I recently purchased this vintage mail/paper sorting cabinet for my office. I have removed the door and plan to mount it on the wall at eye level.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/paper_sorter.jpg)
The problem is how to mount it to the wall? Here is where i plan to mount it. The vertical tape represents the studs in the wall(actual 2" rough doug fir). They are on 16 inch centers. The horizontal tape represents the width of the cabinet (21.5 inches). As you can see, the cabinet would only cover one stud. The cabinet weighs 70lbs. I considered a french cleat, but that would make it stick out from the wall a bit. Any good ideas?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/IMG_0561.JPG)
Should I just mount it to the one stud? What type of hardware?
Since it only covers 1 stud, have you considered building a nice decorative shelf that covers 2 studs and then set your antique on the shelf?
Building a shelf and staining it to match your piece IMO would look really great.
A shelf would probably be best, as with any bracket you would be drilling into the cabinetry to mount it.
Something like a slip past bed rail fastener would have to be screwed to the side. The wall bracket would be screwed length wise with the stud. Most other ideas I see would straddle the stud with screw holes on other side of it.
I think I would put a angle shelf bracket upside down (and screwed to the stud) to catch and support the weight at the bottom of the cabinet, and then put a screw at the top of the cabinet into the stud to hold the top.
This all dependent on the construction of the cabinet itself. And maybe if you can center the cabinet on the stud.
You might be able to use flush mount hangers top and bottom on the single stud, depending on the weight rating.
That's what I used to hang the Flag Case/Shadow Box I posted here, although they were placed on 5/8" Pine paneling. The flush mount look is what I was seeking.
There are lots of brands/types of flush mount hangers. Rockler, Woodcraft, Lee Valley and even Home Depot carries them.
BTW, that cabinet is a really neat piece of history. I love it.
I would find/build another cabinet-type base for it to sit on. I'd go for something wider, so you can center it up.
If a hardwood french cleat is too thick could you use aluminum down to 1/4" thick, countersunk screw heads? if you don't want to open up the drywall to put in some kind of horizontal backer, you could use two of those screws with expanding wings one on either end of the cleat, behind the drywall. I would think if the limit is 70 pounds that wouldn't be too heavy esp. if the cabinet is pretty much centered on the one stud.
Use some sheet metal and bend a offset like a Z and make the stud mounted plate in shape of triangle with mounting holes verticle. Then make horizontal mounting plate fastened to back of cabinet, you will have a little bit of slide adjustment side to side. If there is too much of gap in back of cabinet to wall, you could tack a small piece of filler trim around back or side of cabinet.
I would second the table. Not much wider but deeper front to back. That would give a sorting/reading area.
It would depend on the construction of the cabinet. Is it solid wood? If so what species? Plywood? If so how thick? I would probably just predrill and use two small lag bolts through the back of the cabinet into the stud. If the construction is stout enough. Good call on removing the cheesey door.
x2 on the french cleat. Maybe two.
How about some short dark feet that would let it rest on the radio and not be too conspicuous?
Seventy pounds is kind of heavy for wall mounting. How about a standing desk wide enough to straddle the radio. Inch and a half long legs coming up to a chest high desk with a shelf or two deep enough support the file rack. A slanted lid that folds out to a flat desk would not have to be that deep to be useful. 8)
Lud, I haven't done anything yet. Can you post a napkin sketch so I can be sure I understand what you are envisioning?
Thanks, Brad
I don't capiche " napkin sketch" ( tho I have drawn a bit in bars!) :D
Quote from: Lud on October 13, 2012, 03:59:43 PM
... tho I have drawn a bit in bars!...
Well, I was drawn into bars quite a bit early on during my time in the Navy, but that's a whole 'nother story. :o
Herb
Just a quick hand sketch, nothing fancy, no sketch up or 3D cad.
...........and take a pic of the drawing and post that? OK. I can do that. I thought you were naming some 'puteree stuff. ;D
Hey Brad, here's your napkin sketch. Sorry it took so long.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12867/Oct2012003.JPG)
Hope you can see how the standing desk straddles the radio and supports the file box. Flipping out the slanted lid would give you a writing surface...possibly covered with hard leather and could have some cubbies like a roll-top for pens, etc.
Good luck!
Use 4" by 2" L-brackets. Cut into the wall enough for them to be screwed into the studs flush with the wall. One on top and one on bottom. Drill extra holes into the l-brackets for needed additional support screws.
Both brackets will support the weight of the cabinet, it will be flush with the wall and should support an additional 70lbs weight.
Use 4" by 4" brackets for additional strength. Judging by the height you will be hanging it at, the brackets should be hidden. Use 3" dry wall screws and you should be able to Dance on it with NO worries. From the looks of the top and bottom board thickness, a couple of 3/4" screws will hold it firmly to the wall. Go half inch is the boards are thinner and you should get the same support.
So , ....Learner...... You have some good ideas. Top. bottom, etc., get back to the stud.........all good.
The problem is the case of Brad's file box may well sag if hung, as per your suggestion, without complete bottom support. Antiques can fall apart if you look at them wrong. What I was suggesting lets Brad incorporate his find into a usable piece of furniture that just happens to be able to span an old radio .
Your ideas, maybe with some bigger angles supporting a full shelf under the whole works could be a viable option . Just L brackets, I'll pass. More and more , I'm noticing how much TIME goes by and how it affects some previously thought GREAT Ideas.......usually to the negative.
Put stuff together so it looks good and will stand the TEST of TIME....... ;)
Good point Lud. I wasn't thinking about sag just the main support. Maybe I mis-understood but judging by the vertical blue tape and the size of the cabinet, it can be mounted using both wall studs.
That should spread the load enough to prevent sag. But simply moving the radio a bit and supporting the cabinet with it is a better option.
It's all in Brad's lap now. He started the thread; asked for advice; got plenty of it; Maybe he'll let us know what he chose to do................... ??? ???
Finally getting back to my hobbies on November 7th... been really tied up lately, but I won't mention with what because if I even breath a word related, however non-specific, this thread will get deleted.
Lud, I understand your idea now. I had been confused by the slanted part, but I see now. I would like to go this route. I have some black walnut I could use, but it's going to have to wait until a few other projects get done. Maybe I should just screw some pine 2x material together as a mock up to use and try out how I like it until I have to time to make a furniture quality one? Yes a quick mock up would kill two birds, to make sure I'm happy with the arrangement, and get it in use right away.
Looking forward to it all. ;D Good luck.
Glad you got back to the collective us, Brad. Yeah, a couple of 2 x 4's and a flat of ply would let you get a feel for usage vis a vis the relationship of top-of-the-radio to bottom-of the file. That zone could be the future desk carcass zone. If you can't see what's on the top shelf of the file , you can always use it for blank paper storage. :D :D