RPM. I only see two screws on the 009 and they are not marked I don't know which is which.
Check out Madden's website, there is an area about tuning by ear. It lets you hear a lean, rich, and correctly tuned saw sounds like. If any of your saws are "screaming" they're too lean and risk burning up. In some time here I'd be happy to run down and help you out Joe, may be a little tough around my schedule but I will try. I may make the free beer a regret though, been known to do that. :D
http://www.madsens1.com/mnu_sawmaint.htm
Check here.
I set the idle just below chain engagement speed once the saw is warm. Hi speed as Al and others have said, it can be touchy on the new saws with rev limiters until you get used to it. On a side note, the 009 is a reed valve saw, it won`t rev like the others but is quite gutsy. Too bad emissions killed it.
Do you guys know what screw is what on the 009? Plug does look a little white, ANd it seems to rev out between 10,500 and 11,500 sometimes getting almost to 12,000. I don't want to blow this saw up I like it a lot.
Quote from: lumberjack48 on June 08, 2012, 12:22:55 PM
When i ran Husky i had to tune carb off-in-on all day to keep performance where i wanted it. If a cloud went over it needed to be tweaked. I had the little screwdriver with the retractable chain. This is one problem i didn't have with Stihl.
I've never had that problem on the Huskies I've run. They did have a bulletin out about replacing the carb on a model or two. I think it mainly affected how they idled, if I recall.
Well After doing some research it appears my 009 is a Fixed jet Carb Model, I guess the only way to change it is to Install a new carb or change the jets. IS it ok for it to be running any where from 500 to 1,000 Rpm over the 10,500 Number?
The plug color and the high RPM does make me wonder if you've got an air leak somewhere. Sounds as though it could be running a bit lean.
I have heard air leaks will cause the saw to rev or bog when the saw is turned on it side and what notm the saw just change no matter how I turn the saw, I don't think this is a very accurate method.
Not all air leaks will do that. It depends on where they are. A bad fuel line can cause the symptoms you describe, for example, as the leak in the line is submerged or open to the air depending on position of the saw.
It may be in more depth then what you can explain here but Is there a article telling me how to check for this kind of stuff and what tools I would need?
I was told 12,500 On the 450 As Max RPM, I Just want to make sure it's right, Baileys Catolog says 9,600 but online it says 13,000. So confused
I found this though google, What is right.
Per here 9,600 http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/450/#specifications
13,000 Here http://www.shopping.com/Husqvarna-Husqvarna-Forest-Garden-966906738-450-18-Gas-Chain-Saw/info
9,600 Here http://www.madontools.com/chainsaws/husqvarna-chainsaw-review/husqvarna-450-chainsaw/
13,000 Here http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=HVF%20450%2020
You're confusing maximum RPM with peak HP RPM..
The peak HP RPM is at 9600 which means at 9600 is where it's power band tops out - any higher and you're using speed as an interial damper.
It's max ROTATING RPM is 13,000 - bad things can potentially happen above that.
Got it, They should post both numbers.
The manuals usually have everything - idle, high RPM, peak HP RPM, bore, stroke, fluid capacities (if you care), weights.... atleast for Stihl anyway. I presume Husky and the others do it too.
The only thing I see is the idle RPM in the Manuals.
Heres how i set my saw, hold throttle wide open, turn the high jet in until it starts to dump, then turn it back until its screaming. The reason i set it this way is i wanted full throttle response for limbing and it would still run at its power band when bucking big wood. Just because its set at peak rpm you don't hold it there, a guy has to know his saw to get the best out of it.