I am thinking about acquiring an arborist saw such as the Stihl 019T, 191T, 020T or MS200T. I think I can pick up a used 0 series for around $175. The newer 191T and MS200T appear to great lightweight units but the prices are more than I am willing to pay for an occasional use saw.
The reason for getting one is not that I want to swing around in tree tops but I want a lightweight saw that I can carry around in the woods for TSI work and building wildlife structures. My 038 and MS440 are just too heavy to lug around all day unless I am falling and bucking trees.
What do you all think of the Stihl arborist saws? Kevin I remember you mentioning an Echo or Poulon that a lot of arborist use. Comments? Chet what do you use?
Thanks in advance for the great advice I know will be forthcoming.
There are plenty of arborists on here now so you should get a few replies.
I use the Husqvarna 335 and would probably buy the 338 next time around because of the fuel primer.
The problem with arborist saws is the price of them.
The chainsaw manufacturers put higher price tags on them for no other reason than they are primarily bought by arborists.
The 200T Stihl is also popular.
Echo is probably a good one to consider from the reports I've read...and the price tag.
Kevin,
When you are up in the air and trying to start the saw, I'll bet the fuel primer is worth the extra cost of the saw. ;D
Years ago by far the Stihl 020S was the best arborist saw. The mechanical advantages far outweighed any competitors.
Than Stihl increased the cost of the 020 reaching nearly $900
About this time I began testing other saws for reliability, cost and performance. The winner was the Echo 3400 series. The past few years many manufacturers have been improvising performance in order to comply with emmission requirements.
Key component to purchasing any saw is service availability, keep this in mind when you look at the newer - brands.
Tanaka built an excellent saw comparable to the Echo. But the parts and service availability was not there.
When the muffler screen was plugged on my 335 it was very easy to start.
Once I cleaned it up and put a new plug in it, it went back to it's old difficult cold starting. :-/
Once it's warm and running it's fine.
I remember buying an Echo CS-3000 for about $200 once, for what you want to use it for and want to pay for it, I think this would be a very nice saw to buy. The only thing I could really complain about on that saw was the Oregon intenz bar kept sliding back letting the chain get loose real fast, and the thing only has ONE piston ring instead of two like the Stihls have, BTW all echo saws up to the Cs345 are the same way with rings. I was only 7.5 pounds or so and 1.83 CID but it had a good deal of power for the engine size, also very reliable starting and all that good stuff. Overall I would give the CS300 or maybe a CS340 or 345 a look, they get about an 8.5 on a scale of 1-10 from me.
Quote...... and the thing only has ONE piston ring instead of two like the Stihls have.....
Yeah? So tell me exactly how that affected you negatively? There are Stihls with one ring also, a good example is the 019T, I won`t get near enough to a 191 to find out if they are the same.
Russ
Well, two piston rings usually means more compression and higher HP. My old Mac 110 that the CS3000 replaced had 2 rings and was a fierce competitor with many newer saws in its class. I would like to see more new models woth 2 rings rather than one simply for more power with less weight.
The difference between 1 and 2 ring pistons is rather moot nowadays. Even if it was a slight issue, I would not let that keep me from buying a saw that otherwise fit the bill.
QuoteWell, two piston rings usually means more compression and higher HP. My old Mac 110 that the CS3000 replaced had 2 rings and was a fierce competitor with many newer saws in its class. I would like to see more new models woth 2 rings rather than one simply for more power with less weight.
Sorry oldsaw, but the facts refute your beliefs. Your analysis of the differences between your "old Mac 110" and the CS3000 is too simplistic and consequently lacks merit in my opinion. You also couldn`t have made a more apples to oranges comparison if you`d tried. Furthermore, higher compression alone does not guarantee higher power.
Don`t take my comments harshly because that isn`t my intention, and I also recognize that you have probably bought into the Stihl "two ring superiority" rhetoric while Stihl was quietly slipping it to the consumer with less than cutting edge engineering and single rings in their cheaper saws and they have tried singles in a few other models as well. An honest, old time Stihl mechanic can tell you this. Just don`t believe everything that you hear or read. Look at the history of the different designs and you will find stars and slugs in both single and double ring engines.
Russ
Well OneWithWood, I'm not sure you'd think what I climb with as an arborist saw. For quite some time now I have been using 61 Husky's, a little on the heavy side for the treetops but ya get use to it. ;D
One job I had a few years back, it seemed that every saw I touched that day broke down. At noon the only saw left running was my old 2100 Husky with a 32" bar. I finished the day with that old girl, but it 'bout killed me. I can safely say that you can rule out the 2100 Husky as an arboist saw. ;D
I sure dont call a 6 cubic inch saw a climbing saw by any means. I'll take my good old Power Mac 310 up the tree over a 2100 anyday simply because it makes more sense and weighs much less than the 2100. that big thing is great on the ground but never a useful machine to me in the tree like a PM310 is. the 2100 is more of a severe duty felling/ daily milling use type saw in my book. Now if I could just remember where I put that book of definitons for saws....
When the job needs to be finished you use what you've got
Chet,
That's why I will never arm wrestle you!
Maybe I should lift some weights, quit being a weenie and just lug the 440 up and down the ravines. :D
I can always say to myself ' If that old man Chet can climb trees with his 61 I can surely carry around this thing' :D :D ;D
Thanks for the reply. :)
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Chet, sounds like a natural arborist.
An arborist saw is: whatever saw will perform the task at hand with the least effort or the most power.
Often the weight is held momentarily during the cut. The rest of the time the saw remains tied to a lowering line. (Not like carrying it throught the brush up steep ravines for 10 hour days).
Fact is I have had to use my Stihl 075 with a 5 foot bar before.
I got a used 020AV Stihl from an arborsit one time...needed a carb rebuild. I still keep it and use it frequently when limbing...I've never seen a saw its size cut SO FAST.
I keep the wife away from it, however. It has no chain brake. I make her run a MS360. ;)
Captain.
saw that is best for you is what is comfortable to you and what you are famialiar with? close second is what does the dealer in you area support and service. personally i prefer husky hands down bar none. but if i need parts here in central fl i better be ready for a long drive or willing to wait awhile . warranty on husky here is excellent but dealers are nonexistent in my area due to big chain stores there prices are way cheap but try telling some guy fresh out of high school about your saw problems sheesh some of the strange things my saws do confuse anyone lol dealer support really does matter price is nice but a saw that wont run is wortless to me and have 2 very new saws in my spare parts pile wanna talk about aggravating lol
QuoteOften the weight is held momentarily during the cut. The rest of the time the saw remains tied to a lowering line. (Not like carrying it throught the brush up steep ravines for 10 hour days).
I'm not a big fan of having an extra rope in the tree to work around, just to have it to hold the saw. I'll will sometimes tie off the saw if I won't be needing it for a while, but otherwise I keep it straped to my belt.
QuoteChet,
That's why I will never arm wrestle you!
Maybe I should lift some weights, quit being a weenie and just lug the 440 up and down the ravines. :D
I can always say to myself ' If that old man Chet can climb trees with his 61 I can surely carry around this thing' :D :D ;D
Thanks for the reply. :)
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
OneWithWood, I got news fur ya dar buddy. If I'm old you got problems too. :o We are both half way to dat hundred candle birthday cake. 'Spose we better include Keven, he's in da same club too. :D :D
I've been following a couple Stihl 020s and 019s on e-bay. They must be good saws because they quickly zoomed past my budget! I'll lower my standards and start following the less expensive units.
Chet,
Fine wine comes to mind. . . ;D
I tink Chet was tinkin 50 year old blue beer. Not da same. :D
heck for years i used an homelite super xl in trees the went to n 028 stihl.. at the time i never thot about having specific purpose saws. just used my saw for everything. now im exstreme the other way got 8 last count. :)
Been there with da SXLAO Homelite. My day job company used them for years. Dem saws where definitely vertical challenged, get one off da ground and ya couldn't start it ta save yur sole. :'( But I will admit, dey were tough, you could drop one repeatedly from 30 plus feet and they would hold together. ;D
QuoteWhen the muffler screen was plugged on my 335 it was very easy to start.
Once I cleaned it up and put a new plug in it, it went back to it's old difficult cold starting. :-/
Once it's warm and running it's fine.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Husky has always been known for:
High performance,
Hard to start
Hard to start? Husky? not mine, it starts in 5-8 pulls and the chips start flying. but of course my 330 starts in a max of 5 pulls from cold start.
I don't mind a saw that's hard to start on the ground with five pulls.
When I'm hanging on a rope I prefer one or two pulls.
Sorry to be tuning in on this thread a bit late. I recently bought an Echo CS300, which replaced the CS3000. It is a really sweet little saw. I believe it has 2 piston rings, for what that's worth. I have had no trouble with the bar slipping, and the side adjustment screw is handy. The little rascal starts on 2-3 pulls, cold, and has bunches of power for such a small, light saw.
The really nice thing was the price. $199.50, at the dealer, not a discount store. Echo has been running a nationwide promo, but I'm not sure if it's still on.
This saw was built with the arborist in mind, complete with a ring to hang it from. You really should check it out, if there is a good dealer nearby. :)
Hi Dan,
Yes, the Echo's are nice little climbing saws. I had a cs3000 once but went to the cs3400 shortly afterwards. A lot more power but otherwise it looks identical to the 3000. The 3000/ 300 series have been $199 for as long as I can remember, although they might be getting ready to bump it up. The 340 has gone from $249 to the $279-$299 range in the last year so I assume it's little brother will follow along.
I always remove the ring and use a 8" strap on the rear handle to hang the saw on my saddle. Years ago those rings had a reputation for breaking off. :)
We use the 019...I also have a Shindawa (sp) that works good when for climbing.
I personally highly reccommend the STIHL saws for climbing...I like the Shindawa(sp) but if it hangs to long while in the tree its a BEAR to start
I looked at a Shindaiwa 357 I think it was, it is a little top handle saw built for a 6year old boy to play with.I found the handle setup on the front handle to be VERY small, too small in fact for me to be able to hold it and my hand is a small size. I liked my Echo CS3000 that I had, I'd like to try out an MS200 sometime soon too.
I have been using a 338xpt and it does ok.
If in a bucket I like my 540 dolmar.
I try to stay as light as possible.
Been thinking of getting a Hydraulic saw for the bucket work.
Hunter
well im gonna thow in the echo 3400 for consideration..
but really for the job u described .,,i would use my 026.
there plenty of good saw in that class to choose from. ..
big enuff to do most jobs and lite also.. other saws for that application. husk in the 40-50 cc class.several out there.
025 stihl. efco 40-50 cc saws rank with any in my opinion.
echo makes a good saws in the 40-50 cc range.
there a real smorgus board of saws to choose from.
unless u get a lemon u probably like any ofum.
ps if im gonna be on the groiund. i prefer an rear handled saw.
Update:
I have not been on the forum of late because I have been busting my butt during the daylight hours felling, skidding, bucking and sawing trees in preparation for actually building the saw barn. I was just too dern tired to fireup the computer when I came in at dusk. Barely could stay awake long enough to eat . . .
I did find a moment to bid on a few saws on e-bay. I have a Stihl 019 on its way to me. I will report back on how I like it.
Well I promised I would report back. I know some of you guys have been laying awake at night wondering how it was going :D :D :D :D
This little saw is great! I wish I had gotten one a long time ago. I take it with me even when I am felling the big stuff. It is much easier and safer to use it on the brush when clearing around a tree to be felled and it makes short work of cleaning up the saplings that get nailed when the big boy drops.
Yep, I am a happy camper 8)
Also very handy around the mill for those quick cuts.