Hi Folks;
New to the world of timber framing and I'm excited that this forum exists as there is an unbelievable amount of information and experience here.
I was wondering about the types of mallets used in timber framing. Specifically, is there a concensus on the most appropriate mallets to use or does it tend to be a matter of preference. So far I've seen wooden, leather wrapped and polyurethane styles. I'm starting my timber frame education with a wooden mallet.
Thanks,
Richard
Richard:
Welcome to the forum.
When I first started out I didn't have a good mallet. So I went to the tool store, I won't mention any names. And looked at the mallets they had there. They had these round headed mallet that were a type of plastic and they were called "carver's mallets".
They wanted $46 for the mallet. I thought that was a little to much for me.
So I made my own mallet.
I read in one of the many books I had be gathering the number of pounds that a mallet should be.
So I went out the the lumber yard and found a portion of an oak 4x4 and cut it to the size that would equal the weight suggested. You see you don't want one too heavy as you'll quickly get tired. And you don't want one too light as it won't do the job. I made several some of them different sizes. But the one I usually use the most is the bigger of the "chisel" mallets I made.
I cut the 4x4 block about 6" long. Then I took it to my bench top planer and planed all four sides, I may have jointed two sides first, I can't remember.
Then I put a round over bit in my bench top router table and rounded over the all the edges. All sides and both ends.
I bored a hole in it and put in a 5/8" dowel for a handle. I had some rubber hammer grips on hand and slide the grip over the dowel. It looked good:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/Commanders%20and%20Mallets-s.jpg)
You can see two mallets in this photo with the black rubber grips on them.
And one without any grips.
I went to a raising and brought the one without the grip, but at the time, it did have a grip on it. While I was working with the crew raising the frame, some old lady that I never did meet or see, took my mallet and started pounding in pegs in another assembly somewhere on the site. She broke the handle off the mallet head.
While I wasn't looking another timber framer took the mallet and put it between his feet and bored out the 5/8" dowel with a 1" drill bit in a huge power drill. He then took a 1" peg from the peg box and put it into the mallet head and made a new handle. It's been there ever since.
I glued it in when I got home and it has never broken again.
I still use this mallet on every project, including driving pegs, which was what I made it for.
I made a smaller one for using with the chisels but I found it to be too light.
If you don't have a round over bit or router you can just bevel the ends or edges with a block plane. Or you could ever cut them with a saw, 45° on a table saw I mean. Just enough so that the sides of the mallet don't split off when you use it.
If you make one, and you start using it and it's too heavy you can always make it a bit smaller.
I have seen rawhide mallets but I haven't ever used them.
I made my own "commanders" and I make them all different sizes. Some are for second story work on ladders so they are a bit smaller then the biggest ones.
Good luck with your research.
Jim Rogers
I am a big fan of these.
http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/split.html
With the rawhide the work well but you need to trim them down to about 1/8 above the steel so they don't mushroom out.
The pressed in ones are OK as well. What is nice about them is they have enough weight so you can "give it the thunder" when you hit knots or working oak. You may want a #3 for the tough stuff and a #2 for the end of the day when you arm is tired, but Jims homemade ones might work well controlling weight as well . Swapping down from a 2" chisel to a 1-1/2 or even 1" is another tactic for fatigue.
Dave
I like the 3# Garland. 8)
Thanks for the information! I think I'll try my hand the homemade route to begin with to get an idea of the weight I like. The other problem is in Calgary there aren't a lot of suppliers for timber framing tools.
I like the look of the Garland mallets. They look indestructible! Not a bad price either to be honest. I'll definitely see if I can find a supplier close to home.
One thing I was also wondering, is there a reduction in wear and tear on the chisel handles in using leather wrapped vs hardwood? I'm using Sorby framing chisels, the only ones available locally that seem suitable for TF. I'd like to make the handles last as long as I can since they aren't socket type.
Richard
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17998/mallet%7E0.jpg)
I take a piece of hardwoood, cut a groove around the outside with a saw and whack off the wood with and axe to make the handle. When it wears out, I cut me a new one. Gives me control over size, weight, etc. Cost = nothing. Time invested = about 3 minutes
Hi rbowie,
Looks like you have already gotten a lot of good advice from folks. I'll add a bit of historical context and tell you what I have used for over thirty years.
As you have already gleaned from the responses to your query, there isn't really a wrong answer. If what you swing drives what you are hitting, without hurting you or the tool, you are moving in the right direction. Now if you look at the craft of timber framing, (in a global context,) most timber frames are being built, (believe or not,) somewhere between the Middle East and Asian. So, with that as context, most chisels, gouges and their related cousins are being struck with "metal" hammers/mallets of some form.
A "framing ax" is probably the most common member of the hammer/mallet family being employed, (mainly in India and China.) I have used them quiet a few times. They are small 0.3 to 1.5 kilos (.5 to 3 pounds.) You can chop with them, and strike with either the "face" or the "head," both are used in about equal amount. Now in Japan, they do very special forging of some of the finest and most well thought out hammer/mallets you can find on the planet. Soft iron in the middle and tempered on the strike faces. One face is flat and the other is rounded for "killing wood." A note on wood mallets, (globally and historically,) they have been mainly used for assembling frames of furniture and structures, not hitting cutting tools.
I personally use a 750 gram (26 oz,) Japanese or "Trowel and Holden," 1.4 kilo (3lb) hand forged iron/steel mallet. They are both hand made and are over 100 years old. A lot of wood and stone have moved under them. I'm currently repairing their handles so I will post pictures soon. If you check in tomorrow, I will have posted a picture of my trusty stand by that will never have a broken handle. It is the type I teach with and gift to my student/apprentices when they are ready for their own tools. Nice part about mental, it can be used for either stone or wood.
Regards,
Jay
Jack Sobon says that the rawhide mallets won't damage a chisel handle like a wooden one will. I pound pretty hard on my chisels sometimes and I have had no deterioration. All of my chisels have a steel band on the top.
Quote from: Jay C. White Cloud on November 27, 2012, 08:09:30 PM
Nice part about mental, it can be used for either stone or wood.
I also use my mental powers to move logs, rocks, and other large objects with ease. ;)
Thanks Brian, you will be one of my editor/proof readers before I every think of publishing. ;) :D Thank goodness I can modify posts on this forum!!!
Hello Dave,
I know many that don't like or think metal is good to use on their tools. I can understand there reservations about doing so, still, considering the historical, and current usage of metal striking tools in use, (me included,) there point is only based in false sentiment, not empirical facts. I do understand it, and also would note that, unless you are conditioned to their use, you can become injured more easily using metal, particularly the heavy ones.
Regards,
Jay
I like the mallets Steve Chappell has made in central America. They are tropical hardwood. A thick handle helps prevent hand fatigue.
http://foxmaple.com/foxmaplestore.html (http://foxmaple.com/foxmaplestore.html)
Hi Brad_bb,
One of my students went down to Costa Rica with Steve and brought back a mallet, made of purple heart with a lead core in it. It was a fantastic mallet, and would move a 40 mm (1.5") chisel into pine a good 12 mm (1/2") with one whallop! :o "what a mallet!
This is one of my favorite mallets. It's made out of a tropical hardwood (almost 3#). I like the wide, contoured handle which is very comfortable to use.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26833/GEDC0387.JPG)
If I had the time, I would really like to make one of these "Mystery (Puzzle) Mallets":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3zRMIh2zHs
Nice Brian,
Some folks really like this historical and classic shape. They are also made in brass and steel as well, but if you have one like your's, it could last a life time, considering the density of tropical hardwoods.
Jay
In a pinch I made one for when im slabbing.
took a piece of boxelder about 6 in dia. Then I took a hatchet and corse chipped it into a round. Then like old boys did, used a hand drill and a clamp and bored a 1 1/4 hole. I made the handle the same way. I have yet to put in a wedge but works well .
Here are mine. Sorry for the poor pic quality.
The laminated mallet is red oak, black walnut, and maple. The handle is maple also.
The turned is all solid osage orange. I turned it over a year ago, so the handle "aged". I re-turned it to remove the damaged surface from use so now it changed color!!!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16985/Mallets.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16985/LamMallet%7E0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16985/TurnedMallet.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16985/TurnMalSize.JPG)
The one reminds me of a small baseball bat. Makes me wish I had a source for old broken baseball bats--I could probably turn them into nice mallets (and add some lead shot for weight, if needed). Too bad all the kids are using aluminum bats these days!
I knew someone that had a shortened aluminum bat filled with cement.
I dont think that was used for working with wood. ::)
Hey rbowie, if you need a chain mortiser, hillhurst hardware has a makita they have been wanting to sell for years. Talk to mike or phil. They have woodowl auger bits me and a buddy asked them to stock. you have to get the right ones though. There are two different kinds. Mike will know if you tell him its for timber framing. Magard ventures is online, in B.C., check them out I've bought from them, timber tools in ontario, leevalley has some stuff too.