I was looking at the Oregon file guide, the one that clamps to the bar and the file is mounted in it. It looks like a pretty good machine, has any of you used one of these or something similar? Wondering how well they work and are they easy to use or awkward ???
I have a 3120xp with 37" bar for milling and need a good chain sharpening method. Any feedback would be great.
It's gotta be better than the piece of garbage-looking thing Stihl sells for that purpose.
I've used that guide for years.It's a little slow but does a good job.
If you don't damage your chain it does a good job of sharpening.
If you nick your chains it can take quit a bit of effort.
Keep your file clean with a small steel brush.
Bailey's has an electric grinder on sale,but I prefer this guide.
I have used the oregon guide to sharpen milling chains works good. Also use it to correct the angle on reglar chain when they get off. Its a good tool for the price.
Guess I wont be buying the Stihl one!! :D That post brought the chuckles out of me.
I could imagine it would be good for consistent angles, I want to keep the chains in as best shape as possible so I figure I will probably get one. They can be used to file down the rakers as well cant they???
I don't know about that particular guide, but Stihl does sell a handy little tool that shows bevel angles and has a raker depth filing gauge, so they do exist.
I've had good luck with the Carlton File-o-Plate or whatever it's called. They're only a few bucks too.
Mark
I have used the clamp on guide. It works ok and can be used to file rakers. I stopped using mine when I went to work in the woods chopping full time. Gives you plenty of practice so you don't need a guide.
William
I use the roller guide and after many sharpenings I'll true up all the cutters on the grinder.
The roller guides work well.
I have the bar mount system as well but you can't take down the rakers with it, you have to use a flat file and another guide.
It's critical to get the bar mounted guide clamped on the bar properly in order to get the angles right.
If the guide isn't straight on the bar the angles will be off.
Filing chains is simply being accurate and repetitive (and being able to SEE when the tooth is right). Those guides are helpful in training your hand in the proper motion. It doesn't get trickier as you go along, it's simply repeating the same motion over and over and over and over until each tooth is equal and perfect.
Pick a guide that is easy to use, and you will be more willing to use it. Once you have mastered the motion, file without the guide. Compare your unguided work to a new chain or a chain filed with the guide. Soon you will be able to 'SEE' a perfect tooth and will not need the guide at all. I routinely fix chains for friends without using a guide except the guide burned into my brain. I just grab a file and make each tooth perfect and equal.
:)
I got the Sears Craftsman version. I find it resists the file stroke in either direction enough to bother me. That said I used it to modify a chain from cross cut to 0 degree rip yesterday. I hope I got the file depth deep enough to cut. :-/ Should end up with about 45 degrees on the top of the tooth. I had a little trouble remembering about the raker adjustment, but it turned out each number on the index was about .010". I use a triangular file, the 6" mill bestard is too wide, and contacts the cutter. It'll do you until you get a grinder. 8) 8) 8)
Hey anybody know why Stihl suggests you use a guide for most chains, but says in the manual that the RS chain "must" be sharpened with a guide? Is there something about the RS that is different than other chains? I can see if you get things screwed up how it would change things, but I don't understand why it would be any different on an RS than any other chain... they all gotta be done properly...
Sasquatch, you read too much into 'instructions'. Can't say as I have seen the wording you claim as I have not bothered reading 'sharpening instructions' off a chain package in many years. I can tell you that until 6 months ago I ran Stihl RS chain exclusively on my bigger saws and I have never used a file guide on it. It's about the best cutting chain out there but I found some other stuff which is about as good for half the cost.
If you can file without a guide, you don't need the guide. If you cannot file without the guide, then use the guide. The chain doesn't care if it's your hand or the guide holding the file steady. I think you are imagining that the guide does more than it actually does.
Well Rock you'll be glad to know I've risked it all and filed my RS by hand too :D - I tend to agree with you - either you can file or you can't (probably with or without a guide). I try to file really often, so the cutters aren't having a radical shape-change with a sharpening... what chain do you like as well as the RS? It probably won't affect me as there are Stihl dealers crawling like lice around here so in terms of handiness I can't see ordering off the net, and I dont' use enough chain to really worry in the first place, but I'm curious as to what brand you think rates with the RS.
IMO Carlton round chisel full comp chain comes in right next to stihl RS brand. second is probably Total brand chain. The very bottom of my list is Oregon chain.
WE had just got back from the Eugene Oregon loggers show and the husky chain saw demo guys had the newest chain guide for round filing we bought one for 5.00 bucks it better then anything I have seen for easiness and the correct way! I have little patients and this little tool works great! Not sure if they have it out there yet as they were new in the product line when we bought ours! I usually don't file much I love my silvey SDM4! But if you could get ahold of this tool you'll love it its really small about the size of a carlton file oplate
Preston
I bought the Oregon guide because it was the only one available locally. It works well if you follow the instructions carefully. It takes a while to do the chain properly. You can do it quickly if you like to cut curves. The file I have only works well in one direction. The raker adjustment is okay, but filing with a flat file and guide is better for consistent results. My main problem is getting the guide properly attached to the bar.
Because of the time it takes keeping chains sharp for several saws, I'm getting a grinder and will use that all of the time.
I have a number of file guides including the oregon file guide, but I've taken a liking to the roller guides as being the simplist and easiest to use with satisfaction.
I agree Ron.
They give you the proper depth and side plate hook every time.
All you really need to do is follow the witness mark.
Has anybody seen the filing guide item #15202 at baileys, on clearance for $4.95 , is this junk? I am currently filing with one of the oregon flat guides.
That looks like a good buy.
I would use something like that at home but I prefer the roller guide when working in the bush.
What type of chain do you use and how do you grind your chain for milling?
I always like to hear what other people find works for them.
QuoteI was looking at the Oregon file guide, the one that clamps to the bar and the file is mounted in it. It looks like a pretty good machine, has any of you used one of these or something similar? Wondering how well they work and are they easy to use or awkward ???
I have a 3120xp with 37" bar for milling and need a good chain sharpening method. Any feedback would be great.