Good deal Wiam!
I won the bid on an 011 today. Hope it turns out OK.
Bought a Stihl 029 on ebay last weekend. Got it today. It was listed as a parts saw missing muffler and bar and chain. I got it for a parts saw because I needed handles for mine. Put my muffler on it and some gas and it sounds good. 8) 8) So I put my bar and chain on it and it cuts good too. ;D What a deal.
William
Good deal wiam! I've been looking around for a parts saw too, an 044. Haven't found one yet at the right price so I guess I'll keep looking.
That's kinda like the old joke of Jacking up the gas cap and running another car under it. :D
I guess parts is parts.......as that old chicken advertisement used to say. :D :D
wadja pay? i been trying to get a rear handle on the cheap for my 029.
now u can clean her up ,sell it on ebay as a runner and pocket the profit. but then whall u do for pts.. :)
Hi Red,
Somebody on eBay had about a dozen Stihl handles for sale. If you can't fine them let me know and I'll help you look.
Mark
im watching one now, i dont want to pay 100 bucks for a handle when i may be able to get a whole junk saw for that.
as of now im just lookin ;)
ill jump on one if it looks like i can get it cheap.
$120 plus shipping.
My problem is I still need a parts saw to get a handle for my first one.
William
Wiam, wait a coupla months and I'll probably drop a tree on mine, then we can deal. ;D
Red,
Check this out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2389008212&category=20538
William
How do guys like your 029. I have one, but lacks power, bogs out a lot under load.
too heavy, if a saws gunna weigh 15 pounds, it should cut like a 044. i have a 16 inch bar on mine, keeping the chain SHARP, it will still bog down.
its good to have on hand, but id be upset to have to use it every day.
Yah, what he said (Red). It is ok but I would not buy a new one.
William
I have a MS290 and I like it fine. It's a tad heavy, especially for all day use, but I haven't had any power issues, but then I'm not cutting particularly big wood, or very much hardwood either. I think it's a pretty good deal in terms of a firewood sort of machine, and I'm happy with mine because I'm a firewood cutter and deck demo man, so the 290 suits me.
I don't think my 290 would run a 20" bar very well, and Stihl is probably not doing anyone a favor claiming this saw can handle that kind of thing...
i wear a 20" bar on mrine for felling big uns, ifin my larger saws are dead. dosent cut too bad, bit underpowerd when taking out a notch. again, i like the 16" for a nice fit. an 18" bar balances the saw nicer.
QuoteI have one, but lacks power, bogs out a lot under load.
What are the depth gauge or rakers filed at?
Kevin, I was going to ask the same thing... my saw hasn't bogged down except when I cut a hinge a little too thin on the last tree of the day a few weeks ago, and then for some reason or another the saw just plain stopped and on top of that it seemed to be stuck in the cut too!! ;)
I fought with a couple of small balsm the other day.
I could have climbed them and taken the tops down or put a rope on them and pull them over but it was late in the day and I was tired so I tried taking the easy way out and just cut them.
The upper branches were caught in the strand and cable so I made sure I had a wedge before starting but the wedge wasn't enough and they didn't give up without a fight.
The "easy way" looks pretty good if you've already burned 4000 calories that day humpin lumber...
QuoteI fought with a couple of small balsm the other day.
I could have climbed them and taken the tops down or put a rope on them and pull them over but it was late in the day and I was tired so I tried taking the easy way out and just cut them.
The upper branches were caught in the strand and cable so I made sure I had a wedge before starting but the wedge wasn't enough and they didn't give up without a fight.
I recently had a similar experience with a maple (22" dbh) that had a side and back lean. The back lean was over a pretty good drop into a creek bottom. Well I got her wedged up to pretty close to 0 back lean and flat ran out of wedges. I tried making some wood ones, but just couldn't get her over and didn't want to leave her in that state while I went for more. I ended up letting her go to the side and she took out a 4" fir, but I didn't have to yard her out of the "valley so low".
i wedged a 24" ash over yesterday perpendicular to the wind, with the lean against it. i think there was an article in s+w about 'wisley using wedges',
well i gave it a try, plunging four inches or so behind the notch, all the way thru the tree, allmost all the way to the back. i wedged both sides to relieve the tension on the back. started the saw up again, i noticed the difficult part was cutting the back out of the felling cut, lining up both ends of the plunge cut. managed to get daylight all the way thru, replacing the saw with a wedge. i put it in on the leeward side and musta beat the top of the tree a good three feet away from the lean. so i doubled up on wedges away from the wind, and popped the one in the back a couple of times and she went over, ready to be yanked out with the magnum.
it took mabie ten minutes longer, just to see the tree fall without the saw runnin. but, i dont think i could have knocked her that way felling as i ususally do. it was interesting and ill try it again.
oh, i used my 029.
and, i got dibs on that chassis on ebay ;D
Red,
I would love to see that article, any idea which issue it was in? I don't get the magazine, but can find it. Always looking to learn more.
Thanks,
Rob
ill dig around and try to find it
Red;
Were you felling against the lean?
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/agaist%20the%20lay.JPG)
yep, and the wind was blowin from viewers angle(you, sittin at your desk blowing on the screen ;D
the lean wasnt quite that extreme as you show in your crayola drawing, but there was a lean, and a bit branch heavy.
I wouldn't have bored that tree.
I would have used the normal back cut backed up with wedges and advance the wedges with the cut in behind the bar.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/03_21_04/wedging.JPG)
kevin, do you think i got lucky?
could the hinge rip out as i was finishing the back cut?
my experience with ash, the hinge is very strong, sometimes pulling lenghts of hinge wood out of the stump a foot or more.
my last cut, there was no closing on the bar, and no opening either, seemed perfect.
it did scare me enough to trim 3 more escapes out of the brush, as this was my first attempt using this method. it went where i asked and i safely coaxed the top of the tree straight, then over. TIMBER! she was a bigun!
There was enough hinge wood to hold the tree because it did hold and it could have closed the felling cut without the wedges in place but other than that I don't think you were in any real danger but given another tree with bad wood inside or a weaker hinge it could change the outcome.
to no avail, i looked and looked.
ill try www.sawmillmag.com
mabie i read it in countryside, or mabie backwoods home. dont know, but i WILL find it
kevin, if there was bad wood, i wouldnt have done it that way.
just way too unpredictable. actually, if there was any bad wood at all i would have dropped it the direction God aimed it.
When a tree has bad wood it goes whichever way it goes when I cut it. I dont even try to save a tree with bad wood, I just let it fall wherever it falls and leave it at that.of course I do follow the successful tree felling with some bucking and stacking.
When you see bad wood inside the notch you should adjust the felling cut to compensate leaving a larger hinge, sometimes higher sometimes wider.
Many people work without the aid of wedges and it makes the job more difficult and dangerous.
The sapwood is generally good even when the heart is punky or gone altogether but you should never have to guess where the tree is going to fall.
well i spaced off and forgot to bid on the handle >:(
went for 51 bucks >:(
it sure was purdy, even said super :-/
Kevin
I checked the depth gauge for the 029 and their set at .025 in. and that is what the manual recomends. After using the saw again this weekend I think the major problem is chain lubrication. The saw never seem to use much oil but I don't think it's getting any. I ran the saw over clean snow and don't see any oil. I cleaned the bar, drained and cleaned oil tank, cleaned oil pickup filter, turned the oil adjustment screw to max (only turns about a quarter turn) I then ran the saw without the blade, a small amount of oil oozes out of the hole. If the oil pump is the next thing to check where is it located and how do you check it?
Thanks Tom
They don't use too much oil - bout 2/3 tank of oil for a tank of gas if you have it turned right up... but that's enough to spray oil under the bar on snow or a log or cardboard or a tailgate or whatever.
The Stihls are known for that.
I crank the oil up on my Huskies and it's one tank of oil to one tank of fuel.
I have no bar or chain wear on the links.
The bars plug up fast.
I always make it a habit to clean them after any heavy use.
The oil pump on the 029 is in behind the clutch.