I am using a Woodmizer LT40HD and I am finding that the blade bows as I am sawing a poplar tree. I have checked the blade tension among other things and I am finding that it dives up and down and leaves a jagged cut.
What is happening? How can I fix this problem?
rsangster
850-274-4555
Please call me if you have any advice that may help. Thanks rsangster 850-274-4555
Dull blade being pushed into the wood to hard..Try a known good blade.
Popular should be the easiest of woods to saw.
I have a LT40 HD also. put on a brand new blade, psi should be around 2800 and you should be making a smooth straight cut. smiley_thumbsup
Poplar butt logs can often do that, stress in grain will make the blade ride up or down. Make sure you have a sharp blade, enter the log slowly and cut the log slower then you would normaly saw. Poplar I find is one of those that you could saw up a trailer load and all is good, then you could get half a dozen that really don't want to become good lookin' lumber . ::) ;) ( I also have an lt40hd)
Hello,
Engine Drive belt tension? Dry or green logs? Just about any blade should cut Poplar. use less water or no water in green logs. Blade tension and alighment or engine speed. Some things to check.
Marty
Welcome to the Forum, Rsangster! We also have an older model LT-40HD (just got it) and are trying to get it all tuned up. I'm working on some of the same issues. We replaced the fuel pump today, and hope to work on some other things Monday.
Marty, you're about to turn 1,000 posts! 8)
Do you service South Carolina, or someone else?
Quote from: Okrafarmer on September 16, 2012, 12:54:15 AM
We replaced the fuel pump today, and hope to work on some other things Monday.
Okra, is that an electric fuel pump or the mechanical type mounted on the crankcase? Save the old one. The electric ones are repairable.
Hello,
Joe Whitley is in NC he covers that area.
I thought 1000 was a high # until I saw you are over 2500 and others are 10,000. I must be new to this game. Never even noticed the #. ?
Thanks for pointing it out.
Marty
Quote from: pineywoods on September 16, 2012, 03:36:22 PM
Quote from: Okrafarmer on September 16, 2012, 12:54:15 AM
We replaced the fuel pump today, and hope to work on some other things Monday.
Okra, is that an electric fuel pump or the mechanical type mounted on the crankcase? Save the old one. The electric ones are repairable.
I'll make sure they keep the old one. It is the mechanical one, and they replaced it with a shelf-model electric one. It seemed to be running good late yesterday, but we'll try it out again tomorrow. The end of the muffler blew off, so they will see if they can weld a plate on to replace it. They thought they could detect the sound of valves not working quite right, but we will check that out after they fix the muffler, since that affects the sound. :)
What kind of poplar? Tulip saws great, but the other true poplars tend to give me fits if things are just right. As mentioned, good band, proper drive belt tension, and guide roller alignment.
That was pretty boards Rod. Im glad you got right on them.
You got me back on here. It as been a long time...
Hi Rod, and welcome to the forum. I've been watching your progress on ol' Billbob's FB and wondering when he would point you in this direction. :D Bill, glad to see you didn't forget where we are! Welcome back. :)
ps: those were some pretty poplar boards. You should put the pics on here. ;)
I talked to Rod the other night on the phone. He sounds like a super guy and a harder worker.
I've certainly seen this problem over the years.
I in no way attribute your problem to the wood you are cutting if it is poplar (green or dry) having cut hundreds of thousands of board feet of this wood.
If your blade dives up and down in the cut this describes a wavy cut. This could be caused by several items. If a new (out of the box blade) doesn't cut, one or more of the following could be the problem:
1. Blade guides not proper adjusted...this is very important. Sometimes a blade guide will come loose. Be sure this hasn't happened to you.
2. Blade guides are no longer round causing the blade to rise and fall in the cut (this one can be hard to identify at first). If you're cutting oak you will definitely be creating an ocean of waves if this is your only problem.
3. The B57 belts are worn out...change them
If you don't have a new blade, make sure that you have the proper set for the specie of wood you are cutting and be sure that the blade is sharp. Insufficient (to little) hook angle can cause a blade to dive. It may cut a board or two "properly", but then it will begin to dive immediately after entering the cut (if the blade can even enter the cut).
Aaron,
LT40HDD Super Hydraulic Owner, Million Bdft Club member
Thank you guys for all the help. The blades that I was installing looked new but in fact were not. I dug down to the bottom of the box of blades that I have and found some sure nuff brand new ones and that thing cut so good after that. I will try to post pics.
Glad you got it worked out Rod.
Trying to post pics but it won't except jpg? Seems like that would be all it excepts.
Try this for your picture posting.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56957.0.html
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30302/IMAG0247.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30302/IMAG0248.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30302/IMAG0249.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30302/IMAG0255.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30302/IMAG0256.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30302/IMAG0261.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30302/poplar.jpg)
It looks like you got that picture posting thing all figured out.....
Jim Rogers
That's some nice figured wood!
Great pictures Rod! Have a good day. smiley_thumbsup
Good blade and good pictures. You are certainly on a roll now. 8)